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Here's recent photos taken at Fall Creek Falls SP TN. Like to hike to waterfalls, we had a fine time at this State Park: Out standing in it's field:

While I do not tow with an F-150, I had the same problem with my Audi Q7. Internet research says that, yes, it is is the LED lights not pulling enough current, and that this is common with European cars. I am surprised that it came up on an F-150, especially suddenly. My solution was a CURT 57003 7-Way RV Blade LED Electrical Adapter. It solved my Trailer Lights Disconnected error message. I later found a smaller version, the Tow Ready 20142 7-Way Flat Pin to 7-Flat Adapter.

dear oliver owners my name is dan...I live in Minnetonka mn...and plan on retiring in an oliver...in 5yrs. chasing the sun in my short pantz. I expect to "boondock" as much as possible... and give it a whirl for about 10yrs. have been "snooping" this site for a while now... just wanted to let you all know...I was here.! take care and do well. 10-q dan

Hi all... Checking in to see if anybody uses packing cubes to help organize their Ollie. If so, do you like them? As an experiment I purchased 1 medium-sized packing cube from Amazon.com to see how much it could easily hold. The cube I got, fully packed, measures 14"x 9.5" with a 4" depth. Most medium cubes I found on Amazon were 3" deep so clothing amount could vary. I packed firmly but not so tight to have a wrinkled mess and found the cube held the following: 4 - Men's x-large T-shirts (I tried rolling them but found folding allowed me 1 more shirt) 3 - lightweight socks 1 - heavyweight sock 4 - boxer underwear 1 - nylon sport short Hopefully the pack will fit nicely into an upper cabinet. Kathy

Is anyone else having an issue with the Furnace NOISE LEVEL? We just got back from the New Hampshire Spring Fling and found that the furnace has developed a rather nasty knocking sound. It sounds like the fan / wheel is hitting the housing. It's loudest under load and pushing on the side of the furnace will lessen the noise. Here are some videos of the problem: (you might need to copy and paste the URL) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPu6qkB3E54 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66qzXefR4R8 Has anyone else had or solved this problem? Does anyone know how to remove the Furnace? It looks like if you pop the rivits on the exhaust and then remove the screws that mount the unit to the frame you would be able to lift it out. Of course you still need to disconnect power and propane. Any help would be much appreciated. Scotty Flying Sea Turtle - Hull # 145

Bill, great photos! This park is on our list for our next visit to Tennessee. Mike

In the bed of the truck I carry two larger "zero gravity" chairs and two small camp chairs, a camp table, Weber charcoal grill, Weber propane grill, charcoal, chocks and blocks and on long trips or boondock trips a generator and 20lb propane tank (we have all that on this current trip). The closet is for hang up clothes, shoes, hamper, and miscellaneous things (first aid kit, small hand vac, tool kit, etc). The back overhead (attic) is for some of my clothes and then containers with DVD's, spare parts (fuses, hose gaskets, on command tape, etc). The back two side overheads are for clothes. The two over the kitchen for kitchen things. The two over the dinette for some bathroom items, a toaster and a small coffee maker (Nespresso Pixie). In the basement I carry water hoses and accessories (Y spitter, pressure regulator, nozzle) power cables, 50a adapter, 20a adapter, surge protector, toilet additives in a bucket (detergent, water softener). Mike

Sounded like good logic to me, so you got me out of the CLAM to see why not. The hook itself on the end seems to be a good conductor but the links are not.

This is the single best accessory I've seen on this forum, got one shortly after it was mentioned and it went up about a month ago and hasn't come down yet, sitting in it now actually. Thanks to whomever first brought it up.

With the toaster oven, just make sure that it is small enough to fit in the overhead bins and that its wattage is not too high for the inverter. I've found that some foods (like pizza and toast) are simply better using the toaster oven versus the microwave.

Good point Mike. The AS may have larger overheads but the rear overhead in the Ollie should accommodate several packed cubes.

