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For those who are in the Midwest and near a Blain’s Farm and Fleet, they are having a buy three get one free sale on tires (including Cooper Discoverer HT3) right now. Even if you don’t buy from Blain’s, Discount tire will honor the pricing.

Bite the bullet, and buy the one with the charger, battery and case. Especially if you plan to carry it with you on trips. Exchange the coupler for a LockNLube and you are better than good to go. All neat and tidy in a case that won't allow the grease that will inevitably ooze out, collect dirt to get onto everything else you will be carrying. This would not be an issue if all your trips are short and you're always back home before it's time to grease up again. Our average trip is >5K miles, so our GG usually makes the trip with us.

Yes -- I now have both 1/4" and 5/16" wrenches. Plus I purchased a socket and a short-handled driver in order to access the zerks that are hidden 'around the corner' (not accessible with a regular wrench). I have two different sizes, because the existing zerks need 5/16" -- but the replacements need 1/4" (the head -- or would you call that a nut -- is different). These tools fit -- we tested them. The threads are all "28".

Thanks, he therein further confirms my thought on the matter. My recently acquired 12,000 joules ‘sacrificial lamb’ with circuit analyzer for less than 50$ before tax.

Rachelle here, picking up soon!

We towed with two different Ram 1500’s and now with a Ram 2500 (77,000 miles). There really isn’t any noticeable difference in the ride between the 1500’s and our current 2500, towing or not towing. I don’t mess with tire inflation, what’s on the door frame is what’s in the tires. The 2500 is taller and larger inside, but the ride is fine. The Chevy LTZ is a fine choice. Go for a test drive, you’ll be surprised how they smooth out the ride in the bigger trucks. Mike

The EZ Flex kit I installed on LE2 #75 has 2.25" shackles. Assume that's a typo beside the photo saying 2" since you said 2.25" earlier.

Here is another article on surge protectors from Mike Sokol. He stated using a cheaper surge protector at the post as a sacrificial lamb to protect the wire EMS is OK. In a previous article he recommended using another EMS like the Hughes Watchdog 30amp with EPO that will shut power down at the post. Each owner decides, no post surge protector, a cheap surge protector at the post, or another EMS top of the line surge protector with EPO. https://open.substack.com/pub/rvelectricity/p/are-double-surge-protectors-a-good?r=nq2l8&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=email

You win! Mossey

I tried ORielly's for the bulldogs first. They took my money. Then, without telling me, cancelled the order about a week later. They knew then what I found out later. That Bulldog did not have the parts. I had to request a refund. This is not anyone's fault but mine. This is not 1974. This is 2024. Without getting too philosophical, the Oliver is a complex system. Complex systems do not survive incompetency. Whether it is a space capsule or a travel trailer, you have to anticipate incompetency and plan around it. Parts, service, whatever. Every aspect of your life. Plan for it. I made the mistake of thinking that the Bulldogs were just magically going to be available.

@Boudicca908 I invested in a Milwaukee a M12 drill/driver about 6 years ago and I have added about 6 additional tools from the M12 family. I usually just buy the bare tools because I don’t need any more chargers. I buy from who ever has the best price which is typically Home Depot around Black Friday when they usually have the best prices on tools and batteries. I will admit that when I see the battery powered grease gun sitting on the shelf, I think that it was a waste of money! When I get on a creeper and scoot under the Ollie and grease the zerks, I think that it maybe the best tool I ever invested in. Mossey

Congrats on that! My TV is a 2023 Chevy 2500 Silverado HD -- and I love it. If you can, find the one with the larger console (in lieu of the dinky console and "3rd" front seat. The only comparison I can make though is to my old OLD 1977 Ford 150 that I purchased used in 1993 -- it was a Florida Power & Light Service Truck and it had those great tool boxes on the sides, and it was ORANGE because, you know, Florida Power & Light. I bought that truck when I was started a major house remodel. I loved that truck, too, but it was much rougher on the road than my new Silverado. I suggest the test ride as mentioned by others. There is a decent handle to grab to pull yourself up -- and in my opinion the FLAT SHAPED permanent step is a must-have add-on with this vehicle. I had to order that step separately from the truck.

Rabbit Hole: OK... how about jacking up one side with the rear levelers, remove the rims on that side (take them with you where ever you're leaving to), torque down a keyed lug nut on one or more studs on the rimless wheels...? I'm thinking that would really slow 'em down.

I use the "Collar" parked or driving. The chains are locked up when parked. I use the "Proven Industries Hitch Lock" I would like to replace the Puck lock that came with it with a Conical Puck lock so it can't be drilled out. I also have a 6 foot Abus hardened chain that I put through the Rims on one side when parked. Everywhere the I need a paddle lock I have used a 3/8 Abus granite harden lock and all locks are keyed a like. They are difficult to pick, and break. I know this may be overkill and nothing is fool proof, but the more difficult to steal, greater chance they will move on to an easier target. When the truck is attached, I have an Alarm system, and a way to keep from the truck from starting. A good thief can steal the Ford 7.3 super duty trucks in under 30 seconds. If the Oliver is attached and you are in a store you could lose everything. I am sure there are other tow vehicles that are just as vulnerable.

