Leaderboard

Just out of your picture at the top, there is a flex line between that tee fitting and the pump inlet strainer. Disconnect this line from the tee and check for a blockage in the end. It may be a ball of plastic shavings like this:

Interesting. Thank you for sharing. I got to test mine down to about 16 degrees on my way home from Hohenwald. We were very comfortable. I have noticed the heat "blast" issue with the vents though. My vent by the beds is uncomfortably hot, while the bathroom's tend to be enough only to break the chill factor out of the air. I still love my Ollie!

I own two Garmin GPS - one is 20 years old and I use it while driving a car in Europe- and the 890 which I used in our recent first trip. The 890 is a great unit, got me out of trouble three times especially in the Atlanta area and in construction sites great large screen. Never got lost -really - one time that we thought it betrayed our trust, we had missed a sign 10’ X 8’ which was our fault . It is especially useful when your gas tank is only 1/4 full, red light cameras, rail crossings, traffic delays, etc etc. it is regularly updated via WiFi . Fairly expensive but well worth the price.

This spring loaded one-way valve controls the grey tank ventilation. It is supposed to open under suction (like draining the tank) and close at other times (to prevent stinky odors). These are used in houses, and those are known to get plugged up. So you should perhaps check your Ollie vent every year or three.... especially if you are smelling the tank contents. You must remove the rear galley drawers - grab the two orange drawer thingies with your finger tips and squeeze them toward your palms, and lift the drawer up and out of the slides. The vent is right at the back upper corner: The little cap/ cover swivels around, you can pry it loose with your fingers to look inside. Push the plunger up and down a few times to make sure it isn't sticking. Here is what it is supposed to do: Here is an interesting comment from the Oatey FAQ about RV use: Q Is the Sure-vent approved for use in a RV? A Yes, with exceptions. When the RV is stationary, the Sure-Vent will properly vent the drains for the kitchen and bathroom. If the RV is in motion and depending on how the DWV system was assembled from the factory, positive pressure could stop the Sure-Vent from opening. I have noticed a very occasional stink when towing in especially challenging terrain - very steep grades, lots of increasing elevation change and lots of hairpin turns. I am not sure if the gases are coming out of this valve or out of the sink drain...? Or if that is even related. Amazon - Oatey 39012 1.5 in. NPT ABS in-Line Vent, Black FYI, my vent was not even visible, the sewer pipe assembly was hanging down unsupported, this thread might be worth looking at: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6721-how-to-secure-the-loose-grey-drain-vent-plumbing-under-the-galley/ At the very least, give the black pipe a shove to make sure it isn't flopping around, that motion can break glue joints. That is a whole lot of info about an obscure little device most people don't even know exists...:) I am not even sure if this is mentioned in the Owners documents. Can someone comment? John Davies Spokane WA

These drawers are not at all intuitive when it comes to taking them out of the galley cabinet. It is dead easy if you pretend that you are a simpleton and don't over think things... . Stand over the end of the open drawer, reach under the sides at the very front with both hands. Put your fingers underneath on the inner edge of the orange release thingies and squeeze, move your fingers toward your palms. The latches will release and you can lift the drawer up and out, away from the slides, which will probably spring back out of sight. That is the "self closing" feature at work. Here is what is going on: The drawer is held to the latch assembly by two TINY SHORT screws. They are known to strip out the soft wood. Sometimes you will find the drawer lying up by the bathroom door with spatulas and other stuff scattered everywhere. Tighten them gently, they will move! If they are stripped, install longer ones. FYI this is a six year old drawer, Oliver may have altered these parts. For example, mine don't have the inner safety latches. Note that you might want to wear disposable gloves. EDIT: one member installed 1” long screws, driven into new holes at an angle, and found that to be a very solid way to do this. Here is the end of the slide, showing the opening that catches the latch. THIS IS SO VERY COOL! I just discovered it after all these years.... On the bottom of each slide, about 5 inches in from the end, is a tiny pin that sticks down. When reinstalling the drawer, you can use it to pull the slide outwards until it clicks into the latch. It keeps your fingers away from the grease too. Finally, you can flip each drawer and lay a thin bead of wood glue around the joint between the bottom and the sides and let it sit overnight. It will dry almost clear, so don't worry about minor mistakes. Plus nobody but you will ever know. I do not recommend gluing the inside of the drawers, that will show and it also has some sort of protective clear coat, so the glue might not stick. This thread is very much related: ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2151-how-to-galley-drawer-travel-straps/ John Davies Spokane WA

