Alcan Springs Quote for Jan-2026

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, theOrca said:

If you really think about that, it can easily be due to the pinching of the spring ends to the shackles and the shackles to the easy flex arms.

I agree. I went with lower torque numbers. Instead of the Alcan recommended 65 ft-lb on the EZ Flex and 80 on the ends, I went 55/65. Of course the U-bolts must be 90 as specified.

The Alcan shackles and wet-bolts are not the quality of their leaf springs. I believe they cut the shackles and likely outsource the bolts.

Ken’s @mountainoliver shackles have already bent some, bolt holes buggered. He made new shackles in his machine shop, drilled tighter fitting holes.

If I were to do this again, I’d certainly buy the Alcan 5-leaf pack springs, but buy a full new HD EZ Flex kit, including shackles and wet-bolts. I had to get new  EZ Flex centers anyway which should be replaced if more than a few years old (the center bushings will wear off angle due to the design).

[mountainoliver]

Yes, I had one shackle that had both bolts rotating freely. I only have a few thousand miles on the new spring set but the holes were still wallowed out some. The original plates have punched holes so they are naturally just sloppy clearance holes perfect for bolts or rivets but not so good if a press fit or close accurate fit is required. The original grease fittings were straight so I couldn’t tell that they were rotating until I replaced all of the fittings with 45 deg fittings. One of the side plates was very worn so I made a new one with close fitting 9/16 holes which allowed for a fairly hard press fit for the straight knurled bolts. The 60 ft/lb torque suggested by Alcan in my opinion is way too high being that the bolts are not shoulder bolts. I basically just snugged them up at 30 ft/lb and will probably leave them there. I too had the shoulder bolt vs straight bolt conversation with the Alcan folks while I was in Grand Junction. Contrary to what some folks have been told……I was told to make sure to hold the bolt head stationary with a backup wrench while tightening the shackle nuts and not to allow the bolts to rotate. Anyway? Whatever….

The first photo is of the original worn side plates. The second is of the finished parts installed and the last photo is of me making 1/2 inch thick plates out of 5/8 thick stock. At some point I will probably make all new plates maybe with recessed bronze thrust washers. 🤔

Edited April 29 by mountainoliver
Change wording

[John Dorrer]

1 hour ago, jd1923 said:

I agree. I went with lower torque numbers. Instead of the Alcan recommended 65 ft-lb on the EZ Flex and 80 on the ends, I went 55/65. Of course the U-bolts must be 90 as specified.

The Alcan shackles and wet-bolts are not the quality of their leaf springs. I believe they cut the shackles and likely outsource the bolts.

Ken’s @mountainoliver shackles have already bent some, bolt holes buggered. He made new shackles in his machine shop, drilled tighter fitting holes.

If I were to do this again, I’d certainly buy the Alcan 5-leaf pack springs, but buy a full new HD EZ Flex kit, including shackles and wet-bolts. I had to get new  EZ Flex centers anyway which should be replaced if more than a few years old (the center bushings will wear off angle due to the design).

I ordered and received all heavy duty shackles, bolts, and U-bolts with my order from Alcan, per David Austin.

[CRM]

2 hours ago, mountainoliver said:

Yes, I had one shackle that had both bolts rotating freely. I only have a few thousand miles on the new spring set but the holes were still wallowed out some. The original plates have punched holes so they are naturally just sloppy clearance holes perfect for bolts or rivets but not so good if a press fit or close accurate fit is required.

Well, after seeing this, the first thing I'm going to do is weld two strips of 1/8 steel to each side of the hole to hold the bolt from spinning once installed. 

[mountainoliver]

43 minutes ago, CRM said:

Well, after seeing this, the first thing I'm going to do is weld two strips of 1/8 steel to each side of the hole to hold the bolt from spinning once installed. 

I thought about that as well but non of my bolts had the flats lined up exactly. I don’t think that when the cross holes are drilled they are in any particular position. I don’t remember who but someone on the forums had a supplier of rings with a 12 point pattern on the inside diameter that looked similar to a boxed end wrench. These rings would be placed over a bolt and welded all around. This would hold the bolt securely in place. 

