What exterior caulk is the factory using now?

[Townesw]

Are they still using ASI 335?

 

This stuff works well for removing old caulk 

[jd1923]

I want to remove ALL the old messy silicone caulk OTT had applied at the factory and prior owners adding to it. I just spent 15 minutes searching for their 0240 product. I found a company to buy a case. Anybody know where to buy 1-2 cans?

Edited March 28 by jd1923

[SeaDawg]

We've been using a loctite marine product, with good results,  for a number of years.

[ScubaRx]

3 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I want to remove ALL the old messy silicone caulk OTT had applied at the factory and prior owners adding to it. I just spent 15 minutes searching for their 0240 product. I found a company to buy a case. Anybody know where to buy 1-2 cans?

https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=20596&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=(ROI) PMax Shopping - Low/No AOV&utm_id=18030280001&utm_content=&utm_term=&gad_source=4

 

https://www.chemical-concepts.com/product/american-sealants-0240-cleaner-remover-14-oz-net-weight-can/?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cse&srsltid=AfmBOop8hPEz53xgukj9M1jJ5fHGXYcHM-KH_hwxWI5aSBtTGkVdMxnFYds

(states on back order)

 

[Geronimo John]

On 3/27/2024 at 9:03 PM, ScubaRx said:

On 3/27/2024 at 5:15 PM, jd1923 said:

I want to remove ALL the old messy silicone caulk OTT had applied at the factory and prior owners adding to it. I just spent 15 minutes searching for their 0240 product. I found a company to buy a case. Anybody know where to buy 1-2 cans?

https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=20596&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=(ROI) PMax Shopping - Low/No AOV&utm_id=18030280001&utm_content=&utm_term=&gad_source=4

https://www.chemical-concepts.com/product/american-sealants-0240-cleaner-remover-14-oz-net-weight-can/?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cse&srsltid=AfmBOop8hPEz53xgukj9M1jJ5fHGXYcHM-KH_hwxWI5aSBtTGkVdMxnFYds

Never tried to remove silicone....yet.  So newbee question from an RoF:  Will much less costly Goof Off adhesive remover work vs. the above $20/$30 per can options?

 

BJ

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[DavePhelps]

Scuba Rx, that ASI 0240 sounds pretty good. Especially interesting it can be used as a tooling lubricant. I will try that.

What I have been using with great success is Debond, and it is even more expensive! So I think it's going to cost you Geronimo John!

Debond

The big problem with silicone from a refinishing point of view are the oils it contains. You can clean it off with solvents and plastic razors to where the gelcoat looks pristine, but when you spray the surface with water, it still beads up all over. This is caused by the silicone oils having penetrated the pores of the gelcoat. Not completely removing these oils will interfere with the full bonding of any sealant you want to use, including silicone! You have to break out some 1000 grit automotive sandpaper and wet sand it out with the solvent of your choice (in my case, Debond). When it's all gone, I hit it with some finer grit (1200-1500), then a good polishing cleaner. The gelcoat will then look great, and be ready to be sealed, and most importantly, the sealant will adhere to the gelcoat! All this work is why I never use silicones to begin with, except in some rare instances. Also, if you do any finishing in your shop, be extremely careful to keep any rags, pads, sandpaper, or anything that was used cleaning your silicone problem separate and away from your regular shop supplies. Silicone contamination in your shop can be a total disaster for the finisher. Good luck!

Dave

[Geronimo John]

Thanks Dave!

Eventually I will be needing to get-er-done and having this info will be very helpful.  I have just enshrined your pearls of wisdom and the product names in my OE2 "Keeper" document.

GJ

[Dave and Kimberly]

   I didn't see an answer to the question of what is the sealant to use on our Olivers?   I just inspected the various sealant places on the roof of our Ollie while washing and waxing after we got home.   It doesn't look like it needs it yet but I want to be prepared.   I have noted and recorded the above recommendations for both the cleaner and sealant.  

   Which brings me to my next point.   When we picked up our Oliver in May of 2022... we noticed a poor bead of seal around the rear window and asked them to touch it up.  They did, but what they used (there in the pre-delivery bay) dried very yellow and to this day, stands out like a sore thumb on our pristine white Oliver.   It is completely different than what was used when building the Oliver.   Then a couple of months later we had a service ticket for the bathroom window to be replaced and I agreed to let them send me the parts and materials to replace it.   I did so... but evidently got the same "yellow" sealant!

    When time and UV rays do their damage.... I want to be sure to have a replacement sealant that is "bright white"!    For those that have done this, what was your experience?   

