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So 5 days in and my solar setup isn’t working.  The system isn’t turning on and using solar panels to charge up batteries.   I have been working with Oliver service and checked connections on zamp controller the battery cutoff switch for solar and ensured battery cut off is on.  Nothing is working to get led power or charging indicators to work.   It is also pulling in no amps per readout.   Looks like I will be headed to a service center. I can’t express how disappointed that is with 70k camper that is 5 days old.   I don’t think they fully tested the system.  Any other ideas?
 

I have also noticed that apparently a child installed graphics as with time I have noticed lots of bubbles.  Also no one has even called to see how things are going and my salesman never bothered to stop by on pickup day to sAy thank you.   Overall a bit disappointed with Oliver  customer service experience.  
 

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2021 Legacy Elite II Hull #807 - 2021 F150 w/ 3.5L EB and max tow package 

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It sounds like a failed controller. That isn’t common, but it could happen. It may have been working fine at delivery.  I would not get too upset, let Oliver work with you and an RV tech, ask them if they will pay for a mobile one so you don’t have to go to a dealer. It is much less stressful to have the tech come to you.

Do you have a digital voltmeter and the skill to do some simple testing? It is easy enough to see if there is power coming in from the roof, and you can electrically check the wiring from there to the batteries. It will only take a couple of minutes. If all that checks out, including the fuses, then the controller is bad. The wiring is actually VERY simple for these units. This is a generic one, not for your hull:

73BE5F31-B844-4DE4-A80B-F90AF9901D34.jpeg.dacdaf6f4d43ea1701a1e4b112bfac52.jpeg

John Davies

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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As for the bubbles - over time the sun and heat will get most - mine did anyways.

The other - JD covered it - if you have voltage feeding the controller and it stops there - bad connections or bad unit. One is Oliver's bad, the other - Zamp. 

I'd call but you don't want me.....

I am beginning to believe a "pre-owned" unit is the cats meow. Time tested and heat/cold cycled.....

I look forward to your satisfaction on the situation.

RB

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Cindy,  Russell and  "Harley dog" . Home is our little farm near Winchester TN

2018 Oliver Legacy Elite II - 2018 GMC 2500 Duramax 

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You didn't mention it, but can we assume that the solar was working when you picked it up? If yes, then can we further assume that it worked during their recommended shake down stay near the factory?

Oliver does not run a multi-day testing of the solar systems they install. They are taken out of the factory and placed in the sun. If the charger comes on and is putting current into the battery, then the solar is deemed "fully tested" and good to go. I really don't know what else I'd expect them to do.

John asked if you had a voltmeter and the skills to test the output of the panels. It's not hard and would probably save you a lot of headaches if you do.

In my case, when something brand new doesn't work like I think it should, it's usually operator error on my part.

If all the connections are good and power is getting to the controller with no joy, then I agree that it is probably a bad controller. Easy fix, pull the old one out, install a new one and go camping.

As far and the vinyl graphics are concerned, there is virtually no way to install them without getting some small bubbles of air trapped underneath. A few days in the sun and they will most likely all disappear. If some remain stick them with a needle and express the air out, just like popping a zit.

I'm sorry you're having some problems and frustrations, I can promise you that Oliver will fix them to your complete satisfaction.

Best of luck...

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Steve, Tali and the dogs: Reacher, Lucy and Rocky plus our beloved Storm and Maggie (both waiting at the Rainbow Bridge) 2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0026 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0050 2017 Silverado High Country 2500HD Diesel 4x4 

 

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Appreciate the responses. I don’t have a voltmeter unfortunately.   If controller is bad I already pulled that out once to check connections and yes that seems like pretty easy to swap out for a new one.  
 

I honestly can’t remember if lights were working in orientation. I think power indicator was on because she said this charging one won’t come on because we are inside.   I didn’t really even think about it at DC until just before  left which was a Sunday.  Service is really important to me so I will keep working with Oliver to get this sorted.  
 

Getting plenty of good sun to work on bubbles, never knew that. Hotter in Indiana then Texas, weird.  I do really like the trailer. The inside design is better than I expected and size was just what I was after.   It tows great.  I had driven motorhomes but never towed so was pretty nervous that.  A long day of driving Sunday fixed that. I have been very impressed with towing behavior.  

In another newbie mistake I had accidentally changed display mode on tireminder to temp vs psi.  When I left yesterday morning tires look good as air temp very close to my psi setting.  Going through Indy and I am getting very concerned as it appears psi is getting close to 90 and the previous day they never did that.  Panic was starting when I looked at saw temp vs psi on display.   Changed display and all good. 
 

