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I recall they are: D35 Axles have 10 X 2.5" shoes. D52 Axles have 12" X 2" shoe. Both magnets sets pull a nominal 3 amps each. Wiring per above is the same (Run thru the axle) GJ

I will second the compost toilet choice. Never wait in line at a dump station, never waist a single gallon of fresh water flushing the toilet. With only 32 gallons of fresh water you can extend your dry camping significantly by economizing your fresh water. In the same line of thinking, getting the big lithium package empowers you to dry camp in complete silence for extended periods, and even use your AC for short periods before bedtime and replenish the batteries with the solar if you have good sun exposure. At the annual rally every year, there’s always a few people that ask the question, “ how hard/expensive is it to upgrade from AGM to the Lithium package”, and every year Jason has to explain it’s much more expensive then ordering it up front and quite involved. The entire electrical system, excluding the house wiring, has to be changed out. It can be done, and it can be DIY’d later for less, but the integrated system from the factory functions very well, and the components are premium quality. Second awning? I don’t think it’s worth the price for what it’ll get used for. Good luck with your decision, I think you’ll be very happy own an Oliver for your traveling future. Take the factory tour for sure!👍

We arrived in Hohenwald this evening for our appointment to get our battery box fixed. We’re the only ones here in the campground, so I hope that means our trailer will get their full attention tomorrow! We stayed at Clear Springs COE campground on Wright Patman Lake just outside of Texarkana on the Texas side last night. We’ve stayed there many times, it’s about a days drive from San Antonio, a good stop over when heading east. Here we are at the Oliver campground. We have it all to ourselves.

Either get the factory rearview camera or plan on installing one soon after purchase. The second shore power inlet and second propane outlet can be very useful if you plan on doing a bunch of cooking outside, camping at places that have electric hookups and/or plan on a generator. There is an old saying - "always give the man a chance to say no". In the case of the Oliver, that would mean that you should negotiate your best price and then ask for a little help (discount) off that price. In any case I would not expect anything more than 1 or 2 grand discount. Or, perhaps you could ask for them to sweeten the deal with something that caught your eye on the sales floor - camping rug, grill, chairs, fire pit, etc.. Perhaps Oliver has a floor model that comes close to what you are looking for and they might be interested in making you a "deal" on that one. It never hurts to ask. Good luck! Bill

I've had my pre-owned Elite II (2016) since 2021. And I interact with many other Oliver owners at rallies, such as Oliver rallies as well as general "egg" rallies, fiberglass rallies. Those are the best! I don't have much in the ways of upgraded electronics, but here is what I "think" I know. Maybe someone else will agree or not. From what I've heard, hardly anyone stays with the heavy, low-powered AGM batteries. Which I do have even today. I would recommend at least going up the 390AH lithium batteries, which will include the 3000 Watt Inverter. I would think, but not sure, it would make for an easier upgrade path in the future to larger lithiums if needed. I also do not have a compost toilet, but would like one by default, but also not worth my time and money to convert what I have. If NOT storing the camper inside or under cover, consider not having the "bulb seals" installed under the awning housing. They trap too much tree junk and makes it much more difficult to clean the roof. They can always be added later if you don't like a little rain dribble coming down the sides of the camper. If you think you'll do a good bit of desert camping, I would get the extra awning, otherwise, save the weight & money and any other hassles that may come with more electronic equipment. These is only my opinions. Like ears, we all have them. LOL Good luck. P.S. No matter what you order, it will be the best trailer you can purchase. Just remember, it's still an earthquake on four wheels with all standard RV parts & components. Things will break, but you'll seldom ever need to worry about the frame or body falling apart or leaking. Also this site will be your best bet for quick answers and how-tos.

Thanks guys. I sort of suspected as much. But was wishing the other way. GJ

We like our composting toilet. It is not maintenance free but certainly prefer it over the limitations of the small black tank. We do have the upgraded batteries and can go a good week or more with batteries and solar (but no ac). We do not have the second awning and for the locations where we camp, we are glad we didn't pay extra for it. In fact, we use our curbside awning only about half the time and only fully extended in the middle of the summer. Personally, I liked buying directly from the factory and staying overnight in their campsites to learn and check out. I wish we had spent a second night there because there were issues we later discovered that could have been corrected right then and there at the factory.

Dexter pre-wires the brake wires inside the axel. Oliver only connects their wiring to the Dexter wiring.

So for those ordering straight from the factory, there are no negotiations and everyone pays the exact same price? I'm planning on the LE2 Platinum twin configuration. I'm considering the composting toilet. I think the only other options would be the second awning and upgraded batteries, both of which I'm not planning to add. Anything else I should know before purchasing?