[Going Coastal]

We had the same issue with our rear window caulk being a yellow color.   I re-caulked all our exterior windows last fall, removing the caulk with a plastic razor blade and replacing with ASI 335.   I don't know where I found this information, whether it was somewhere here on the forum, or in a discussion with Oliver directly, but there is a black butyl sealant they use on the windows that will react with the caulk and turn it a yellow color.    I have actually done our back window twice, and each time, it stays white or just not as yellow as before.   This is only on our back window, haven't seen it anywhere else!

[Townesw]

I asked service what was being used and the response was ASI 335.

[Patriot]

12 minutes ago, Townesw said:

I asked service what was being used and the response was ASI 335.

Thanks @Townesw

I just saw this and I keep a tube of ASI 335 handy especially while traveling. 👍🏻

[rich.dev]

HERE'S a nice list of Marine quality sealants. I like Sikaflex products, have used 221 on our Airstream with good results. Has anybody used some of these on their Ollie?  

Edited April 3 by rich.dev

[Jim and Frances]

We plan to move to Geocel GC28100 Pro Flex RV Flexible Sealant when the original silicone needs replacing.  Our rear window is getting close.

@DavePhelps outlined the one-time challenge of getting rid of the silicone residue prior to going non-silicone. 

For those going with silicone-on-silicone to avoid the nasty prep work, be careful of the chemical basis of the silicone being used as it apparently needs to match the original.   I found an interesting  article on silicone-to-silicone bonding here.  Way above my chemistry paygrade!

 

[jd1923]

On 4/1/2024 at 4:42 PM, DavePhelps said:

... All this work is why I never use silicones to begin with, except in some rare instances...

Dave, thank you for this! I have learned a lot from you in several of your recent posts. I did not realize silicone oils would permeate the surface, no wonder if feels like you can neve get it completely off.

I have a simple rule, don't caulk anything. PERIOD!
I've never caulked the exterior of a house or RV, and I'm not a sailor. One exception, my "rare instance" would be to use GE White Silicone in our bathrooms at home, once when a new sink or toilet is installed, or along a tub.

Use a proper gasket, dum-dum (butyl tape) or something to seal the window, the door, the faucet or whatever. When you caulk, the smallest bead possible is all that's required. It should be in the crack, not 1/2" either side of the crack.

If I can get back the 100s of hours I've spent, in removing the lazy caulk other POs and installers have added, we could take a long camping trip just to break even.

There was a mention of rear windows. Here is ours after a trip, where the AZ road dust shows it well. When our hull went back to OTT service twice, both service tickets listed re-caulking. I wish they just caulked it once when built. I will remove all this and not replace it. I know many of you will warn that I need caulk, or it should be serviced regularly, but not me, not our hull. There will still be enough hidden in the crack after I remove everything visible.

[Geronimo John]

3 hours ago, Going Coastal said:

  I don't know where I found this information,

This topic having a very high probability of my needing to find the answer resulted in my saving the post in my Ollie KEEPER document.  Cut and pasted below:

 

OLLIE CAULKS AND SEALANTS:    JEssary   Oliver Staff  4 MARCH 2022  (EDTS BY GJ)

The Oliver service department utilizes ASI 335 white & clear silicone, Red Devil butyl sealant, butyl tape, and Dicor self-leveling sealant to re-caulk/reseal the exterior of your camper.  .  Due to Oliver’s double fiberglass hull construction, any leaking water is trapped between the hulls until the water can find an escape point.  Those points are typically a window cutout or one of the weep holes in the lower outer shell.  Windows being a primary entry point often leads to an initial diagnosis that the window is leaking which is not necessarily the case.  During the yearly maintenance, use Acetone for cleanup, and seal the exterior with ASI 335 silicone.  Once the silicone is cured, bolts and screws located on the roof then have an additional application of self-leveling sealant to provide an additional layer of protection, again, these areas aren’t typically “seen” surfaces.  The additional layer also helps protect the silicone from sun exposure as well as sealing the head of screws and/or bolts.  Re-caulk any gaps found.  Carefully check roof penetrations and the marker lights.  

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

57 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

I have a simple rule, don't caulk anything. PERIOD!   .    get a gasket

Sadly my skills with a caulk gun are legendary..... BAD.  I to love gaskets as a result.

Wow you hit the nail on the head with that one.  I have been told that the 2018 marker lights don't streak because the black supplier gasket was eliminated and they were caulked.  My 2018 trailer has the supplier gaskets and the black streaks continue to this day.  About a month after pick up of our hull 342, I reported the black streaks and suggested OTT get a better gasket.  The response was caulking.  Hopefully one day we'll have a gasket for these exterior lights because if I caulk it, it would be a visual disaster.   