Spike installed a 9.5 btu in his elite 2. Here is some info that Spike relayed to me. unit: 9.5 • Input needed for cooling: 1370 W • Rated current for cooling: 12.6 A • Maximum power input: 1590 W • Maximum current: 14.6 A unit: 13.5 • Input needed for cooling: 1300W • Rated current for cooling: 12Amp • Maximum power input: 1550W • Maximum current: 14Amp So there's very little difference between the two units as far as power consumed to run them but you would be giving up the heat pump feature that the 13.5 has. When I tested my 13.5 for amp draw, Olivers monitor that is in the attic was reading 10 amps when the compressor was running.

Regarding pricing, I like to compare the number of hours or months of work required to buy something versus the price. For example in 1978 when I first started working a good wage was over $10k/year. 40 years later it was 60-70k/year. It seems the number of months required to buy a car is about the same now as then. Not a scientific study, just my observation.

Our delivery date is November 7 so we're looking at options now. I plan on getting the back-up camera option that can be on for rearview observation while driving. I did get a TST tpms to monitor the tire pressures and temperature. My cockpit might start looking like a Boeing 777 before long.

It seems Truma is developing a rating system for an RV's cold weather capabilities. It will be interesting to see how our trailers compare if/when they test an Oliver. Company wants to certify new RVs as good enough to live in during cold winter - RV Travel

Hull 1030 “Reset” Kevin and Rebecca Dunn will be there - site G4. Looking forward to meeting everyone.

Here is a new “roving” test from Outside magazine. https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-gear/camping/starlink-high-speed-internet-camping-test/ It sure sounds interesting but the subscription price would be hard for me to swallow. Will they offer a month by month subscription? My inReach one can be cancelled any time and started right back up again later, no worries. I still have issues with all those tens of thousands of darned satellites clogging up the sky. I think that is going to turn out badly. John Davies Spokane WA

I just saw the following notice for late model Ford truck and since a fair number of Oliver owners have this truck it might be of interest: Ford is also recalling 391,836 2021-2022 F-150, 2022 Ford Maverick, Expedition, Lincoln avigator, F-250, F-350, F-450 and F-550 vehicles because a towed trailer equipped with an electric or electric-over hydraulic brake system might not brake. Dealers will update the integrated trailer brake control module software. Ford has 67 reports of improper function potentially related to the issue but no reports of crashes or injuries related to the recall.

Hello John, You could bypass the pressure sensor to rule that out, but having a extra pump on hand is always a good idea, even if you find out the pressure sw. is the problem. Good luck, and let us know the outcome. Harold

OK - found it! HERE is the thread from January 24, 2021 where my install of the BC35 is mentioned along with the extension cables I made work by gently sanding the male ends of the extension cord. Can't remember if I mentioned it but besides the distance issue with transmitting the WiFi signal there is a "problem" with mounting the WiFi sending unit on the exterior of the Ollie - it is NOT waterproof! Bill

We've had both tankless and traditional tank water heaters, at home and in rvs. Currently have a Girard tankless in our Ollie. Tankless, like the Rinnai gas heater at home, are great when you have plentiful water and tankage or city sewer. If we had it to do over, I'd probably just get a traditional 6 gallon for the Ollie again, though. Why? Since we rarely camp with hookups, I think it's easier to conserve water knowing we only have only 6 gallons of hot available. I heat water for dishwashing in a tea kettle. For showers, the water heater could be brought to a comfortable temperature in a few minutes, and open the hot faucet only, which pretty much eliminated the occasional cold water sandwich of navy showers. And, at a powered campsite, the 6 gallon could be switched to electric to conserve lp. We have a portable Eccotemp tankless propane outdoor springwater shower on our camping property. I love that, too, as we have pretty much unlimited shower time after a long day, but I don't have to limit grey water outdoors, either. If you spend a lot of time at full hookup campsites, where you have city water and can leave the grey line open, the tankless would be great. Our Girard tankless has been pretty much maintenance and trouble free. But, so were our Suburban 6 gallons, except for winterizing and anode changes. There are tradeoffs with every decision.

