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We'll have 4 peaceful overnights in this beautiful and mostly quiet BLM lands. Quiet except for occasional UTVs passing by to run the shelf road to the top of Harquahala Mountain! (3 groups so far on this Sunday.) We got 100 yards off the main road and all I hear are the insects of the Sonoran Desert (perhaps too dry here for many birds). Not one sound overnight! Up close and personal with the Cholla and Saguaro cactus! 75F this afternoon and should reach 85 in a couple days! Drinking coffee this morning, in shorts, shirt off, basking in the Arizona sun. From I-10, halfway between Phoenix and Quartzsite, take Salome Rd to Eagle Eye Rd north. Or take Eagle Eye Rd south off US Hwy 60 at Aguila AZ. The roads are all paved until you get to the staging area and the road to the top is of course dirt, where decades ago there was a Smithsonian observatory. Our tow vehicle is only 2WD and I'm not much for hairy shelf roads anyway! I'd like to drive up close enough to hike the rest of the climb. We'll check it out soon! We each have a good book to read and getting some sun and warmth (got cold and snowing in Prescott) and much needed rest, is all we need to finish up this trip! 😎

My post was not meant in any way to be a complaint about my Oliver or the company. I believe Olivers are the best built trailer in the market. We have had nothing but wonderful interactions with the employees also. They have always treated us just like family. The quality shows after about 110 days camping in it in 2025 (90% boondocking). The post was only to help others with the issue if they experience it. Other owners post have helped me so much in the past. I will fill out a service ticket on Monday so Oliver can be aware of this. We LOVE our Oliver Elite ll.

I know that the general subject of quality control has been on the minds of a number of members of the Forum - particularly recently concerning the issues with the battery box support post. I can tell everyone that Oliver does have a fairly extensive quality control system and procedures. Unfortunately, these systems and procedures simply didn't exist back in the day when 2015, 2016 and probably 2017 units came off the production line. However, it does exist now. In the Forum guidelines the Moderators have requested: "Some have asked why our forum is linked to the Oliver website. Valid question. Since the beginning of our forum in 2008, Oliver Travel Trailers (OTT) has paid for our Oliver “sandbox”, including our web space and an administrator who knows way more than we do about maintaining the software, for which we are very grateful. OTT DOES NOT CENSOR OR INTERFERE with the moderators’ management of the forum content. Moderators are not employees of OTT. We are Ollie owners, and receive no remuneration. OTT does have a employee designated to read the forum for the purpose of improving the “Ollie Experience” for all, but that’s a few minutes a day in a busy job description. If you should ever have an issue or a warranty claim, call tech support. Your post might not be seen on the forum by an Oliver employee. With that in mind, we moderators ask you to communicate directly with the company and afford them an opportunity to satisfy any serious needs before flaming OTT on the forum. We are not asking that anything to be swept under the rug. Just, please, let Oliver Travel Trailers have the first shot to meet and exceed your expectations." Specifically in answer to the question, "Are they reading?" the answer is more than likely - NO. Therefore, the only way that we (the owners of an Oliver trailer) have to inform Oliver of a quality control issue is to fill out a Service Ticket. Bill p.s. for those that have not recently viewed the full set of Forum Guidelines, they can be see HERE

David & Gail - Hopefully you either have or will have time to submit your repair to the Oliver Service Department. There is obviously a problem in this area. Thanks! Bill

These are very good reasons. We're all different and we all have choices. I am the DIY guy in anything automotive, electrical and mechanical systems. For example, I only pay for an alignment after I've replaced every suspension part myself. I learned solar/inverter system installations on a Bigfoot Class that had none to start. Installed rooftop panels using only VHB tape, drilling only two 1/4" holes for the wires, a dab of Dicor on each. Installed a PD 1800 KW inverter/charger and customized the AC power panel to be a split bus panel (sawed the bus in two, one for A/C and one for inverted circuits)! The graphic below from PD gave me the insight I needed to do so. "Should we ever sell? No way, never! 🤣 I still have my 1984 Goldwing Standard restored to factory condition. Two Lexus, a 1992 SC400 and '08 GX470 both restored. Call our son Adam lucky, as none of these, especially our Oliver, will ever be sold. They will one day be his, always kept in the family. When you put 100s or in this case 1000s of hours in our now amazing hull #113, she's here to stay, and should in its present condition outlive me! That hull named XPLOR has had only the best of love and care! Likely the best looking, best outfitted hull out there! My bet is... David will never sell! 😎

Thank you everyone, this forum is awesome support

@jd1923, I also have the Noco Genius 10 for maintaining the chassis batteries on my motorized RVs. Last summer I accidentally let the chassis battery on my Pleasure Way discharge completely. After using the repair mode on the charger, it's been holding a full charge. Noco claims the repair mode pushes up to 16.5 volts to reverse battery sulfation and stratification caused by storage at low charge. Maybe @DBL-R can restore the existing batteries with such a charger.

