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Checklists - for setting up, breaking down, hitching up, etc....help me in my quest for checklists!


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Hi All!

 

I will be picking up my Ollie in less than 2 months.  Again, as a newbie to RVing, I am still trying to learn…but so far, I feel I have learned a lot from reading these forums – so a big thanks to all of you!  Anyway, I have looked at different checklists on how to set up and break down the trailer, trailer hookup, trip preparation, etc.  After looking at tons of checklists (and Youtube videos), I have attempted to create my own checklists.  Some may look at these lists and think they have too much info, and that they are overkill – but personally, I work better with very specific instructions. 

Although these checklists are long, I was hoping that you guys would look and provide feedback on them.  Did I miss steps?  Is the order correct?  Did I use the correct terminology?  And so on.  I know this is a big ask as the lists are longs on detailed....but any help would be appreciated.  If worst comes to worse, I guess I will find out if they are correct when I go to use them.    

Note that if you see RED in the script, then it is a question I have or something I still need to fill out – so if you have the answer, I would love to hear it.   

I have attached a document with the checklists, but I have also cut and pasted the checklist below....just to make it easier for anyone.  The document is in .docx format...if you need it in another format, let me know.   Also, after I complete the checklist and go through them a couple of times, I will post a file with all the updates of them so it can be downloaded by anyone interested in it.

Thanks! 

 

(1a)  Campsite arrival and set up - Inside trailer

 

1)            Put steps down of Ollie.

2)            Unlock Ollie door.

3)            Open window shades.

4)            Open windows as needed.

5)            ?  Open stove vent   ?

6)            Pull out shower drain cutoff valve (inside bathroom at toilet base) to open shower drain.

7)            Open bathroom fan vent.

😎            Open Maxx fan lid/vent if it is not open. 

9)            If propane was not on:  Verify stove is off, turn on propane outside, and light stove burner for 30 seconds (to remove air from line). 

10)          If at RV park (with electrical):  Switch refrigerator from ‘LP’ (propane) to electric.

11)          Verify refrigerator is working correct AND in correct mode (should be ‘LP’ if not at RV park with electric).

12)          If boondocking and using fresh water tank:  Turn on water pump.  (but maybe turn on faucet first?)

13)          Verify kitchen faucet is working.

14)          Turn on gas water heater switch  ?

15)          Turn off backup camera.  ? 

16)          Turn on furnace if cold.

17)          If at RV park AND electrical is hooked up:  Turn on A/C if hot.

18)          Put out welcome mat, chairs, etc 

 

 

(1b)  Campsite arrival and set up - Outside trailer

 

1)            Using spotter, back up into campsite.  Watch out for branches.

2)            ?  Turn off GPS in vehicle.  ?

3)            Put on work gloves.

4)            Eyeball trailer is not too far and will be able to hook up to sewer, electrical, and water.

5)            Level trailer side to side using Anderson levelers.  Use level inside for final determination.

6)            Set chocks - front and back of both wheels.  Important: set chocks before detaching

            safety chains or the trailer from the hitch!

7)            To unhitch trailer (after you are sure you are close enough to water/electrical/sewer): 

                A)    Detach breakaway cable from truck and stow.

                B)    Remove hitch coupler pin (that has electric pigtail under it) from hitch coupler lever and stow.

                C)    Detach 7-pin electric pigtail from truck and stow.

                D)    Detach safety breakaway cord from truck and stow.

                E)    Detach safety chains from truck and stow.

                 F)    Put leveling blocks under front jack leg so it doesn’t sink in. 

                 G)   Lower front jack leg so tongue is raised about 2-4" until chains are slack.

                 H)    Pull cotter pin from WDH triangle pin.

                 I)      Pull WDH triangle pin from WDH (you may have to wiggle triangle back and forth while pulling out).

                  J)     Insert cotter pin back into WDH triangle pin (so you don’t lose it) and stow WDH triangle pin.