Which connection anchors did you use..for the side of the trailer mount? CS

I wonder why no one is talking about the new board available ... that fix this issue

I was trying to find specs on the brakes. What I found is the it didn't matter if it was 12" or 10" brakes. Dexter shows 12 gauge to run 2 or 4 brakes from the tongue of the trailer. I do not think the dexter wires coming out of each of 10" brakes are 12 gauge the look more like 14 or 16 gauge. Other places such as trailer shows 14 gauge to each brake. One 12 gauge from the tongue could easily be split into 4 separate 14 gauge wires. I just do not know how and where Oliver did this. If there are problems I would say it was Oliver design problems and not Alcan upgrade.

Probably depends on the weight of the new shade and amount of contact area but do you think rubber cement would work? Easy to apply, easy to remove and inexpensive.

Agree with Steve, it's not like typical RV sales with the Olivers where you go on a lot and see them deeply discounted by thousands of dollars. Just doesn't happen with an Oliver.

My understanding is that the axles come prewired with the brakes. Like the smaller axles I assume that the brake wires are run inside. During my torque sessions underneath the trailer with the new springs I didn’t see any wires run along the outside. Mike

The price is what it is. The factory sets the price and the dealer’s sell based on the set price. I suppose some dealers might negotiate, but I suspect there’s not much wiggle room.

I'm shopping for a LE2. Any recommendation whether to buy direct from the factory or from a dealer? Are there pricing negotiations or does everyone pay the same price?

When getting the D52's does Alcan run the brake line in or along the outside of the axle? Do they use "high dollar" water proof connections? Do they check what wire gauge was used before connecting to the new 12" brakes? GJ

We have a Girard awning on the starboard side. We wanted something for the port side when we have the space and want the extra shade. The MoonShade XL works good for this, and it is sturdy and very well made. It is really just a lightweight tent awning, not like our heavy duty awning. The XL version is 9’ x 12’, and the longer side just covers both windows, providing shade in the bunk as well as the dinette. It’s expensive, but I bought it when it was a Kickstarter campaign for much less. I would not want to use it as the primary awning. https://moonfab.com/

Yep.

I assume those are these.... From their web sigte: "Ground planes are not required for this antenna to function properly making it ideal for fiberglass roof installations." And also F-150's with aluminum bodies I may add . GJ

These days, yes... I think they used to block transmission on anything over 10mph with the roam plan and you also needed a special dish. I have a friend with a mini mounted on top of his van and it works perfectly at highway speeds.

I remember long ago watching a YouTube, where they had a Starlink dish in the car propped up to the moon-roof and somehow it worked! Maybe they had the larger dish. After using our Mini for a year, I cannot see how that is possible. It's a bit touchy, requiring proper alignment pointing to the northern sky. That's why we have our Pepwave router with Parsec Husky cellular antenna installed in our TV. Chris uses her tablet often while I'm towing. We have our own Wi-Fi connection wherever we drive and on many "flatlands" and most all Interstate Highways, we are connected. No campground or coffee shop Wi-Fi connections for us! Then we use our Starlink only when cell reception is weak, like for example, Burro Creek Campground sitting at the bottom of a DEEP canyon! There's no cell signal, no TV reception, no radio at all, and that's where Starlink truly shines! 😎

I've had this mod down at the bottom of my Oliver to-do list, and it's hard to imagine, but I'm down to the bottom! 🤣 We have the older glass LED lights that are 3 1/8"dia. The glare from the cabin lights is BRIGHT! And I certainly agree white PVC is the way to go, not black ABS for us and not something painted, extra work and would not age well. Long search looking at all the 3-4" PVC parts at Lowes and Depot and I found these 4" drain covers (see pic). With a 3 1/2" hole saw I cut the center out of one (not easy to keep the drill centered, use patience with the drill clutch on). It looks to be a good fit and these were only $3.60 ea at The Home Depot. They are 1 3/4" deep (off the ceiling). If you look at what @Fritz did above, he used VHB tape to mount his. I'm mounting at least 6 for Cabin and Dinette lights or a total of 12 to do all cabin lights. Getting 2-sided tape all around the perimeter of so many light shades would be a pain and if you don't seal the full perimeter light will come through the cracks. I wish 3M made a 1/4" round bead of VHB, but working flat tape around a perimeter is not fun. After cutting these parts, there is an 1/2" flat along the perimeter, a very good surface for sealing. I'm looking for suggestions for a proper sealant. It should bond to PVC to fiberglass, but not permanently! Something that could be removed with a solvent if necessary, and something that would not damage fiberglass. I know I don't want a silicone-based product (wish silicone caulk was never used on our fiberglass). Besides sealants that come in caulk tubes, or brush on, are there any thin bead sealants packaged like butyl tape? Would some brand of butyl hold these light shades? Any ideas? Thank you.

Just for grins question as most of my miles are solo: But, could a passanger successfully use the internet while traveling in the flatlands? GJ