Remove the rain seal on the awning?

[Mike and Carol]

33 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

I'm assuming mine was removed by previous owner, replaced with a nice drip edge. Can somebody confirm who knows the OEM "rain seal?"

That’s not OEM.  That looks like what most of us have used to go around our windows.  The original seal is bigger and a different shape.  Mike

[ScubaRx]

6 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I'm assuming mine was removed by previous owner, replaced with a nice drip edge. Can somebody confirm who knows the OEM "rain seal?"

Now that, I could buy into.

[ScottyGS]

18 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I'm assuming mine was removed by previous owner, replaced with a nice drip edge. Can somebody confirm who knows the OEM "rain seal?"

 

That would be Trim-Lok Drip Rail.  Great for around the windows.  Looks like it could be great on the awning application as well.  Link is:  https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Drip-Rail-White-Height/dp/B01CJRH19Y?th=1

Scotty

[rich.dev]

1 hour ago, ScottyGS said:

That would be Trim-Lok Drip Rail.  Great for around the windows.  Looks like it could be great on the awning application as well.  Link is:  https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Drip-Rail-White-Height/dp/B01CJRH19Y?th=1

I have the trim lok drip rail above the windows and Oliver sign on rear of trailer, very satisfied with it. The Trim Lok is 1/2” deep/wide, I discovered this 3/4” deep/wide drip rail that should work great for below the awning.

[ScottyGS]

3 hours ago, rich.dev said:

I have the trim lok drip rail above the windows and Oliver sign on rear of trailer, very satisfied with it. The Trim Lok is 1/2” deep/wide, I discovered this 3/4” deep/wide drip rail that should work great for below the awning.

you could do TWO Olivers with that.....   Nice... 

[rich.dev]

26 minutes ago, ScottyGS said:

you could do TWO Olivers with that.....   Nice...

Yup unfortunately only available in 40’ from what I could find, so that’s what I ordered 40’! 

[routlaw]

@jd1923 good job. I like the way you installed this well below the awning attachments. The original was nestled just below and touching those brackets which in turn creates a huge debris mess almost impossible to clean out. As pliable as this trim piece seems to be just curious if you considered with turning those end corners downward slightly to facilitate the flow of water out? 

[rich.dev]

On 10/9/2024 at 6:01 PM, jd1923 said:

I'm assuming mine was removed by previous owner, replaced with a nice drip edge. Can somebody confirm who knows the OEM "rain seal?"

John, I threw my OEM rain seal out yeterday, sorry didn't look at a part number. Will be doing same as you with 3/4" wide J drip rail next week.  

[jd1923]

23 hours ago, rich.dev said:

Yup unfortunately only available in 40’ from what I could find, so that’s what I ordered 40’! 

Run it down both sides, and then you likely don’t need them over the individual windows. It certainly is a nice installation @routlaw, though not to my credit on this one, was a past owner.

Our Oliver has been sitting outside for the last  5 months in the weather. Sun & wind and so many monsoon rains. So the backside, without a drip guard, has many dark dirty rain drip lines, but not on the entrance side.

They’re very hard to clean off, so I did a half-a$$’d attempt as not look like the total ghetto Oliver at the upcoming Texas Rally! (Ours is pretty inside and in maintenance and mods)! 🤣

Soon, I’ll buy more for the other side, so thanks y’all for the links. 

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, rich.dev said:

John, I threw my OEM rain seal out yeterday, sorry didn't look at a part number.

Thanks Rich, not to worry.

[SeaDawg]

Living where you do, @jd1923, you probably don't need either the oem seal nor what appears to be trimlock molding. 

In rainy east, we like ours. 

[ScottyGS]

Trim Lok does make some good products.  I replaced the original trim of the propane cover with their "edge trim".  

 

[Zodd]

Thanks for the picture. I was just washing and cleaning ours to put away for the winter , and had the same thought while trying to clean that area out. Very hard to clean and not just a gutter trapping everything you don't want. On the list for an enhancement someday. 

[Jason Foster]

On 10/11/2024 at 6:42 PM, jd1923 said:

many dark dirty rain drip lines, but not on the entrance side.

They’re very hard to clean off, so I did a half-a$$’d attempt as not look like the total ghetto Oliver at the upcoming Texas Rally!

I hate these things.  Takes a lot of elbow grease to remove them.  I'm sure there is a product out there that will make it easier for $ but I'm a bit cheap.

[johnwen]

On 10/16/2024 at 10:16 PM, ScottyGS said:

Trim Lok does make some good products.  I replaced the original trim of the propane cover with their "edge trim".  

 

How do you like the Trim Lok seal?  Our original seal is starting to look a little raggedy.

John.

[ScottyGS]

10 hours ago, johnwen said:

How do you like the Trim Lok seal?  Our original seal is starting to look a little raggedy.

John.

It works fine.  Been on for years.  Our original seal around the edge of the propane cover departed this earth after only a year or so.  (2016 LE2)  It was a pretty flimsy plastic strip.  The only problem now might be finding it in white.  I did an Amazon search and there are some white edge seals (non trim lok) but only black from Trim Lok.   You could measure the thickness and find one that you think will work and if it doesn't look good when it arrives send it back.  Amazon is pretty good that way.  Good Luck 

Scotty 

[Galileo]

I see most of the posts here are by owners with older units. Hopefully our newer seal isn’t ready to crumble to dust or fall apart when try to deal with it.