                  K)    Drop WDH triangle and chains on ground.

                  L)    Raise front jack leg so tongue is level with truck hitch.    

                  M)   Pull up on hitch coupler lever.

                  N)    Lower front jack leg to raise tongue and release tongue from ball.  If necessary, use foot to push down on hitch to help separate ball from hitch.

                  O)   Lock trailer hitch with hitch lock.  

😎            Move truck to parking spot.

9)            Raise or lower front jack leg onto leveling block to level trailer front to rear.  Use level inside for

            final determination.

10)          Lower rear stabilizer legs onto leveling blocks to stabilize back of Ollie.

11)          After making sure that stove, heater, furnace, and water heater are off:  Turn on propane

12)          If at RV park:  Hook up electric: 

                A)    Attach one end of electrical cord to RV.  Note:  Always hook up to RV first!!!

               B)    Attach the other end to surge suppressor. 

               C)    Attach surge suppressor to 50-amp converter if needed.  

               D)    Verify that breaker is OFF on pole side before plugging in.

                E)    Connect converter (or surge suppressor) to park electric outlet. 

                 F)    Make sure no faults are detected by surge suppressor. 

                 G)   Turn on breaker.

13)          If at RV park: Hook up water:

                A)    Wipe off water faucet with sanitizing wipe (or spray with disinfectant).

                B)    Attach ‘Y’ to faucet.

                C)    Attach 55 PSI pressure regulator to ‘Y’.

                D)    Attach inline filter to pressure regulator.

                 E)    Attach white water hose to inline filter.

                 F)    Attach white water hose to city water line.

                 G)   Do NOT turn on water pump inside Ollie!

14)          If at RV park: Hook up gray water sewage:

               A)    Put on gloves. 

               B)    Bring out sewage drain hose support and put sewage drain hose on it.

               C)    Remove cap and attach sewage drain hose to sewage hole.

               D)    DO NOT pull out grey tank handle to open.  Save grey water for cleaning sewage hose.

15)        Check water heater for propane odor - light pilot and turn on or use auto ignite on newer models.

16)          Turn furnace electric switch on - older model have switch on the furnace under the sink, newer

            models do not have a switch.  Not sure if we have a switch or not. 

17)          Extent and secure awning (optional).

         

 

(2a)  Campsite departure preparation - Inside trailer

 

1)            Clean up, put stuff away, secure items.

2)            Vacuum. 

3)            Refrigerator - check inside, throw away anything old, latch door tightly, switch to ‘LP’ (propane)

            (if you were set to electric), and verify that refrigerator is running on propane. 

4)            If dumping garbage:  Collect and bag garbage AND put in truck.

5)            Turn off TV and stow away.

6)            Verify stove burners are off.

7)            Secure microwave glass plate (maybe in sink?).

😎            Close and secure ALL windows (including bathroom window).  Note that non-bathroom windows

            can be left open ( < 4 inches) if there is no rain in the forecast and the day is hot.

9)            Close ALL window shades (so they don’t have problems when traveling) unless windows are kept

            open.

10)          Close bathroom fan vent.   

11)          Push in shower drain shutoff valve (inside bathroom at toilet base) to close shower drain. 

12)          If dumping garbage:  Collect and bag garbage AND put in truck.

13)          Turn off A/C.

14)          Turn off furnace and lower thermostat.

15)          Turn off Maxx fan - close lid/vent, turn switch and speed to off, thermostat on red.  Note that the

               Maxx fan lid/vent can be left open if there is no rain in the forecast. 

16)          Make sure ALL cabinet and drawers are closed tightly.

17)          Lock bathroom door.

18)          Lock pantry and front closet door.

19)          Turn on backup camera  ? 

20)          Turn off water pump.

21)          Bring in any outside mats. 

22)          Turn off all lights.

 

 

(2b)  Campsite departure preparation - Outside trailer

 

1)            If at RV park/dump station:  Raise 2 rear stabilizer jacks a foot. 