 

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2021 Legacy Elite II Hull #807 - 2021 F150 w/ 3.5L EB and max tow package 

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Ignore the bubbles in your graphics.  They will go away.  I installed my front graphic as carefully as I could and still had a bunch of bubbles.  They are all gone now.  It’s the same if you get your car windows tinted, there will be some bubbles, but they go away.  Mike

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Texas Hill Country | Elite II #135 | Ram 2500 6.7L

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TexasGuy,  Don't feel like the Lone Ranger with your solar problem.  I believe I am having the exact same problem as you.  I came out to the trailer this morning and my batteries were dead.  I had turned off the master switch last night; what gives?

Could it be a bad batch of controllers?

 

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"R-Villa" ~ Hull #803 Legacy Elite II  Twin Beds / 2021 GMC Denali HD, 6.6 L Duramax Turbo-Diesel, 10-speed AllisonILINKYMNOHTNWImed.jpg

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33 minutes ago, IL_Travelers said:

TexasGuy,  Don't feel like the Lone Ranger with your solar problem.  I believe I am having the exact same problem as you.  I came out to the trailer this morning and my batteries were dead.  I had turned off the master switch last night; what gives?

Could it be a bad batch of controllers?

 

Thanks IL_Travelers.  Are you getting the led power and charging indicators on your zamp controller?  
 

I keep thinking back to orientation and I specifically ask about having to turn it on.  What I recall is her telling me that they would not  come on since we were inside but would when outside and charging.  She also told me she’d been with Oliver since October.   I will suggest to Oliver maybe have someone with more experience with product do orientation.   
 

I did get a voltmeter, still don’t think I should be fixing this on new trailer, and can see power is going to battery.   I just missed sun so couldn’t test solar side but plan to today if sun comes out.  Raining now but supposed to clear later.   I will post back with results. 
 

You know when your controller made? When I pulled mine out to test connections Dec 2020 was stamped on top part.  

2021 Legacy Elite II Hull #807 - 2021 F150 w/ 3.5L EB and max tow package 

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29 minutes ago, TexasGuy said:

What I recall is her telling me that they would not  come on since we were inside but would when outside and charging.

The fluorescent lights in the sales delivery bay should be enough to at least get the controller power indicator and display to light up. Definitely sounds like some education would benefit the orientation process. 

31 minutes ago, TexasGuy said:

I did get a voltmeter, still don’t think I should be fixing this on new trailer, and can see power is going to battery.

Are your sure you're not seeing power coming from the batteries? The controller electronics are powered by the solar panel input. If their is no output from the controller, the battery terminals will simply be at battery voltage. You need to check for voltage across the solar panel input terminals. Rain or shine, I  think as long as there is 10 volts or so, the controller will start to come alive. 

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3 minutes ago, bhncb said:

The fluorescent lights in the sales delivery bay should be enough to at least get the controller power indicator and display to light up. Definitely sounds like some education would benefit the orientation process. 

Are your sure you're not seeing power coming from the batteries? The controller electronics are powered by the solar panel input. If their is no output from the controller, the battery terminals will simply be at battery voltage. You need to check for voltage across the solar panel input terminals. Rain or shine, I  think as long as there is 10 volts or so, the controller will start to come alive. 

Yes those lines were connected to battery so very well could be power from the batteries.   I just know lines connected to solar had no voltage reading.  Once I test those on controller I have reached my comfort level with the electronics and Oliver is going to have to figure out how to get it working.  

2021 Legacy Elite II Hull #807 - 2021 F150 w/ 3.5L EB and max tow package 

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I am getting nothing except a code "601."  Turned red cutoff switch off and on.  Looks to me like solar panels are not getting to the batteries.

On top of all this, when I removed the LP tank cover (to sync the SmartSense sensors under the tanks with my iPhone; it was supposed to have been done during delivery), I found one of the corner aluminum support blocks had come unglued and fallen off.  Could someone please tell me what kind of glue is best for reattachment?IMG_1941.thumb.jpeg.b6dc1a37455d9611c7cabc6f4b76d2df.jpeg

"R-Villa" ~ Hull #803 Legacy Elite II  Twin Beds / 2021 GMC Denali HD, 6.6 L Duramax Turbo-Diesel, 10-speed AllisonILINKYMNOHTNWImed.jpg

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So quick update. I was able to test lines connected to solar panel during daylight hours and meter registers nothing. I am seeing no power coming from solar panel connections.  So now waiting to hear back from Oliver to see how they will fix.

