Requesting Assistance with a Lighting Electrical Problem

[JDB_Traveler]

This is the first time I am posting and seeking assistance. I have an 2022 Oliver Elite II (Hull #1069) and we are currently on the road with our Olli.  Yesterday when I went to turn on a reading light it would not illuminate. I then checked the master light panel and noticed that there was no power (Blue Light) to the Porch, Outside Courtesy and Cabin lights.  That was confirmed by not being able to illuminate the reading lights, overhead touch lights, bathroom lights and outside lights.  I did verify that the Lights Main (10A) and Cabin Lights (5A) fuses were good.  Unfortunately, I don't have a volt meter with me to verify if power is going to different locations.  One other thing, during the night all the lights I mentioned that are not working came on two different times by themselves and then went out again.  We just started a 2-week road trip and was wondering if there is anything I can do to remedy the situation.  Not having the lights are not a show stopper but rather an inconvenience.

[mossemi]

Now would be a good time to invest in a multimeter or at the very least, a test light.  My 2017 LE2 has an access port in the upper cabinet above the microwave which provides access to the back of the main lighting switch panel.  It's a good place to check for a loose wire.  Also check the upper and lower negative buss bars for a loose connection.

Mossey

[JDB_Traveler]

Thanks for the response and recommendations, I will check them both.

[SeaDawg]

If your fridge is working on gas, and your fans work, you don't have a total 12v problem.

The touch lights are notorious for issues, but not the others.

If you have 12v to other circuits, you most likely have loose connections, somewhere in the lighting circuits, as Mossemi suggested.  

Good luck, and keep us posted.

 

 

[Geronimo John]

Knowing your model (OE or OE2) and hull number would likely be of use to those trying to assist.

In time you can add such info to your profile and tag line automatically at the bottom of all your posts.  

But for first timers you get a pass for sure.  🙂

Gj

[Steph and Dud B]

Have you tried toggling the master light switch on/off a few times? We've had fiberglass dust get into those switches and cause intermittent problems. If that is the problem, spraying canned air into the switch and applying a shop vac to the switch while exercising it have worked for us. 

[Rolind]

I agree with Steph and Dud B. We also have had intermittent trouble with fiberglass dust. Usually it resolves with cycling the switch a few times.  When it happens to the master switch various lights will or won’t turn on intermittently.  A good cleaning with canned air also helps

 

Edited June 22 by Rolind

[JDB_Traveler]

I greatly appreciate everyones help and will try all suggestions.  For the record, the second sentence in my post stated I had a 2022 Oliver Elite II Hull #1069.

[mossemi]

@JDB_Traveler

Any update on the lighting problem you are experiencing?

Mossey

[Ronbrink]

On 6/21/2024 at 5:26 PM, JDB_Traveler said:

I did verify that the Lights Main (10A) and Cabin Lights (5A) fuses were good. 

If you haven’t resolved the issue, check the backside of the fuse box where individual wiring is connected via spade connectors. I recently lost power to the fridge and found the connector leading to its’ respective fuse loose. Not the best pic, but shows the wire bundle to look for; the red wire on the top goes to the fridge, which will require a new female spade connector to remedy.

Edited June 25 by Ronbrink

[JDB_Traveler]

I verified all yellow wires along the strip under the rear dinette seat and all wires going to the fuse panel as tight and secure.  I also verified the integrity of all wires behind the Master Lights Switch Panel.  Finally, I looked behind both rear cabinet wall panels and nothing jumped out as out of place or loose.  Attached is a picture of my master lights switch panel and the three switches without power align with the lights I don't currently have.  The only thing remaining I can think of is to verify if I have power going to the fuses and switches, don't currently have a multimeter (I know lesson learned, never travel without one).  I am open to any other suggestions or ideas. 

[jd1923]

58 minutes ago, JDB_Traveler said:

Attached is a picture of my master lights switch panel and the three switches without power align with the lights I don't currently have. 

So your Porch,  Outside Courtesy and Closet (the ones without a lighted LED) do not work, and all the others do? Your first post listed more lights out.

Those 3 have proximity to the doorway area. They must share a power source or ground separate from the others. Our older hull has no LEDs so in a way you have built-in test lights.

I'm not a service ticket guy, but I would in your case. Send OTT this picture and explain exactly which lights do not work. Anybody who wires these for OTT should determine cause in a minute. Its likely not at the panel but at the 12V feed or a specific ground. 

[jd1923]

Something else just dawned on me…

The three lights out, are likely the same three you do not have switches on the remote panel, right of the kitchen. These are two-way switches and the others are all 3-way. This is another indicator of cause. 

[jd1923]

There is a simple one wire fix to your lighting issue!

[JDB_Traveler]

The lights from those three switches do not work along with reading lights, overhead tap curtesy lights, and bathroom lights, those don't have a switch but I am assuming their power is controlled by those switches.

Can you more clearly explain the two way and three way switch comment? What do you mean by this being another indicator of cause?