2)            If at RV park/dump station:  Raise front of trailer one-half foot using electric stabilization jack so

            grey tank will flow out better.  DO NOT raise so high that 2 rear stabilizer jacks touch ground! 

3)            If at RV park/dump station:  Put on disposable gloves.

4)            If at dump station:  Connect sewage drain hose to sewer hole (it should already be attached if at RV park).

5)            If at RV park/dump station:  Empty black tank by pulling out black tank handle to open.

6)            If at RV park/dump station:  Verify sewage drain hose has stopped draining.

7)            If at RV park/dump station:  Push in black tank handle to close.

1)            If at RV park/dump station:  Empty grey tank by pulling out grey tank handle to open.

2)            If at RV park/dump station:  Verify sewage drain hose has stopped draining.

3)            If at RV park/dump station:  Push in grey tank handle to close.

4)            If at RV park:  Turn off white tank water at RV faucet. 

5)            If at RV park:  Disconnect white water hose, spray with disinfectant, connect ends, and stow.

6)            If at RV park/dump station:  Spray black tank water hose with disinfectant and attach to RV

            faucet.

7)            If at RV park/dump station:  Attached black tank water hose to black tank flush inlet.

😎            If at RV park/dump station:  Turn on water at faucet.

9)            If at RV park/dump station:  Monitor black tank from inside RV.  When 2/3 full, pull open black

            tank handle.

10)          If at RV park/dump station:  When running clear, turn off water at faucet.

11)          If at RV park/dump station:  Disconnect black tank water hose, spray with disinfectant, connect ends, and stow.

12)          If at RV park/dump station:  Squeeze sewage drain hose so any excess goes into sewer hole.

13)          If at RV park/dump station:  Disconnect sewage drain hose from sewer hole

14)          If at RV park/dump station:  Spray sewage drain hose with disinfectant, cap, and stow.

15)          If at RV park/dump station:  Throw away gloves and wash hands.

16)          If at RV park/dump station:  Spray water hose ends with disinfectant, connect ends, and stow.

17)          If at RV park:  Turn off electric from electrical hookup.

18)          If at RV park:  Disconnect electrical cord from RV and stow.

19)          If at RV park:  Disconnect cable TV cord from RV and stow.

20)          Stow outside thermometer.

21)          Get any items you need for truck from inside trailer (water, keys, etc.).

22)          Close and secure awning.

23)          Bring up both stabilizers and front tongue support jacks.  Stow all 3 leveling blocks.

24)          Water heater - off.

25)          ?  Secure stove vent.  ?

26)          ?  Put on A/C cover.  ?

27)          Walk around trailer and stow anything left out.  

28)          Lock outside storage compartments.

29)          Verify all lights are out.

30)          Lock trailer door.

31)          Raise aluminum steps.

32)          Hitch up truck to travel trailer.  Follow instructions in '(3) Trailer Hookup' section below.

 

 

(3)  Trailer Hookup

 

1)             Back up truck to hitch about 6 inches from trailer hitch - make sure you are straight.

2)             Need to add part if trailer and truck are not straight to each other (could be tough to set up

             WDH). 

3)             Raise rear stabilizer legs all the way up and stow both leveling blocks.

4)             Unlock hitch coupler lock and stow.  

5)             Pull up on hitch coupler lever.

6)             Put leveling block under, then lower front jack leg to raise tongue so ball receiver (on trailer) will

             clear the hitch ball (on truck).

7)             Back up truck as to position hitch ball under ball receiver, but just a little forward - about a 1/2".

😎             Raise front jack leg to lower tongue onto hitch, until hitch is snug with ball.

9)             Push down on hitch coupler lever to lock hitch onto ball.

10)           Insert hitch coupler pin into hitch coupler lever (so secure it).  

11)           Lower front jack leg until no weight on truck hitch.  This not only verifies the lock/ball is secure,

 but allows easier installation of WDH. 