[Hokieman]

1 hour ago, mountainoliver said:

I don’t remember who but someone on the forums had a supplier of rings with a 12 point pattern on the inside diameter that looked similar to a boxed end wrench.

That would be Geronimo John.   See this thread for “Hex Head Capture Washer”. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3665-dexter-axle-loose-bolt-at-the-equalizer/page/2/

[Geronimo John]

DIY - Dexter EZ-Flex Center Bolt Spline Repair (20 APR 2024).docx

6 hours ago, mountainoliver said:

I was told to make sure to hold the bolt head stationary with a backup wrench while tightening the shackle nuts and not to allow the bolts to rotate. Anyway? Whatever….

Yes for splined bolts you MUST do so.  

3 hours ago, mountainoliver said:

I don’t remember who but someone on the forums had a supplier of rings with a 12 point pattern on the inside diameter that looked similar to a boxed end wrench. These rings would be placed over a bolt and welded all around. This would hold the bolt securely in place. 

Yes, that "someone" was me.  Here is my DIY to fix it.  Hex Bolt Capture Washers.  

Only alternative solution would be to replace the tangs and that is much more invasive than the capture washers.   

GJ

[Geronimo John]

Had problems with trying to include my DIY attachment.  Trying again.

GJDIY - Dexter EZ-Flex Center Bolt Spline Repair (20 APR 2024).docx

[Ronbrink]

18 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

I am "critical" on the trailer height where I store my Ollie.  As it worked out it was no problem.

The height of my new shop door is exactly 10’ and with a little gain by the Atmos 4.4 a/c there is clearance, but not much. Gonna have to get up there and take an exact measurement before a spring upgrade. Thanks for your response!

[CRM]

16 hours ago, mountainoliver said:

I thought about that as well but non of my bolts had the flats lined up exactly. I don’t think that when the cross holes are drilled they are in any particular position. I don’t remember who but someone on the forums had a supplier of rings with a 12 point pattern on the inside diameter that looked similar to a boxed end wrench. These rings would be placed over a bolt and welded all around. This would hold the bolt securely in place. 

They are 6 point, will they work with the cross holes being drilled erratically or will 12 point be needed to get things lined up correctly? 

[Geronimo John]

2 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

The height of my new shop door is exactly 10’

Roger, I have a very simular issue but harder.  If the approach is level, carefully checking clearance is easy.    Mine had a foot tall "ramp" that would kick the rear of our Ollie up about 5" as I backed into the lean-to enclosed area.  I removed the gavel floor took out a couple inches of dirt and re-graveled.   Still no go.  

Then I hauled back all that dirt, and a bunch more, and made an elevated area  20' long and 10' wide "Table" in front of the barn door. So I back Ollie up onto the "Table" and then it was an easy back into the "Ollie Cave".

Hope yours is a level entry.

GJ

[Geronimo John]

PS SWEET BARN!  And Ollie too of course!

GJ

[jd1923]

18 hours ago, CRM said:

Well, after seeing this, the first thing I'm going to do is weld two strips of 1/8 steel to each side of the hole to hold the bolt from spinning once installed. 

This is all you need. Figured out where you want the wet bolt opening. Weld a little 1/8” x 1:4” x 1” tab perpendicular to the shackle to the inside of the bolt head. Install the bolt in position and only the nut only should spin when torquing.

I’ll turn mine some while greasing, prior to torquing maintenance. Mine are all still clean and straight. My thought is Ken’s got that way from less torque. They would not bend if held square.

As often as I’m doing regular maintenance, I’m not going to worry. If they look bad years later, I’ll buy a new MOR-Ryde HD shackle set and replace them. 😎

https://shopmorryde.com/products/heavy-duty-shackle-kit

Edited April 30 by jd1923

[Ronbrink]

42 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

Hope yours is a level entry.

Yes, other than a slight recess at the bottom of the door to prevent water intrusion. 

[Ronbrink]

1 hour ago, Geronimo John said:

PS SWEET BARN!  And Ollie too of course!

The wife refers to it as the “man barn” for my “man toys”!