 

 

2021 Legacy Elite II Hull #807 - 2021 F150 w/ 3.5L EB and max tow package 

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On 5/26/2021 at 10:43 AM, IL_Travelers said:

I am getting nothing except a code "601."  Turned red cutoff switch off and on.  Looks to me like solar panels are not getting to the batteries.

On top of all this, when I removed the LP tank cover (to sync the SmartSense sensors under the tanks with my iPhone; it was supposed to have been done during delivery), I found one of the corner aluminum support blocks had come unglued and fallen off.  Could someone please tell me what kind of glue is best for reattachment?IMG_1941.thumb.jpeg.b6dc1a37455d9611c7cabc6f4b76d2df.jpeg

You get a solution for issue and get solar working? Interesting that two campers delivered within days of each other having issues. I wonder if a new person started working on these connections and did not get it setup properly?

 

 

 

 

 

 

2021 Legacy Elite II Hull #807 - 2021 F150 w/ 3.5L EB and max tow package 

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If you are not getting any reading from the panels, you likely have a poor connection, likely came loose during travel, or was not reconnected after adjusting something during install. 

I'm sure you have opened a service ticket already, for warranty work. The good news is, most major brands install Zamp, so finding a qualified tech for you in your area should be simpler than other brands. 

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2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

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Like SeaDog, I suspect something has come loose up top, inside the junction box.  That, or I don't suppose you've been through a hail storm - damaged, shorted out panels I'm pretty sure would have the same symptom.  If that's the case, careful touching them if they're in the sun.

On 5/26/2021 at 7:56 AM, TexasGuy said:

I did get a voltmeter, still don’t think I should be fixing this on new trailer, and can see power is going to battery.  

Understandable, but you needed one.  Things that sit around outside and get bounced down highways will break eventually, and so it pays to gain a little fix it knowledge and at least a small collection of fix it stuff.  

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We Too appear to be fighting a Solar/ZAMP issue not recharging Batteries, even though we have had sunny days.  ZAMP appears to be working, based upon lights and examples in manual.  On is Red, Charging is Blue, 1/4 & 1/2 are yellow.  never gets beyond that.  this has been going on for 3 days now.  what saved us (masked the issue) was that we had shore power between Solar only power...  at this time, we are essentially running on Solar only, no shore line. Well OKAY, it is dark 2200hrs , so no solar, so on Batt's/DC...

After loss of Solar Rays, the Batt's run down, then Refrig no longer works, even on Propane.  lack of sufficient battery power, shuts down Xantrex. 

i have been reading Zamp/Xantrex docs in Manuals.  and have checked all connections.  i will pull out Voltage Meter/Circuit tester tomorrow, and try to figure out how that works to provide additional information.  this may be a lack of understanding on my part; however, i am not getting error codes. except on the refrig.  

I did reset breaker underneath Street-side bed by pantry this morning once we had sun.  that seemed to get the Xantrex up and ZAMP indicated it was charging.  Zamp never seems to charge beyond 1/4-1/2 charge.  now it is dark, and Xantrex is getting red light, and shutting down.

Currently we are on the Road (stopped in McKinney TX) on Memorial Weekend...  

going to bed, will deal with it tomorrow, a new day, and hopefully the sun will be shining.

Bryan (Scrambled...)

 

Maggie & Bryan | Arnegard, ND | 2020 LE II (Twin Setup) Hull #665 | 2010 GMC 1500 Ext-Cab Sierra SLE 

 

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We were busy today organizing the storage compartments.  No time to mess with the solar issue other than to check it and note there are zero amps going from the solar panels to the batteries.  The dead batteries from the day before were recharged overnight by shore power, however.  Tomorrow I will check for loose connections and perhaps see about a breaker reset as did SNY SD UP.  

On June 6 we depart for Minnesota's North Shore for a week, then back home.  If the solar problem hasn't resolved and the television antenna still isn't working, I may just head back to Hohenwald.  Fixing stuff on a camper is a given, but not one that's a week old.

"R-Villa" ~ Hull #803 Legacy Elite II  Twin Beds / 2021 GMC Denali HD, 6.6 L Duramax Turbo-Diesel, 10-speed AllisonILINKYMNOHTNWImed.jpg

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There is a fuse (30 amp I believe) inline between the Zamp controller/charger and the batteries (John Davie's diagram above shows them).  When we picked up our brand new Ollie last November, we had NO fuse in the holder, so the Zamp was lit up and appeared to be working, but the missing fuse prevented it from actually charging the batteries.  I put a fuse in and everything worked fine.

From reading this thread, I'm not sure if anyone has checked that fuse?  It's worth a check if you haven't.

