Leaderboard

I just finalized my options today on a 2023 model to be delivered early January. Yikes! But, after having several issues with a traditionally-built trailer and an entirely unacceptable experience with the dealer who sold it to me, the value of the Oliver, with its superior construction and level of customer and fellow owners support, makes it worth the premium cost.

I think installing WAGO connectors would be smart for everybody. Electrical fires are not good. I just added this to my off season Honey Do list. Thanks for the information. I just ordered a multi pack on Amazon, these are way cheaper in bulk, and I plan to throw away my collection of old school wire nuts. WAGO 221 LEVER-NUTS 175pc Wire Connector Assortment Pack Caution, don’t buy odd brands, they may not be UL approved.! Good video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=n8gLG6c-iKc BTW it is WAGO, not Wago, just like NATO…😬 John Davies Spokane WA

This has been discussed thru the years. I don’t recall anyone expounding on the merits of this idea. But, that was back in the days before solar and lithium batteries. Please keep the group informed on your experiences using the e-blankets. With today’s technology, you’ve got a good shot at this working. The only problem I can anticipate is completely replacing the overnight amps used the next day. With good sun, it should work.

You need to run the furnace, especially if it will get below freezing, because that is how the tanks and plumbing are warmed. You are overly optimistic about the performance of your solar panels, don’t count on much charging if it is cloudy or you are under trees. They simply don’t do much in those conditions. So you need to RATION electricity, and use propane whenever possible, for the fridge and heating, unless you are in bright sunlight most of the day. The tow vehicle will not charge those lithium batteries, Oliver leaves that wire disconnected. So you will have to use a generator if the sun is not enough, and use a portable solar panel on sunny days if you are parked in shade. Or plug into shore power a couple of times per week. My wife sleeps under regular sheets and blankets, I sleep in a summer (35 degree) poly mummy bag in lightweight jammies. We both adjust the coverage as the trailer cools down to the set temp of 60 degrees. When I am solo I let it get to 50. If plugged into shore power I set a box heater to that temp, and the furnace to two degrees below it. If the box heater is unable to keep up, the furnace will kick on as needed. I crack one rear window an inch, and open the bathroom roof vent half way, for a little cross ventilation, with the bath door open. The big ceiling vent stays closed. I would not use an electric blanket, you cannot tuck it in around the mattress or it will overheat, and it will end up on the floor a dozen times each night if you don’t. This is for the Twin beds, it might work OK for the single big mattress. John Davies Spokane WA

An Oliver owner on the Olive Facebook page passed on his purchase of this 1/2” hex head wrench off of Amazon. It’s used to tighten the city and fresh water fittings on the Oliver and its compact, easily storable, space saver, works perfectly. My city water fitting was loose, and not anymore. I feel like this was a little expensive for this tool and had trouble locating it anywhere else. Lowes, HD and even our local hardware had nothing in available. You may want to shop it for a cheaper price. It’s also a good time to check both your city and fresh inlet water screens. If this has already been posted, MODs please delete or link to existing post.

FYI There are two sizes of these connectors. The 221-41x top out at 12 gauge. You'll need the 221-61x 10 gauge for the transfer switch.

I just installed the full kit with the 4 additional fans. Glad I did as the fans seem to have an immediate positive impact on efficiency on hot days even though Oliver had already installed one fan within the vents. Based on some initial tests, I'm pretty sure the ROI is pretty good for this device on efficiency improvements alone. The installation on our Norcold 4000 was pretty straight forward but tedious with all the small wiring required for the full kit with fans. Fortunately I did not have to remove the fridge to get the sensor on the boiler tube. I also had an easily accessible drip tube to run the interior fan wires. It took me 12 hours start to finish (4 hours per day for 3 days). That includes the research, planning, getting the electrical components needed and the installation, testing and configuration. Of course, knowing what I know now, I could install another one on the same model in a couple hours max. 🙂 Here's a few pictures - not a lot of detail as online manuals and videos are really good - and each fridge is going to be different wire colors, etc. I mounted the external fans pretty much exactly like @C&MCurrie, so not going to duplicate those. Happy to answer questions though! Here's where I put the boiler tube sensor: And here's a picture of the two little fans I installed on the roof of the fridge: What it looks like after the install:

Fans do indeed help in hot weather. I have just installed the Fridge Defend by ARP on my Norcold 4000, which included 4 fans..Two small fans inside the fridge as well as two larger fans for the lower and upper outside vents. Oliver already had installed an optional fan in the middle of the outside vents, so I now have 3 fans working in sync outside on 3 different levels (bottom, middle and top) and the two interior fans. I have run a few tests the past few days with the new fans on and off in 95F-100F heat. I started with a room temperature refrigerator and a setting of 6 on the fridge temperature. The minimum temperature the fridge could achieve was reached in each case in about 15 hours (when the first off/on "cycle" occurred). The results were pretty convincing: Min temp in 15 hours with single Oliver installed fan: 40.0F Min temp in 15 hours with all 5 installed fans running: 28.1F I wish I knew which of the fans were most important, but the way the ARP is wired, it's all on or none on. I suspect it's a combination of all the fans. Nice thing is I bought the ARP for peace of mind as I do tow with my fridge running as most of us do and I know the absorption fridges are inefficient and can be dangerous when off level for even a few minutes. Nice bonus to add the fans (relatively inexpensive) along with the ARP controller.

The main take away I got from your story is that you were paying attention to what was going on around you, formed and acted on a contingency plan. Without having done so, things would have worked out differently. Perhaps with a much poorer outcome. No doubt, your former military training and good common sense played a big part here.

We don’t use electric blankets, we use good goose down comforters and we have a Vornado space heater that really takes the chill off. I’m not sure what mattresses you have but if you have the foam mattresses I suggest checking with the manufacturer on using a electric blanket on memory foam, there are some that do not recommend it depending on what type of foam they use.

Great suggestion, necessity is the mother of invention! 😊 👍🏻👍🏻

In a pinch I've also used a bolt with a hex head on it that's the right size before. I clamped the bolt on the threads with a pair of vice grips or something and then you can use the bolt head as a hex wrench. 🙂

This is not a difficult job especially with the newer style wire connections. Your only real issue is going to be that cable between the switch and EMS, the one with the burnt white wire. If there isn’t enough extra slack to be able to cut back the damaged wire, a new section of cable will be required. At this point, electrician level skills will be necessary. I’d recommend an rv service first, mobile if possible. A residential electrician can't be as flexible when it comes to small jobs and might not be willing to tackle something out of their norm. Maybe you have a knowledgeable RVer close by?

I would call Progressive Dynamics support and forward your pictures to them. They have improved the way the wires interconnect, ie from using the terminal strip to individual Wago lever connectors. Maybe they’ll give you some satisfaction on a replacement. Also open a service ticket with oliver service. Yours is not the first occurrence of this issue and they need to be kept aware. They may also provide guidance regarding replacement of the switch.

I discovered the problem. The lunchbox basically blew up at one connection. Pics will show. Now what? Call Jason or Progressive?

We don’t use electric blankets. If dry camping the furnace does a fine job of keeping things warm. If we have electric our little Vornado keeps things warm. Like JD, we keep a window cracked and a roof vent open. Sheets and blankets work well for us. We also have a couple of LL Bean fleece sleeping bag liners that are nice under the covers when it gets really cold. Mike

Rod Stewart I guess this proves most don’t actually read every word in long posts. I know I’ve been guilty.

The base price for my 2021 Elite 2 was $57,500, ordered September 2020. I made a list of the LE2 base prices that folks have posted in this thread. 2017 $48,500 2018 $54,100 2019 $53,900 2020 $55,000 2021 $57,500 2022 $65,000 2023 $73,500 Unfortunately, you cannot use these base prices alone to do a cost increase analysis. As John D pointed out, there were many popular optional features in previous models, that were included in the base price as standard in subsequent years. If you wanted to do a good analysis, you’d have to dissect the build sheet on all model years and factor it into the cost. I’m happy with my decision to buy an Oliver.

There is an automatic transfer switch that selects which outside power inlet gets directed to the EMS input. It should be a black lunchbox mounted in the same general area as the EMS and power distribution panel. There will be one cable coming in it from each of the two inlets and a third connecting it to the EMS. I would suggest removing the top cover and having a look at the wiring inside. Start troubleshooting from this point before assuming the problem is with the EMS.

Sleeping with my peripheral neuropathy affected feet near the battery vault, I use a rechargeable USB hand warmer (aka foot warmer) to take the chill off. It's kinda like bricks placed at the foot of the bed in days past - except it stays warm all night. Charlie.