Ron, You've had good advice to check the converter fuses. If that is not the issue, then iI's time to break out a voltage meter. 1) Disconnect shore power, and your battery tender, then check voltage at the battery (it's probably the 12.4 as you were seeing). 2) Reconnect shore power and check voltage at the same location, it should be higher which would indicate if your converter is converting and charging. If not, the converter is bad. Update: I looked at the converter manual link from above. The converter has 3 stages of output, each with a different voltage of 14.4, 13.6 and 13.2. One of those voltage values is what you should see when you test the battery on shore power. The manual also has a section that describes a simple test to absolutely confirm it's faulty before replacement. Be mindful that electrical problems are elusive and tricky, so the manual's test is important. As Jd suggested, the batteries are older and you could upgrade to lithiums. That would be a big improvement. However, unless there are pages missing from the manual, it looks like your converter is for lead acid batteries only. So if you upgrade batteries, also upgrade the converter. Fortunately, repair kits are available to replace the converter/charger section of the older PD units, and that also upgrades them to lithium chargers at the same time! Also, you would need to check/set your solar charger profile for lithium batteries. Looks like you're making good progress! Geoff

Okay, shore power looks good, but battery is dead! Sounds like you had been using outdoor solar to keep the batteries charged, then moved the trailer into the garage where there is no solar charging. If you didn't have shore power connected right away, then normal parasite power could have drained down the batteries and they just haven't had enough time to charge yet. A deeply discharged lead-acid battery looks almost like a short circuit to the charger initially. The battery voltage is so low that the converter/charger dumps maximum current into it trying to bring it up, which could cause brownouts both on the AC and DC power circuits. Deep discharge cycles and age can also degrade batteries, so they may not be charging, or they could be acting like a short. A faulty converter/charger can cause similar issues. It could have been weak or bad for a while, but un-noticed if you were solar charging. They can degrade and still work, but at a lower output. Where are you reading voltage? This could provide clues. To answer your question, yes a tender will charge both of your batteries at the same time. That would be a good next step.

After seeing this thread I decided to check my battery support this morning. I really didn't expect to see any problem, but I received a surprise. My battery box support had two holes with no bolts. After some searching I found the bolt heads peeking out from around the wiring harness and after getting those I lifted the wiring harness and found the nuts. The idea of using a small bottle jack in this thread worked for me. I was able to place a 4 ton jack in there and raised the bracket until the holes were aligned enough to start the bolts, but I could not get them to go all the way. The angle of the bracket was off. I chose to use a small c-clamp on the bracket going from curb side to street side, that allowed the bolts to go through enough to get the nuts started. Finished it up with some blue Loctite on the threads. I have enclosed some photos of the repair. Finding this on my one year old Oliver was not expected. I would encourage everyone to check this support bracket on your Oliver to prevent future problems.

Yes that’s the old man slow poke method we’re all used to, but not nearly as fast and absolutely doesn’t seem to get the same depth of results.

Chris - Ideas? Heavy mods like axles, air conditioners, inverters, batteries, etc.? Light mods like cloths lines, cedar lining in pantry/closet bottoms, paper towel holders, entry step covers, etc.? Routine maintenance items like jacks, bearings, winterization, descaling, etc.? You're doing a great job on this - please keep it up! Bill

@DBL-R Based on my 2018 wiring diagram, I have 3 - 25 (or 30 in your case) amp fuses which are called Reverse Battery Fuses. Strange that your system calls for 30 amp. As indicated in this post, check the batteries for property wiring and then check the Reverse Battery Fuses to make sure they are not blown. Not sure why you do not have 3 fuses in place. It might be a good idea to call OTT to confirm the 3 fuses in your Ollie are required. Good luck

I'm sure when Dave logs in, he will have some good advice here! I'm thinking the caulk on our older hulls is silicone. I've removed a lot of it except over the wheel wells. Whenever we tow on dirt roads you can see dirt collect where there is and was silicone. I also do not think silicone caulk will accept paint.

David, I believe Bill's note was addressed to my comment (not yours) which made me think. So I removed a sentence I had written that was in poor taste. Your post will help me in my repair and others who may have this issue. You demonstrated excellent work which others can follow. Wow, 110 days in your first year, 90% Boondocking! Those are good numbers! We have 150 overnights in two years 60% Boondocking. Our percentage will go up now that we can run our A/C off the inverter! The only reason to plug in was to run the A/C when we ran into hot weather more often than we liked!

