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After reading through this thread, it seems that either the shore power GFCI breaker or the inverter GFCI breaker trips after running the microwave in the convection mode for a few minutes. That sure sounds like the convection oven is failing! A crack in the heating element could cause a low current leakage path to ground when it gets hot enough. It only takes several milliamps to trip the GFCI and it will reset after the oven cools down and the leakage path goes away. A standard thermo/magnetic breaker may not detect this condition and the element would probably just burn out after a while. A winding in the oven fan has the same possible failure mode, but it could take longer to completely fail. I'd try plugging the microwave directly into an extension cord that is plugged into a GFCI. This will confirm if the oven works, or needs to be replaced. Good luck and let us know what you find. Geoff

I have to admit. I swallowed pretty hard when I wrote the check for my new Oliver back in 2018. However, it's been relatively trouble free in the eight years I've owned it. Can't say that for most brands. I think the low production run also adds to the desirability. If Hohenwald was stamping trailers out as fast as Casita, it would lower the exclusivity of owning an Oliver. I was happy when Oliver went back to factory only sales.

@johnwen I’m wondering if there are some misunderstandings of your original question. I understand your issue is the connectors are shaking loose. Yes, that’s happened to me on my 2021 model as well. My pipes are white, Sharkbite brand PEX-b, with the same plastic connectors. I assume yours are too. The problem isn’t the pipe type, it’s the connectors. I have replaced many of my plastic connectors and used PEX copper crimp rings, because I already had the tool to do home repairs. This solves the loose connection problem, but sometimes the plastic elbows break. I’ve only had one break while camping, and fortunately a Home Depot was within an hours drive. .There are also other types of clamps such as stainless PEX clamps, which require a different tool. Since my crimp ring tool is really big and heavy, and I cannot get it into some small spaces, I leave it at home and carry a half dozen various Sharkbite push-in quick connects and a few spare pieces of PEX-b pipe for campsite repairs. There are threads in this forum where some owners have replaced elbows with brass, some have replaced all with Sharkbite quick connects, available in plastic or brass. There are several ways to fix your loose connection problem, just depends on your preference, but you should not need to replace your pipes.. All of these fittings and pipes are readily available at stores like Ace, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Sometimes we are camping too far from such conveniences, which is why I carry the spares. I haven’t had any clamps pull loose yet, but that shouldn’t be difficult to repair on the road. It’s got me thinking about better ways to do it though.

Sheesh. Lol. I won't touch this one.

No.

Don't know of anything to do this job. This said, very few trucks can handle 500lbs of trailer tongue weight + 500lbs motorcycle over the tongue. You might consider a front receiver if you are driving a 3/4 ton or bigger truck and have enough payload after all gear is on board. The EcoHitch Hidden Front Mount Trailer Hitch Receiver - sold at ETrailer has a 1000lbs vertical load on Ford super duty trucks. I drive an F250 and carry a lot of gear on the truck plus the 500lbs of tongue weight, this maxes out my payload. I would need to Jettison 500lbs from the truck's bed to carry 500lbs on a front receiver. If I wanted to carry our normal load on the truck with a trailer in tow and 500lbs on the front receiver, I would need a 1 ton to have enough payload.

Depending on your perspective, you will not escape the heat in the driftless area right now. This past week i went into the Superior National Forest in northern MN to " escape the heat" in southern Wisconsin. I only escaped the heat there for 48 hours and then the heat moved in and it was almost as hot there as in southern wisconsin. I own property in the driftless area and have only seen a couple of days in july where i would oliver camp there. If you want to give it a shot i would recommend an electric site at Wyalusing or Perrot or Interstate State Park. All are gorgeous and most have showers/flush bathrooms. But this time of year you are going to want the option to run your ac and generator use is not allowed in the state parks. Good luck!

Did this get resolved? On my last trip my ac disappeared from the cp plus panel for a couple of days and then eventually reappeared with no apparent action on my part. I am suspecting I have a flaky RJ45 coupler somewhere? Inverter was on both times and i was in some desparate heat and humidity where i had to run off battery power for an hour or so. Fortunately the remote controlled the aventa just fine. Running the aventa off battery power at the beginning of the trip is not a real winner. @jd1923 has me thinking about the Furrion Chill.

