Leaderboard

Update: Water pump switch has been fixed. I was in Hohenwald for a furnace and water heater issue so I had them troubleshoot and fix as we are still under warranty. The issue ended up being a loose connector on the Seelevel switch. Mike and the Oliver service department were great in addressing all of our issues.

A former Moderator and Oliver owner is/was renowned for relatively extreme mods to his Ollie. One of these mods occurred during construction where he had requested Oliver raise his Oliver to get more ground clearance - primarily for off-roading purposes. Someone here on the Forum might still have more pictures of this Oliver. Once the Oliver was "lifted" it was decided (by all concerned) that this would cause the trailer to be too top heavy and/or would impact the road handling of the trailer adversely. Therefore, it was returned to the original design. The trailer's name was Snowball and the Forum name of the owner was Overland. Bill p.s. Here's Overland's discussion of his "attempted" lift.

I have seen videos where skid rollers are mounted at the rear of a travel trailer to keep the bumper/under carriage from scraping on steep driveways or road grades; check out etrailer.com for such products. I welded some on a skid plate that’s mounted on the front of my TV to protect the expensive ebike rack, works great!

Following JD's lead on this: Some thoughts about the 3 way it appears you have done all the common items: Turn the control panel up to setting 5. Park with the curbside door on the north side as much as possible to keep the solar gain off the unit. If not possible, lowering your awning a bit to put the unit into shade. Open the frig door and look in the upper back wall where the aluminum cooling fans are. On the right side of them is a white plastic "clamp" that holds the thermistor for the unit. It will slide up and down on the right most fin. This thermistor controls the cooling system. Moving it up or down will increase/decrease the temp in the box for each of the five settings on the control panel. I don't recall which way you move it go get cooler, but there there is a post on the forum. I'm sure one of the members will remind us on this detail. The Beach Lane Fans seem to be the best fan solution for a warm frig in hot conditions. So regardles of any of the suggestions, if you use a 3 way where it is hot you need the extra cooling needed by the frig. Do plan on doing this if you get yours running. Good posts on the forum on how. So now to get to the gas burner orifice. It is easy to get to and remove. Follow the gas supply valve into the curbside front of the lower access panel. It goes horizontal into a gas control valve. Beyond that valve is an air shield. The outside cover can be bent out to reveal the gas orifice. A small combination wrench is needed to remove it. Done. Hope this helps. GJ

I'd bet that you are no longer in the Leadville area - but - there is a coffee shop directly across the street from City Hall that has very good pastries and coffee. Plus, they have free WiFi. Bill

Likewise, good to hear from you again Claudia. We've conversed here before and I remember you being quite DIY capable! 😎 Re your statement above, it means two things to me. First, I've always noticed that ours works a little better on LP which is the opposite condition. And that has me thinking about what you wrote, when temps are over 80F. Have you installed a better fan in the exterior vent area? You might think, why would that matter when it cools properly on AC/DC? I'm not certain, but a viable hypothesis may be the fridge on LP creates more heat than when powered by electric. Our fridge used to perform on-and-off and ever since adding the Beech Lane large dual fan it performs excellently under any power source. When we set it on #4 the freezer will approach 0F and the fridge will get down to 32F (Ruuvi temp sensors) and when it does so we switch the cooling level to #3. Chris was a restaurant chef for a few years and she keeps me well nourished! 🤣 That means she keeps a very FULL fridge! We now have an extra fridge in the truck, always with space for grocery shopping. If you reply that you already have a similar fan (not the little OEM fan), then I'm at a loss in what to advise. But if not, do this before you do anything else. My installation is presented at the bottom of page 1 on this post:

I believe going from from an Under- to Over-slung suspension adds quite a bit more than 2" but you've done this on another trailer and I have not. You may be right. I don't have my notes with me. It was 27 years ago and I was shooting from the hip there. It did solve our problem and didn't affect handling much, BUT, that trailer sat much lower than a stock Oliver does. Another thing that we learned that may be helpful to the OP is that angle of attack to the grade makes a big difference. Worst case is driving straight into the grade change. Crossing the grade change at an angle helps reduce tail dragging. We found that our best option to clear our grade is a right turn leaving and a left turn returning.

Sorry to hear this and more so because I really like the design of your rear toolbox! I like how it has cabinet doors, opening to the rear, allowing the surface to be a tie-down area or spare work table. The boxes with hinged tops do not allow for such. I think about this every time I read a related post. I don't need one with an 8 ft open truck bed, but if I did... I would first remove the fiberglass cover and spare tire. Then mount the spare in the back left corner of the TV bed using a simple spare tire mount available on eTrailer and elsewhere. The cover would become a new garage ornament, a conversation piece! 🤣 This would delete a lot of rear weight which is the most important issue with adding weight to the rear. Ever LB in back lightens the trailer tongue weight and the Oliver with 8-9% tongue weight is already a towing safety issue. Very few Oliver owners seem to be concerned re this matter. With the spare gone, a custom cargo box could be +/- 10" close to the hull. This also helps the weight issue (shorter lever arm). Maybe you can move the spare and still use your awesome toolbox. Later mount the box pulled up closer to center. If there's no room in the truck bed, the spare tire could be frame-mounted on the streetside of the doghouse using the same standard bracket. 😎

If you can't read the print on the unit label and you are interested, dm to me and I can provide details. The unit currently runs on 240V but I am currently converting my place to 3-phase and then it will run on 208v single phase. It's currently on a 30 amp circuit because of what was on the circuit before but I seem to recall it will run on a 20 amp circuit.