I wanted to tell what finally happened to my water heater not working of LP. Working with Jason and them sending me replacement parts did not repair the problem, yes I was offered to take the trailer to a repair facility here in Ft. Worth, Texas, but opted to take a trip to Oliver and let them checkout the problem, we were ok with that as we would enjoy a trip that way again and we still had hot water with the electric mode. Upon Oliver inspection of the problem which took them about 15 minuets to repair the wiring harness in the upper rear storage space above the TV, a wire under the trim panel had come loose (or was never tighten probably) and just had to be reattached. All being said I'm glad I didn't take it to a local repair facility as they probably would have destroyed the trailer trying to find the disconnect wire, as they have no idea how Oliver's are put together, much less seen one before. trainman

When we purchased our 2019 Elite II we purchased a "Stripper Model", well as stripped as a base would come at that time. With three options, confection oven, outside LP connections, and a bike rack, our price $55,400. We got the standard interior, all white counter tops, standard seat covers and flooring (our color choice, 5-6 different ones to choose from), hey that all white interior is classy. We did not get any electronic upgrades and did not opt for the solar/battery upgrades either, one because we had no intention to "Boondock", and electronic change so fast that what was offered at that time would probably be out of date in a few years. With an iPhone with "Hot Spot" it will work well for us and it does. All being said, I think many over think there Oliver purchase just because it's only money and other do so I will too. Once again an Oliver comes will all the wiring in the factory wiring harness and any addons, or upgrades can be done to an Oliver with the latest and greatest upgrades offered at that time, so selling a "Stripper Model" is really not an out of date model to a prospective buyer to your used trailer, ie., does not effect your used price at all. I will admit, we did Boondock at Walmart twice in our travels and we survived well without all that added expense. trainman

I think you mean the Way Way Back Machine. Tell Mr. Peabody I said Hello.

Yes, but just one or two, as I recall. Oliver went into hiatus not long after its release, and it wasn't revived after production resumed. I think the owner of one posted here a few years ago. I'll see if I can find it.

The Way Back Machine first shows these spec sheets Feb 2nd 2009. Way Back Machine

It makes sense and is understandable if all of the vents are fully open more hot air comes out under the bunk. This vent is very close to the furnace. If I remember correctly the bunk vent connects directly to the furnace. You can moderate some by partly closing the vent. In our trailer the kitchen and bathroom and on the same duct. The bathroom vent is the furthest by far. We were in 5 to 7 degree temps in New Mexico a few months back. We did stay warm including the bathroom. We did use a lot of propane!!! We have read similar feedback about the bathroom being cooler. I suspect this is somewhat normal. This can be improved by adjusting the vent under the kitchen cabinets to partially closed. It seems like your system is working just fine. For others, If you're not getting heat into the bathroom or almost no air coming in it is possible that the air duct came lose. Start under the curbside bunk to track it down. Believe me, if it is lose, the best case scenario is that it came lose at the furnace. We tend to leave our bathroom door open when parked unless we are at the dinette or using the bathroom. We like as much air circulating as possible! Even in very cold temps we manually open the big fan just a little and partially open the bathroom vent. I know others prefer to crack open a window as the heat rises!

I thought I would follow-up on this after my install. Might be helpful if anyone else has a 2020-2022 GM vehicle with the advanced trailering feature and is considering this accessory... Everything went well and it was easier than expected. The "transparent trailer" view feature requires that the camera be placed within a certain zone at the back of the trailer and on the Oliver, the only plausible location is to mount on top of the spare tire cover. @Cameron shared a photo above of the camera installation that Oliver did for him, and it looks great. I decided I didn't want to drill holes in the spare tire cover as the camera is not compatable with non-GM trucks and I might move to another TV someday even though I love my Silverado 3.0L deisel. The other challenge is that you must still be able to remove the spare tire cover if needed, so I needed a plan for either easy removal of the camera or lots of slack cable inside. As it turns out, I have both. There is plenty of room to run the cable in the channel between the aluminum crossbars and the fiberglass under the trailer on the curb-side. This is where the propane line is located and runs all the way from front to back. The cable is well protected and tied in with several zipties along the way. The plug-end of the cable that plugs into the truck bumper port can be unscrewed to make it smaller and now it fits easily through the gap at the back of the diamondplate bumper and fiberglass to route the cable into the storage area in the bumper. Then it is easily routed into the chanel where the propane line is to run all the way to the front. To scure the camera, I elected to use this high-strength plastic Alfa-Lock Velcro product that utilizes 3M tape. This allows me to remove the camera if needed and replace it easily yet it has a very secure hold. I will only need to remove it if I need to access the spare or, alternatively, I can leave the camera secured and pull the excess cable up through from the bumper storage space. Since the camera is mounted on a horizontal surface, this seems plenty adequate. Finally, I used a few stick-on plastic retainer clips to hold the cable around the outside of the spare tire cover. The look is not as clean and good looking as Cameron's install from Oliver but I'm happy with it and it seems plenty secure. I will see how this it goes this travel season. If the Alfa-lock Velcro fails then I will try 3M automotive tape and rely on pulling through the extra cable from the storage space when I need to remove the cover. Hope this is helpful for anybody else considering this accessory install. Dan

