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We have been considering Starlink for our Oliver. I think this latest version of the new Starlink mini dish might really be worth a look and waiting for. With a much more compact/portable size and initial lower cost might be a viable option for our needs. It will be interesting to see how this new mini dish performs.

Travel Summary #2 - DAY-7 We enjoyed a wonderful ride yesterday driving northbound on US-191 from Jackson, WY to West Yellowstone. Decided to spend most of the day in the Teton's before entering YNP from the south along the J.D. Rockefeller Memorial Hwy. We stopped at a lookout point near the Jenny Lake Lodge for brunch in Casablanca -- fantastic! Room with a view: The marina at Jenny Lake: We managed to get in a nice 5+ mile hike in with the Knuckleheads along the lake before heading out to West Yellowstone for the night. We hit Old Faithful in time to view an eruption which has been happening roughly every 90 minutes for centuries. Checked into a campground near and just south of West Yellowstone for a couple nights. Had a wonderful dinner here last night with the "boys"... We plan to Explor ( @Patriot take note!) the northern sector of the NP today... More to come for those interested... Cheers! A & D (Magnus and Oscar, too! WOOF!)

The flaw in much of the above opinions is assuming that the A/C unit will remain on high fan. In reality if you arrive at a hot trailer you want the unit to run on high fan (To drop temperature) and then as the temperature falls, the have the unit automatically cycle the fan down to a low speeds. Granted it will not get the humidity as low as a perfectly right sized unit that runs 24/7 can. But it certainly is the best control path for the vast majority of users. This is precisely how, and why, most vehicle A/C systems are designed. I agree that a smaller unit can dehumidify better than a larger one. Also that a larger one can cool down a hot trailer faster. But to say which is better is a fallacy. Why? It depends: If we stay in our trailer all day and are using shore power: I would buy the smaller sized unit to run 24/7. If we are in hot and/or humid conditions, and are not in the trailer all day, especially without shore power, the bigger unit has the edge because you have a LOT of latent heat to dissipate. Sort of like the "Spring Fiasco", the right decision absolutely depends on how YOU use YOUR rig. There is no one right answer that fits all situations for this topic as well. In my case, I want the quietest unit available. I want high capacity as we are a "Type 2" customer. For those reasons the Houghton 13.5 was my pick. I went into the purchase knowing that a simple relay would fix the continuous running fan problem and suspecting that moving the thermistor would fix the cycling issue. But I'm a DIY guy and can fix them. I'm not going to trumpet the Houghton for most owners as that is not something that many could or would not want to take on. Also, until I have personally executed the two mods I have no real world basis to report their success or failure. If the Mods work, as my 50 years as a M.E. tells me they will, then that is a different situation. Just have to get to my rig in July to make it happen. I believe that making changes to our OE2's needs to be done cautiously and with study. If you have the luxury of time, I would not be buying an A/C just yet. Let the pioneer DIYers do their thing and report back in the Fall their real world experiences for how they used their trailers and how their A/C performed. Also let the new guys on the block get an opportunity to find the bugs in their units as well. GJ

On the level Mod!! My good friend @JBurton suggested this leveling assist mod and we both placed an order today. The company is based right here in North Carolina 🇺🇸 and they also provide product support. It’s a fairly basic install of a 3-axis digital accelerometer. Based on the strong reviews it appears to be a worthwhile product that will hopefully serve us well. We really like supporting USA small businesses when we can.🇺🇸 Link - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C28VJLG5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR1d6l5u5zpQ0eqfAMrGD0R2K1lie99yvbOA2ZyyNV6Ar8CxyVNqkHZUoeg_aem_ZmFrZWR1bW15MTZieXRlcw A quick tutorial -

Siding and trim work is done, doors are in, windows are in, garage doors/openers have been delivered and will be installed next week. Then, final grading and the asphalt people do their thing! Coming together!

