Electrical Diagrams

[Landrover]

53 minutes ago, bhncb said:

So OTT is just another manufacturer producing evolving products with an electrical system that a "skilled trade" can't understand? The only challenge with the earlier model diagrams is seeing through the errors.

How about just admitting not wanting to commit the resources required to maintain accurate wiring diagrams. That's even more believable.

A bunch of BS in my opinion the 2019 electrical diagrams are some of the best and most understandable diagrams I’ve ever come across for a travel travel.  I better print a set out before they delete them.😳

[Rivernerd]

During my 35 years of law practice I did mostly litigation, including defense of product liability claims.  IMHO, any "fear of liability" defense to providing owners with electrical diagrams is baseless.  If an injury occurs and a product liability claim is filed, any available wiring diagrams must be produced through the formal discovery process.  Since they can't be hidden during litigation, refusing to provide them to owners makes no sense.

If Oliver management is monitoring this forum, I invite them to reconsider their position, and to resume providing wiring diagrams to owners.  Surely Oliver has something their production and quality control employees follow when doing the wiring, to ensure it is done correctly.  As a future owner taking delivery next year, I'd like to have one included in the owner's manuals with my 2022.  It doubtless would prevent some warranty service tickets and calls, and so would reduce Oliver's service department costs.

Given Oliver's commitment to the exemplary customer service so frequently described on this forum, it seems strange to refuse to provide wiring diagrams to owners, at least upon request.

Oliver, your response?

 

[SeaDawg]

@Rivernerd please send an email to your rep. Oliver rarely monitors this forum. 

The forum is owners to owners. Not a factory space. Thank you.

[topgun2]

12 hours ago, Rivernerd said:

If Oliver management is monitoring this forum

As has been pointed out before, Oliver management does not routinely monitor this Forum.  There are a couple of individuals who do look at it but I think that the word "monitor" is too strong.  I do not believe that this lack of monitoring is by design or purposeful, but, it is due to the fact that virtually all of these people wear a bunch of hats and are simply too busy with all these hats to spend copious amounts of time here.  For instance - the person that is responsible for keeping things running smoothly here is also responsible for doing that exact same thing for every department throughout all of the Oliver companies.  In addition there is the job of investigating and implementing new soft (and hard) ware.  He has also been involved in video production, photo shoots and marketing material design (brochures to t-shirts), etc.

SeaDawg's advice is absolutely correct.

Bill

[Jairon]

I was looking for a simple way to use my rear storage compartment (the one that opens from the outside) to keep my Starlink router out of the elements / simplify setup and teardown. Running a new AC outlet from the main panel to the trunk is a straight shot but I wanted to review the electrical diagram before potentially ruining something. I contacted support for an electrical diagram and they still don't have one. They mentioned a third party was responsible for the design and this former employee/contractor is unable to provide it to them. They made it sound like Oliver doesn't even have an internal diagram. They did say ones coming off the line today will come with a diagram.

For anyone that wants AC in the trunk and has a Xantrex XC inverter installed, I found this part: Xantrex 808-9817 which allows a GFCI outlet to be installed in the back of the unit. It was a nightmare to install but it works after you get the tiny screws back in... It ground faults without the screws and it seems to cut power to the outlet if the panel isn't flush with the unit (safety switch?). The installation requires the removal of the entire inverter or laying on your stomach and reaching deep under the seat to do a blind one handed installation. I opted for the blind install.

Amazon link to part: https://smile.amazon.com/Xantrex-Freedom-808-9817-Electrical-Equipment/dp/B0756FZFZJ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=LV42YTTEUUIQ&keywords=gfci+outlet+xantrex&qid=1654812380&sprefix=gfci+outlet+xantrex%2Caps%2C90&sr=8-1

[John E Davies]

1 hour ago, Jairon said:

they still don't have one. They mentioned a third party was responsible for the design and this former employee/contractor is unable to provide it to them. They made it sound like Oliver doesn't even have an internal diagram. 

😅😂🤣 Was that a joke do you suppose? Maybe this explains why the wire color codes do not match industry standards….  A company that builds RVs has no critical diagrams anywhere in the premises? If it is actually true, my opinion of OTC just dropped a great big notch. How are they supposed to provide customer support?