I also use The Collar and an Abus disk lock to secure the Bulldog coupler. Both were sourced from Heartland Lock. I prefer The Collar over other coupler locks, since it can be used to secure the trailer when both hitched and unhitched. In addition, I purchased a pair of chrome steel ball bearings from Amazon. I must give credit to @John E Davies. See:

@Mike Spies Try this method while using Google's search function, you might find your own post. site:olivertraveltrailers.com 'GPS tracker' Mossey

That looks wonderful TYVM!

I second the recommendations for both Davis Mountains SP and the McDonald Observatory. A few nights each week the Observatory has a Star Party evening with lots of telescopes set up and guides to show where certain stars and constellations are in the sky. On a cloudless night it’s pretty fascinating. The 1800’s Army Post of Fort Davis is a National Parks site and is also worth a visit. Mike

Or you could just lift the side of the Ollie that has the troublesome zerk with the rear jack. The idea of lifting the trailer is to remove the downward pressure on the suspension system. And do either of these procedures while the Ollie is connected to your truck. If you are going to be under the trailer and you don’t have any jack stands to support the trailer while working on the suspension, be sure to place wood blocks or what ever you use under your jacks when setting up, under the frame as a safety measure. Stay safe! Mossey

If you are just trying to lift the tire that is associated with the zerk that is not accepting grease, the trailer aid will probably work. I wouldn’t take the wet bolt out, but I would remove the zerk fitting for cleaning or replacement. If the bolt has to come out, I suggest going to a trailer shop and letting the professionals handle it. And if you are going to continue doing your own grease jobs, invest in a battery powered grease gun. Mossey

Go back to page 1-2 and look at the picture of the failed steel, poorly hardened. Buying heavier but same level of quality IMHO is asking for the same failure. i was first of the belief these would be too heavy. When I can, I’ll go with the new product @Mountainman198 brought to our attention and @MAX Burner, @ScubaRx and several others have proven to improve ride and dependability! it’s similar to replacing a Dometic A/C with another. 🤣

That's the route I think I'll be going, too. We travel light and I don't see the need for springs with any higher capacity than that.

Yes the Alcan springs many have purchased are a better made spring..... but it is not the right choice for a growing number of owners that are fully considering all sides of this "agree to disagree" topic. In the opinion of several non-involved spring vendors, for our OE2 trailers, replacing a 1750 pound spring with a more expensive 2700 pound one is an expensive effort to achieve an oversprung load. Not saying that doing so is bad for some frequent extreme off-roading boondocking users, just that for the fleet in general, it is NOT believed to be THE recommended solution. So instead of repeating the same confirmation bias we have heard on both sides of this issue, let's just sit back and see what OTT is going to use on their future year models. My guess is that it will NEVER be a 2700 pound rated 5 leaf spring for the fleet in general use by OE2's. Why? Here I go again... It would be oversprung for general fleet use. PS: My Dexter PB-4 2400 pound four leaf springs fit perfectly and are doing just fine. GJ

I suspect that the lighter rated springs oscillate at a higher frequency and travel more than they would with stiffer leaf springs causing the OEM shocks to wear out sooner than expected. Our new Monroe's lasted less than a year before replacing them when we upgraded to the D52s.

Please explain your motivation for wanting to de-rate these springs.

As mentioned in an earlier rant, we did the "ride-along" test before and after replacing the spring packs... Over a 3+mile course over improved but rutty country roads, there was no "felt" difference at speeds up to 25mph, before/after. Higher speeds may show different results. Riding back there wasn't anything like the difference riding in our 2016 (stock) RAM 3500 and our 2022 (almost stock) TUNDRA. Huge difference between the two. Although the RAM rode like a "buckboard" (I don't think it would scramble eggs) but the TUNDRA rides like a car, soft yet sure footed. Actually, I was somewhat impressed how stiff the ride felt before changing spring packs. DBo (Dusten Bowden, an 18-yr OTT Veteran) has concluded that OTTs are way under sprung for their construction. JFTR: He was very impressed with the Alcan upgrade and would recommend them for any owner, especially for those that have experienced 4-pack spring failure - as its a perfect time for upgrading. Someone correct me if I'm mistaken, but I believe Mr. Oliver insisted on 5-packs and 5.2k# axles on both his rigs... FYI and as it may be known, OTT is no longer installing 3.5k# axles on their new LE2 rigs (LE1's have alway had 5.2k# Dexters) - so, like Steve mentioned above, perhaps 5-packs may come in the future. We believe that will be an overall improvement to what we consider an already well engineered product. At the end of the day, the "spring-pack/axle" discussion boils down to individual camping style and personal preference, IMO. The probability of us breaking one or more of our previous 4-pack leaf springs, I'm sure, is a low one. However, I know how we roll - I'm the guy that would break a Chinese 4-pack halfway out on the 14-mile washboard road to Chaco Canyon or on the way to "Moving Rocks" near Furnace Springs, Death Valley. I'd have a spare 4-pack with me, of course - but another one would break on me on the way back after swapping! The discussion does not have a "go/no-go" solution set - it's an "it depends" solution, IMO. Like @Patriot sez, "Roll-ON", regardless... Cheers, All!

I spent all day yesterday installing Alcon leaf springs, Alcon U-bolts and new Monroe shocks on our trailer. I did the work myself and have to say that I recommend tackling it yourself if you have even average mechanical abilities and a torque wrench. I haven't had time to give it a test tow yet but am optimistic that the tow to the rally will be trouble free.

WoW, thank you for this incredibly thorough explanation and photos of your trouble and solution for the Norcold refrigerator. Very helpful!