The PD 4045 that came in your trailer should work fine for flooded batteries or AGM. It won’t work with Lithium. I had to swap mine out when I went with lithiums. The new chargers have a little switch on the front that you move to lithium if you go in that direction. I’ve still got my old charger, works fine, just not with my batteries now. Anyone need a spare? Mike

The assumption in your question is that the suburban tank is prone to problems. It’s not. There have not been very many suburban issues raised here. Ours is now a full 6 years old. No issues. The only thing I’ve had to replace is the little on/off switch which seems prone to get stuck in either on or off. The switch is about $6 and takes a few minutes to swap out. I carry a couple of spares. I also swap out the anode every year or two and clean out the deposits. We’ve been happy with it. Someone else can address reliability of the Truma. It seems a bit more complicated, mechanically. But, there haven’t been that many issues raised with it, either. Mike

Dr - I too went the accumulator route in my search for a quieter way to get water. There are also additional features of the accumulator that I've grown to like. In addition to this I did several things - all at the same time. Therefore I can't tell you which of these helped the most. When plumbing for the accumulator I replaced all attached lines with stainless steel braided lines and then covered ALL lines that I could reach with insulator tubes (LIKE THESE). Next I added more layers of insulation against the hull, on the underside of the trap door/access door to this area, and against the interior wall beneath the bed. As a result, I can now hardly hear the water pump when it come on. Good luck! Bill p.s. look me up at the Rally - I'd be happy to show you what I did.

John - There are threads here on the Forum about the relatively new Garmin 890 (which I have)(simply type 890 in the search box). In this Garmin - along with several other models related to RV's - they allow you to input the size of the tow vehicle along with the size of the RV. This is then used by the Garmin to determine which roads just might not be suitable for that specific combination. However, they do not ask for things like engine size or even the specific model of tow vehicle. This means that even though your combination just might be the same length as mine, yours might have a smaller engine which would possibly make towing up certain grades a bit more difficult than I would experience. I'm not aware of any GPS device that takes ALL factors into consideration. Having said this - the Garmin does do a good job relative to height restrictions, narrow roads and road grade warnings. I wouldn't be without mine! Bill

There are a couple of old sayings concerning discounts: 1. Always give the person a chance to say "no". 2. You never know until you ask. Bill

Yes, the Truma on-demand water heater is listed as an option for 2022 builds, but the Truma A/C is not. I believe you have to have the Truma on-demand water heater If you want to upgrade to the quieter Truma A/C in the future. Given all of the complaints about the noise of the Dometic A/C, that could influence one's decision about which water heater system to go with.

Water pump failures seem to be a thing this weekend….

thanks for all the info. I will go with AGM the lithium is cost prohibitive. we usually plug in anyway.

I bought the Garmin BC35 for use with my Garmin 890. Overall I've been happy with it but given how I wanted to mount the camera and WiFi sending unit there were some "issues". I mounted the camera in the usual roof position with its wires entering the Ollie into the attic. Unfortunately, due to the distance from there to the cabin of the truck plus the various things (insulation, cabinets, 3 layers of fiberglass shell, etc.) the transmission was spotty. So, even though Garmin claims that there is no "extension cord" for the WiFi sending unit I did manage to purchase a cord that with very slight modification worked. However, only one 6 foot extension would work due to the voltage drop of adding more. The good news is that with this 6 foot extension I was able to get the WiFi sending unit into the first kitchen cabinet just inside the front door. This location not only was sufficient for strength of signal but was handy to the electric from the switch panel just inside the front door. I did write this up in another thread and later I'll try to find it for you. Bill