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John and Anita

2020 Oliver Elite II, Hull 688

Tow Vehicle:  2006 Silverado 2500HD Crew Cab.  6.6L Duramax

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NCeagle - i will have a look see on the fuses and get back to the forum.  i am assuming i should trip the breaker under S/S bed next to pantry before looking/opening up "yellow" inline fuse holders.  as manual says, they should be placed as close to BATT as possible, so i will be looking in that general area.  

we are (4) AGM & 340 Watt Solar Package.  i am assuming we are a ZS-30A, because we are under the 510 watt threshold, with a 340w solar panel.

Basic question - (1) will batts recharge when connected to 30a. shore power.  (i saw IL_Travelers comments) i have read lifeline batt section in opt. feat. man., but did not see/may have missed it.  this trip, we have alternated boondocking and having a 30a shore power connection.  with each boondocking, batt life is less, and basically short-lived before shutting down.

i will be out checking the fuse situation.

Maggie & Bryan | Arnegard, ND | 2020 LE II (Twin Setup) Hull #665 | 2010 GMC 1500 Ext-Cab Sierra SLE 

 

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13 hours ago, SNY SD UP said:

We Too appear to be fighting a Solar/ZAMP issue not recharging Batteries, even though we have had sunny days.  ZAMP appears to be working, based upon lights and examples in manual.  On is Red, Charging is Blue, 1/4 & 1/2 are yellow.  never gets beyond that.  this has been going on for 3 days now.  what saved us (masked the issue) was that we had shore power between Solar only power...  at this time, we are essentially running on Solar only, no shore line. Well OKAY, it is dark 2200hrs , so no solar, so on Batt's/DC...

After loss of Solar Rays, the Batt's run down, then Refrig no longer works, even on Propane.  lack of sufficient battery power, shuts down Xantrex. 

i have been reading Zamp/Xantrex docs in Manuals.  and have checked all connections.  i will pull out Voltage Meter/Circuit tester tomorrow, and try to figure out how that works to provide additional information.  this may be a lack of understanding on my part; however, i am not getting error codes. except on the refrig.  

I did reset breaker underneath Street-side bed by pantry this morning once we had sun.  that seemed to get the Xantrex up and ZAMP indicated it was charging.  Zamp never seems to charge beyond 1/4-1/2 charge.  now it is dark, and Xantrex is getting red light, and shutting down.

Currently we are on the Road (stopped in McKinney TX) on Memorial Weekend...  

going to bed, will deal with it tomorrow, a new day, and hopefully the sun will be shining.

Bryan (Scrambled...)

 

I’m actually starting my trek back to Allen Texas tomorrow which is next city south.   I had access to ladder today so got up and checked both fuses on roof and connections. All  connections and fuses were good.  I’ll look for fuse John notes in diagram.   I haven’t been able to find that one yet.  

2021 Legacy Elite II Hull #807 - 2021 F150 w/ 3.5L EB and max tow package 

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Posted (edited)

Update - i checked the (3) yellow inline fuses, and all were there, and all appeared to be in working condition.

i am adding pic's, as that always helps

when system started up this morning, the 1/4 batt icon was lit.  by the time i took pic (1) shows light config, and at 1/2. 

i shut down Xantrex before i tripped  breakers 6 & 7 before checking on fuses.  after i reset breakers 6 & 7, i happened to notice that (3) 3/4 Batt icon was lit, this has not happened for over a week.  the breakers appeared to be in working (levers were not sticking out) condition.  when i tripped & reset, it looked the same as before i tripped.

Question - 8 Batt Icon.  if i am understanding the manual, i should be able to check the status of each battery.  we only ever see BT1.  we have AGM's, does that make a diff?  how about the way they are connected in the Batt Box? 

  TexasGuy - i have a ladder and will check that area

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8 BATT Icon.JPG

7 Main Breaker under S-S Bed, up against Pantry.JPG

6 Another Breaker under S-S Bed, high up against Pantry.JPG

3.JPG

1.JPG

2.JPG

Edited by SNY SD UP
forgot something, third time is a charm...

Maggie & Bryan | Arnegard, ND | 2020 LE II (Twin Setup) Hull #665 | 2010 GMC 1500 Ext-Cab Sierra SLE 

 

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pulled out the ladder and re-examined the connection boxes under the solar panels.  Boxes & Cables .et.al seemed to be connected (not loose) securely & properly.

i am beginning to think i may have battery issues, rather than solar, as the Solar (charging) Lights lights show that it appear to be working. 

i forgot to check for current coming in from solar, so i will (as in learn) do that.  

Maggie & Bryan | Arnegard, ND | 2020 LE II (Twin Setup) Hull #665 | 2010 GMC 1500 Ext-Cab Sierra SLE 

 

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