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Between LA and Bakersfield, tucked about 17 miles west of I5. It's a dry camp, but beautiful. It's at almost 9000 feet.

It’s always a bit tense when cutting or drilling into the nice pristine glossy surface of the Ollie, you just have to make sure that the drill bit or hole saw doesn’t go skidding across the surface and create a big ugly scar, and also taking care not to crack or chip the gel coat layer. But I’ve had very good success using diamond grit hole saws on the Ollie for making holes. The diamond grit hole saw makes a very nice clean cut, and doesn’t cause any chipping or cracking of the top gel coat layer. The center pilot bit creates a nice starter hole to keep the hole saw from shifting while drilling.

Make a check sheet. Follow the check sheet. To drain the water heater: Step one, open the T & P (temp and pressure relief valve). Step two, then remove the anode plug Failure to open the T &P valve first could cause that anode plug to fly out under extreme pressure. Some idiot just did that, and the anode flew out over five feet and soaked the unaware actor. Lucky that no one got hurt. (I should have known better, as I had written the check sheet. And in a former life I used to winterize over 40 units a year. And boy was that water COLD) Another note: the anode had a lot of holes in it. That is great. It means it is doing it's job. And the more holes means the more area exposed to the water. Over 6 years and don't have to replace it yet. Guess we are lucky and have used "good" water. Will only replace it when it is down to a wire and about 3 or 4 inches long. Some dealers like to sell tnem. Think Spring

For a boat that sits in the water long term (in a slip), you definitely need to fill cracks and chips in the gelcoat, it can cause blistering and possibly delamination and rot otherwise. Your Ollie is not a worry. You will see a lot accumulate behind the rear tires, under the curve of the hull, unless you add mudflaps. Those chips can be unsightly, but most likely only the person who washes will notice. Once there are a few bugs stuck down, nobody will notice chips. John Davies Spokane WA

Just today I lost power to the rear / streetside jack on our Oliver. Checked fuses & found them all good. A close look revealed a wire had come loose from the back of the switch. Crimped the female fitting on the loose positive wire a bit to increase tension on the switch as it was still a bit loose when re-attached and now all is well.

I’ve got a bunch of chips. All is good. I wish mine were the size of a pin head, but most are larger. I may fix them at some point, but right now we’re too busy camping. Mike

1st question - Just like any insurance the answer to you question depends on: a. can you afford to "self insure"? The word "afford" has several meanings here - obviously the money involved is one but what about peace of mind knowing that many "big" expenses will already be taken care of? b. what are the "odds" that you will actually need the insurance? Obviously, the odds are very good IF you ever have a claim, but, these same odds are very bad if you never have a claim. c. are you disciplined enough to "pay" yourself that $25 per month and put it into a "repair fund". And even if the answer is "yes" then will it be enough to cover the expense of what you might have to repair? Remember that you already have some insurance on a brand new Oliver. Certainly for at least the first year you will be paying that additional $25 per month for basically nothing given that the Oliver warranty covers everything. 2nd question - I do not "do" Facebook, so, I'm not the best person to ask. From what little I do know, at least one of the Facebook groups was formed in order to make it a bit easier to post pictures and since members of a group were more "centered on Facebook for other aspects of their lives, it was simply an easier platform for them (i.e. it avoided having to jump back and forth from one thing to another with different formats). Why there are two separate groups? I could guess but that would be of no use. Bill

I have done exactly what you described, it happens when you get distracted and start operating on autopilot…. I doubt that you will do it again; it is like forgetting to open the grey tank isolation/ vent valve - running water in the bathroom sink and soaked socks is a good lesson learned… Did you flush the WH tank? Get much white crud out? Do you have a 3/4 MPT tap or thread chaser? They are spendy! You can get an internal square drive pipe plug like this at NAPA for maybe $5. Use a hacksaw to cut about a dozen deep cuts (all the way past the threads) parallel to the axis. Clean up the cuts with a wire wheel. Voila, now you can cut out all that white crusty stuff that is blocking the water heater drain threads using your 1/2” extension. Blast the debris out with water or air. This also works very well if you have to replace a valve or fitting on your home water heater.,… John Davies Spokane WA

For reference, here’s a couple pics of what the outer Oliver hull fiberglass construction is like. I have this piece from a 2” diameter hole I cut in the lower hull for a modification I did. The total thickness in the area I cut through is about 1/4”. Some high stress areas are thicker with additional reinforcement in the fiberglass. The outer white gel coat layer is about 1/32” thick. A small pin head size ding is not a problem for an Ollie 🙂.

