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Absolutely, but warranty work is another matter. (And, to be fair, Oliver has an excellent warranty.)

Mine has an on/off switch on the front of the remote display. It’s sort of recessed to prevent accidentally turning the surge protector off.

I installed a 500W "xtreme" bilge heater. It is on a thermostat to maintain a temp of ~ 50f. I have used it for the past few winters and have added a special circuit to plug it in. They are available from xTreme heaters and Amazon.

We just returned from our third trip to the factory service center for warranty work and the same problem presented itself again: poor communication. In this case, they were to repair a gelcoat crack near the water heater and do a visual brake inspection. They had the trailer for 2 days. When we arrived at the factory for pickup at 4:30 on the second day I asked the service writer one specific question, "Did you remove the water heater to fix the fiberglass?" I asked this because it had looked to me that the WH would have to come out to address the crack, but the service writer said no, they didn't take out the water heater. Surprised, I double checked, "I don't have to refill my water heater tank?" Again, he said, "No." When we moved to our site for the night, I discovered fresh caulk all around the water heater and an empty WH tank. This is important because, if we had turned our electric water heater on with the tank empty, we would have destroyed the electric heating element. We absolutely should have been told the tank was empty, and if the service writer wasn't sure, he should have checked with the tech. (The tech was smart, though, and did turn off the WH breaker.) Also, I saw the tech's notes on the counter while we were waiting for our paperwork and he noted that we needed new shocks and bushings. I asked the service writer about that, he looked at the notes, and said it "doesn't mean anything." But, when I looked under the trailer later, the bushings were, indeed, badly cracked. Oliver had the trailer for 2 days. I'm surprised they didn't call and ask if I wanted new shocks while it was in their shop waiting for the resin and gelcoat to set. This poor communication at the shop (communication by email/phone before the visit has always been fine) continues a pattern going back to our first warranty trip in 2023. In that case, we went to pick up our trailer after 2 days and found that one of the major items it was in for wasn't even addressed. Overall, we had become so frustrated with service issues that we mailed a letter to Scott Oliver prior to this visit expressing our frustrations and concerns, hoping things would go better this time. We never received a response. Bottom line for us: factory service is hit or miss. We've had some good work there (the fiberglass repair looks great), but there have been serious communications miscues, too. If you need to get service done at the factory, we recommend you keep careful records of all communications and check and verify all work done and everything you're told. Trust but verify.

I have a 2020 model with the Norcold. I have attached some service manuals I found that might be of help. I found them back when I changed out a power board. Hope they help. I never tried doing what you are doing. Norcold board diagnostic.pdfNorcold board diagnostic.pdfNorcold board diagnostic.pdfNorcold board diagnostic.pdf Norcold Service Manual.pdf Norcold power board changeout.pdf

The owners manual says that it actually turns off the surge protector function. I have a small piece of black foam in the switch recess to prevent accidentally turning the surge protector off.

Roger: I note the amount of corrosion in your picture. I don't know where you live or operate, but for a 2021 trailer it could use some corrosion control efforts. Especially the axle tube. GJ

Living on the Northwest coast of Washington we rarely get temperatures low enough to cause freezing issues while in winter storage. It does happen though and the potential for freezing damage does typically raise its head a few times each year while during the winter months. I have been giving some thought to the installation of an electric heater designed to keep warm air moving between the hulls when temps drop into the 10's & 20's. A small, high quality electric heater permanently installed which draws in cabin air and routes it through areas between the lower hulls where plumbing and other temperature sensitive components live could serve the dual purpose of protecting trailer components from freezng and help keep things warmish and dry. I understand this system would only be functional while on shore power. Anyone here designed and installed such a system?

That was my first thought, and a much simpler solution than changing the ducting. The only downside I could see is that it requires 24/7 shore power.

Get 4 new shocks and you may want to go Bulldog brand vs. Monroe. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/bulldog-hd-suspension/bulldog-hd-suspension-shock-absorber/bul0/hd12130656/ https://www.4statetrucks.com/bulldog-hd-shock-absorber-replaces-555001-19-050000007 From what I can tell in your picture, the upper bushings on the original shocks were badly over-tightened causing the rubber bushings to fail prematurely. Your picture shows too many threads up top leaving very little spacing for the rubber. You want to tighten these so that the rubber is just mushrooming and not much more.

THIS thread directly applies to the bushing question - particularly see the last post regarding the appropriate amount of "bluge" . Bill p.s. by typing in "Monroe Shocks" the Forum's search function will return more information of the subject of shocks in general.

HERE is just ones of those posts on the subject of alternative(s) to the Monroe shocks. Bill

Some of mine look like that. There's a couple of threads talking about alternatives to the Monroes.

It's likely those shocks are shot.

I'd agree with this if the bottom leaf was an overload type that didn't make contact with the leaf pack until a certain weight was exceeded. With the Alcan springs the bottom leaf is arced and looks to be always adding stiffness to the pack. Could be wrong.. Good question for Alcan.

Thanks for this post. I just completed the install the same way as @tallmandan. I would like to add that my attachment was very difficult to unscrew. Not sure if four years ago GM/Chevy made them differently...but mine had lock tight in the screw attachment. I would advise anyone doing this install to be very careful while attempting to unscrew the attachment. The cable is power over coax. The attachment is just a crimped connector. I had to fold back the rubber casing and grip it very tightly with a wrench to get mine undone. If the crimped attachment spins it will strip out very easily!

I haven't taken the Oli on it, but I bicycled over it. I did it in late June. It snowed a few inches made the bike ride a little tough being cold and wet. I would take my Oli over it.

So that's what it looks like...this is all I saw pulling my Casita over it in late May... 1455955256_BeartoothPass.mov

Put on 50k miles since repair. No changes or movement. Craig hull 505 (Galway Girl)