I have been seeking help from Oliver with little to no success. I have requested help in understanding the wiring layout and they have been very hesitant to say anything because of liability concerns despite me telling them I would sign away liability.  If I have to seek Oliver trained technical expertise I have to drive 6.5 hours to Salem, OR.  I am really trying to avoid the drive.  I am also struggling to understand how the people that build these trailers can't solve this. I agree that this is probably a 1-wire issue.  I greatly appreciate the help and would welcome any other advice and suggestions.

[Rivernerd]

16 hours ago, JDB_Traveler said:

don't currently have a multimeter (I know lesson learned, never travel without one). 

When you buy a multimeter, get one with a clamp, like this one:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/600-Amp-Digital-Clamp-Meter-DC-AC-Multimeter-True-RMS-Auto-Ranging-4000-Max-Reading-NCV-Measurement-LED-Backlight-QXBFZDKCWAC60TQ7CV0/325788161

The clamp enables testing of individual wires without having to touch bare wire (which sometimes requires disconnecting one end of it).  You can isolate a wire, place the clamp around it, and determine whether it has power running through it.  Really helpful for troubleshooting issues like the one you are trying to solve.

[topgun2]

JDB - 

I understand your frustration - its simply no fun trying to chase down what is most likely a "simple" issue.  However, electrical problems are very difficult to pinpoint via phone and/or internet.  Basically the procedure is a process of elimination and tracing the most likely flows of current and this is difficult to do without the proper equipment.

Do you know of a local electrician that you trust (or even a friend that knows a bit about electricity)?  Or, a local RV tech that you trust?  Either of these should be able to get to the bottom of the issue reasonably quickly, have the tools needed to test for grounds and/or continuity, and that would save you a long drive.

As jd1923 points out, your issue is most likely with the grounds that these three circuits share.  And, my bet is that the location is at or near those three switches on your Master Panel.

As far as liability is concerned - if you are not plugged into shore power, there is not much in or near these switches that can "kill" you.  Yes, a bite on your flesh and/or the flash of a short will get you attention and it is a tough learning lesson that can be avoided with knowledge and proper equipment.

Stick with it - you'll get to the bottom of the problem.

Bill

[Rivernerd]

4 minutes ago, topgun2 said:

As far as liability is concerned - if you are not plugged into shore power, there is not much in or near these switches that can "kill" you. 

The lights and their related switches in our trailers are 12V, with low amperage.  Any "bite" from that 12V system should be barely noticeable.

[jd1923]

3 hours ago, JDB_Traveler said:

Can you more clearly explain the two way and three way switch comment? What do you mean by this being another indicator of cause?

The two-way switches are where you have one switch one light. Three-way switches allow turning the light ON/OFF from two different switch locations, like from the main light panel you pictured and a secondary light panel (like one over the curbside bed or under the pantry).

3 hours ago, JDB_Traveler said:

I have been seeking help from Oliver with little to no success. I have requested help in understanding the wiring layout

Asking re the wiring layout is hypothetical. If you are not able to test circuits for voltage and ground connections for continuity, nothing that can be worked over the phone. An electrician has been suggested or even a local mobile mechanic that is good with auto electrical 12VDC can help.

Edited June 28 by jd1923

[JDB_Traveler]

Again, thanks for all the info and suggestions.  I completely agree that nothing more can be done until I have the right tools which I will have access to starting on 7/2.  Each on the road experience is a good learning opportunity, this one will allow me to add the right tools to my pack-up.  I appreciate everyones patience with a newcomer. I will keep you updated and let you know what the problem was and how it was corrected so if anyone else experiences it in the future they will have something to reach back to.  

[John Dorrer]

On 6/25/2024 at 7:32 AM, Ronbrink said:

If you haven’t resolved the issue, check the backside of the fuse box where individual wiring is connected via spade connectors. I recently lost power to the fridge and found the connector leading to its’ respective fuse loose. Not the best pic, but shows the wire bundle to look for; the red wire on the top goes to the fridge, which will require a new female spade connector to remedy.

+2. We got to the Rally and had no television. We also have a 2022 E2 and went under the rear dinette seat to check the backside of the fuse panel and found wire had pulled loose. Suspect it was major bump on I-24 near Nashville on the way to Guntersville. Plugged it back in and all was good.

[JDB_Traveler]

Good news, I just solved the electrical mystery about 1-hour ago.  It turns out that one of the electrical connectors going to the master light switch had fractured and when I pulled on the wire the female end remained connected to the switch.  I replaced the connector, reattached the wire and all lights are now functioning.  I am so glade it was not a problem with a wire in the wall.  Thanks to all who provided thoughts and recommendations. I am sure it is not the last challenge I will face given the Ollie basically experiences a 4 or 5 on the Richter scale each time it gets towed. Also, I have added a multimeter to my Ollie tool box.  The forum is a great place to go to learn and find support.

[Shawna and Scott]

That is great news and as most expected it was a simple fix once it was found. 

Thanks for posting the resolution as I am sure it will help someone down the road - folks like myself.