1st question - nope, you are good to go. Over time, dirt and grime will tend to collect in those chips and you might notice them more. 2nd question - Kind of like fixing paint chip on a car or truck. I've never been very good at it such that the "touch-up paint" doesn't show. One of the big problems in doing chip fix is getting the correct color - yes all Olivers are white but they are not all the same white. Or, you can wear those chips with pride. Kind of like a hard earned patina. 😉 Bill

What year is your trailer? I just went through this similar situation on my 2017. I found that the jack is grounded through one or two of the mounting bolts to the frame. I noticed that there was rust under two of the stainless washers and found out that Oliver uses steel star washers to cut through the paint on the jack. The shifting load may be moving the jack enough to lose the ground. I ran an actual ground wire to the frame to permanently fix the grounding issue. You may check the bolt tightness and/or add a ground wire.

Oliver should pick up any issues the first year or so, at any RV repair facility you choose. We’ve not had any significant repair items in almost 7 years. Mostly just upkeep, tires and batteries have been the only major expenses and I doubt an extended warranty would cover those. Mike

And here’s a very long thread on bearing maintenance that discusses the tools needed and the Timken bearings and seal part numbers: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5166-dexter-axle-bearings/

That’s a big troubleshooting clue. The light and motor are wired in parallel, and share a common ground point (see schematic in previous post), so since the light didn’t work either when this jack problem occurred, that points to a wiring connection issue with either the 12v hot lead or the ground, not a motor problem or jack screw problem.

A lot of the overland style trailers are well over 15’ or even 24’. The Kimberley Kruiser T class is over 24’, and they’ve been to several Expos as exhibiters and camping with other Kimberley’s.

You can buy marine white gel coat on Amazon and repair it. Easy to do but the color will probably not be the same white…..

I think we could use a few more details. How did it "shift"? What happens when you try to raise or lower the jack? Nothing? Any sound? Does the light work? Have you checked the simplest, first, the fuse? We can raise ours manually, but it's a bit of a pita. Sometimes, when we've camped in rain or humidity, we have to "rock" the switch a bit. Down, up, down... to get it to work. Probably a bit of corrosion or moisture. Then again, we've also experienced a poor ground, and a failed switch. We carry a spare switch, as it's not easy to find, locally, in many places. I checked your profile. 2019, Elite II. Please add it to your signature. Thanks. And, good luck.

No sensor in the wiring (see attached schematic) or mentioned in the manual anywhere. You either have a blown fuse, a faulty wire connection somewhere, or else the jack screw is binding up because of the trailer shifting. The motor may have a built in TCO (thermal cutout, often built into motor windings) to protect the motor from overheating, but no mention of that in the jack manual.

They buy gelcoat in big drums. I don't think they supply a touch-up kit, as most folks never need it. And, it doesn't last long.

The two Oliver groups were started years apart, by different Oliver owners. I don't spend a lot of time on Facebook.

I agree with SeaDawg in that most problems arise within the first year and you do have the Oliver warranty. It really is a personal decision, but we typically don’t buy extended warranty’s. The two separate Oliver groups on FB “Oliver Trailer Owners” and “Oliver Owners of America” are redundant however, anyone can make a group and that is what happen with two separate by similar Oliver groups. These groups were started by an owner(s) not by Oliver.

Thank you Sea Dawg, My first inclination is a big no to them. But trailering is a little different than buying a car. So that’s why I’m interested in folks’ opinions.

A bit of marinetex might fill the bit, and salvage your pride. A tiny chip isn't a big deal. We have a few. If the roving doesn't show, not a disaster. Seal it so the water doesn't intrude, if it's deep. You can also open a ticket, and ask for a bit of perfect match gelcoat.

Your Oliver warranty covers you, wherever you are. Many components have a 2 year warranty. Buying an extended warranty is a very personal decision. But, we usually vote against them. Most problems rear their ugly heads in the first year, imo.

Understand that this chore is not really all that difficult. And, it is good to know how to do this job in the event you have problems while on the road. However, it is messy and requires attention to detail. Remember that mistakes can be very costly. Your "big question" relative to the brand of bearings really depends on a bunch of factors - how hard are you on your bearings (i.e. do you normally tow in high heat at high speed or in wet weather or in a salty climate or tend to perform maintenance on the bearings later versus sooner, or .....). Having said this - quality is generally a good thing, kind of like one of the reasons we all bought an Oliver in the first place. But, if you are gentle on your bearings, always perform maintenance at or ahead of time, etc. there is a case to be made for not throwing your money away just so you can say you have the best. Tools are a similar decision. Buy quality tools and they will last you a lifetime. However, if you will only plan to service your bearings once a year or so and do not plan on using the tools for any other purpose and only plan to keep your RV for another 10 to 20 years and usually keep your tools in good condition (i.e. don't leave them out in the rain, stress them beyond normal tolerances, don't use a screw driver as a chisel, etc.) , a case can be made that you are wasting your money by buying anything beyond what will give you service for that period of time. Bill

Here’s the video from Dexter on bearing maintenance: https://youtu.be/GnH-h3W9XvI

Frank, that is good to hear, are the diamond saws expensive? I use plain old bimetal steel ones from a kit. which work well enough, though they do leave frayed fibers on the back side of the hole. I just use 80 grit sandpaper to CAREFULLY hand sand that smooth. Use gloves because those fibers make nasty splinters in your fingers that are nearly impossible to see and remove, because they are clear glass (silica). I have lost count of how many big holes I have drilled in “Mouse”. The first one requires bravery, after that, no big deal. I do try to not drill when I can use velcro or VHB tape instead. John Davies Spokane WA.

