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The goal was to add a simple toggle switch to the fan motor so that when the fan is ON, the fan motor can be turned OFF while leaving the vent door OPEN! I contacted MaxxAir CS to see if there is a better way to do this, but they really had difficulty understanding my use case and after asking 3 times in 3 emails, as they cc:d 3 more staff persons, I gave up to "Do It My Way!" (as usual) 🤣 Often during evenings, we have the fan on low to exhaust heat from the Oliver ceiling. Later when going to bed, I want to turn OFF the fan but leave the fan door open as a vent. The fan open/close mechanism is very NOISY! Often Chris had drifted off to sleep, and I hardly wanted to CLOSE/OPEN the vent door twice to double this annoying sound! I used to place a pillow over the opening to cut down on the noise. First thing I noticed was how dirty the fan parts were which was not as noticeable when camping day-to-day. Certainly, much more worked was involved in a detailed cleaning than the 20 minutes it would take to split a wire and crimp in a toggle switch. We mainly cook breakfast indoors, always with the fan exhausting. The screen and other parts had a layer of bacon grease and whatever else. I had to scrub the screen with Dawn for quite a while to get it completely clean. In fact, so much scrubbing removed the shine (coating) on the screen. (I found an open box replacement on eBay for $20). Please keep in mind this fan is 10 years old! The fan blades too! They were so dirty after sponging with Dawn, I had to wipe each blade several times with rubbing alcohol on paper towels to finally achieve clean/clear plastic! At this point, I figured I would disassemble and clean it completely. Adam is my "Second Story Man" so he grabbed the ladder and I handed him the Phillips. The complete exterior unit is held on with only 4 screws. With everything removeable out, I stood on a milk crate under the opening and cleaned it inside and out. To start there are 4 swivel clips to hold the screen (I'm going to start cleaning the screen every 1-2 weeks). Under the edge of the screen are 4 screws holding the lower plastic assembly in place which contains the electronics and wiring. Every screw on the MaxxFan is a Phillips so all you need is one screwdriver and wire tools if you're wanting the toggle switch. MaxxFan uses terminals to connect power to the fan motor and opening mechanism, but OTT did not add a terminal for power to the unit, so I cut the black and white wires and used butt connectors upon reassembly (adding a terminal disconnect would be nice). I'll show a picture of the internal wiring later, as I forgot to take one, but I have to open it again next week when I get a new swivel pin for the screen. One of 4 had a broken tab which would occur as somebody tried to pry off the pin vs. turning it. The outdoor assembly comes apart into pieces by removing 5 + 3 + 6 more screws (see pics). When I reassembled this section, after cleaning all, I put a matchhead sized dab of clear silicone grease on the white wheel-shaped bushings on the ends of the lift levers. What is really amazing is it's now so CLEAN that it allows twice as much light to enter the cabin. We might now need a cover for sleeping, LOL! It's hard to photograph it all clean and installed due to lighting contrast (last picture). Love the simple switch! The video should get the point across. We can now turn off the fan at night without making more than the click sound on the toggle! 😎 Fan Power Off Button.MOV

I simply crank the black knob to open when fan is off. I ventilate the trailer in storage doing this.

When parked at camp, I use a Proven Industries coupler lock with the optional S/S puck and Medco lock which is extremely robust. It’s just about bomb proof. **** A note to any owners upgrading to the 2 5/16 BD coupler and IF you presently use a Proven coupler lock for with a 2” ball, no need to purchase a new Proven Industries lock. Your current 2” coupler lock will work. I mocked mine up this morning on the new BD 2/16 coupler and its fits perfectly. Do not loose the keys, as I cannot imagine trying to remove either of these this locks.

That roof vent vents the black tank all the time and the gray tank only when the shower valve is open. There is an AAV - air admittance valve - under the kitchen counter in the back right corner of the kitchen drawers that should allow air into the gray tank when draining even if the shower valve is closed once the water level drops below the place where the kitchen sink drain enters the gray tank. The bath sink drain and shower drain flow through the open shower valve to the gray tank. Bill

We have used this coupler security and ABUS lock combo since we took delivery in June of 2020. Since it only takes less than 5 minutes to remove the BD coupler via the two bolts off the trailer tongue it’s a good deterent and better than nothing. Also when on the road it makes for an easy eye safety check during a walk around of our rig. This combo continue to serve us well 6 years in. Both have strong reviews. I will use this collar and lock on the new 2 5/16 coupler. Another plus with the S/S collar, you cannot secure the collar on the coupler locking mechanism if the coupler is not properly locked down so the clam shell cannot be moved back on the hitch ball. A nice little extra built in secondary safety feature. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HL2NM0K?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title ABUS Stainless lock made in Germany- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009S5Y6ZS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

@Patriot Thanks! Tony

Wow. I am truly impressed. We just bought our 2019 Oliver E2. I am thinking I will have it cleaned and new coating next year. Had to replace the water backflow valve and my heater won’t ignite. Thinking it may need new sail switch. We love it. Thanks. Martin & Linda

New Bulldog 4B4 coupler drilled, de-burred, cleaned, primed and painted, installed and torqued down. Another project completed despite the smokin heat and humidity of the day. I could not be happier with the final product fit and finish of this mini mod. A big thanks to a close friend who owns a machine shop that does precision work. He measured twice and drilled once. For those running the S/S coupler, I applied double sided tape a few years ago on inside of the coupler to keep it from the metal to metal wearing the paint thin on the coupler. It worked great, so I reapplied it again with new tape. I opted for silver metallic to match the swooshes on XPLOR. A few mod/upgrade photos.😎 Safe Travels! My buddy Brian gotter done! Thanks Brother!!

