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This is a great reference. http://www.mrheater.com/downloads/dl/file/id/134/mr_heater_hfa_guide_2015.pdf John Davies Spokane WA

It didn't take us long to see the benefit of having a screen door handle but I couldn't bring myself to drill holes in my screen door so I made these plates to install the handle without drilling. I used 1/8 inch X 1 inch aluminum and drilled and tapped for #8-32 X 3/8 SS screws. The plates "rotate" into place with the hook at the bottom fitting into the cross bar of the door to keep the assembly from sliding up in the door channel. I shortened the handle tube to 19-13/16 inches, slid the end caps on and attached the assembly to the adapter plates. [attachment file=127613] I know, a lot of trouble to go to when I could have just drilled the holes and been done with it but I think it makes for a cleaner installation.

There are (2) each #10-32 acorn nuts, #10 split lockwashers and M5 flat washers holding the plastic "motor sleeve" on the front jack on (2) #10-32 threaded studs. The problem with this is that you can't tighten these nuts against anything solid to make the lockwashers work well. Remove the motor sleeve and you will see what I mean. One of my acorn nuts was missing after pulling the trailer 132 miles home from the factory. I replaced these acorn nuts and lockwashers with #10-32 nyloc nuts. Don't over tighten these nuts or you may break the plastic motor sleeve. Just run them in until you can't move the motor sleeve up or down anymore.

I hope this isn't a repost. The crank to manually operate the front jack is too short to use with the propane tank cover in place. A regular 3/8 inch drive ratchet extension turned around works as an extension for the manual crank. A 6 inch extension will work but a longer one will allow the crank to clear the propane cover.

It's easier to remove and install the spare tire cover if you stick something about 2-1/2 inches long in the spot where we used to put our gas cap (while filling up) when the gas fill tube was located under the car's license plate (years ago).

John: Since I used a 3/4" SS flat washer under the 10-32 SS nut with nylon; I also only ran the nuts up evenly until one thread showed through the nylon. There was no deflection of the plastic cover using this method. The flat washer I use was thinner than the original flat washer. I agree with you that the original flat washer, lock ring and nut could be just ran up into the cover's hole; that is why I used a larger flat washer.

I checked mine and they were there, but very loose. I switched to 10/32 nylocks, but did NOT use large flat washers. I used the existing small flat and lock washers instead. The hardware fits into a deep recess, and I am not sure there is enough thread extension to get full nut engagement when using a larger washer, without over-stressing the plastic. There is a thick rubber gasket at the top and it is hard to tell when the cover is fully seated. Old hardware on the left, new on the right. The screw is to show the thread size of the motor studs: You can see that the nut disappears into the hole without spacing it out somehow: I ran the nuts down evenly until one thread showed through the nylon: I don't know how tough the plastic cover is, but it feels flimsey. Be careful. John Davies Spokane WA

This is what was in ours - Moen Brantford

I know some will disagree with me on this but this is what works for me. I am on my 4th Dill system on the Oliver. This time I just purchased replacement sensors and stems as I kept my head unit from the system on our Escape. I have never added one to the spare and I don't rotate the spare to the ground. I have never found a need to rotate trailer tires. On a properly set up trailer they should all wear the same. There are no driving wheels or turning wheels on a trailer. I keep my spare at 80 psi and since I run my tires at 60-65 psi, I only need to check it once a year. I am from the school that unless you put on lots and lots of miles you will not wear out trailer tires. They will usually age out first. I replace all my tires on a 5 year cycle. I have been using the Dill for 11 years and never had a problem so I am very comfortable with their warranty. Here is the proper page for the Dill trailer systems. http://dillaircontrols.com/dill/category/products/tpms/trailer-tpms/ More info http://www.trailertpms.com/home.html The one for 4 tires is the 1504-416 and I purchased it from Tire Rack. The head unit will monitor up to 10 tires depending on how you program it. Just buy extra sensors. https://www.tirerack.com/tpms/detail.jsp?gclid=Cj0KCQjwnqzWBRC_ARIsABSMVTM9ccVW2wjNOaeifeSdQNCVQOhltY4JXiwVrpbRJmdkv0GNLkTfpeQaAnACEALw_wcB&ID=2179&cat=Aftermarket+Systems&affiliate=HM5&ef_id=Wq-U_QAAAMrVVkN7:20180409131828:s Replacement parts https://tires.tirerack.com/tires/Dill%20Tpms

