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This seems be a old problem with a variety of solutions. Search for “porch light” from the forums page and you will find several posts on this subject. Dave Phelps post “Porch Light reseal and silicone removal” is a very thorough how to guide on correcting this issue. I also had this problem as well as a water leak at the dinette window. The leak was my motivation to tackle the problem. I have Hull #193 and my lights are different than Dave’s, but the solution is the same. I removed the light fixture above the dinette window and found the fixture is made by an American company named ITC. I thought that’s cool, I’ll just send them an email requesting help with this issue. I think that was in January and I am still waiting for a reply. Not being Mr. Patience’s, the next day I moved on using some of Dave’s procedure. I did not have to remove any silicone because none is used with the ITC fixtures. I removed the gasket and used butyl tape between the light fixture and the hull instead. I then used Starbrite marine silicone to seal the screw holes and the perimeter of the fixture. After several rains, there hasn’t been any streaks or leaks and I have removed the gaskets from the remaining fixtures and now I can concentrate on cleaning up bird poop? Mike

Another owner told me about “Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure”. This a sealer that is as thin as water and able to wick into very small cracks. If you clean the gasket edge and apply the sealer with a small artist brush the streaking will stop. It’s about the color of milk but dries clear. I have applied the sealer a couple of times over the past year. Because water naturally drips around the light fixture edges, you’ll still have some dirt streaks that can be seen but these wash off much easier.

http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/rubber-gaskets-around-porch-lights/ Lots of discussion about this at the link above. Mike

Townesw - Yes.

Yes, the search functions on this forum are severely lacking, something I have posted about on several occasions... I think this is the thread that Bill was referring to: http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/oliver-tool-kit/

I'm probably guilty of carrying too many tools, so my list would be pretty long. But some of the trailer specific non-obvious ones that I can think of off the top of my head would be a rubber mallet for setting and removing wheel chocks, a dedicated wrench for tightening hoses (for convenience), and a multimeter to track down any electrical gremlins. One thing I don't carry but need to put together is a pex repair kit.

I too used "serious shine" when I first got my Ollie. Its OK stuff but virtually any of the auto detailers are just as good and even easier to mist on and wipe off. However, to make it even easier there is an interior auto detailer available: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G16216-Ultimate-Interior-Detailer/dp/B00G49DUJY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522243694&sr=8-4&keywords=interior+detailer This stuff can be used on everything including glass. Bill

Ours is fairly new (Feb delivery) so not a lot of experience but we did ask a lot of questions at the plant and here on the forum. We have been washing with a turtle wash/wax solutions when dirty and after the last wash I put the first coat of wax on it. Based on recommendations I plan to do at least yearly but possibly two times a year. We went to a West Marine and asked for recommendations and this is the product that they told us was best/most popular: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSZRRWU/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER It goes on as a liquid with a microfiber towel and is polished off before it turns to haze....not terribly difficult to do but somewhat time consuming. Like other have suggested I think the key is to stay on top of the finish and not let it get oxidized. We also are using the serious shine that they were using at the plant for the inside.

John, My trailer has the telescoping tongue, so it's a simple matter of pulling out the cross bolt, behind the coupler,and extending the tongue to where you want it. I don't remember how far it can be extended. Does yours have this telescoping tongue? Later models did away with this telescoping feature, and so to answer your question with respect to those, no. The bolts are only 2" from the end of the aluminum box that mounts the coupler, so it can't be moved forward and the coupler itself is already at a leverage disadvantage, so it's bolts, (the coupler bolts) should not, or could not, be moved 3" farther back to move it forward.. There is so much strain at that location that sleeves were installed by Oliver to help distribute the load from the coupler bolts to the aluminum box tube. These sleeves are 7/16" ID, about 3/4" OD and just under 3" long. They resist the pinching load from the coupler bolts and distribute the towing forces to 3/4" holes in the box tongue. I found the 7/16" holes in the coupler were slightly elongated from the strain, but the tongue was fine. The coupler bolt nuts had run out of threads and bottomed before adequately pinching the coupler against the tongue and it's sleeves, so the bolts were in pure shear and able to move slightly. The fix for this was to add a grade 8, 7/16" fender washer on each side of the coupler, on each bolt. Now it sucks up nice and tight.

We have posted an update on the rally this week. Please visit the “ events” tab on the Forum front page. Our attendee numbers have increased, the number of vendors confirming they will attend has increased and our menu is being prepared. We have built in lots of free playtime so enjoy the rally ! Coy Gayle Hardrock

Update: I towed about 800 more miles since posting. The wear on the ball seems to have stabilized (as shown in the first pictures). I am going to live with it for now. I am still unhappy but if needed I will get a new 2 5/16 replacement coupler and matching Anderson ball. John Davies Spokane WA

We wash the Oliver whenever it's dirty, as dirt is damaging. Twice a year, minimum, often three, we wax with 3m Marine wax, the same paste wax we use on our 40 year old sailboat. I also wax the interior fiberglass every year, or two. Makes indoor cleanup easier. Our trailer is in the sun, 24/7/365. And it's nine years old... Marine grade gelcoat is tough, but extra uv protection from a quality wax is important. Both the Oliver, and the boat, still shine. don't let the surface get oxidized from the sun by skipping wax cycles. You'll regret it Lately, our neighbors have been investing in the ceramic coatings for their boats. One neighbor paid $1200 for a 17 ft boat.... We'll see how it holds up. Sherry

Having lived in Sierra Vista I know what you're dealing with sun-wise. I bought an extendable pole with a microfiber blade at Lowes. I use regular car wash and a ladder with my pole to reach to top. I wash at the end of each trip. I haven't waxed yet, but just got a bottle of Rejexx off of Amazon based on recommendations from a few members of this forum. When we get back from our New Mexico trip at the end of the month I'm going to wash and wax. Will let you know how it goes. Mike