12)           Take cotter pin out of WDH triangle pin.

13)           Slide WHD triangle under the hitch

14)           Secure WDH triangle with WDH triangle pin.

15)           Insert cotter pin in WDH triangle pin to secure it.

16)           Raise front jack leg all the way up. 

17)           Verify that WDH chains are tight.

18)           Attach safety chains to truck so they crisscross UNDER tow bar.

19)           Attach 7-pin electrical pigtail to truck (under hitch coupler pin).

20)           Attach safety breakaway cord to truck (NOT to safety chains).

21)           Remove chocks and stow.

22)          Pull trailer forward a little - recheck hitch to see if secure.

23)          Pick up Anderson levelers and any   

24)          Test trailer brake lights and turn signals.

25)          Walk around trailer and stow anything left out.  

 

 

 

(4)  When leaving the RV for a hike or car trip

 

1)            Retract awning.

2)            Bring in any items that you don't want wet or blown away.

3)            Turn off generator and lock it up.

4)            Put away solar.

5)            Check A/C or heat – turn on if needed.

6)            Lock up trailer.

 

 

(5)  Trip Preparation (leaving home)

 

1)            One day before:  Connect RV to shore power (AC).

2)            One day before:  Check propane tanks and fill if needed.

3)            One day before:  Verify stove is off. 

4)            One day before:  Open up propane valve. 

5)            One day before:  Turn on stove for 30 seconds to clear air from propane lines.

6)            One day before:  Turn refrigerator on to AC and set to 9 (which is the coldest setting).

7)            Check air in tires - fill to recommended psi of tires.

😎            Fill fresh water tank about 1/3 full - top it off at or near your destination.

9)            Open hot water tank bypass valve - handle in vertical position to open, horizontal to bypass.

10)          Turn on pump and run all faucets (not all at once) from the rear to the front - hot and cold to

            remove air.

11)          Run water into toilet to remove air from lines and to add water to black tank before use.

12)          Day of trip: Follow instructions in ‘(2a) Campsite departure preparation - Inside trailer’ section

            above.

13)          Day of trip:  Disconnect electrical cord from RV and stow.

14)          Day of trip:  Follow instructions in '(2b) Campsite departure preparation - Outside trailer’ section

            above, including any instructions in the ‘(3) Trailer Hookup’ section.  Ignore any ‘If at RV

            park/dump station’ instructions. 

15)          Open Maxx fan vent. 

 

 

(6)  Trip ending (arriving home)

 

1)          Follow instructions in '(1b)  Campsite arrival and set up - Outside trailer’ section above.

2)          Put steps down of Ollie.

3)          Unlock Ollie door.

4)            Turn off backup camera.  ? 

5)            Remove all items from refrigerator.  Turn off refrigerator.  Make sure door stays open.

6)            Put dog towels in refrigerator to capture water from defrosting.       

7)            Turn off propane. 

😎            Empty water tank.

9)            Close Maxx fan vent.

10)          Close window shades.

 

 

(7)  Filling up 30 gallon white water tank from water spigot (fresh water inlet)

 

1)    Wipe off water faucet with sanitizing wipe (or spray with disinfectant)

2)    Attach 55 PSI pressure regulator to water faucet.

3)    Attach inline filters to pressure regulator.

4)    Attach white water hose to inline filter.

5)    Attach white water hose to fresh water tank inlet.

6)    Turn on water until water overflows or Seelevel monitor says it is full - then turn off water.

7)    Detach pressure regulator from water faucet.

😎    Detach white water hose from inline filter.

9)    Squeeze out water from white water hose, then detach from fresh water tank inlet.

10)  Wipe off white water hose with sanitizing wipe (or spray with disinfectant), connect ends.

11)  Stow white water hose, pressure regulator, and inline filters. 

 

 

(8)  Filling up 30 gallon white water tank from water container or jugs (via boondocking inlet) while you are boondocking

 

1)    Wipe off boondocking inlet with sanitizing wipe (or spray with disinfectant)

2)    Attach white water hose to boondocking inlet behind Ollie.

