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The recent posts about adding lights to the rear and tongue reminded me to share this. There had also been a few previous posts about the bright exterior lights, and some mentioned adding dimmers. We've added these dimmers to ours. From what I've read, Oliver has changed the way the exterior lights are switched over the years so this modification may not work for everyone. On our 2022 LE2, the four Porch lights on both sides of the trailer are on a single switch, as are the lower Courtesy lights. The Porch lights are quite bright, which can be very annoying, especially to neighbors on the streetside. Though we can just use the awning light if we need to keep the streetside dark, sometimes we like less intense lighting. These dimmers replace the rockers in the original control panel. It's an easy modification, but requires enlarging the rocker hole slightly. We also added a dimmer to the Main Cabin lights. (Note: the blue light ring in the picture doesn't indicate whether the light is on/off, it's always on or off depending on a separate setting.) Steve

Caulk used Adhesive remover used Plastic razor blades from O’Reilly Razor blade holder also from O’Reilly Bill

I have been wanting to do this modification for a few years now and actually bought the hatch a few years ago but just got around to installing it before this recent trip. I never have liked the shower caddy/shelf in the bathroom vanity. I’ve had it out at least 2 times to work on the faucet and to replace the sink drainpipe. I needed to tighten the nuts on the bolts that go through the propane enclosure and are accessible only under the sink so I took the opportunity to install the marine hatch. Picture of caddy removed and cleaned up using ASI 0240 adhesive remover and plastic razor blades. I never have cared for the way the factory drills holes in the gelcoat. Every factory screw hole I have seen has cracked gelcoat around it. Vanity front taped up and template taped in place. I actually lowered it after this picture was taken. The door doesn’t detach from the flange, and even if it did you couldn’t reassemble it after the flange was mounted. This and the small space that you are working in makes the hatch and flange difficult to position accurately. It helps to make the opening just large enough for the flange to fit into, then you can modify the hole if needed to square up the hatch. I used a coping saw to cut the fiberglass and a sanding drum in a drill to shape the hole. I cut the opening a little small at first but it was easy to open up a bit using the sanding drum and a sanding block. I marked and drilled pilot holes, then screw-sized holes, then chamfered the screw holes with a 1/2 inch chamfer bit. I also cleaned up the factory holes using my chamfer bit. You’ll want to locate and drill 2 holes, one on each vertical side, then temporarily mount the hatch so that you can better mark the remaining holes. Holes not shown in this picture. I placed one layer of butyl tape all around the flange then an additional layer of butyl along the vertical sides. I did this because the front of the vanity has a slight curve and I didn’t want to pull the vertical sides down to meet the vanity surface. I used 10-24 x 1inch stainless steel oval head machine screws, #12 stainless steel flat washers (because that what I had), and 10-24 Stainless steel Nylock nuts to secure the flange to the vanity. Picture after the butyl is through oozing and trimmed flush with the flange. You can’t trim the butyl behind the hinge so be careful how you apply it to the back of the flange on the hinge side. I suggest keeping it back away from the edge 1/16” and hopefully it will extrude evenly as you tighten the machine screws. I’ll talk more about this area later. Taped off for caulking with ASI 335 sealant You can’t caulk the edge behind the hinge. I wasn’t pleased with the way the butyl looked behind the hinge… …So I used a paint stirring stick that had dried latex paint on it (this sealed the end grain of the stick) to “tool” the butyl behind the hinge. This produced a finish that I was pleased with Picture of open hatch. I have yet to relocate the pump switch and light. I am thinking about putting them in a stainless steel bracket just inside the top right of the opening so that the switch can be accessed while seated. Notice the pump switch and light hanging over the p-trap. I’ve got it cable tied there for this trip. Marine hatch used. I think I ordered it off Amazon. I am very pleased with the way this modification turned out and being able to very easily access the area below the sink. I don’t intend to store anything under the sink, I just like being able to see in as many places as possible. Again, apologies to any of my High School English teachers who may be reading this. Bill

Making the popcorn now...