Not sure what that tread size is but I've used McGard outboard motor locks for similar applications. You might be able to use one as either a jam, or replacement for the hand nut. There are a number of tread options: https://shop.mcgard.com/products/marine/outboard-motor-locks

I'll buy a set.

Just got an email from Heather at Oliver with an update on this year's Owner's Rally. Included is a link which shows the agenda or simply click on the link below: http://olivertraveltrailers.com/email/2018-Oliver-Rally-Agenda.pdf Now, those of us that are attending can start to plan our afternoons of golf, tennis, fishing, zip lining, visiting, drinking, etc. Bill

Why make removing the spare tire cover easier? I enjoy the heck out of getting my hand slapped by that overgrown mouse trap. Bill

Bill - I'm not sure about "a cleaner installation", but, I would think that it is a bit stronger. Those four small screws holding the handle on in the typical installation are screwed into such thin aluminum. I always try to remember to tell "guests" to not put too much pressure on that screen door handle - the aluminum door simply is not strong enough to handle any real weight. At least your design helps spread any weight over a larger area. Besides, it is simply cool. Bill

Nicely done.

Great idea. I'll bet you could sell some of these at the rally. I for one would be interested. Thanks for sharing.

I checked ours this morning and the same acorn nut was missing as in your picture. I replaced them with a 3/4" SS flat washer and 10-32 SS nut with nylon insert, this should take care of the issue. Thanks for the information.

Inserted into content: It took a couple of tries but this worked. I had to edit the picture but it posted well. Thanks again John, Bill

I don’t resize at all, but I do always edit and possibly crop when I save a pic. John Davies Spokane WA

Test from my iPhone 6S (Verizon). Copied from my Photo Library. EDIT -Looks OK, is your phone software up to date, maybe reboot it.... Note that your THUMBNAILS will appear trimmed, but not distorted, at the bottom of the post. Are your actual pics also squashed? Post one here please. Select “Insert into content”. I agree it is a real pain to use a phone, my iPad Mini 4 is bad, but not nearly that horrible. Have you thought about buying a low end iPad Mini , and using your phone as a hotspot for Internet? Ipads make great navigation aids when in the boonies, with appropriate map software. The Retina display on the newer iPads is stunning, and you can get an iPad starting at $329 and a Mini 4 at $399. Plus they are great for watching downloaded Netflix or Prime movies. John Davies Spokane WA

I'll have to do that. John, if you're adding extra ports, you might think about placing one in the hidden compartment. Oliver added one for us and it's great for charging iPads, laptop, etc. while stored out of sight.

Overland - I put a dot of black paint on my green lights. Bill

Townesw - Have you tried calling Oliver "parts" at 1-866-205-2621? Bill

Townesw - Hopefully someone with direct access and experience with an iPhone will chime in here shortly. Obviously you can always download your pictures to a computer and then to the Forum, but I don't think that is what you are trying to do. Even with my Android phone I usually go the computer route as opposed to direct - hate typing on those small keyboards. Bill

I agree with Randy. Right now we are at Gouldings, a very nice but very expensive commercial RV park that is very close to Monument Valley. A few days ago we camped in Valley of the Gods, which was the nicest campsite I can remember. BLM land, so free. Our site was HERE, quite close to Randy's site. I will post some pictures when I get home.

I preferred Valley of the Gods, which is just down the street from Monument Valley. My profile boondocking photo was taken HERE This spot is close/on to the road, but only two cars came by in the few days I was there, there are others that are completely away from the drive area.

Steve & I are up for hiking Sat &/or Sun. Steve can go for the distance whereas I poop-out on any trail that has a lot of uphills. I do do it but complain the entire way. :)