3)    Attach white water hose to jug or container holding the water.

4)    Turn ALL 4 valves counter clockwise.  As info:

                 a)    upper left valve opens from rear boondocking inlet.

                 b)    lower left valve opens from fresh water tank.

                 c)     lower middle valve closes from faucets.

                d)    lower right valve closed from city water.

5)    Tun on pump – water will start flowing from water jugs to fresh water tank.

6)    When all water has been pumped in, turn off pump.    

7)    Detach white water hose from inline filter.

😎    Squeeze out water from white water hose, then detach from boondocking inlet.

9)    Wipe off white water hose with sanitizing wipe (or spray with disinfectant), connect ends.

10)  Stow white water hose, pressure regulator, and inline filters. 

11)  To continue boondocking:

                 a)    Turn upper left valve clockwise to close rear boondocking inlet.

                 b)    Turn lower middle valve clockwise to open faucets.

 

 

tripmush - checklist.docx

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Pretty thorough.  Made my head hurt a little reading through everything.  I think you’ll be able to whittle these steps down after a while.  We don’t use checklists when setting up, tearing down or dumping, it’s pretty much second nature.  We both do specific things and then we double check what each has done.  We do use checklists for packing, too easy to forget to bring something.  A few comments on your list:

- I am not aware of any stove vent that needs opening.

- We travel with propane on.  The fridge switches to 110v automatically if we’re hooked up.

- We generally turn the water pump on when we need to use water, we don‘t leave it on 24/7 when boondocking.

- If you have the suburban hot water tank and the outside switch is on it will automatically use 110v.  If dry camping we turn the hot water gas on before we need hot water.  Once hot, it will stay pretty hot for a while without the gas cycling on and off.

- When we arrive at a site the first thing we do before backing or pulling in is to walk the site and verify where utilities are (if any) so we know where best to park.

- Not sure why you need to hook your electrical cable to the trailer first.  Just ensure the breaker in the box is off before hooking up electrical.  We don’t have the on board surge protector, so we plug one into the pole that checks the electricity.  It usually has about a 45 second delay before it passes electricity.  I think the newer trailers have built in surge protection.  You’ll use 30a most of the time, only twice have I had to use 50a, once because that’s all there was and once because the 30a was bad.

- Your “gray water sewage” is really black water sewage.  Black and gray go down the same hole.  I flush the black tank a couple of times before pulling the gray handle.

- Trip prep: I always check trailer lug nuts before a trip.

- We travel with a full fresh tank.  There are times you may not be able to fill once you arrive.

- “white water” is normally referred to as fresh water.  Gray and black have the colors!

- if you are at a dump station, you’ll learn to be pretty efficient especially if folks are waiting.  We’ve never had anyone get impatient but we try to be ready so we don’t have to do a lot of unloading to get what we need to dump.

Like I said, some of this will get to be second nature, just enjoy the process!  Mike

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Texas Hill Country | Elite II #135 | Ram 2500 6.7L

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I may make a couple of replies here as I read through. Also, I am not sure if you actually mean 1a (inside trailer setup) precedes 1b (outside trailer setup) or if that is the order you wrote them in. I would set up the outside before setting up the inside.  So let me start with 1b. Also sometimes the order is important and sometimes it is not. I will only comment if I think it would serve you better to change an the order.  One more thing, we have only had our trailer for a year so someone else with more experience may have better input, but hopefully I can get you started.

After backing in to the site and before doing anything like unhooking or anything else for that matter I check my power with my surge suppressor and make sure the water is working.  I have never had problems so far,  but better to find before you unhook if you have power or water issues. With power breaker off, plug in your surge suppressor and then power on your breaker. My surge suppressor gives a blue and green light if proper wiring.  All good, turn off breaker. Check water.  Maybe add this to step 4. All good, then you can proceed with your list.