Thanks for the update.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Jairon]

23 minutes ago, John E Davies said:

Was that a joke do you suppose? Maybe this explains why the wire color codes do not match industry standards….  A company that builds RVs has no critical diagrams anywhere in the premises? If it is actually true, my opinion of OTC just dropped a great big notch. How are they supposed to provide customer support?

I suspect they asked for help with their lithium design and have about 3 different configurations based on some trial and error. I know my Lithionics setup is different from the LifeBlue setup. Both of those options were available for a bit due to supply shortages. Still, you'd think they would have wanted that stuff documented for the future. I was pretty bummed to find out but it is what it is. They also ramped up production quite a bit during that time. Still, no excuse.

On a more positive note, we've had no issues with the trailer other than a busted window shade bracket and the silver trim losing adhesion in the rear. I can live with that.

[Sak]

1 hour ago, Jairon said:

I was looking for a simple way to use my rear storage compartment (the one that opens from the outside) to keep my Starlink router out of the elements / simplify setup and teardown.

My plan to is to splice the Starlink cord and re-purpose one of those TV/Sat inlet and install RJ45 inlet there, reroute the cable up into the attic and keep the router there. There is an AC outlet in there already. The hard part for me is to drill a bigger hole to fit the waterproof RJ45 inside the Furrion inlet cover.

For the dish, my tentative plan is to find a way to mount the Starlink's short wall mount to one of those awning support bracket toward the back of the trailer. At that location, I think it's easy for me to reach and mount the dish up there by climbing on the rear bumper, if I can get a clear view of the sky. If not, I will put the dishy on the ground and stake the legs. Alternatively, lots of people seem to be okay mounting theirs on flag pole but personally I would avoid that if possible.

[Jairon]

22 minutes ago, sak said:

My plan to is to splice the Starlink cord and re-purpose one of those TV/Sat inlet and install RJ45 inlet there, reroute the cable up into the attic and keep the router there.

That was my plan initially until I got lazy. I'm guessing you've seen this but here it is anyway! https://gist.github.com/darconeous/8c7899c4d2f849b881d6c43be55066ee Let us know how it goes, even if you get lazy 

The cat5e cable fits nicely between the rear gasket of the trunk should you decide to change course. You can still lock it.

[John E Davies]

10 hours ago, sak said:

 The hard part for me is to drill a bigger hole to fit the waterproof RJ45 inside the Furrion inlet cover.

What is hard, the idea of punching holes in your Ollie or finding the right tool? If the latter, the Harbor Freight large step drill (up to 1 3/8”) works brilliantly with fiberglass, and adequately with aluminum, though it tends to clog in that material, and you should use a smaller one to get the hole started.

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-96275.html

Love those Cable Clams!

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Sak]

5 hours ago, John E Davies said:

What is hard, the idea of punching holes in your Ollie or finding the right tool?

It's the idea of punching holes. I have never done this before for fiberglass. I am sure it will get better. Thanks for the link John!

[John E Davies]

Be sure to drill the pilot hole for threaded screws the correct size, it should be a little larger than the minor diameter of the sheet metal screw (the diameter of the part that is not cut for threads). If the screw does not drive in easily, the hole is too small and you need to go up one or two drill sizes and then retry. If the hole is too small you can snap off the smaller sized screws, and that will make you swear, or else it can strip the heads of any sized ones. 

And you should always make a decent sized countersink around the fresh  screw hole to prevent the gelcoat from cracking and chipping. See that pic I posted above your last comment.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Sak]

On 6/9/2022 at 5:50 PM, Jairon said:

Let us know how it goes, even if you get lazy 

I finally did this over the weekend. I posted some pictures here.

[CnC]

On 3/17/2021 at 8:50 PM, Ray and Susan Huff said:

I wonder if the reason they don't is that the wiring changes throughout the model year.

I think it is the reason it's not in the book, but frankly an addendium should be provided to the owner specific for their Hull.

Charlie. 

[Geronimo John]

On 5/18/2021 at 12:25 AM, NCeagle said:

I might not be as adamant about this topic if Oliver had at least ... bothered to label any wires

Labeling would be the gift of a lifetime for DYI owners.  Liability?  No it would be a liability defense for OTT. 

After all if I had known what that big red 1" diameter wire was, I would not have licked it to see if it was energized.......