My water heater quit working on gas a couple of days after delivery. I did some basic troubleshooting and determined after ten minutes that the ignitor was not firing. The system would cycle on and off three times, then lock out with a solid red light. The overtemp switches were not tripped, and there was gas, which I proved by carefully sticking a long camp stove lighter in the burner hole. I clicked the lighter and the flame POPPED and whooshed out and burned all the hair off the back of my hand. Check, there is gas! Note to self: do not do this again... I called Jason at Oliver Service and asked if he could send me a replacement board so I could install it myself. He told me that they do not warranty the appliances and I would have to take it to an RV dealer for repair. Fine.... I found a new OEM module on Amazon for $79, and also a much better aftermarket one for about the same price, but it would require a new plastic cover. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0002MG2IK/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IY2Y0Y0X7RVZF&colid=1X5H11EH41351 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B007HRVXY6/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3LZPCEN833TPC&colid=1X5H11EH41351 Since it was going to be a warranty repair, and I am a confirmed cheapskate, I scheduled an appointment at a local shop in Spokane. They told me it would be three weeks before they could see me, and that they stocked a lot of boards for the Suburban heaters, so most likely they could fix it while I waited. I told them that I would be surprised if the job took more than fifteen minutes, and access to it was great. Three weeks later I showed up, checked in, watched with concern as they took Mouse away, and then I waited. Half an hour later I was called into the office. "The board is bad." ME: "Right, I knew that and I told your tech." "In order to do this under warranty we have to order a replacement board from Suburban, and it will take two to six weeks to get here, do you need the water heater to work before then?" ME: silence, counting to ten very slowly. "Sir?" ME: "I do need it to work on propane. Is there an alternative?" "We can install an aftermarket Dinosaur Electronics board, it is a much better part and has a five year warranty, and we have plenty of those in stock since the Suburban boards fail so often." ME: Sinking heart. "How much would that cost?" "The board is $129 and the cover is $10, and it will be $279 total with labor." ME: "I wish this was mentioned when I talked three weeks ago. Just put it back together and I'll order the part from Amazon and fix the heater in two days." "OK, fine, that will be $50 plus tax for the diagnosis." As I left, the tech who did the work told me quietly, "I left your old board on the floor at the entry, and I also left a used one that was in our junk box. We strip stuff like that off old water heaters when we scrap them. It will probably work fine for years. They sure did build your trailer nice!" I was floored and relieved, and my faith in mankind got a very small boost. I thanked him and left with Mouse, feeling a lot better. I got home, plugged in the board and the heater fired right up. Woohoo! My old (brand new) board that failed (water pump is to the left): The underside, showing the bottom of the fried resistor. The white foam strip goes on the PC board and keeps it off the mounting surface (the water pump and manifold assembly plate). If I had the notion, I could have replaced that resistor for less than a buck.... I don't know how I should feel about the dealer, their parts prices are _over_ MSRP and they sure try to screw you, but then the tech went way out of his way to make things right. He could have got into trouble with his boss, too. Moral of story: unless it is an expensive repair or you can live without a part for a long time, just fix it yourself or have a buddy do it for you. I hope to never go back to a dealer, ever. There is no way I was going to leave Mouse there, and then have everybody start crawling around inside, looking. John Davies Spokane WA

Our hull 505 in service Aug 2019 has a major Truma burner fail at 29 months. (past the 2 yr wty) The burner box no longer contained the flames on startup and we smelled burning plastic before we shut it down. Pix from video shows symptom of flames engulfing wiring and controls. We ended up buying a replacement and having a unit shipped to us by Oliver (as Truma local service was un-available). We had a local mobile tech do the re-install and all is well now. We were lucky this happens while daylight and I could take action immediately. When we installed the new unit, we secured the back side of the water heater to the trailer frame so it can't bounce at all. The old unit got shipped back to Truma for analysis in January 2022...we've still to hear back from TRUMA on the topic.

Here's the switch Mike mentioned on the upgrade panel John also mentioned, same upgrade we installed for our Battleborn Lithium as recommended by Battleborn. We also have a spare older working panel for LA if anyone needs one. Here's Progressive Dynamic's installation and operation guide download for the PD 4000 series power control center for LA & LI batteries: https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-content/uploads/Support/manuals/110145-English.pdf

@OKCamper has a Sport. (And it may be the only one ever made. Not sure.) There was one demo model sold by the factory in 2014. Might be hers?

I like the smaller display. I have a similar tray in my console.