Our 2022 LEII has a “Girard” awning that has a filler strip between the awning housing and the shell of the camper. It appears to be adhered to the shell. Dunno if it’s also glued to the awning housing. For the most part, it still looks to be in good shape. Except - right over the refrigerator vents. Here it leaks and makes the lovely brown streaks down the side of the camper body.

I thoroughly cleaned the roof last season, and though it did have a fair amount of crud up there - and was difficult to flush out because of the brackets - it did come pretty clean. We do have the luxury of keeping our Oliver stored indoors while we’re not using it. 
 

Anyway, the plan is to remove the strip - at least partially - clean off the shell and strip - and re-attach it to the shell. 

The questions are - what adhesive to use that will be fairly tough - but not damage the gelcoat, and …. I forgot. Though if I’ll have to remove the awning is up for grabs. 
 

We really don’t use the awning that much for various reasons, so perhaps removing the strip as others have done is still the best idea. I suppose that would eliminate the need for cleaning out collected crud.

 

[rich.dev]

On 2/13/2025 at 1:46 PM, Galileo said:

Our 2022 LEII has a “Girard” awning that has a filler strip between the awning housing and the shell of the camper. It appears to be adhered to the shell. Dunno if it’s also glued to the awning housing. For the most part, it still looks to be in good shape. Except - right over the refrigerator vents. Here it leaks and makes the lovely brown streaks down the side of the camper body.

 

@Galileo Per my previous post, we have a 2023 and I removed the awning seal and installed THIS 3/4” drip rail that works very well. Only issue is the drip rail comes wrapped in a coil and having it straightened up was a mission, almost impossible. Even after I managed to get the drip rail somewhat straightened out and stuck to the side (below awning) of the RV, the front top edge of the "J" is still warped, even now 4 months later. That said, it’s just aesthetics and I still like it much better than the stock seal, all it did was catching junk and it was hard to clean behind it. 

 

Edited February 15 by rich.dev

[Rolind]

Something that I have found helpful, is to clean out the accumulated debris under each bracket that acts as a damn holding the water between brackets. Once water is free to flow under the brackets, the ponding, stagnating and browning of the water with tannins is less of a problem.
Also, we have the Truma air conditioner, and have found that unless the trailer is leveled just right, the condensate from the AC drains onto the roof instead of through the condensate drain and adds to the ponding of water. 

[Galileo]

On 2/13/2025 at 8:00 PM, Rolind said:

Also, we have the Truma air conditioner, and have found that unless the trailer is leveled just right, the condensate from the AC drains onto the roof instead of through the condensate drain and adds to the ponding of water. 

Hmmm - I thought the Truma A/C didn’t use the condensate drains that the Donetic A/C uses… or, I could have confused that with somebody else’s retrofit.

[Galileo]

On 2/13/2025 at 8:00 PM, Rolind said:

 

Something that I have found helpful, is to clean out the accumulated debris under each bracket that acts as a damn holding the water between brackets. Once water is free to flow under the brackets, the ponding, stagnating and browning of the water with tannins is less of a problem.

 

Good practice obviously! I’ve cleaned ours out previously. (When I was up there replacing the bolts holding the Dometic A/C fan bolts that vibrated out…) Right now, there’s no accumulated debris at all. But yes, getting the logjam out from under the brackets can be a chore if you camp anywhere around trees that like to shed bits and pieces. It took quite a bit of shooting streams of water from either side of the bracket before it was all flushed away. I think next time I’ll do it with the trailer well OUT of level to get some help from gravity!

With the trailer level, a certain about of water seems to want to collect even when there’s no debris present. Likely due to minor deviations from the initial straight/level installation of that gap filler. 

[Galileo]

This looks to be the stuff that Oliver used originally on my LEII. I’d go with it again, but figure the adhesive (in my case) is what failed. So I might be better off finding an automotive trim adhesive strip to replace the failed adhesive on my existing strip. (Seems a lot of the Amazon reviewers are unimpressed with the adhesive…)

https://a.co/d/50QJH86

Edited February 15 by Galileo

[topgun2]

2 hours ago, Galileo said:

This looks to be the stuff that Oliver used originally on my LEII.

Sure does look like the same stuff that is on mine too.

If/when you replace it, be sure to clean, clean, clean the surface of the Oliver before going any further.  Also, a nice low humidity, and warm to hot day when you can hold the new gasket in place for at least 24 hours would be advisable.

Good luck!

Bill

[Rolind]

9 hours ago, Galileo said:

Hmmm - I thought the Truma A/C didn’t use the condensate drains that the Donetic A/C uses… or, I could have confused that with somebody else’s retrofit.

We have Oliver factory installed Truma and it does have a street side and curbside condensate drain. I think I remember that if the Truma is a retrofit install, the Truma doesn’t use the existing condensate drains.

[SeaDawg]

I will interject that we love the awning seal. We have replaced it once..

I guess it depends in how  you store and canp