Interesting thread indeed, and it will definitely be interesting to know how Oliver resolves the issue with @Lamar’s cooktop/inverter. It definitely appears that unique design considerations were required with the LE and its more limited power capabilities compared to the LE2 and it’s larger inverter and battery capacity. Depending on the outcome, this experience may initiate design changes for future LE builds. Regarding comments by @jd1923 and @DanielBoondock about induction appliances in their Oliver travels, after more than two seasons in our LE2 we definitely prefer induction for all cooking needs. Whether cooking outside or inside, the quickest, cleanest, simplest and in my opinion safest cooking option in an LE2 with large lithium system and 3k inverter is induction. And for us that includes both with utility connections and boondocking disconnected. Like any electrical system it requires a mind for managing capacity and demand. We actually have two of the induction cooktops @jd1923 mentioned above, and use them simultaneously when needed. The beauty of two separate units is they can be positioned side by side and used like a two burner and not be limited by the settings on the opposite unit. We even have a nice non-stick griddle we place on the dual burner arrangement, with separate controls for each half just like you can on a double burner single unit. For outside cooking, if we have utilities at the site, one gets plugged into the curbside outlet and the other run off the pedestal via a short 12ga extension cord. My eventual plans are to run a separate circuit from an added breaker in the 120v panel to a plug above the galley to facilitate using both induction units simultaneously without overloading a single circuit, keeping in mind the inverter capacity. Simultaneous use of one hot plate and the hot induction kettle would also become an option. As mentioned by @DanielBoondock we always must take into consideration any other appliances such as AC, microwave, induction kettle, and the notorious hairdryer!😉 But once you understand the capabilities of the LE2 and its electrical capacities, induction appliances really open up a lot of options. We love the propane system for unlimited and instant hot water and it’s excellent heating capabilities with the furnace, but for us, the convenience of instant and precise cooking with induction is something we’ve learned to love at home, and now very happy to have while traveling.

I installed Obeaming touch lights and been very pleased, they are dimmable to your desired level of eye comfort and ambiance. I posted the install on this forum. Here’s a few pics:

Here are my scale tickets since I have started using CAT scales. I tow with a 2019 Chevrolet Silverado LTX 2500HD with 6.6L Duramax and 6 Speed Allison automatic transmission. ARE bed topper with full bed. Both front seats occupied. Full width RockStar Commercial Tow Flap. Full diesel tank 36 gallons. Sticker FRT GAWR 5200 Sticker RR GAWR 6200 Sticker GVWR 10,000 Owners Manual Max trailer 13,000 Owners Manual GCWR 25,300 Just started using a Sherline Tongue Weight Scale Loaded tongue weight at the beginning of the current trip is 580 lbs. Full fresh water tank (30 gallons of water weigh 250 lbs). Empty black and gray tanks. Full 30 lb propane tanks (About 110 lbs). Full refrigerator. No tongue basket. No bumper attachments. Four AGM batteries. No solar. Here’s a spreadsheet that I scratched out this morning “CAT” is a weight off the CAT scale ticket. “CAL’C” is a calculated weight “Sticker” is a weight off of the vehicle placard. “Owners Manual” is a weight out of the owners manual for my truck. I tow without a weight distribution hitch. Trailer brake gain usually set on 4, bump up to 5 or 6 if raining and/or hilly. Front 60, rear 75, trailer 50 cold tire pressures. Tow/haul, exhaust braking, Cruise control on. Original brakes, I’ve installed new Timken or NTN bearings at 6,400 miles and 20,000 miles, and will install new bearings at about 32k. Just over 30,000 miles total on the trailer. Trailer stays in heated and air conditioned shop when at home. I am very pleased with how the truck and trailer operate together at these weights. I’ve posted this information for those who are interested in how other folks tow. Bill

O2R - Thank you so much for giving us the conclusion of your Service story. I am so happy that things worked out for you. I am often perplexed by the stories I hear in which what happens seems to be at the entire opposite end of the scale. I'm simply not sure what's the cause of this seemingly drastic difference between quick through responses that , "Oliver went above and beyond on this one" and the owners that report complete dissatisfaction with virtually anything done by anyone working at Oliver. Perhaps your story and how you handled the situation can serve as a "road map" for others to travel. Bill

UPDATE: As you can see from my first post, we experienced the issue captured in the video late on Saturday the 30th. After reading the information provided above, and doing a little more research, I called and opened a ticket using the forum link to the ticketing system, called Oliver customer support and left a voicemail, and lastly I sent the video in an email to support@olivertraveltrailers.com with a copy to one of the leadership team. Sunday AM: I received an email from Oliver asking for the model and serial number of the Truma, which I promptly sent. Monday AM (8:30ish) : I called customer support at Oliver and I barely got out my name when the tech said, "oh yes, you were the first topic at our team meeting this morning. You should expect a call from someone on the leadership team to help resolve this." An hour or so later, sure enough, I received a call, and the ball was rolling. A full explanation of the plan to get us back up and running with hot water was laid out. (Note: My Aquago was not in the range of serial numbers that were part of the recall, but the plan we were executing assumed that it was. More on that later.) I was in Pennsylvania the day the issue occurred. I was in Buffalo NY headed to Rochester, when I received the first call on Monday. Oliver gave me several options for where I could have the burner swapped out, and we chose an RV facility in Rochester since we planned to be there for 3 days. Oliver next day aired the part, worked with the RV store to schedule the repair, and the work was completed Wednesday, and we were on our way - WITH hot water. 🙂 For the record, my AquaGo is under warranty. Whether or not the issue is the same one addressed with the recall, I don't know. I will let Oliver and Truma work that out, but it appears to be a different issue. Bottom line, Oliver went above and beyond on this one. There was one individual who was in the driver's seat at Oliver, and she will have a thank-you card and a small gift on the way as soon as we get to a stop where we can make that happen. We are grateful for the response and count ourselves lucky to be part of the Oliver family. Bob P.S. It probably helped to provide a video of a fireball on the side of the trailer. 🙂 Nevertheless, good job, Oliver.