Thanks so much to everyone! Dave and Steph and Dud B particularly. The cause of the dead refrigerator outlet was at the next junction down the circuit at the hot water heater. The Wago lever nuts were rather carelessly taped and a neutral wire had slipped out. I retaped them for now and power was restored. I may very well try a better solution. I see so many positive comments on these Wago connectors, but the levers on these seem so easily opened. I'm very disappointed in the help I received from Oliver technical support. When on a trip I was told to check the breaker wires and then that the outlet might be bad. After these proved to be ok, on my second call I asked where I should check next and were there any junctions in the circuit. I was told, " if it's a 120V problem, you'll have to take it to a service center". That was it, no suggestion. I just don't understand why he didn't tell me to check the next junction that was at the water heater. You guys guided me to the next easy solution. I attached a few photos. Hopefully, it might help someone else. Thanks again! Ron

Here are pictures of the two air vents in my 2008 Elite. You can see one is located on the wall as you exit the trailer, and the other is in the galley area, on the wall to the left of the sink. They provide passive venting from the rear of the space containing the oven. Not sure of a source for the vents, but you get the idea and should be able to find something similar. If you are particularly handy and inspired, consider a tiny switch activated fan mounted behind one of the vents which could turn it from a passive to an active heat protection. Good luck! Be sure to post pictures of your finished project.

Additional Mini details: Mini Roam Service Plan. The Mini Roam Plan allows you to access Services at any destination where Starlink provides active coverage and is designed for low demand, portable, land-based use, such as camping or nomadic living. You must have an active Residential or Mobile Service Plan ("Primary Plan") in order to purchase a Mini Roam Services Plan. If you cancel your Primary Plan, your Mini Roam Plan will also be cancelled. Mini Roam Services allow you to access Services only at land-based destinations within the continent that you receive Residential Services. Mini Roam Services cannot be used on the ocean or in-motion. Mini Roam Services cannot be paused. If you use Mini Roam Services for more than two months in a country that is different than your Primary Plan Service address, Starlink may suspend your Mini Roam Services. Starlink may immediately suspend your Services if your new location is not in an authorized territory (marked “Available or Waitlist”) on the Starlink map: www.starlink.com/map. Mini Roam Service charges will be ongoing until you terminate your Primary Plan Services or your Mini Roam Services via your Starlink account. The Mini Roam Service Plan assigns a set amount of “Mobile” data to customers each month, as described in the Fair Use Policy. Mobile data that is assigned to Mini Roam users is always deprioritized as compared to other Starlink Service Plans, resulting in degraded Service and slower speeds in congested areas and during peak hours. Unused Mobile data does not rollover to the next month. If you have exhausted your Mobile data in a given month, you are able to purchase additional Mobile data. Customers who exhaust and have not purchased additional Mobile data will be unable to connect to the internet except to access their Starlink account on www.starlink.com, where additional Mobile data can be purchased, so that you may reconnect to the internet. You may not transfer the Kit assigned to your Mini Roam Plan to another customer or account at any time. If you cancel your Mini Roam Services and wish to reactivate, Starlink may require you to switch to the Regional Plan described in Section 5.1(a).

I received the mini dish email last night. We have Starlink residential service due to our rural location and it works great. The email stated that you must have residential service to add on the Mini at $30/month which might be a deal breaker for many, not to mention the $599 hardware cost. It is also limited to 50GB download and $1/GB over that. It has a built in router and looks like it has it's own portable rechargeable power supply at first glance. Here's the link to the Mini specs: https://www.starlink.com/specifications?spec=5 We have the mobile service for the Ollie and it has worked out well so far over this summer. Both are pricey and I may have opted for the Mini had we not already purchased the Mobile service. It doesn't look like you can pause the Mini service though.

You got to get a leveling device. Now that we've had one since fall of '23 I would not want to camp without it! Too bad I did not know of this choice, or perhaps its new on the market. I like it made in the USA (even the great state of NC for you locals)! Many of us have already gone with the LevelMatePRO. It is a bit more expensive, though it has two features I do prefer. One is you get all directions on one screen and do not have to switch to Roll vs. Pitch screens. The other is it can be hardwired, installed out of site and out of mind. I have mine under the dinette where it was easy to connect to 12VDC, no battery replacement and 2 AAs makes the Beech Lane product pretty big. Either model is a GREAT improvement. It reads easily from the driver's seat. Love how quickly we find the most level spot and level. Given these details, if this was available when I made my purchase decision, I would go with Made in USA regardless!