For John Davies, I like the idea of the switch for on and off use. I do realize that safety is most important in doing this and I was thinking of putting the on and off switch under the dinette seat where the other electronics are located, this I think would be a safe place as nothing is stored under this seat. I see in the pics that there are two red wires together on one of the on and off switch terminals on the back and one wire is a single wire, does it make any difference which wires go where. I have not looked at the wires on the back side of the detector yet to see how they are arranged, how do I know which two red wires go together and which one is the single one. Turning off the detector does cause me some concern and would be adding another battery power unit like they use in home use be advisable, they seen not to be as sensitive as RV units are. I guess I'm like many others, my unit just goes off for reasons that I can't seem to find out why, you know the drill, open all windows, turn on fan to take air out, etc. and hope the unit will stop buzzing. Does hitting the reset button do anything, I know when I hit the reset it does nothing at the present time, I guess the detectors is not clear yet and is still detecting something. Any info you could give here will be appreciated much, thanks, trainman

Additional reasons we went with the Garmin 780 RV GPS. The 780 (6.95" screen) fit nicely in our center console, and we can add a wireless backup camera to Ollie that can be displayed on the GPS that transmits up to 45'. https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/501486

Found these old pricing spec sheets and brochures on the "Way Back Machine" that look to be from just prior to the hiatus. Were any of the "sport" models ever produced? Sport 17' Elite 17' Sport 22' Elite 22' 17' Brochure 22' Brochure

I’ll try that too. Thanks

The filter bowl is only a few inches from the pump inlet port, it should be enough, if there is any suction being created. You can remove the inlet hose and put your finger over that open end, you should feel strong suction with the pump running. It is most likely that a defective part will fail when it is brand new, we call that teething pains. My water heater board blew a resistor in the first week. I replaced it with a used board of unknown age and it has been fine ever since. You should be able to get a pump at any RV store, swap it out yourself, and repair the original to keep for for a spare, unless you want to go through the huge time wasting hassle of trying for a warranty repair. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2036-suburban-hot-water-heater-failed-a-dealer-repair-story-and-lesson/ John Davies Spokane WA

It sounds like an internal failure of the pump, like a bad one-way check valve. Try removing the inlet filter bowl, filling it with water and putting it back on. If that won't prime it, you will have to remove it and either open it up out get a replacement. One good thing, the pump is super easy to work on in an Ollie.... John Davies Spokane WA

I’ve been to discount tire twice with my Oliver. I put a tall block under the front jack to stabilize and then a tall block on the side I want to lift with the onboard jack (“stabilizer”). When done with one side I lower it and raise the other side using a tall block. The jack only extends 3 or 4 inches. When done with the other side I raise the front jack, put the blocks in my tongue box and go home. Mike

I signed up in January but it is not available in my area yet. Speeds look awesome...for now. I am concerned that the more users, the slower the speed. But, our local internet service is a joke, so this almost has to be better!

It’s not ours!!

We will be in site E33. This will be our first Ollie rally. I'll be bringing along some copies of my two camping devotional books. (one has a "hint" of an Ollie on the cover.) Let me know if you'd like for me to reserve one for you. (link to more info: amzn.to/3k9UTgu

That's weird but smart - with every camper I've owned, the board has been inside the exterior compartment and I just assumed that it was in that location with the Oliver. Sorry about that! - Bill

It's not outside, it is inside the cabin, on my trailer (Hull 218).... In the top pic, one of the water pump fittings is barely visible to the left (forward) of the board. It is hidden by a yellowish plastic splash cover, remove two philips screws after unplugging the igniter cable and low voltage connector. The board is stuck down with tape. Guard the screws with your life, they want to roll down and vanish into the dark recesses, and you can't retrieve them with a magnet. I suggest that you buy the aftermarket board mentioned above, unless you can find a free one. I don't know why they put the board there. Right next to a water system component that needs regular servicing (filter cleaning) is NOT a good location. I would have selected a much drier spot in the aft compartment. There is no reason for it to be in a quick access compartment... John Davies Spokane WA

What a terrible experience! I am glad the technician helped you in the end. Unfortunately, I am afraid most dealer repair shops, at least the 4 we have tired anyway, are much like the one you visited. We don't know how to repair or diagnose our camper problems ourselves. This is the one of the main reasons we bought an Oliver. Luckily we live only 4 1/2 hours away from the factory if things go wrong with ours. From reading your posts, you seem well equipped and skilled to handle most anything that goes wrong yourself. I hope you don't have to you put those skills to use again anytime soon. Yvonne

I'd guess that the tech knows the kind of place that he is working for and wanted to try to make things right. I'd also bet that this tech will not be working for these people for very long unless he has absolutely no other choice. Glad you got it fixed but sad that it cost you $50 to find out what you already knew. Bill