I used the stainless steel version of these when I added LED strip lights under my awning a few years ago. Love them.. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9314-curbside-led-strip-lighting/?_rid=6801

Be careful! Pretty soon you two just might run out of things to talk about!😇

The price for your dimmer switches at about $20 is sure a BUNCH cheaper than what I paid for my single dimmer switch some 10 years ago. And, the finished product looks great too. Bill

Steph and Dud, This works great for us. We are coming to the end our initial voyage . We needed to keep reminding each other where/when in the days ahead. We tend to not think about calendars so much when traveling and sometimes we don’t even know where we will stay the next night. I put up a similar white board using command strips on the closet door of our 2026 LE1. Hull #1687. Good use of that space and we quit asking each other what’s next. Lamar😁

@Townesw The hatch looks very nice and you will love the easy access. Thank you for the step by step procedure. It will help someone else in the future! Mossey

Regardless of usage, there is a wattage spec listed on electrical appliances sold in the USA. Pretty sure it's code, so that electricians know how to size wiring and fuses/breakers. Also, part of RV solar planning is to add up the wattage of each appliance and to estimate how many hours per day of usage, and so forth. We use the induction cooktop that @Ollie-Haus made us aware of in an older post. My wife likes it so much that after she was using at home too often, I purchased a 2nd one for the Oliver only (I like our Oliver always ready to go, fully equipped). It's rated at 1800W which is listed on the Amazon title and on the product label underneath. Wattage spec should also be listed in product literature and user manuals. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSNTSVR/?th=1 I do not get this statement either, "the stove itself." How can an appliance possibly know what it's wired to, or know whether you're on inverter or shore power? We run our induction cooktop often at the full #10 setting, for example to boil water for pasta. Everything always on our Victron Multiplus II, no problem. 😎

Interesting. That corresponds pretty well with our WeighSafe hitch, which usually reports a tongue weight around 550# with a full loadout, including full fresh water and empty grey/black tanks. Our closet floor is mostly tools.

My Bosch induction at home doesn’t. The burners have a boost setting but you can’t use them simultaneously. This is normal for induction ranges. It’s normal for most electrical appliances too and houses. Try running all your house lines at absolute full bore and see how fast you start tripping breakers. IIRC the national code specifies 80% continuous and non simultaneous use. Which is why total breaker ratings can add up to more than the panel can technically handle (200A typically). But you guys are still thinking in gas terms, electrical doesn’t work that way. But it doesn’t matter, induction is faster and more efficient than gas so you don’t need full simultaneous use. To answer your question specifically I don’t know as I’d have to have the circuit or block diagram of the cooktop to answer, or maybe they talk about it in the manual. Moot point as it’s pretty obvious. Another take, this is just the same as why I can’t use AC, wave and cooktop simultaneously. Making electrical support full simultaneous use is too expensive and not necessary.

Ha! Ha! You beat me to it again. Well this should be interesting. Mike Sokol is doing his own testing, and doing a number of different tests. He just got 2 old Battleborn's to test them.

Nathan - I will mention this to Matt Duncan and to Jason Walmsley (who handles most if not all things tech related for Oliver and used to work directly for Matt). However, I can tell you that Matt is very well versed in computer tech. He and I did discuss this very possibility when we initially sat down in his old office and were looking for the specific computers and memory stick backups. An additional "problem" at this point will be to identify which computers and which memory sticks might have been involved with these graphics. I'll let you know what Matt and/or Jason have to say on the subject. Bill p.s. Yes, I am a moderator. All of the Moderators of the Forum are NOT employees of Oliver Travel Trailers, and are not compensated in any way by Oliver for the work we do here on the Forum (i.e. we are volunteers). Yes, since most of the moderators have been around Oliver (for more years than we might like to admit), we tend to know a bit of history and the former and current employees that were/are involved with both the travel trailers and other parts of the overall Oliver businesses. Perhaps this is good news and bad news. Good news is that we tend to know "stuff". Bad news is that we also know that Oliver is a family owned business that does not have very much (if any) "fat". That is - they have a very lean staff with most of the staff holding down multiple jobs. Therefore, I'm guessing that it may take a fair amount of time to even get a start on the project you'd like to do.