For those interested, a short interim travel summary: So, we departed NM mid-morning, last Friday for Moab, UT. High winds and rain from Farmington to Shiprock slowed us way down, but the TV/Casablanca performed wonderfully. Moab and Arches were fantastic and we'll be staying there a few days on our return leg next week. We initially planned to spend about 5 or 6 days in Rock Springs, WY for an annual "Escapade Rally" -- but changed our minds after 2 nights there. Decided that the time away from home would be better spent exploring around the Tetons and Yellowstone. Dumping holding tanks and topping off fresh while the Knuckleheads wait for D to return... So we "pulled-chocks" yesterday AM and headed north on the US 191 (one of our most fav US HWYs) - stopped for a great lunch at a Brewery in Pinedale, WY. Smoked brisket nachos - OMG! Made our way to Jackson winding our way northbound on the beautiful US-19 following the Windriver Range and eventually the Hoback River into Jackson. The snow-capped Windriver Range in the distance below... Hoback River alongside the 191 - no wind and temps in mid-60s all day long: Harvest Hosted at the Jackson Hole Still Works - met some phenomenal young men that owned the distillery and they provided an interesting/educational tour of their very modern facility here. Our "boondock" location at the HH venue in Jackson, can you find Magnus below?: It's off to Coulter Lake, Teton NP this morning then up to Yellowstone this afternoon... More later... Cheers, All! A & D

To your point @Half Fast HugoHere is another vid on pretty much everything you mentioned. This tuber seems to be on point with the mini. At this point I am in a holding pattern on pulling the trigger waiting for the newness dust to settle and user reviews are available. It appears there is no pause in service when not in use and a cap at 50GB per month with additional GB available naturally at an added cost. I don’t have an invitation/email to the dance, so I shall wait and see. 🙃

I suspect that they have are looking at their growth rate projections. Better to have such a plan to first serve their existing customers. Then as the rest of their satelits get boosted to space, they will have the ability to support many more customers. Then hopefully a plan similar to the Garmin Sat Trackers would be offered. Basically an annual fee for all and then tiers of levels of service which can start/stop monthly if desired. Such a plan would be great for RV use. This thread was a head turner for me. Thanks for posting David and all for the update.

Exactly why we got the home Starlink in the first place. Our line of sight was horribly inconsistent and had terrible speeds. It was cheaper but much more aggravating since I still do some work from home. The Home Starlink has been superb as has the Mobile Starlink! We're eligible for the Mini but, I'll still run with the mobile since I can shut it down over the winter or months we're not using it. It's probably a wash in the long run for the Mobile vs the Mini as the Mini cost is cheaper until you hit the data usage limit which we probably would since I upload videos on the road quite a bit.

Not what I was hoping to hear. We live in a rural area and have been using a line of sight solution where a Cooperative put dishes on cell towers. They installed one on my barn and works very well, only $60 a month, unlimited and I see speeds in the 80-90 GB down and 8-10DB up. Hate to have to use at home to make use of the mini.

Now after reading Steph & Dud's post and fix, I'm surprised Oliver didn't have an immediate answer, since Steph & Dud shared the info on the burnt connector previously. In any event the issue was solved.

For anyone interested in the Atmos 4.4. This is a installation PDF with nice pics of first installation at SDG factory. ATMOS 4.4 Dreiha Atmos 4-4 AC Installation.pdf $1350 shipped, good support through SDG $1150 local pickup Another label, same unit as far as I can tell. TOSOT TST-RV-GC15K-User_manual_230707.pdf 15% off coupon: SMERMM15 $1,212.74 shipped, unsure about support Not sure if the units use same APP for WIFI but is available for both. From what I understand, you will need to wire a thermostat where the old Dometic thermostat is for furnace control. @jd1923 got a quote for this through SDG for about $50. T-stat for controlling furnace. Still waiting to hear about compatibility or need for Micro-Air Easy Touch wifi thermostat (what I am currently using and love). But if the App works great, who cares. If you do use the WIFI thermostat that SDG/Atmos offers it is IR connected and needs direct line of site to unit for it to work. Best, Mike

Against The Wind Posted Sunday at 01:44 PM Hello all! Just joined your wonderful forum a few days ago. We are a retired couple from Tennessee who are looking forward to owning a Legacy Elite II someday in the near future. So we’re newbie wannabes right now. We made the mistake, I guess, of first looking on line at the Legacy Elite II and now everything else just seems subpar. So, we’re pretty much sold out of the gate on Oliver’s quality and customer satisfaction. We continue to learn every day, mostly from this forum and other research what it’s like to own a travel trailer and why other brands of rv’s should be avoided. Once again, hello and we look forward to getting to know you all.