[DavePhelps]

1 hour ago, rich.dev said:

HERE'S a nice list of Marine quality sealants. I like Sikaflex products, have used 221 on our Airstream with good results. Has anybody used some of these on their Ollie?  

I've been using SIKAFLEX 291 on my Ollie. It has a very good reputation in the marine world. I have experienced no yellowing or mildewing in the years I have used it.

The world of sealants is a tough one. There is a lot of chemistry involved that is far beyond my knowledge for sure. Everyone is going to have their favorite based on their use and experience. Not sure why Oliver went to silicone, I'm sure they had their reasons. Although the ASI 335 seems to be a very good product, inevitable future resealing efforts may be compromised unless a very thorough cleaning protocol is adhered to. Not sure what is happening with the yellowing issues some folks are having. It could be quite a few things, part of the mysterious chemical peculiarities of sealants.  THIS article may shed some light on that. Since the ASI 335 is neutral cure, it may be susceptible to yellowing from chemical vapor contamination from the butyl tape (or whatever Oliver is using now) around their windows. Don't know how widespread this issue is, or if this is indeed the issue at all. It's just part of the puzzle. The thing about sealants, and all materials really, is that they are part of an ecosystem where everyone has to get along or bad things happen. One needs to consider how multiple materials will interact with each other, both in the short and long term, for good work to be done.

Dave

 

[DavePhelps]

1 hour ago, jd1923 said:

Use a proper gasket, dum-dum (butyl tape) or something to seal the window, the door, the faucet or whatever. When you caulk, the smallest bead possible is all that's required. It should be in the crack, not 1/2" either side of the crack.

If I can get back the 100s of hours I've spent, in removing the lazy caulk other POs and installers have added, we could take a long camping trip just to break even.

Man I hear you! And that is a pretty gnarly sealant job on your rear window!😖

I pretty much have to tape everything off on each side of the joint (sometimes, just one side is necessary). It takes time, but gives me the best result. I'll wet tool the sealant before removing the tape. Then a final very light tooling (my finger usually) to take the tape/sealant edge off after tape is removed. It's important not to get too much sealant in the joint or you'll have a mess removing the tape and too thick an edge for the final tooling.  The thinner tapes leave less of an edge to deal with. I'm still trying different things to get the clean look I want. I bought some silicone finishing tools I want to try next time I get in to it.

Dave

[jd1923]

3 hours ago, DavePhelps said:

Man I hear you! And that is a pretty gnarly sealant job on your rear window!😖

I pretty much have to tape everything off on each side of the joint (sometimes, just one side is necessary). It takes time, but gives me the best result. I'll wet tool the sealant before removing the tape. Then a final very light tooling (my finger usually) to take the tape/sealant edge off after tape is removed. It's important not to get too much sealant in the joint or you'll have a mess removing the tape and too thick an edge for the final tooling.  The thinner tapes leave less of an edge to deal with. I'm still trying different things to get the clean look I want. I bought some silicone finishing tools I want to try next time I get into it.

Dave

I spent a couple hours taping both sides of every seem on a shower floor we did a couple years ago. I'll put myself with @Geronimo John as I fall short on anything that needs the artist touch. Using the blue painters' tape, it came out pretty nice. I can fix anything automotive mechanical, though tried bodywork once in the late 70s, and never again. The one thing I will contract on the Oliver is anything fiberglass gelcoat work. After our next outing, I need to clean off all that "gnarly" crude on every exterior seam.

Readers here would likely be interested in your choice of "silicone finishing tools." Thanks again.

[SeaDawg]

10 hours ago, rich.dev said:

Sikaflex products, have used 221 on our Airstream with good results. Has anybody used some of these on their Ollie?  

I used a number of sika products, building our house.

I don't think I'd try 221 on an Oliver, as I "think" it's greatest use is metal to metal.

I'm sure sika has an appropriate product in their lineup. It's a great company.  291 would probably work, but it's an adhesive/sealant, possibly close to 3m 4200. Requires extensive mechanical removal. Polyurethane , elastic. So good for movement.  But, replacement,  if and when necessary,  could be a lot of work.

We went with a polyether product,  loctite marine fast cure, several years ago, for boats and the Ollie. So far, so good. I think we're 4 years in. Stays white. Decent flex. If you buy from Lowe's or Depot, make sure you read the date code. And, use it all up. It doesn't last long. Not cheap, either, but longevity vs initial price is important to us. The Loctite bonds to everything in our usual realm... teak, aluminum, fiberglass, plastic, etc., as it's polyether based.