Edited April 30 by Ronbrink

[Geronimo John]

On 4/29/2026 at 1:21 PM, CRM said:

Well, after seeing this, the first thing I'm going to do is weld two strips of 1/8 steel to each side of the hole to hold the bolt from spinning once installed. 

You are on the right track in attacking the bolt head end.  Certainly the approach in your above quote will work.  But the Hex Nut Capture Washer would look and perform better.  And they are dirt cheap.  See my DIY.

DIY - Dexter EZ-Flex Center Bolt Spline Repair (20 APR 2024).docx

 

Edited Friday at 04:35 PM by Geronimo John

[aaronorange]

On 4/28/2026 at 11:19 PM, theOrca said:

After I posted the above i went out and dug out the Dexter parts and the Alcan parts. (My axles are not in yet, so I have all parts waiting on Dexter.) I continue to be a believer in the Alcan springs, but now have my doubts about their shackles and shackle bolts. The Dexter bolts are designed to be torqued to their shoulder. That will allow full rotation and flex of the EZ Flex and Spring ends which go to the Shackle. The Alcan bolts put full clamping force on the EZ Flex and the spring end of the shackles. I cannot see how that is a good idea. It resists rotation and flex...   Comments 

Edited Sunday at 01:54 PM by aaronorange

[mountainoliver]

5 hours ago, aaronorange said:

I cannot see how that is a good idea. It resists rotation and flex...   Comments 

I agree! For example, as we continued our trip after installation, I needed to make a slight level adjustment at a campsite, so lifted one side of the trailer using the onboard rear jack. With just very little lift the tires were off the ground. The shackle bolts were so tight that the whole suspension was extremely stiff. I may be wrong and the expert may disagree but I think the shackle bolts should just be snugged up to prevent excessive play. The nylock nuts will prevent any loosening of the shackle bolts. The U bolts, however should be torqued to specifications. You may have to replace the shackle side plates if the bolts are a sloppy fit. You definitely don’t want the bolts to rotate on their own. Anyway, just my opinion. 

[jd1923]

On 5/3/2026 at 12:15 PM, mountainoliver said:

The shackle bolts were so tight that the whole suspension was extremely stiff. I may be wrong and the expert may disagree but I think the shackle bolts should just be snugged up to prevent excessive play. The nylock nuts will prevent any loosening of the shackle bolts. The U bolts, however should be torqued to specifications.

Just retorqued the suspension after towing 3600 miles over the last 6 months on the new D52 axles with Alcan 5-pack leaf springs. On the right side (I'll work the left side tomorrow), the U-bolts did not need tightening at 90 ft-lb (they're set, last time I'll touch these). The three main leaf (3) bolts, the EZ Flex center bolt and the two end bolts did not need tightening either (torqued to 70 ft-lb). The wet-bolt on one shackle would not take grease, so I loosened it to apply grease. All four (4) shackle-connected wet-bolts needed a bit of tightening (torqued to 58 ft-lb). All shackles and other parts looked in like-new condition. Not real concerned with rotating wet-bolts as you could see they were all fixed into a set position even though needing torque. Just loosen the nut and rotate the bolt if one is not taking grease. Torque wet-bolts after greasing. I'm going to start a maintenance thread for the Alcan/D52 Nev-R Lube setup.

Edited 10 hours ago by jd1923

[DanielBoondock]

2 hours ago, jd1923 said:

The wet-bolt on one shackle would not take grease, so I loosened it to apply grease. All four (4) shackle-connected wet-bolts needed a bit of tightening (torqued to 58 ft-lb). All shackles and other parts looked in like-new condition. Not real concerned with rotating wet-bolts as you could see they were all fixed into a set position even though needing torque. Just loosen the nut and rotate the bolt if one is not taking grease. Torque wet-bolts after greasing. I'm going to start a maintenance thread for the Alcan/D52 Nev-R Lube setup.

Please do!!!

My suspension was silent when I got it. Now it’s creaky. I just did the 3k lube right on schedule but still creaky. There’s a couple that won’t take lube, wondering what to do

Ok so loosen nut, rotate bolt, grease and then tighten to 58