I’m thinking of purchasing a small power station (Jackery/Goal Zero…) to power my Engel refrigerator and as a backup for power outages here at the Fort. The Engel could be used under the canopy in the back of either truck, or in the ATC Cougar. Thoughts? Also posted on Wander the West…

Hello all! Last week I turned on my Norcold fridge (Elite I, 2022) and set it on AC to get cold prior to leaving as usual. It didn't get cold and it showed an "A" code of not having AC power. AC power was on to everything else. I used propane and it got cold and went on. At the campsite again it would not run on AC. I removed the bottom drawer to check that it was plugged in and it was. I called Mike at Oliver and he said to check the wiring at the breaker to see that it was tight and if ok then replace the outlet as it might be bad. I didn't have my tester but used a hairdryer and found no power to the outlet but all other outlets worked fine. Once home I used my tester and discovered power coming from the breaker was normal but the outlet was dead. I removed the wiring and find no power to this outlet while all other outlets and breakers have power testing normally. I called Oliver again and Mike said he couldn't help me and I'd have to take it to a service center. I've done some electrical wiring at home and in our old pop-up adding and replacing breakers, wiring, circuits, etc. Any suggestions?

How does “Dishy Mcflatface” aka Starlink actually work? I found this video absolutely fascinating to watch.

Not a problem! Their email said I was invited since I was an "early" Starlink customer so not sure what information is available to everyone who aren't already using them. Happy to research anything else if you need it.

@Half Fast Hugo Thanks Hugo for the fine-print details, any future info anyone gleans would also be appreciated. I agree with @Geronimo John it maybe awhile before this mini becomes available in an RV/camping/travel package. I will be really interested if and when it does. I do like what the future mounting possibilities could be with this mini dish.

Interesting. There was no factory tape over the levers on my Wago connectors. Maybe they skipped that step on mine?

Romex is household electrical cable, usually white or whitish gray, that contains 3 wires: black, white, bare. Yes, 3 connectors: hot (black wires), neutral (white), ground (bare). They splice the feed line, water heater, and fridge lines together. I put a bend in both Romex just before the connectors and tied the Romex together before the bend with zip ties. This was to prevent cable movement from pulling directly on the connectors. Everything in the junction box. The box is what prevented a possible fire. Electrical tape.

We have the Goal Zero 400 Lithium Power Pack. It is my home back-up to run my CPAP if there is an outage. I take it on every camping trip. I will use it to power our top loading fridge if we don't have shore power at night, and then recharge while driving.

@Patriot This is very interesting and probably made us wait on more information. We were ready to pull trigger on Gen 3 but will wait a little longer now. Thanks for the update!! Scott

Not exactly! When I've had a bad RV AC unit, after disconnecting the 4 mounting bolts in the interior, we (my son Adam) will climb up rooftop and heave the POS (usually a Dometic unit) to the gravel drive below. I tell my son lovingly, just hit the gravel and nothing else! Sorry @Geronimo John, re your comment, these are closed systems and NOBODY services a leak, you just replace the unit with something better on the market today, as we have ALL been discussing! Truck transmissions are another story! The "Sealed Transmission" 100K+ warranty is merely marketing hype. You better service these, unless you are the guy who trades up every few years (that guy is NOT me). Our '08 Lexus GX 4.7l V8 trans is "sealed" no dipstick, no way to ad trans oil from above... Soon after we purchased of this truck at 160K mile, I pulled the pan, replaced the filter and via the trans cooler hoses, with a funnel/gravity feed, I replaced 98% of the trans fluid. Do this service to yours prior to 100K miles. Toyo gas engines with proper care can last 500K miles, only to be compared to a Cummins diesel! Our GX will outlive me for sure and in another 20K miles I will do the timing belt/water pump service required on all Toyos! most qualified service stations can do this for you, just need to ask! 🤣 We also have a 2000 Lincoln LS (Jaguar platform, bought it 4 years ago with only 11K miles, OMG an awesome small sedan!) with the "sealed trans." I worked that service last fall. It is not any easy service. You need to fill the trans from under the truck, checking level at proper temp at the special drain valve. Use it, maintain it, or lose it. They want you to lose it, so you purchase another. Not me. We don't buy into the deep state of .gov and the companies that are only in it for war and money. Again... 🤣! Love you guys, y'all are great!