Wow! Get ready for a bunch of different ideas. Certainly you can go to the extreme and basically "do a Scubarx". Steve and Tali have twin bed risers for more storage space inside and has constructed a really neat storage box that fits on the rear of his Ollie. I do have a "storage tube" fitted to the frame near the rear of mine. I place a small rug and a black water 10 foot extension (that I never used) in this tube. Obviously, anything that hangs down under your camper is subject to all kinds of hazards, so, nothing of importance goes in there. My fishing rods always get a prime storage spot - either in the back seat of my truck or in the closet. Black water items go in the storage area behind the rear bumper. Chairs go in the closet. Clam shelter goes in the closet. Kitchen items - pots and pans go in the two center drawers of my Elite II due to the height. Eating utensils go in the small drawer right in front of the sink (models prior to the 2017's have an obvious silverware drawer in this location). Junk drawer is bottom on the right and cooking utensils are in the top right. That leaves the bottom left for garbage bags, table linens, and other "stuff". Other items like tool bag, electric cube heater, collapsible table, go on the closet floor and storage bins with things that don't fit in the "junk drawer" go on the shelves of the closet. I do carry a shower tent and solar shower which I store in the area under the streetside bed. A toaster oven is carried above the dinette while all other "kitchen" items are in the storage areas above the microwave and cooktop . Hope this helps! Bill

Yep, taxes, title, and registration in Illinois cost over $3600.00. One of the poorest states in the US. And insurance for one year was $445.00 I can really appreciate you folks who are using your trailers a lot of the time. I'm not getting my money's worth right now. Wife still working, but the time is coming when I hope to be on the road much more. BTW it's a good idea to tell your insurance company you are getting a new travel trailer before you go to pick it up or even get the title info from Oliver and have your trailer insured BEFORE you pick it up as it's a Tennessee state law that you cannot leave the company lot without your trailer being insured. Remember, you can put your trailer or extra cars in storage if you will not be using them for 30 consecutive days. I have two cars in storage now, meaning I'm not paying insurance on them except comprehensive. Collision, hospitalization and liability insurance are not being charged and they are the expensive ones.

To all the Oliver owners, we have added a form on our website for you to submit a testimonial or review of Oliver Travel Trailers. We would love to hear your comments about our trailers and company! We would like to use real comments from our owners in some of our marketing efforts. http://olivertraveltrailers.com/submit-oliver-testimonial/ Thanks for your help!

Not having a 150, I will not speak to their electronics, but having the same issue and correcting it 9000 miles ago, I will speak to the ground. This is especially the case if your using an Andersen, the sleeve in it seperates the metal parts and causes an intermittent ground situation, one of the things to pay attention to is timing, when you crest a rise or are in a down hill situation and there is a negative pressure situation on the coupler. The easiest test for this fix is about $8 in parts from Home Depot, two alligator clips and a piece of wire 6', clip one end to the hitch frame on the truck and the other to the bottom of the bulldog where it curves together and there's a gap. This is how mine has been since last June and I've never had another problem. When not towing it's just wrapped around and clipped to back to the bumper. Oh, the first 1200 miles of towing I never had a problem, it was a naked hitch, then I found I need a WDH and got the Andersen. Let us know.

We also live in Texas. After picking up in Tennessee we got home before our 30 Day Tennessee temporary tag ran out and registered in Texas, including sales tax. No property tax. You do need a state safety inspection, which didn't amount to much - just checking the lights. Mike

Ok I will put in my 2 cents. We have had our Oliver for over 2 years now and been across the US several times and from Florida to Alaska this past summer and have never placed my Oliver in such a way that my Doors or anything becomes stressed or stuck. When I level the trailer I use either 2 x 8 ramps or sometimes the leveling stackable blocks being described in the post. The rear jacks I only those to stabilize the Trailer when parked in a site and I do place blocks under them for two reasons one to stop sinking into soft or wet ground and second to shorten the distance they travel. We bought the rubber horse stall matting they use in stables from Tractor Supply by the foot and cut it into squares to use under the blocks for on uneven or rocky ground, stays better and saves the plastic blocks. I from day one have worked to not tork or twist my frame to any measure. I just replaced my bearings and put the new Dexter easy flex equalizer on the axles and used a floor jack at the steel section at the wheels to lift the trailer and the jack stands under the wheel bracket while working on it. The Hydralic jacks on the Oliver were my back up safety not my primary lift. Will the rear jacks lift the trailer.... Yes they will, would i use them to level the trailer maybe on a minor off level campsite but I just check the bubble when I pull in and just use the blocks on the wheels an extra 5 minutes to set up. I will even use my blocks in a overnight in a Walmart, Cabela's where ever for the betterment of the Frig and my wife not rolling out of bed. Thanks Gary