At 9 volts the diehard's have likely already died. Good news on having 120V, at least you are not totally toasted. The batteries appear to be 12V wired in parallel. I'm 90% sure they are gonners. Don't just replace them until you get a volt meter and can test the output of your battery charger. They are called Converters. You'll need a volt with clamp on amp meter or a friend who has one. Post back with what you find. GJ

Ron, 9 volts is critically low, you've got a dead or dying battery situation, and everything else is a symptom of that. Due to a lack of information, I'd guess your shore power is dead or faulty. This would result in battery not charging, and the TV (120vac or 12vdc) is not getting needed volts. Same thing with the 12 volt dc stereo, only it has different tolerance to low voltage and that's probably why either one or the other was working. If battery was dead, your lights and stereo should still work from the converter/charger that converts 120vac shore power 12vdc. More evidence of bad shore power. There could be other causes, but shore power is a likely culprit with the information provided so far. Geoff

David, excellent work and thank you for proving my hypothesis re the bottle jack and that some lift will be required to set the battery box straight. I’ll be working mine soon even though the battery door on ours has been straight for 10 years. I believe the angle re the two beams is due to the curve of the hull, all pics show the same. I’ll bet, you did not expect this on your brand new Oliver! Yours should still be under warranty for anything that may come up.

This is our 4th stay here. Very nice park and nice view.

First time here, we met this guy! 😎

I just received a call back from Oliver parts so I just ordered from them what they use. Someone on here asked what type of adhesive Oliver uses. I’ll know for sure after I receive the replacement part but looking at what I removed, it appears the adhesive was probably already on the gasket.

Hello @Mroth, this is not truly my area of expertise, but given how many holes are drilled in OTT installation processes, and that I have removed many of the old-tech products on our Oliver, I've filled way too many holes! I've used this epoxy based product and the color match is good. It's just a touch whiter than our older hull and I've read somewhere that the newer hulls are a tone brighter. I would say this product may work well for your purpose in the shower. It's simple and inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Tex-RM305K-White-oz/dp/B0014419V0/ I have also plugged the holes made for the TV mount, the drain pull handle in the bathroom, the door hook outside, both cameras and everything in these pics (see before and after).

I'm not sure how useful this would be to others. I got tired of typing into google site:https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/ "some search term". This little html file works fantastic, but I had my Claude.AI create a page I could keep on my local computer, maybe on the desktop, where I can simply type in my search term and all the results only come from the forums pages, but via Google Results. Try it out. It's a single HTML document. Download it and type in something you wish to search for in these forums. I use Claude AI for work and find it to be the best in coding. oliver-forum-search.html

Sure - but - you're in Hawaii paragliding and wave surfing. 😇 Bill

Thank you Zodd! I was starting to get a headache with all the above stuff flying by me at Warp 10. I'm glad Chris, JD and Ollie are on top of this for us. I'll remain confused and happy, GJ

For those that don’t want or know how to set this up locally You can also do a google search of just the forms natively with google by starting your search with the forum URL like this. “https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums tire pressure”

Lol, this should be easy for our friend @Chris Scarff! He could add a field in the app to enter a website URL. Anyway, Chris and I, others have done this for years... Enter: "site:www.domain_name.com followed by search words" and you're good to go!

I'm getting there slowly. Updates I've come up with so far. Only 1.5 minutes long. Ideas are welcome. camper-document-indexer-v008.mp4

I've been using this local html document more lately. Man, I'm searching on things, but then finding so much more that I had missed over the years. I should call this page the Oliver Squirrel Search (OSS). Good stuff. I'd love any feedback, I might be able to add in more options, or "check boxes" to filter more!?

Chris, you are one Rock'in Tech Guy! Works great, love it! 😎 I like how it opens every query in a new tab. Exclude words is a nice feature that I've never been able to use before (wish an Amazon search would return results so clean). Efficient tool (and I say that from years of being website and training content PM and editor). I've used site:craigslist.org <search words> for years to search Craigs nationwide. Awesome, thank you Chris! 😂

Talk of sealants always create quite a stir. Just go on any boating forum, look up sealants and stand back!! What I have used with success is this product: https://marineformula.com/products/marine-formula-10oz-aerosol Yes it's expensive, but I have been successful removing embedded silicone oils from the gelcoat with some wet sanding and a final polish. You will not sand through the gelcoat with 1200 grit paper! I would still do a reseal around the perimeter of your windows/fixtures as this is your first line of defense from water intrusion. It can be done well and look great. It just takes time, a good tape masking job, and an understanding of the ins and outs of the sealant you want to use. You don't know how good the butyl tape (if that is what was used) job was done under the windows during installation. So I would not take chances there. The pic of your window makes me cringe. Whoever did that really had no care for aesthetics or function. Use the Debond (there are also other products, but I haven't used them), a plastic razor to get the bulk of the old sealant off. Then go to the wet sand stage. Try to keep the Debond contained to the work area. Dribble a little on and start scraping. I just "resealed" my fender flares! Strictly an aesthetic decision! I think it looks much better. But certainly not necessary. Dave

I can't answer for GreyGhost but when I replaced my tires about 1.5 months ago I only replaced the four on the road. I had never rotated the spare into the mix. Having said this - I will no longer use the spare for anything other than a very short term spare only on the road long enough to get me to a place where I can repair or replace the damaged tire. Certainly I would not rotate it into the mix with my four new tires. Bill