I have made adjustments to 7.  I wasn't sure what you were talking about in some cases so I reworded a couple

1b 7)       To unhitch trailer (after you are sure you are close enough to water/electrical/sewer): 

                A)    Detach safety emergency brake cable from truck and stow.

                B)    Detach 7-pin electric pigtail from truck and stow.

                C)    Detach safety chains from truck and stow.

                D)    Put leveling blocks under front jack leg so it doesn’t sink in. 

                E)   Lower front jack leg so tongue is raised about 2-4" until chains are slack.

                F)    Pull cotter pin from WDH triangle pin.

                G)      Pull WDH triangle pin from WDH (you may have to wiggle triangle back and forth while pulling out).

                H)     Insert cotter pin back into WDH triangle pin (so you don’t lose it) and stow WDH triangle pin.

                 I)    Drop WDH triangle and chains on ground.

                 J)    Adjust front jack so tongue is level with truck hitch.  

                 K)    Remove hitch coupler pin

                 L)   Pull up on hitch coupler lever.

                 M)    Lower front jack leg to raise tongue and release tongue from ball.  If necessary, use foot to push down on hitch to help separate ball from hitch.

                 N)   Lock trailer hitch with hitch lock.  

 

Continuing at 12. Since I already verified power working from above and my surge protector is connected I connect my cable to Oliver, make sure breaker is off on power pole, attach cable to surge suppressor and turn on power. 

Also I just  noted  that Mike and Carol replied so I read through their thoughts and  will not repeat their input now.

I will try to read through departure and pre trip stuff in a bit.

 

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2019 Ram 1500 - 2020 LEll - Hull #676

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When draining your grey tank, I noted you elevated the front of trailer that is good. Also you should open the drain valve inside the trailer when at dump station. Probably already open when connected to full hookups at campsite. Opening the shower drain valve lets the gray tank drain faster because it allows air to enter the tank. Make sure to close it prior to heading off down the road. 

Like Mike said I am not aware of any stove vents that need opening or closing.

Not sure I would drive with and a/c cover on.

Overall I think your lists are pretty thorough. You may adjust things as you get more familiar with it. Like Mike said, just go out and enjoy it!

 

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2019 Ram 1500 - 2020 LEll - Hull #676

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TL/DR so I don't have feedback on the details of your long lists, but I'm wondering if you've seen the checklists for getting ready for towing and for setting up camp that are in the Oliver user manual (available on this site at the Oliver University section)? They strike me as a great starting point and a nice balance between being  thorough while avoiding numbing the  mind with detail. They also have good steps for sanitizing as well as winterizing the water system. I've added a few things on top of their list for my pre-flight process but only a few.

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Jim and  Yanna, Woodinville WA

2004 Ford E250 camper conversion

Oliver Elite II hull #709

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A big thanks to all that have looked so far....I know, this is mind numbing.   I do enjoy researching and writing these up, and will enjoy actually going through the checklist after I get my Ollie....maybe I am a bit weird.  Haha!  

 

Mike – great advice.

1)    I thought that I read of some issue when allowing the refrigerator to auto switch – hence while I know it is possible, I think I will just do it manually. 

2)    I have been told that it is fine to keep the pump on 24x7…but would love to hear what other people do.

3)    I will have the Truma On-demand water heater.  Maybe someone can chime in on if there is anything to do with that when arriving or leaving?

4)    Great idea about walking around the site for trailer placement.  I will add it to the checklist.

5)    I thought I read that if the site does NOT have a breaker (or off/on switch), then it was best to attach electric cable to RV first, then to campsite electrical box.  So I figured I would just plug in trailer first, then campsite electrical box.  But I could be wrong…either way, at the worst, it shouldn’t matter if I put into camper first.    

6)    Good point about gray/blackwater being on the same outlet.  I have updated checklist.  I agree that at the when I use the last dump station on a trip, that I should flush the black tank a couple of time.  I will update my checklist with that info.   