****** If I could have found the Knob and Lock Washer, I would not have needed to fabricate something that will stay secure. Time will tell. Some unlucky vehicle may find the Knob stuck into their tire, remove it, and build an Oliver Elite II. ??? "For the want of a knob, the Oliver was lost."

Follow-up from Kevin and SDG --

Ours is the same vintage as Dave's (see pic). I took this when we first purchased our Oliver last year, so I don't have to crane my neck looking down there. @Steph and Dud B likely has the right reason if they are on the same circuit, what the... I was thinking of this today, after I first read the initial post. Been working on mine a lot lately. Was looking to see if there were any GCFI outlets as a cause, but my Oliver seems to have none. @Ron and Phyllis Does the Suburban HWH run off of 120VAC at this time? I would check that first. And if it were mine, I'd add a breaker, run another AC run and fix the larger issue (what was OTT thinking)?

Our other trailers all had separate breakers for the fridge and water heater. This 20 amp circuit was a surprise.

This is unexpected, and a little concerning. On my 2015 LE1, the water heater and refrigerator have separate fuses, as they should. So to Ron and Phyllis, check your panel! Dave

Here's the link to our thread about this failure: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/7188-120v-wiring-failure-good-news-on-fridge-outlet/

This happened to us. In our 2022, a single 20 amp breaker runs both the fridge and the Suburban water heater. There was a junction box on the side of the water heater (under the bed) and I found one of the wire connectors inside melted, leaving the circuit to the fridge dead. It looked like the connector wiggled loose and overheated. After replacing the connector, I added some zip ties to minimize movement of the wiring during travel.

How did you test this? I ask because if the problem you have is a grounding issue, then you may still have power to the receptacle. If you tested by using the hot and neutral wires supplied at the plug, and the neutral is bad, then your meter will show no power. Most all of my electrical issues have been with bad (loose) grounds. Hook up your meter to your supply (hot) wire and use another neutral/ground to see if you get power. If you do, then you know it's a grounding issue and you can start tracing that back to the bad connection. If you still have no power using a different ground, then most likely it is a supply line issue, so work back from there. Also, since your receptacle is out and disconnected, I'd do a continuity check to be sure it is functional. Finally, I have the Dometic 3-way refrigerator and there is a 5amp fuse for the AC heater hidden away in a control box attached to the back of the refir, accessed by removing the lower vent outside. Check your manual to see about yours. Time to buy a multimeter if you don't already have one! These issues can be challenging to trace. Just be methodical and don't ignore the grounding side of the tests. Good luck. Dave I edited this for some better clarity...I hope.

Just a great excuse to extricate ourselves from killer June temps in northern NM - we joined the SKP’s club and are at their rally in Rock Springs, WY. Grilled artichokes, shrimp, and fresh garden salad for chow… Cheers All!

@KfSmit - FYI, Patriot is spot on with his description and how you might consider going forward with an acquision, IMO. If you're considering a used OTT, its service records are key. However, they could be meaningless to you unless you "know" the Oliver. Suggestion: Read these forums from old to new. Learn how they're laid out by topical areas. Focus on the "Mechanical and Technical Tips", "Oliver Modifications", and "Towing an Oliver". Take your time, mull over issues, problems, and fixes that others have solved. Go back to the oldest posts you can find. Read them. Study. Understand the common challenges and opportunities many of us have experienced with this rig. You'll be amazed. The knowledge you'll gain from this endeavor will be priceless. After scanning these diatribes, you'll be able to examine service records, owner upgrades, and modifications and be able to make sense of them and determine if they were done correctly or not after surveying that particular rig. Depending on your background and experience with RV's, a certified appraiser would be money well spent. The "bones" of an Oliver are strong, as mentioned earlier, they are not over-complicated -- but they do require an understanding of routine maintenance to remain functional and safe while towing and camping. We've probably put north of 7k miles on ours since the first of the year - Casablanca has behaved remarkably. This is a consistent underpinning of the brand. They're tough. But they need attention - not neglect. Take care of your kit - it will take care of you. Do not hesitate to reach out to the owners on these forums and ask questions, seek advice, and know that you'll receive sound feedback. Good luck in your search and enjoy every moment of it - the right unit will come along at the right time, I'm sure of it because we did the same thing you're doing now 3 years ago, brother! Cheers!

@topgun2 - Found the Cowboy Donut Shop in Rock Springs - it was actually featured on the "Food Network"! Very YUMMY, in deed... Headed north to Jackson on Wednesday, absolutely fantastic - western WY! Cheers!