This modification, the Fridge Defend, seems like a complete no brainer. Seems like the sort of device that should be standard on all RV fridges. Thanks for your posts (here and elsewhere). It's definitely on my list for this fall.

Yeah, not much room in there. I think your idea of removing that junction box to make room would work, but you would still want to aim the blower to get air flowing up the left side as that's where your cooling absorber coils are. If the blower blew air straight up into the boiler I think it would be defeating the purpose of the boiler a bit. Also, the fan temperature sensor goes on the lower absorber coil and it's even obscured! wow.

I couldn't remember seeing if yours had the early or late style. Their were some later LEIIs built that had the enlarged indentation but with the small vent. I remember being concerned about this issue when I ordered my 2018, which were still Dometics at the time.

John, that really stinks that you have to remove the fridge - I would have just done the fans for that benefit and waited (for a required maintenance or something) to connect the boiler sensor if I would have had to remove mine. I'm camping in some really hot conditions though, so if you are not you may not get as much benefit from the fans as I'm seeing. Worth considering though?

Thanks for the informative replies. You all make good points. It appears that running the furnace and using down comforters are the best way to stay warm the way we like it. We opted for the two 20-lb. propane tanks, because I have bilateral torn rotator cuffs and expect it will be very difficult to lift 30-lb. tanks (which weigh 55 lbs. when full) into the "doghouse." It is tough enough for me now to lift 20-lb. tanks (which weigh 36 lbs. when full) that high, and I'm not getting any younger! So, we will have 10 gallons of tank capacity available. When running the furnace all night, along with an absorption fridge/freezer, how much propane is burned per day? In those conditions, how often must two 20-lb. propane tanks be refilled?

That’s it!!! 😊👍🏻 Ha…I have been guilty as well.

There is power to the trailer from the 30amp RV cord (both ends) but no power IN the trailer and a dead ems. I will look for the lunchbox and remove cover and look in there next.

Here's my quick hack to get hot air away from the fridge. Big thanks to Katjo for turning me onto this fan from her fantastic series of videos. Love them! Anyway, the fan charges up with a USB, then runs on its own internal battery. I hung it onto the outside of the trailer with a bungee. I really felt the hot air coming out. Today it was only 90 degrees so it was just a test run for when I'm back in the desert again in 100 degree weather. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091GRLBHZ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A19DWMTD5OSZWP&psc=1

I buy mine at Costco. Mossey

Thanks. Tomorrow morning I will begin again. I appreciate all the help from everybody so far.

My 2017 LE2 remote display was installed below the street side bed and it should be obvious when you see the bright red lights scrolling through various readings as Frank’s pictures show. The surge protector will be the first black box the incoming AC power connects to. You should be able to find a large black cable on the inside at the same point your power cable connects to on the outside. The surge protector may have a flat grey data cable similar to the cable that connected you old home phone to the wall jack. If you find that flat cable, you can find the remote display at the other end of it. Mossey

I am going to assume the 120 volt AC worked yesterday. And you have tested the 30 amp circuit at you new location to verify it is operating correctly. Have you tested the trailer end of the power cord? Frank mentioned the surge protector remote display located in the attic, but I am not sure where the remote display would be located in a 2018 Elite. If you know where the remote display is located, have you checked it? It is the first smart device that would provide useful information about the 120 volt AC power coming into the trailer and it should be checked. You could use the inverter to provide 120 volt power by inverting the 12 volt DC battery power to make a cup of coffee, but you probably would be able to run the A/C for a very short time if you have enough battery power. I guess we have more questions than answers at this point. Mossey EDIT: I guess I’m a little slow with my response, please ignore any of my questions you have already addressed.

Ours is a 2019, but maybe in 2018 the EMS display was mounted somewhere else? Maybe in one of the compartments under the bed. According to the 2018 Elite I manual on the Oliver University, the trailer does have the Progressive EMS. Should look something like this.

There are those of us that will remember Oliver’s ill fated foray into building a more “affordable” trailer. A steel frame, cheap plastic hardware, no standard equipment like a furnace or an air conditioner. The Sport, they called it. They built a single example and even at about the same price as a new SOB, it sat unsold at the factory for 5 or 6 years. Nobody seriously considering an Oliver wants that and anyway, there’s already a stripped down Oliver. It’s called a Casita.