So I went to a deep dark place with my Truma in the past because I always had condensate dripping down the curbside of my trailer and none down the street side, or from either condensate lines under the trailer. The condensate lines cross so that meant I was not getting any drainage from the curb side condensate tray. There is a second outlet on each side of the condensate tray that is supposed to allow water to drain down the side of the trailer if the condensate line is occluded. To make a long story short, the condensate line that drains to the street side was occluded somewhere in between the inner and outer hull, and I could not access this area. I remedied the problem by getting a y fitting and splicing the tubing coming from the street side into the tubing coming from the curbside. I never had any drainage inside the trailer. I should also mention that when my trailer is absolutely level, the ac lists to the curbside. Giving my experience, I would first remove the inner shroud and see if you can identify where the leak is originating. If you confirm it is condensate, I would then get one of these, https://a.co/d/0hkNDgD0, and pass the brush from the condensate drain tube as far as possible and see if it is visible from inside the trailer, since the inside shroud is removed. I would then do the same on the other side. If you determine one side is occluded, I used this fitting to splice the occluded side to the non occluded side, https://a.co/d/0d6K2v06. Maybe you will find a kink or other occlusion that can be fixed with out splicing. I had the outer cover off several times during this process, but found that the access and visibility is poor and I would not start there. I hope this helps, please feel free to reach out if I can help further.

Gotta love it

I have had some success with threaded insert nuts in the OTT installed PVC Foam Board. They are very effective on the horizontally mounted foam board, such as the water pump location. Mossey

Look at using King StarBoard for a better waterproof mounting board. It can be cut and shaped using regular woodworking tools. I get mine from McMaster Carr but there are less expensive places to get it. A shipment from McMaster Carr usually arrives the next day depending on where you are. I think I have ordered some from TAP Plastics https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/king_starboard/526?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21137328659&gbraid=0AAAAAD_hg_I8XrL-S3Ima0ZSWbIsffsZk&gclid=CjwKCAjwmdLSBhANEiwAkREMN3hswfK8uVUE38-cgCmjAoCwEzeXRTPZLhht1xFJJ1A8-NIIMHzIkhoC2_gQAvD_BwE I don’t know why that link has to have so much gibberish in it. Bill

We live in North Idaho, where we experience snow and ice. We use a Clamark cover for our Oliver, and it has been excellent. Our Oliver is parked on the side of the house next to the garage and fence, so it doesn't get much direct wind. To protect against any potential damage, we place padding on the sharp corners, such as the bumper and solar panels, ensuring that nothing gets scuffed. I haven't noticed any signs of the fiberglass being scratched since we have a ceramic coating. If it were exposed to more wind, however, that could be a concern. Putting the cover on can be a challenge, but we've developed a great system that makes it relatively easy. When we take the cover off, we roll it up so that it fits in a plastic tote. We roll it in a way that allows us to simply lift it out at the end of the season and place it on top of the Oliver. Then we roll it forward and let it drop off the sides. This method is much easier than the first time we rolled it on on the ground and tried to lift it up and over.

First year recommendation, stay south until May! Enjoy camping on the Gulf Shore or in the Smokies or somewhere else nice and get past this first winter! 😂 I’ve not had good experiences with covers and prefer going without. Put a cover on our tow vehicle, a couple summers ago, to get rub marks from the wind and the Pack Rats were thankful for the dark space. Never again! Our Ceramic Coating professional said the same without me asking. Our Oliver, now freshly polished and coated will live outdoors in the Arizona sun and elements. An indoor space would be nice, but not happenin’ for us either. I sold the Calmark cover that came with our hull used to @grweber1 in Minnesota where I guess a cover is needed for lots of ice and snow! Maybe Gary can chime in. I imagine his covered Oliver is deep in snow by now! I like the idea of shrink wrap. It will not blow in the wind and scratch the gelcoat. You’d winterize first, have your LiFePO4 batteries at 60% SOC and disconnected. If you’re getting your 28’ boat done, ask for a package deal to include your new 19’ rolling hull! 😎

On your way, stop by a Maverick or other service station! We fill the FWT and another 35 gal in the TV! BTW, in northern MN and Wisconsin, they need to bury these 5 ft underground to keep from freezing! Can’t blame them for not having one at each campsite!

Generally, no. There may be an exception or two but i dont remember for the three parks i mentioned. There are usually several spigots spread thru the camp ground. But they typically dont have a hose fitting so parking in the camp road to refill is probably difficult if not outright discouraged. You would have to take a 5 gallon bucket and refill doing the boondocking valve juggle to refill at most of these parks. This would be very possible with strategic selection of campsite. Now you know why i carry an extra 35 gallons of water in the back of my truck. The driftless area will be gorgeous going into the fall. All three parks i mentioned offer spectacular views if you are able to do some light hiking.