7)    I will add ‘check lug nuts’ to pre-trip checklist.  Can you tell me how I actually check them?  Should I just use my hand and verify they are tight?

😎    I heard it is best to travel with less water….for gas milage.  But I do agree that I don’t want to have to top it off near the boondocking site.  I will update my checklist to fill all of the way.

9)    Great point – I have changed ‘white water’ to ‘fresh water’. 

10)   

 

 

Ray – thanks for the rewrite.  I separated that outside and inside sections (1a/1b and 2a/2b) because I am blessed to have a wife that will be helping me….so she will take the inside stuff and I will do the outside stuff in parallel.  Although we do plan on switching it up sometimes so we can have a better understanding of how to do it, just in case one of us is sick or traveling solo.

I agree that sometimes the order does make a difference.  I tried to be very mindful of that, ad tried to order it correctly – but if order did not matter, I tried to order it so it was done efficiently.  That being said, yes, please let me know if it could be better.

Great point about checking power and water before unhooking…I will update the checklist.

I changed the unhitching process by changing some of the terms I used – yours were better.  I think one of the big differences between your and mine, though, is the fact that in mine, I remove the hutch coupler pin (but do NOT pull up on it) a lot earlier.  That is because I followed the most current ‘Anderson hitch – instructional guide’ video put up by Oliver (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPT_-4rBDbo).  In that video, they run the 7-pin through the ‘metal clip of the bulldog coupler’ – so in my checklist, that would need to be done very early on.  Anyway, my #7 (now #10) looks like this:

10)  To unhitch trailer (after you are sure you are close enough to water/electrical/sewer): 

A)    Unlock hitch lock. 

B)    Detach safety emergency brake cable from truck and stow.

C)    Remove hitch coupler pin (that has 7-pin electric pigtail under it) from hitch coupler lever and stow.

D)    Detach 7-pin electric pigtail from truck and stow.

E)    Detach safety chains from truck and stow.

F)    Put leveling blocks under front jack leg so it doesn’t sink in. 

G)   Lower front jack leg so tongue is raised about 2-4" until chains are slack.

H)    Pull cotter pin from WDH triangle pin.

I)      Pull WDH triangle pin from WDH (you may have to wiggle triangle back and forth while pulling out).

J)     Insert cotter pin back into WDH triangle pin (so you don’t lose it) and stow WDH triangle pin.

K)    Drop WDH triangle and chains on ground.

L)    Raise front jack leg so tongue is level with truck hitch.    

M)   Pull up on hitch coupler lever.

N)    Lower front jack leg to raise tongue and release tongue from ball.  If necessary, use foot to push down on hitch to help separate ball from hitch.

O)   Lock trailer hitch with hitch lock.  

 

Good point about opening shower drain when dumping….I have updated the checklist.

I have removed the A/C cover reference. 

 

Jim – yes, I have spent hours poring though those checklists, but found that I, being a newbie (and maybe a bit mentally challenged) needed a lot more in-depth info.    

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1 hour ago, tripmushrv said:

will add ‘check lug nuts’ to pre-trip checklist.  Can you tell me how I actually check them?  Should I just use my hand and verify they are tight?

I bought a decent quality torque wrench for checking the lug nuts as well as other important nuts and bolts. This let me verify that they're at the correct tightness but allowing me to not go over that. Which seems worth a little money though it also adds to payload weight. I've found with my new ish trailer and its aluminum rims that some of them have continued needing a little more tightening from time to time to be at the recommended torque. No way I'd have been able to judge that just by feel 

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Jim and  Yanna, Woodinville WA

2004 Ford E250 camper conversion

Oliver Elite II hull #709

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10 hours ago, Jim_Oker said:

I bought a decent quality torque wrench for checking the lug nuts as well as other important nuts and bolts. This let me verify that they're at the correct tightness but allowing me to not go over that. Which seems worth a little money though it also adds to payload weight. I've found with my new ish trailer and its aluminum rims that some of them have continued needing a little more tightening from time to time to be at the recommended torque. No way I'd have been able to judge that just by feel 

I should probably use a torque wrench too but I just use one of those extendable lug nut tools.  Usually they are tight, but occasionally a few need some tightening.  I don’t carry my torque wrench when camping.  I’ll get it out when we get home and see if my brute force method is close to the standard.  The important thing is to check them before each trip and occasionally during long trips.