Whatever you choose, I'd choose something that says "marine" or "for use above and below waterline". I know we don't drive our Ollies on the water, but some of the gulley washers we've experienced make me appreciate marine sealant quality.

We use synthetic butyl tape as bedding, whenever possible. Old school, tried and true, eternally flexible. Windows, fans, boat ports, etc. Rooftop appertanences take a beating in Florida sun. After a few days of allowing butyl to set up, we (I should say,usually Paul) trim the edge with a fine bead of loctite, to block uv. Maybe unnecessary,  but, it looks good, especially when Paul does it,instead of me. I'm not bad, but he's better. (Give credit where due, right?)

Butyl is ONLY a sealant, not an adhesive, so requires mechanical fasteners to keep everything in place. 

As far as removing silicon residue, I'm not your person. I don't think it has a place in the fiberglass world. We don't use silicon. It seeps into the pores, and is very difficult to remove.

Sika makes many fine products.  If you find one appropriate for the Ollie (fiberglass, plastic, and metal compatible, decent elasticity/flex, uv resistant), I'd love to hear about it. They're not inexpensive,  either, but we've had great experience with some of their products in our home.

 

Edited April 4 by SeaDawg

[rideandfly]

10 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

We went with a polyether product,  loctite marine fast cure, several years ago, for boats and the Ollie. So far, so good. I think we're 4 years in. Stays white. Decent flex. If you buy from Lowe's or Depot, make sure you read the date code. And, use it all up. It doesn't last long. Not cheap, either, but longevity vs initial price is important to us. The Loctite bonds to everything in our usual realm... teak, aluminum, fiberglass, plastic, etc., as it's polyether based.

Is this the Loctite product you're using?

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/build/sealants/loctite_pl_marinefastcureadhesivesealant.html

Going to try ASI 0240 for caulk removal, too.

I'm like some others here and have much to be desired in the artistic application skills. But with Ollie, learning daily. 🙂

Like always, appreciate the knowledge folks share here. Really appreciated the information shared on fiberglass surface preparation for belly band installation, too.

 

[Geronimo John]

22 hours ago, DavePhelps said:

"The thing about sealants, and all materials really, is that they are part of an ecosystem where everyone has to get along or bad things happen. One needs to consider how multiple materials will interact with each other, both in the short and long term, for good work to be done."

Dave:

Your quote is amazing.  It certainly can apply to many other situations as well.  Even our forum. 

GJ

[Dave and Kimberly]

   My rear window was sealed by the same guy that did JD1923!    In retrospect... it's possible that something along the lines of the "chemical incompatibility" mentioned by a few of you took place.   The instructions Oliver Service gave me was to use this "black rope like" caulk around the inner flange of the bathroom window during the installation.   Then they sent a tube of silicone sealant to finish off on the outside (I should have taken note of what it was, but I'll assume it was the ASI-335).   It turned yellow as it dried.   There was no mention about waiting for one to cure before using the other... and the "white" sealant never actually touched the black caulk they sent... but there could have been some off gassing that created some coloring of the outside sealant.

    Wow... that ASI-335 and the ASI 0240 cleaner is expensive!

[SeaDawg]

  19 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

We went with a polyether product,  loctite marine fast cure, several years ago, for boats and the Ollie. So far, so good. I think we're 4 years in. Stays white. Decent flex. If you buy from Lowe's or Depot, make sure you read the date code. And, use it all up. It doesn't last long. Not cheap, either, but longevity vs initial price is important to us. The Loctite bonds to everything in our usual realm... teak, aluminum, fiberglass, plastic, etc., as it's polyether based.

Is this the Loctite product you're using?

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/build/sealants/loctite_pl_marinefastcureadhesivesealant.html

Yes, it is. 

 

[rideandfly]

4 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:

  19 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

We went with a polyether product,  loctite marine fast cure, several years ago, for boats and the Ollie. So far, so good. I think we're 4 years in. Stays white. Decent flex. If you buy from Lowe's or Depot, make sure you read the date code. And, use it all up. It doesn't last long. Not cheap, either, but longevity vs initial price is important to us. The Loctite bonds to everything in our usual realm... teak, aluminum, fiberglass, plastic, etc., as it's polyether based.

Is this the Loctite product you're using?

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/build/sealants/loctite_pl_marinefastcureadhesivesealant.html

Yes, it is. 

 

Thanks!

[SeaDawg]

Make sure you read the date code.