John, I did not install it myself so I will be of limited help. I went with a minisplit for my shop and use a wood stove when temps here drop below what is optimal for the minisplit. But I love the unit. Super quiet inside and out. A very convenient option for heating in transitional season temperatures when it's just not worth firing up the wood stove. Of course the cooling function works well too. I have a larger heat pump on my house again for ac and transitional weather heating. But like in the shop, I have a gas boiler for when it really gets cold. Its not that the heat pump and minisplit won't heat in cold weather but rather they are not my most efficient option in cold weather. Of course your climate is a different situation.

Good morning to all. This is Martin and Linda from S Oregon. We live near Jacksonville and the Applegate valley. Wonderful wineries and cider makers in the valley. We just picked up our 2019 E2 and are searching for places to go as we head to Tennessee next summer. New to this site also so hopefully this post works. Enjoy

In approx 2018-2019 BE (before oliver) we lived in the Coachella Valley in S. California. Summers were routinely 110-120 for months at a time. I was down there trying to get the house ready for our move and spent a lot of time making a bunch of tables for the new home. At night because it was by 10pm ONLY 100. We installed a minisplit in the uninsulated garage and the mini-split would easily knock down the air temp form 100 to 80 withot breathing hard. That said, I can't recall the brand however we did pay approx $3800 for the system installed. After procurring a permit, the installation took one day.

We stayed at Brookings and Tillamook. Loved it. Welcome to the family. Arkansas state parks are great if they fit your TN travel plans.

The problem with this is that it puts a reverse stressor on the trailer frame. Instead of bearing a load (trailer body) pressing down from above, when the rollers are dragged on the pavement they push up on the rear frame of the trailer and carry part of the load usually carried by the axles. This can bend a trailer frame and cause damage to the body (although I would think a molded fiberglass body is stronger then other RVs).

I bought a LE2 Platinum Twin a couple months ago. 🙂 I would highly recommend the Yellow Jacket eccentric tool. I wouldn't take a chance with such a critical component. Wall mount. I'm amazed at how quiet both the indoor and outdoor units are. No vibration transmitted to the building either. The wall mount bracket came with rubber vibration pads, but there's very little vibration to begin with. Here's the exterior part of the installation at my house:

Haven't done it to our Oliver but we "flipped" the axles on a previous trailer to gain approximately 2" for the same reason. If your Oliver axles sit on top of the springs you can have a spring/suspension shop "flip" them to put the axle tubes underneath the springs. You basically gain the diameter of the axle tubes. (Note that this could slightly affect handling since it raises the trailer's center of gravity, but we didn't notice it on our other trailer.)

Appreciate that tip on the coffee shop ! we are no longer in Leadville, but we did have a great Pizza at “High Mountain Pies” Would recommend that spot for Pizza

I have not read here that anybody has done so to date, but John E Davies who was active years ago wrote some about modifying the Oliver suspension from an Under- to Over-slung suspension. I tow in the NF and BLM of Arizona often, descending steep and deep washes and have so far never scraped the rear. This suspension change would give you a 5+" lift (diameter of axle plus height of leaf springs), and this comes with negatives. Mainly just climbing into the cabin would be a pain, reason why I tow with a 2WD truck, vs. a 4WD truck with a lift! No, I'm done with trucks or trailers where I'd need to climb up like that! 🤣 I'm not seeing a 2" lift option and only 2" may not answer your needs. I've got neighbors with driveways like yours, wow! I'd suggest leave the Oliver alone and fix your driveway. You'd appreciate it when driving your grocery-getter too. Talk to a concrete contractor or build a proper set of ramps specifically for this purpose. Please let us know and post here with pics and comments if you do convert your Oliver to an Over-slung suspension! 😎

Update: W255H Issue Hull#1703 2026 LEII The furnace and water heater issues have been fixed! Mike at Oliver service was very accommodating and got us back on the road. Turns out the data cable was the issue. While trying to pull a new cable thru, the old cable broke, so I suspect, it got crimped somewhere and worked initially but as we traveled down the road it was compromised. Thanks to everyone here who tried to help me fix it without traveling back to Hohenwald and to Mike and Oliver service department!

Cottonwood Lake USFS campground on Cottonwood Pass, near Buena Vista, Co 3.5 miles of miserable washboard dirt road , nice campground, no water available as the well has been broken over 5 years with no plan to repair 🤔 campground is all FCFS and fills up Friday mornings too much dust with folks driving 25 mph in a 5 mph campground One pic in Leadville, Co

Claudia - Good to see you back - but - I wish it was under better circumstances. Hopefully someone here has taken this thing apart and can convey wisdom your way - good luck. Bill

We ordered our Oliver #70 back kn 2014 without the MW. It came with a built in cavity of sorts which I guess one could call it a cabinet. The cavity was wood line probably 1/4 inch Luan plywood. Oliver installed a rather unappealing door during the build but did use the standard SS latches seen on the rest of the overhead doors. Once home I built a new door to replace the original one that appealed to us.

A lesson learned. As much as I like the storage box on our Ollie, it will never go back on the trailer. We are planning on venturing into some rougher country later this year, so I thought I’d check the spare. Long story, short… it took over two hours to get the box disconnected. I had to remove the box from the aluminum frame, then take many many strokes with a dead blow hammer to get the frame out. I can’t imagine doing that on the road. The good news is the tire still had over 60 PSI. The bad news is my back is sore.

@Tideline77Understand about needing a suit, completely. My Sister in Law was extremely sick a week ago until she was diagnosed & treated for Lyme disease from a tick bite, now she is finally returning home from the hospital. She is a bee keeper. Edit: We were camping when I got Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever from a tick bite, we saw the symptoms and I received early treatment! 🙂