I did a side-by-side comparison of the specs. First the 9.5K (w heat pump option) vs. the 13.5K, In the last columns I compared the 15K with the "condensate pump." This unit may connect to the OTT condensate plumbing and I wonder if this would alleviate the humidity issue. At first glance the 9.5K unit is 2/3rds the weight and much smaller. The 13.5K is 5" longer and 11" wider but with the fan on LOW is the quietest at 47 dB and on high pushes 318 CFM some 35% more air flow than the 9.5K model!

I have the Truma Aventa Eco in my LE2. I believe it is a 13.5 btu unit. It seems to drop the temperature down from mid 90s within about 10 minutes or less and that is in full sun. A smaller unit should be able to handle it, but it will run longer. On the flip side, an AC unit that runs for a longer amount of time will remove more humidity, so if you live in northern climates with cooler temps and higher humidity, a smaller unit is the right way to go in my opinion.

Yesterday high was 97 in Prescott, today milder and although this is more like August temps, we sat on our deck and do so every evening. When 90+ is the daytime high, we will be in the 70's by dinner time, sitting on our deck that gets the evening shade. We lived in the Austin burbs for 9 years. If midday in the summer, it Could be 107 and dry, or 93 and humid if the winds were coming from the gulf. Had a tennis coach once say, who was brought up in the country between H-town and Corpus, for 5 months it's Swamp-A$$! His words. We always remembered this coach for this and many reasons. That would be your hood @Ronbrink and not much different from your location @CRM, both coastal gulf swamp-a$$ locations. Yes, everything is bigger in Texas! Loved our time there. We also spent 4 years in S FLA in the WPB area, and if it was possible, we would have preferred being closer to Ft Myers, or miles +/- from there on the gulf coast. Our country has so many great spots to visit, just travel at the right time of year. No swamp-a$$ out here. AC units run more efficiently in dry air. Why are we home for 4 months of the summer, every year, while y'all are pulling you Olivers out of storage and traveling, some of it climate painful!? If say today, tomorrow, or over the next 3 months, we venture off the mountain to go ANYWHERE, in ANY direction, we drop 3000 FT elevation and climb +20F in the first hour. Our ONLY future summer trip would be to leave in May to get to ID, WY, MN, ND, Canada or en route to Alaska, before it gets too hot. We're home this summer, doing M&R on our newly purchased Oliver and will do a local trip in September, followed by our travel to the 2024 Oliver Texas Rally. Hope to meet you Ron and CRM if you venture the longer trip. We'll see some of you, hopefully more of you, and next thing you know it will be time! 😂

I agree in being against custom fiberglass work, and with Truma you must purchase and install through their dealers only, no DIY units or replacement parts available in the aftermarket. Re Houghton, it appears the relay install is quite simple, instructions on this forum. It could be easily reversed if you had to return the AC unit for warranty replacement. I would work this wiring on the workbench and then install. Being careful, perhaps an hour of work. We have little in humidity concerns out west, but I would install the relay just so most of the night when the temps drop considerably in the mountains the fan stays OFF! My main goal is hush... being very quiet... I have not heard another product recommendation in this regard. Still wondering if their 9.8K BTU is feasible on an Elite II. They say it covers 400 SF which is double the E2 footprint. It is much cheaper, especially without the heat pump and we'll just run the furnace when heat is needed. The smaller unit would also pull less amps on the batteries and would be easier on a 2KW inverter.

Scary scenario. From what I gather, the man reached under his Anderson leveler to pull it out and the truck/trailer rolled a bit, probably from the play present with the parking pins in an automatic transmission (I know my truck can move an inch or two before the parking pins engage.) This is why you never put your fingers underneath anything that could take a load (tires, jacks, cribbing, etc.). Also why I always walk back to the cab of my truck to verify it's in Park and the brake is set before I lift the trailer off the ball or pull any chocks. In addition, I double check the chocks and leave the safety chains on when I lift the trailer off the ball. I did have a truck/trailer combination start to roll on me once because I forgot to put it in Park. We also once had a "toad" car behind a neighbor's motorhome roll across the road and hit our trailer when they forgot to put it in park before unhitching. Large vehicles moving unexpectedly is very scary. https://blog.campingworld.com/lifestyle-activities/you-need-to-hear-this-story-before-you-go-boondocking-all-alone/