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We stayed at Davy Crockett 2 nights. Yes pickup was at new sales Center but it will be 2 more weeks before they complete remodeling. Pickup was wonderful and informative but they didn't have electricity in delivery area yet, at least where we were. Also if you are seeing this we just got our name in forum updated to our Ollie hull name Pilots Lounge. N0673. Hope to meet other Ollie Owners in our adventures.

Let’s try a video. This is before replacing the PD converter module. IMG_1938.MOV

We found a cutting board will fit on the drawer, which adds some counter space. Also gives a space to put a hot pot that won't burn a fiberglass counter

Thanks for the offer of trays. A Milk crate and Rubbermaid tote ( probably from Renys) are part of the set up. I built a rig to wrap 50’ of electrical cord around that will keep it under control with a compartment for misc small electrical stuff.. I’ll probably build a box for the tools I want stowed in that area as it enables me to get it exactly the size I’m looking for.. it’s all pretty prototypical, we’ll see what works and what doesn’t and fine tune things after the first road trip.. You’re right about the anticipation.. we’ve been having a ball getting ready ever since we placed our order..

My water heater quit working on gas a couple of days after delivery. I did some basic troubleshooting and determined after ten minutes that the ignitor was not firing. The system would cycle on and off three times, then lock out with a solid red light. The overtemp switches were not tripped, and there was gas, which I proved by carefully sticking a long camp stove lighter in the burner hole. I clicked the lighter and the flame POPPED and whooshed out and burned all the hair off the back of my hand. Check, there is gas! Note to self: do not do this again... I called Jason at Oliver Service and asked if he could send me a replacement board so I could install it myself. He told me that they do not warranty the appliances and I would have to take it to an RV dealer for repair. Fine.... I found a new OEM module on Amazon for $79, and also a much better aftermarket one for about the same price, but it would require a new plastic cover. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0002MG2IK/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IY2Y0Y0X7RVZF&colid=1X5H11EH41351 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B007HRVXY6/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3LZPCEN833TPC&colid=1X5H11EH41351 Since it was going to be a warranty repair, and I am a confirmed cheapskate, I scheduled an appointment at a local shop in Spokane. They told me it would be three weeks before they could see me, and that they stocked a lot of boards for the Suburban heaters, so most likely they could fix it while I waited. I told them that I would be surprised if the job took more than fifteen minutes, and access to it was great. Three weeks later I showed up, checked in, watched with concern as they took Mouse away, and then I waited. Half an hour later I was called into the office. "The board is bad." ME: "Right, I knew that and I told your tech." "In order to do this under warranty we have to order a replacement board from Suburban, and it will take two to six weeks to get here, do you need the water heater to work before then?" ME: silence, counting to ten very slowly. "Sir?" ME: "I do need it to work on propane. Is there an alternative?" "We can install an aftermarket Dinosaur Electronics board, it is a much better part and has a five year warranty, and we have plenty of those in stock since the Suburban boards fail so often." ME: Sinking heart. "How much would that cost?" "The board is $129 and the cover is $10, and it will be $279 total with labor." ME: "I wish this was mentioned when I talked three weeks ago. Just put it back together and I'll order the part from Amazon and fix the heater in two days." "OK, fine, that will be $50 plus tax for the diagnosis." As I left, the tech who did the work told me quietly, "I left your old board on the floor at the entry, and I also left a used one that was in our junk box. We strip stuff like that off old water heaters when we scrap them. It will probably work fine for years. They sure did build your trailer nice!" I was floored and relieved, and my faith in mankind got a very small boost. I thanked him and left with Mouse, feeling a lot better. I got home, plugged in the board and the heater fired right up. Woohoo! My old (brand new) board that failed (water pump is to the left): The underside, showing the bottom of the fried resistor. The white foam strip goes on the PC board and keeps it off the mounting surface (the water pump and manifold assembly plate). If I had the notion, I could have replaced that resistor for less than a buck.... I don't know how I should feel about the dealer, their parts prices are _over_ MSRP and they sure try to screw you, but then the tech went way out of his way to make things right. He could have got into trouble with his boss, too. Moral of story: unless it is an expensive repair or you can live without a part for a long time, just fix it yourself or have a buddy do it for you. I hope to never go back to a dealer, ever. There is no way I was going to leave Mouse there, and then have everybody start crawling around inside, looking. John Davies Spokane WA

Picked up our Ollie Thursday and enjoyed a few days at Davy Crockett. Met another Ollie couple that was just driving through (I don't remember their hull number --- I think 256) It was cool and nice seeing and talking with them --- Considering there are only 673 Olivers out in the world.

To the best of my knowledge, there has never been a "standard equipment" inverter. However, I do believe at one time you could order just an inverter, there as a choice of 600 watt and 1000 watt (I think). It was so much simpler when we bought Hull # 050, there was no option list. As a consequence, I had to install all the stuff that are options now. One thing we do have (as a holdover from our earlier Oliver) is a motorized RV Power Cord Reel. It has never been offered as an option.

Yes, but remembering makes retirement look so much better 😎

Try searching for the word skiing. Then sort through the 27 responses for member DonnaDuane. Send him a PM and he might be able to help with your request. Mossey

We've been to over 250 of the National Park units from every state including Alaska. I've sometimes had to have help (Chiricahua National Monument) but have never been unable to get into a campsite with our LEII (2014 Hull # 050). From 2008 to 2013 we had one of the original Elites (Hull # 026). From a height standpoint, the LEII will be a better fit for you tall folks. From our experiences, the Elite was a little small for two adults and three dogs, the largest one at about 100 pounds.

And my wife talks about the tools I buy? 😄

Don't forget the folding dish rack, that will fit in a drawer.

Well, that video seems to be exactly the problem the op described. Thank you!

