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Posted

The manual crank post of my rear stabilizer jack is too high and comes in contact with the interior fiberglass cover under the curbside bed.  It's causing damage to the underside (see photos). 

Anyone else have this problem?  Is there a way to adjust the positon of the jack down to stop contact?

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2020 Elite II #627, 2021 Silverado 1500 3.0L Duramax, Colorado

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Posted (edited)

I would suggest as above, to check the tightness of the 4 bolts. Also, try looking at the unit while someone else is operating the jack.

If no change, try calling OTT for further advice.

Edited by dewdev
  • Like 1

2018 Oliver Elite II, Twin Bed, Hull #354 

2024 RAM 1500, 4 x 4; Gas. 5.7L V8 Hemi MDS VVT Torque; 3.21 rear axle ratio w/TIMBREN spring rear suspension addition

Maine 

 

Posted

Haven't heard of that.

Here's a page showing how to "service" the rear jack that may help.

In it there is  mention of 3 allen set screws that hold the power head on the jack .

Maybe those have backed off an the head has popped up?

CS

 

2019 Elite II (Hull 505 - Galway Girl - August 7, 2019 Delivery) 
Tow Vehicle: 2021 F350 King Ranch, FX4, MaxTow Package, 10 Speed, 3.55 Rear Axle
Batteries Upgrade: Dual 315GTX Lithionics Lithiums - 630AH Total
Inverter/Charger: Xantrex 2000Pro 

Travel BLOG:  https://4-ever-hitched.com

 

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Posted (edited)

Dan, it's good you noticed this before it got worse. Check out my picture. The two carriage bolts, shiny round heads faced up, go straight down through the frame. Get under your Oliver just behind the wheel well and tighten the two large nuts. If there is a  split-ring washer that has lost its spring, replace it. If not use some blue Locktite (not red). Then check the other side as well.

Edit: If you find the main jack mounting bolts are tight which is highly possible, then the head of the jack has slipped up off the post. In this case, remove the head (2-3 Allen screws), check the post for vertical markings from it slipping to be certain of cause. Then remount head. Age of your hull, having it out would be a good time to do thorough maintenance. I'm the only one that has worked the complete service and if you will do so, let me know and I will supply the link.

In the meantime, do not use your stabilizer jacks.

Stabilizer Jack Left Rear.jpg

Edited by jd1923
See section marked EDIT above
  • Like 5

Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

Posted

Thanks for your suggestions. As  @jd1923 suggested, I checked the mounting bolts under the trailer and they looked tight visualy with lock-washers fully compressed.  I put a wrench on them anyway and was able to tighten both bolts (on both sides) by about a quarter turn.  This did not seem to change anything.  IMG_1662.thumb.JPEG.0753501a65c83fec3568608a0203cc15.JPEGIMG_1661.thumb.JPEG.bfc4ffe7595ea90e6f313771d88af89c.JPEGIMG_1660.thumb.JPEG.236ab50ee97a79872eda42f7c68972ce.JPEGIMG_1659.thumb.JPEG.aae512d1ffdedde59b960ae3c87b5e57.JPEG

Before pulling anyting apart, I started to measure differences between my curbside (too high) and my streetside (just fine) stabilizer jacks.  I've attached the photos and I'm stumped. The curbside jack seems to be somehow mounted about an inch higher than the streetside jack. 

The inside photos are measuring to the mounting bracket.  The outside photo shows that the cylinder for the shaft is an inch lower on one side.  

Is there some adjustment that I am not seeing?  I believe that the curbside stabilizer jack was always touching the fiberglass lid but I never thought much of it.  It seems to be doing damage to the lid now.  Both jacks operate just fine as always.

I am going to open a ticket with Oliver, but does anybody have a suggestion.....?

2020 Elite II #627, 2021 Silverado 1500 3.0L Duramax, Colorado

Posted

That is strange.  Time to submit a ticket on this one.  

GJ

  • Like 2

TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, 10 Speed Trans, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps. Front Wardrobe Shelves, Snuggle Shelf.   TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

  

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Posted (edited)
On 4/22/2025 at 6:01 AM, tallmandan said:

Anyone else have this problem?  Is there a way to adjust the positon of the jack down to stop contact?

This is a bummer Dan. I see a few issues. In your very first picture there is a grease stain on top of the jack. In your last picture, the jack head looks somewhat cock-eyed to the post assembly and even more so to the fiberglass opening above. Neither picture looks normal, as I know for a fact that the tops of both of my rear jacks are bone dry/clean shiny paint and they are level, square to the cover that sits above them. 

I measured both of mine and they are left-to-right side identical within 1/16". They both measure 3 and 9/16" from the fixed post section to the bottom of the aluminum mount, where yours measures 4" on the good side and about 3" on the other. Your hull, 4 years newer, could have a different measurement but of course both sides should be equal.

My feeling is the weld of the mounting plate to the post assembly has failed. Not sure, but these mounts were likely fabricated and welded by OTT, as they do not look like off-the-shelf jacks like our standard front jack. 

Given the age of your hull, likely it would no longer be under warranty. You could remove the bad side, simple enough by removing the two nuts you tried tightening earlier and pulling the jack out from above. When it's out, you'd quickly see whether a weld has failed (please post picture when you do).

If so, then choices would be to get it welded locally and service the head <OR> enter a Service Ticket with OTT. If they did fab the mount and weld it, they may replace it for you or in lieu of a local repair, OTT could supply the replacement part. Again, don't use it until corrected as it would soon cause much more damage than the rub on your basement cover. I could be wrong but this is my best guess from looking at your pictures and measurements. You've taken all the right steps.

Edited by jd1923

Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

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