We were camping in VA a few years ago and attended this fine event. Saw many different campers, camping gear, and many great ideas!

@topgun2Thank Bill. I am guessing it must be the ground wire. Just coincidentally happening when the trailer had shifted while on the tongue jack. I appreciate al the feedback from everyone. DW

SeaDawg is presently "on the road", so, it just might be awhile before she can reply. At this point - I'd re-read what JED, Frank C and MountainOliver had to say nd either call it a day or add that additional ground. Bill

Overland West is based at a county park and RV camping is in the existing campground. They also have a boondocking camping area which is for tents and small overland trailers. I'm guessing with the corporate buyout a few years ago and the expansion to multiple events, it's just more structured and likely dependent on the facility they rent.

@John E Davies John, We just got back from Overland Expo East and, when we arrived, we were surprised to see a 30' Airstream, a 28' Jayco, and a 45' Class A among many other "larger campers" all in the camping area after we read the same thing you posted. I tracked down an OE rep and asked what gives? He said, they essentially have an "Overlander Camping Area" and that is what they refer to in the FAQ. He said, if you were to fill out the form for camping, it asks how long your rig is and if you say it is over 15', they explain you cannot camp with the overlanders but they will accommodate you. I told him that didn't make ANY sense because if you read the FAQ you would never fill out the form to camp since it clearly states a 24' camper is not welcome. His final answer was, they would look into adding details to the FAQ page so more people would know you CAN attend with your trailer. The Oliver team got a tremendous reception, everyone seemed to really like the trailers. We plan to go to at least one or two Overlander Expos next year and will take our Oliver, we just have a longer walk to the beer tent. Brian

Yes, unless they've changed it (I don't think they have), Oliver uses Progressive surge protection. Progressive also makes models that are external to the RV and some people have used these external protectors either because they do not have the internal one that Oliver now uses or because they believe having two will give them more protection. Bill

Spotted an E II on I-81 southbound in VA MM 9 yesterday Monday at 3:50 PM. Li’l Ollie E I was northbound headed to Hungry Mother SP for 3 days. Hear the crickets and bagpipe in the distance! IMG_6501.MOV

This whole sub-topic about battery fires is no joke! I had a laptop charging in my office here at home and at about 10:30 pm I heard what sounded like a 22 rifle going off. I rushed down the hall from the master bedroom to find that the individual cells of the lithium laptop battery were exploding and about 30% of the office was on fire. Thankfully I was able to unplug the charger and we had a fire extinguisher handy to get the fire out. Yes, insurance covered the damage (minus my deductible of course) but it took the better part of six months to get things back to normal. I no longer leave my laptop, or any other re-chargeable battery unattended. Bill

I have a '20 Tundra TRD Sport which was purchased before I knew I'd own an Oliver and right after Covid began and dealers were desperate. I have done no suspension modifications but added taller Michelin Defender tires. I do have the TRD sway bars and Bilstein shocks which I think are helpful features. I have no squat at all with the WDH. Outside of payload, which is low..around 1300# .. I find it to be a perfectly acceptable tow vehicle for the ILOVHER. It has plenty of power with the V8 and when using the Tow/Haul mode, the transmission comes to life. RPMs at times can tip up to 3k+ if you're a lead foot but doesn't stay there. I like the integrated brake controller and the plug and play seven pin. I am certain when its time to do brakes, I'm going big ProComp slotted. I would just feel safer with bigger braking power. The other thing I will add at a later date is an external transmission cooler. Somehow Toyota slipped that out of the builds starting in 2019 and uses some kind of heat exchanger. All three of my pre 2009 V8 4Runners had external coolers. There is a big stink on the Tundra forums about this as people are scan gauging pretty high ATF temps while towing. I pack light and distribute weight inside the camper if necessary (like the cooler of ice and beer) I don't do much mountain driving and if I did, the Tundra would do the job but certainly not as safely as a 3/4 ton or 1 ton diesel. I also think it's crucial with a half ton truck to have the Andersen WDH; no doubt there! With all of the above said, if money were no object, I certainly would love a larger truck but it's not in the cards as of now. The Beast is my daily driver and gas just shot to 5.29 here so I'm going to stick with her for now. With my travel primarily on the east coast, and not full time as of yet, I think its a good dependable truck for towing my baby ILOVHER.

Well, it finally happened. Got our first chip in the gelcoat. It's a tiny chip, about the size of the head of a pin, just below the beltline. First question: is it hurting anything (other than my pride)? On a regular trailer I'd be worried about water intrusion, delamination, etc. Second question: Easy fix for a tiny chip?