Of course, but the goal is to turn the fan OFF leaving the vent door OPEN. This doesn't work well. The noise starts with the first action and often ours doesn't respond quickly enough to start re-opening. Rubbing alcohol is one of the lightest solvents. I rub it on the gelcoat or ANY other surface to prep for 3M VHB tape. The fan is crystal clear after several applications. Yeah, basically to clean it thoroughly you must remove disassemble all parts. Yes, very strange and reason I contacted the manufacturer first. On our unit, the FAN OFF control closes the vent door too.

Yes @Boudicca908, we enjoyed the mosquitoes in the Everglades when we camped there a couple of years ago. They had a cute little sign with a movable arrow like you see telling what the fire danger is. Except this one was about mosquitoes. It was about mid-scale “moderate”. We had to RUN from the truck to the trailer to keep bites to less than about ten - and all intentions of a campfire or sitting outside were immediately scrapped. We did the “mountains” thing on the trip we’re wrapping up. Camped up to about 8,000 feet. There, it was wondering why you get out of breath on easy hikes. If memory of aviation planning holds, you get about 3 degrees Fahrenheit for each 1,000 of elevation. Too bad we’re not there now, as it was, in April and May we were getting into the 20’s and high teens at night. Heater hose is on my wish list for 2027!

@Patriot, thanks for bringing this up. Prompted me to get a repair kit as well.

It's kind of strange they didn't design it to have that option to begin with... Not sure what make/model I have but it has separate controls so I can turn the fan off while the vent door is open.

That's Awesome

I highly recommend this campground (unless there's thunderstorms). Quiet and beautiful in the Sheyenne National Grassland, just one hour S-SW of Fargo. It's also very inexpensive accepting the National Senior Pass too! We spent a night there last summer. Wanted to stay longer but we got a little muddy on the way in and feared storms coming in the next afternoon. But it's dry most of the time with nicely graded dirt roads the last few miles. We met some girls who brought their horses out for the weekend! Just gorgeous! Dakota Prairie Grasslands | Hankinson Hills Campground | Forest Service

It helps to open the shower drain valve (either manual or automatic) to allow some air into the (forward/high/uphill) end of the gray tank... making it somewhat easier for the liquid to pour out of the rear/low/downhill end of the tank. Don't forget to close this valve when moving the camper or parking extremely nose-down or the gray tank fluid may burble up into the shower floor pan from the long & shallow gray tank, which may not be pleasant. This valve must be open when using either the shower or the bathroom vanity sink.. otherwise these will not drain into the gray tank as expected and the fluid will either stay in or flow into the shower floor plan.

Hopefully they will restructure like many companies do. Only time will tell.

Look under street side bunk. Make sure valve is open all of the way when handle is pulled. Also if you’re going to fill it lay a water hose in the shower pan (but watch it REAL close) and really raise the nose so you are washing the bottom of the tank. Fill tank until water stops draining in shower pan. Be sure to quickly turn water off. Open the valve and let it rush out. Do it a few times. Watch what comes out if you can. You know that white snot that grows in HVAC condensate pans and lines? I think similar stuff grows in gray tanks. I think #1455 has sat unused and you have a build up in your tank. I think people set these trailers up level, hook up to the sewer and open the drain and let the water out as it is filled. This lets solids settle on the tank floors. We were told to keep the drains closed and only dump when the tanks were filled so that solids could be flushed out. We always dump black first. Then we use the flush inlet and fill and drain the black tank 3,4,5 times until I don’t see anymore floaters (we don’t put paper in our black tank) in the clear elbow at the sewer connection. Then I open the gray tank and let it drain while I do something else. After a few minutes the gray tank level is 0. Since I got that gunk out of my gray tank I haven’t had any problems. It will still drain slow but I eventually get to 0%.

Good idea. We did ours May 2025 when they were readily available. This upgrade sure provides a reassuring feeling when towing! 😎

Not that we need one more special fluid to tote around in our trailers or TVs - but how about glycerin or KY jelly instead of a petroleum or even vegetable oil based product? I’ve found that the fiberglass collects stains so efficiently that I’d be leery of using anything that might add to my workload. My assortment of cleaning/polishing/waxing products requires its own tote!

Based on my experience with the Furrion Stereo - I had to stop and take a breath before I started considering a much more expensive item from Furrion. Hopefully, they make A/Cs better than they make stereos…. As for Dometic - obviously the Penguin 2 A/C does not win them any customers. IMHO - the toilet is crap as well. The hob is fine - though the “bumpers” that cushion the glass cover only lasted two uses. Norcold? Great fridge - if the freezer hinges were tough enough to withstand normal use. Then again - Truma hasn’t impressed me much either. Im usually pretty easy to please. Maybe that old “they don’t make things like they used to” is the reason - or - I’ve just become more crotchety in my old age.

Boondocking Off the Grid require good maps, physical activity and curiosity, Utah and Wyoming.

For $1600, Craigs tape job looks really good to me! Thought when I looked a year ago these doors were under $900. Like Mike, our few lights cracks will stay as is no tape required, but I would do the same it the laminate was coming out of the frame as pictured. To remove and replace the surface will not be easy, given you want it installed within the frame like the original. The only removeable section is the bottom cross-member (see door bottom pictured) and the window surround and door handle. You can buy 4x8' sheets of similar material at Depot and other stores. Cutting smoothly to size with top radius corners is not easy but doable. The trick would be after getting all the old material out would be slipping the new surface into place. You would likely have to chisel and file the core of the door to make extra room for material that would be a few mils thicker. Or you could just glue it over the frame. 🤣 I'll replace our door ONLY after we have trouble opening and closing it!!!

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