Thanks that’s clear now. They use a different stove for the 2k LEI. The LEII has a two burner with different capacities. Yours is definitely wired to the inverter and is broken if it won’t turn on. More information on the LEII stove for the interested … I think part of the confusion comes from thinking of this as propane which is just a passive line from the tank. So you get whatever the tank can supply, basically full capacity. The induction, as a 120V electrical appliance has all the same caveats as the rest of the 120V system which is really easy to overload. For example, with my 3k system the stove itself does not allow me to use both burners on full simultaneously. You can set power level (1-10) or temperture, I think in terms of PL. The left bigger one goes to 10, the right to 8. But if I set the 10 to max, then start ramping up the smaller 8 burner, at some point around 4 it’ll start to drop the level of the other burner. You get load balancing between the two. With yours though clearly it’s just a broken unit.

If Geoff ever sells their Oliver, the buyer will have to be another EE! 😎

You have all provided a lot of very interesting information. To be clear, some of it may be a bit beyond me. So a couple of info points. We have a 1 burner induction stove. It does have a separate breaker. When trying to turn the stove on, there is not any response. Possibly not wired through inverter. I have been working with a great OTT customer support person who has engaged the tech dept. Because were are in the middle of travels with the Oliver and are mostly boondocking, the customer support person is working on his end and we will reconnect when we return to home base. Staying in contact when WiFi and cell coverage is very spotty, makes it difficult to work on this issue. I’m also confident OTT will come through based on support so far and all of your responses. I’m not going to touch rewiring anything because 1) I’m limited to basic wiring 2) this unit came off the line in March (3 months ago) and is under warranty. Learning a lot. We really love this camper and what it brings to the table. But, we have to figure this out. For now, generator if we want to cook inside. Set up gas grill for outside (I don’t like to do this while we are in bear country). Eat out (had amazing Mexican meal in Cortez, CO yesterday). Eat out of the fridge (which works amazingly well). Coffee on the little propane burner. All doable. I’ll let you know when we get this resolved. Lamar

Not sure of the exact situation from the information given, but here’s some commentary Using the induction on battery The induction will only pull full 1.8kW when both burners are on full power. The smaller one is limited to 8/10 vs 10/10 of the bigger to meet this spec. With my 3k inverter and the max lithium I can only use both at full power by themselves, no microwave or other high power devices typically at the same time because tripping the 3k is easily possible. But you have a 2k, the reason you can’t get full use out of the 2k is twofold I believe. One is code (for buildings) limits you to I think 80% of full spec for wiring. It depends on various factors like if it’s in conduit or whatnot. But the idea is there’s a difference between continuous high draw and momentary. EV’s for example, if say drawing 32A Level II charging at home overnight, will actually draw close to 32A for hours. Household wiring and sockets aren’t meant for that and will usually overheat, so they have different specifications. But maybe the wiring is rated for full use, as I do get full power on both while on shore. Two, inverters never seem to give the full rated spec, I think they leave margin for spikes. Again 80% is typical from my experience. Seems like if I get close to 3k it’ll freak. Finally there’s the phantom steady state draw from the rest of the camper, so the inverter needs margin for that. All told, an induction cooktop is much like an EV in that when it wants 1.8kW it will draw a full 1.8k until changed. That’s a high load/high stress situation for a camper. So it’s not surprising that a 2k inverter may not support both burners on full. I rarely to never use both mine on full with my 3k, it’s too easy to trip! I use the main burner on full, and if I need to simultaneously use the second one for say boiling some water, I just do it at a lower setting and it takes a little longer. But who cares? Induction is way faster than gas any day of the week so it takes about as long as gas. Breaker The LEII has a 15A dedicated breaker for the stove as you’d expect Stove top not doing anything If there’s zero response from the stovetop - pressing on (which uses no power) doesn’t turn it on than this is a problem. Most likely issue is a tripped breaker. Induction is definitely 120V not 12V feed. Anyhow the induction is a game changer IMO. No toxic gas danger, no condensation from the propane burning, no fire risk, faster, cleaner and better. But you have to know how to work with it as it’s a very high power device. I don’t think it’s a deficiency that the 2k won’t support full power on both burners, that’s ‘by design’. it’s the same reason you can’t run AC, wave and stove at the same time. You pay for the inverter size you wanted. So I wouldn’t worry about that, even at a reduced setting it’s still going to boil water faster than propane.