Texas Hill Country | Elite II #135 | Ram 2500 6.7L

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Thanks Jim and Mike/Carol.  I just bought a torque wrench, and have watched some Youtube videos (along with reading the instructions that came with it), so I feel with a little practice I will be able to check them with the torque wrench.   

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I am a little surprised that wheel nuts need regular tightening, I haven’t found them to loosen at all, once they are checked once or twice after installing the wheels. They do however loosen noticeably if you paint (or install new) drums, the paint underneath the wheel hubs compresses and makes things looser. I am not trying to downplay the need to check them, but before every trip is not necessary if they have already “settled down”. OTH, checking too often never hurt anything, if it makes you feel better. And it might catch something weird before it gets dangerous. I do not carry a torque wrench on trips, even long ones.

One thing I do is to raise the tires off the ground every two thousand miles or so, and check for any signs of loose or rough bearings. That, plus a TPMS, plus quality bearings and grease, should eliminate any chances of catastrophe.

Tripmushrv, be sure to set the wrench back to the minimum value before storage, and be gentle with it, no drops to concrete please. It is a fairly delicate tool. And it should only be used for tightening, not for removing nuts. It can be used for other stuff too, like your suspension or coupler hardware.Even if you are not comfortable checking those, a kindly campground neighbor might be, if you have the tool and sockets to do the job.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel.

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23 minutes ago, John E Davies said:

I am a little surprised that wheel nuts need regular tightening, I haven’t found them to loosen at all, once they are checked once or twice after installing the wheels.

I'm at just under 3,500 miles. I would imagine mine won't need any additional tightening - just that periodic checking, at which point I'll likely leave the  torque wrench  at home too. I'm guessing there's a bit of imperfection to the holes  in the aluminum wheels and that by now any flattening out that was happening is probably  done with.

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Jim and  Yanna, Woodinville WA

2004 Ford E250 camper conversion

Oliver Elite II hull #709

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Wow, I never had a list for trailer camping and setup, it just all seemed to work together and with a little commonsense it always seemed to work out well.  For those who feel uncomfortable and are first timers that you might consider setting up and taking down the trailer at home, maybe you will have to go through the process 2-3 times and all will start to fall in place for you. For me it's a three step process, 1. find your camping site, check it out by observation and then pull in, level and unhitch from tow vehicle, 2. hookup all the utilities and check each operation for correct operation, 3. setup chairs, tables, grill, and everything else that you will need for your camping pleasure. I would say this should take no more then 30-45 minutes to do, unless you stop and talk with other campers which can be distraction at times. My wife does the inside setup and I do the outside, but inside usually goes quick, so she will also help outside with chairs, lights, etc. Do remember it's not a race to see how fast you can do it, you don't get prizes for being first. I would say here that teardown takes longer, mainly because I clean and  re-roll all lines and return them to there storage area for use again. Last remember that not all camping sites are perfect and you will find yourself making repairs at the electrical and water hookup faucet connections, yes bad and worn out leaking faucets are common, being a electrician and plumber are required for your camping success at times, so carry tools you will need them for something, for sure. 

trainman

Elite II, Twin Bed, Hull #489, 2019 RAM 1500, 5.7 Hemi, 4X4, Crew Cab, 5'7" bed, Towing Package, 3.92 Gears.

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6 minutes ago, Trainman said:

remember it's not a race to see how fast you can do it, you don't get prizes for being first.

I once raced an airstream to get the last spot at a campground.  It was a good spot, too.

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