Krunch got gas at BUC-EE’S near Valdosta this morning, $3.19. Mossey

I agree and understand all those points. It is hard to tell someone "its a good deal" because most of us do not know the other persons situation. Everyone has different goals, are at different stages of our lives, and in different financial situations. We felt for us at this time it fit what we wanted to do now and in the future. We have no regrets and look forward to the next 15-20 years traveling and hopefully meeting several of you. I do think some people are missing the value of the "Oliver Family" which includes everyone at Oliver and the owners. It is hard to put a dollar value on service and folks on this forum who have been willing to help me and answer my questions. I only hope I can pay it forward now.

I have mixed feelings about this issue that highlight the difference between micro and macro economic analysis. We take delivery of a 2022 Elite II in November, with a base price of $65K, and a much higher total price with the options we have selected. From a "micro" perspective, we would, personally, prefer to pay less. But we are grateful we are not paying for a 2023 model! The "macro" view is explained by simple supply/demand analysis and adjustment for inflation. The referenced price increases are quite predictable given the surge in RV demand caused by the pandemic, and the inflation surge of the past year+, which has been driven by increased material and labor costs. Given these factors, one could argue that Olivers have been underpriced for the market from 2016 through 2022. Thus, from a "macro" perspective, we are paying less than true "market value" for our 2022 Elite II.

John beat me to it but I will add this. We just picked up our Elite ll on July 22. The base price for ours was $65K. So they have only went up $11K from 2018. I will add we happily paid what was asked for. After reading posts on here for over 4 years and talking with folks at Oliver I believe you get way more than just a travel trailer with Oliver. Just my opinion.

The base LE2 Twin was $48,500 in 2017. The new 2023 Twin and Standard will be $73,500. That is a $25,000 increase in SEVEN years. That increase does not equate to real numbers because 2022 dollars are 16% lower than 2017 dollars in actual purchase power, due to inflation. You can’t compare apples to oranges. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/7141-new-trailer-pricing-2023-le2-vs-2017-le2/ Let’s keep our numbers straight, please. There have been small annual increases but almost always they have included some additional standard features. It is only during the pandemic that it got “out of hand” due to supply delays and cost increases. And you don’t have to buy that $16k (!!!) lithium 640 AH package. John Davies Spokane WA

There needs to be a "gagging" emoji for this! Paula

I put a clear tinted window from Lippert in our Oliver entry door made by Lippert. I called Lippert and talked to a real person (Sandra Berg) and told her what I wanted to do. She asked for some numbers off of the door to make sure I ordered the correct parts. Be sure to order the “snap in window release clips”. They are supposed to expand the tabs that secure the inside frame to the outside frame but I still had to break several tabs to get them to release, so you’ll also need a new inside and outside frame. You will want to use new frames anyway so that you have good seals Parts I ended up using for hull 313 706073 GLASS; DARK TINT - G20; 13.25 X 22.24 TEMPERED 429436 SNAP-IN WINDOW CLIPS; 16 PCS KIT 716156 WINDOW FRAME; LOW PROFILE W /SEAL; 15 X 24 OUTER - WHT 716157 WINDOW FRAME; LOW PROFILE; 15 X 24 INNER - WHT

Same!

We have several weather apps on our iPhones that keep us up to date. AM and FM stations also provide local weather. When we’re boondocking without cell service non of that helps. I did install a SiriusXM receiver in the trailer that plays through the Furrion. I haven’t checked to see if I can get local weather, but I can get news, sports and music anywhere. We were at a city campground in Leavenworth, Kansas for a family reunion a few years ago. It is right on the Missouri River. Lots of rain in the area and north of Kansas. The river was rising and I expected a problem. We came “home” from a family event one night and I decided to hook up to the truck, put away chairs and disconnect power. At 2:30am the Leavenworth police drove through the campsite, lights a-blaze, and loudspeaker blaring to evacuate immediately. We were the first out within 15 minutes. The campground was under water a couple of hours later before the sun came up. It was a bit unnerving, but we had been paying attention to the weather and weather reports. Mike

The hull mold was altered when they switched to Norcold. I borrowed your image and stacked it above my image. Pretty sad, eh? John Davies Spokane WA

My Dometic has to come completely out, there is no way to reach the burner area, unless I cut a big hole in the hull. The lower access hatch is half the height of yours 😤😤😤😤😤 I am waiting until late Fall, in case something bad happens. A replacement fridge is an 8 week special order😳 I do not want to risk wrecking my camping season. I am not sure the lower fan will fit, clearance is so tight… John Davies Spokane WA