Keep working with the folks at Oliver. It sounds like they understand where you are coming from and, in my experience, they will do everything that they can to get you to where you want to be. If for any reason this situation doesn't seem to be progressing towards your desired end, I would not hesitate to get Jason Essary involved. And, if that doesn't work then I'd write a note to Scott Oliver telling him (respectfully) the situation and request his help in getting your Ollie the way you want it. Be sure to let us know how this situation is resolved for you. Bill

Not powering up is NOT the same thing as it taking too many watts overloading an inverter! Given it "does not come on" (at all), it's simply not wired to a circuit supplied by the inverter. If an appliance wired to the inverter pulls too much amperage, your inverter will start making noise and will shut down when overloaded, but it certainly will "come on." What were they thinking at OTT! And BTW, a 2000W inverter by definition will run an 1800W appliance! Given the True Induction cooktop is rated at 1800W, and it's a 2-burner cooktop, then each burner is rated at 900W. If OTT had wired the cooktop properly, you could certainly heat up water for coffee on one (1) burner and run the fridge at the same time! You will be well under 2000W! 🤣 Get OTT to wire this properly! I would just DIY, as I suggested in an earlier post, but you have to be concerned of warranty issues. We have the LP cooktop of course, but like Bill mentioned also have an induction cooktop that we plug in indoors or out. We also do not use our LP stove stove to heat coffee water (unless battery SOC is LOW). We love these products! 😎 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSNTSVR/?th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Aigostar-Eve-Electric-Cordless-Boiling/dp/B07D3R7RZT/ https://www.amazon.com/Melitta-Pour-Over-Coffee-Stainless-Filters/dp/B0CSQLHFW9/

I'm sure Oliver will resolve this cook-top issue, under warranty. We're like Mike & Carol, our propane cook-top has been very reliable. We use a portable 120V induction cook-top, too.

Thanks for all the replies. Sorry I haven’t updated sooner. We have been boondocking for several days. I have been in communication with support at Oliver. At first they didn’t understand why it wasn’t working. As they investigated they reported that it appears that the stovetop does pull 1800 w and overloads the 2000 w inverter. The only other major draw is the refrigerator. Even when I turn that off, the stovetop does not come on. I stopped at a Bass Pro the first day to pick up a small 2 burner propane stove so we could at least have coffee in the morning. Not what I was planning when camping. If I had known I would have asked for the propane stove instead of the induction stove. We have the Platinum pkg and I did ask sales at the dealer if people liked the induction stove and if I could use it boondocking. Answer was that it works. I noticed that the induction cooktop comes standard on the Legacy 2026. This isn’t working for us as designed. I have asked for this to be resolved…proper inverter set up or a propane stove retro fit. If you do much camping at Harvest Hosts, BLM, National Forrest, National Parks, etc. w/o hookups, it is a problem unless you run a generator. When we return from our travels we will see where Oliver lands on this. They are considering possible “upgrades” to our camper. I wouldn't see a resolution as upgrades, but will find out. When hooked up to shore power, the cooktop works great. But so far for us, most of our trip, was making coffee or cooking outside on a portable propane stove.

Scott called me the other day about an unrelated matter but while we were on the phone I asked him about the vinyl decals. He stated that he was not exactly sure about the cost to the customer for the front Big “O” and the two rear sides. There was a time that they cut all their own vinyl lettering. Because of this we could usually get whatever we wanted as far as colors etc. As most of you probably already know, the person that did all the computer work for the graphics and ran the vinyl cutting machine has left and there is nobody there now that knows how to operate any of that system. For that reason, they are farming out all their graphic work. That is probably why the price is so high. It’s been several months since I was at the factory, but at that time back in the service department there was a huge pigeon hole type cabinet with the “O” graphics stacked inside in all different combinations of colors. There were the big ones and a smaller version that was only six inches across. I don’t know if that was new old stock. I would doubt Scott knew they were even back there. In additional news, for those of you that had met Jason Ballentine the service manager know now that he has left Oliver and they have a new service manager. His name is Randall Mayberry. They have a new lady (I don't recall her name) that is working behind the desk as you enter the showroom outer office. One of the former salesmen, Jason/Justin Lindsey/Lindley (you will note that I’m terrible with names) has returned and they now have a staff of three full time sales personnel.