Remove the converter front panel and snap a picture of the number located where the red arrow is pointed in the following picture Have that number ready and call Progressive Dynamics. Maybe they’ll send you a replacement.

Call Jason in service, Oliver special orders these covers. I lost one last trip and Jason sent me a new one. Not expensive, something like $5. Mike

😄 well, Dad always said, if you don't believe in yourself, nobody else will.

Calling a gas powered generator an inverter is confusing at best and is simply incorrect. Many cheap generators have no inverter at all. The better ones are “inverter equipped” to provide a clean non-ripple AC power which is safe for electronics. IMHO everybody should just call it a generator, and save the term inverter for your onboard hard-wired one, or a small portable one. You could accurately call it an inverter generator, but normally that full phrase isn’t used except maybe in technical articles. John Davies Spokane WA

This happens occasionally on my home electronic locks. Usually, because the door wasn't completely closed when the lock was engaged. Hope you get it resolved.

That is good to know. And, this happens more and more to me. My wife uses technical terms like “thingy” and uses her hands to show motion, direction and shape. Then, like magic, I remember the step I left out.

Hmmm. . . . .762 . . . . . . we pick up our Elite II on December 7 . . . . . . . maybe it will be #777 . . . . . . should entitle us to a jackpot . . . . . . maybe a free Oliver Travel Trailer? 🎰

We have found, by adding the vent high in the bathroom wall, that we were able to relieve a lot of the negative pressure in the bathroom. It works extremely well when the bathroom door is closed. This allows the air to return to the return vent easier. By adjusting the heat vent under the bed to about half closed, the kitchen one about the same and the bath vent full open we got the best results. We also found by straightening out the duct in the basement, from the heater, we eliminated some of the air restrictions and turbulence. The air seems to flow better. As the heat loss from the duct seems to be what keeps the tank space warmer as well as the return vent air we didn't want to insulate. What might help a lot is to close off those hull drain holes, which I am sure allows a lot of cold air intrusions and heat loss. As for the closet? I have noticed how 'cool' it gets, but can't find a reason to waste heat on that static space. Cloths and towels can be taken out a few minutes before?

Yes, for 2021. I will be talking with my sales rep today or tomorrow; I will get more details. Update: Both the powered standard awning and powered pro awning are made by Girard. The standard has vinyl fabric (grey), LED lights, manual override with crank and power switch inside the trailer. The the Pro upgrade is canvas fabric, has LED lights, manual override with crank wind sensor, and manual override with crank. I asked, since they are legless awnings, if there was a way to tilt them slightly so moisture can run off. No adjustment needed; they are designed to be installed slightly lower on one side so they naturally shed water, though not intended for heaving rain or snow. I also asked if either could be used entirely with manual crank. The answer was that the crank/manual operation is only for emergency use, when power is not available, or in the case of motor failure. I asked if the pro awning, with remote, could also be powered from a switch in the trailer (in the even the remote fails or gets lost). I did not get a for certain answer, but since we are opting for the standard non-remote awning, I didn't request that info. Forgot to ask the model numbers.

Just wondering if you have thought about hanging a monitor under the attic like the television and using a Lagun table as a laptop desk? Seating could be a challenge depending on how long you had to work each day. Something like a bar stool in the aisle might work. As you can see from my pre-retirement workstation, I did like a lot of monitor real estate. Mossey

This is an easy and rewarding mod, and a lot of fun. I wanted to add some brightness to my new rear cargo rack and a couple of other places, and some non-skid material near the emergency exit. That last area should have tape there from the factory. Exiting out through the window, across the spare tire and any bikes or other cargo is risky enough, and then you have to step across a possibly wet and slippery bumper. Ouch... There are endless sources of inexpensive low-grade reflective tape but I chose the real deal, the commercial 3M "Conspicuity Tape" that is used on semi truck trailers. It is available locally but you probably have to buy it in 150 ft rolls for up to $250! Here you can get various widths in smaller lengths at a about a buck per foot. If applied properly it has a ten year life expectancy. I bought 15 ft of red and yellow in the 1" width. Shipping was $7.53. You should buy the correct width that is "edge sealed" ... don't buy a wider strip thinking you can cut it lengthwise since the cut will allow dirt into the cells of the material. Sealed edges prevent that, you only get some dirt in your cut ends. https://www.identi-tape.com/3M-conspicuity.htm [attachment file=3M Conspicuity Tape Instructioins.pdf] A smooth and clean surface is important. I sanded lightly with 360 grit sandpaper and cleaned with 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner. Good stuff. I used regular 2" Gorilla black non-skid tape from Home Depot for the tops of the surfaces in back. Round the corners a little so the patches look neat and there is less likelihood of them lifting. I used a fresh clean roll of 1" masking tape to make guide lines. Don't use an old roll with dirty edges since it can contaminate the area with oils. Rollers are helpful but not necessary. Just make sure the colored and black tape is really pushed down hard. Here are ambient and flash pics of the areas I taped. Notice that the teeny round factory installed reflectors are quite bright, but they are very low down and possibly obscured by a rack or bikes. The tail lights don't reflect much at all. I was surprised by that. If you use a pressure washer be really careful around the tape, it is rated for 1200 psi at a foot distance. Don't get too close. I'll add some outside and night time pics later. I took my time and it was done in about 90 minutes. It was fun. Highly recommended! John Davies Spokane WA 3M-Conspicuity-Tape-Instructioins.pdf

Problems are problems and "life happens" - particularly with all things man made, but, you just got to LOVE that bottom line. Bill

Thanks for the info. We have seriously considered adding one to our unit, but assumed there was a viable key override option to the lock. Hopefully, if you ever hear about the research outcome, that you share with us. Maybe the KISS principle is the best solution here...