ScubaRx

My Windows 10 works just as Bill stated except my cursor in step 3 us just a plus mark.

Greetings from Hull #050.

As we don’t consume alcohol, HH has never been a draw for us. Yes, I know they’re not all alcohol related, but with having to pay to be a member, being expected to buy something before you leave seems to be awfully expensive for what you get in return.

There is no dampening built into the trailer. The hull sits directly on the frame separated only by quarter inch strips of rubber between them. The attachment bolts go through the hull, rubber, and frame from the inside.

I doubt it.

Nice work.

I should have clarified my statement to say “pull off the road and activate emergency flashers” I didn’t mean to indicate you should remain in motion.

I think leaving the emergency flashers on is the best idea.

If there is an advantage, it would be the greater volume of water to assist with the first dumping. As far as what CAN happen, I won’t allow someone to interfere with that process again. Once was plenty for me. I’ve always read that setting up or breaking down camp should not be interrupted. I’ve added dumping to that list.

Thanks Bill for the pictures. You perfectly illustrated what I was trying to put into words.

Have you thought about just mounting a front hitch on your truck?

The fuse to the detector is located under the aft dinette seat along a single wire with an inline fuse holder. My guess from afar is that it is a bad CO/LP Alarm. As I'm sure you know, they do have a shelf life and most likely the expiration date is printed on the unit somewhere (hopefully easily visible.)

@Townesw This was the statement from which I drew my conclusion..."While watching the frame area and the right rear jack atop the modified jack stand we noted how much the fiberglass body moved. We asked her to exit and re-enter and to move around inside the cabin and noted that even though the frame was stationary there was considerable movement in the body." After watching your video, I'll admit that was not what I expected to see. I was thinking of side to side movement rather than up and down. As all my physician friends say when they don't have a clue what could be wrong with a patient, "Hmmm, interesting." I think you at 100% correct in saying, "You’re chasing your tail trying to make it “non wobbly”".

I’ve had five different tow vehicles over the past 15 years of Oliver ownership. The second TV I bought was a used 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe LTZ. I bought it to replace a (very bad choice) 2009 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited that I had leased with the intention of towing our new 2008 Hull #026 Oliver Elite. It had 20 inch wheels and worn out passenger car tires when I got it in 2009. I went to purchase new tires at Walmart, and found out that they didn’t handle any tires larger than 18 inch and they directed me to Mac’s Tire, a local tire shop here in town. When I got there, I told them that I wanted a Light Truck tire as I would be using this as a tow vehicle. They informed that there was no Light Truck tire for 20 inch rims. Muttering under my breath, I said what I really would like to have is a set of 18 inch rims. He made a phone call and about 10 minutes later a guy shows up with an essentially brand new 2010 Tahoe LT with 18 inch wheels and brand new tires. I told him I would trade my fancy LTZ wheels and worn out tires for his not quite as fancy LT wheels with the new tires. Even money, he was to pay Mac’s for the swap out. I kept this vehicle until I sold the Elite and bought Hull #050, the first Elite II sold in 2014. The third TV I bought was a new 2014 GMC Sierra SLT 1500 with the 6.2L Gasoline engine and the Max Tow Package. I had found it on the internet at a dealer in Illinois right across the river from St. Louis and bought it over the phone. When we got there to pick it up I told them I wanted to keep my old wheels and tires. They swapped out the 20 inch wheels that had come on the Sierra for my old 18 inch wheels and tires and we were on our way. We kept this vehicle until 2017 slowly realizing that this was not a particularly great vehicle for an Elite II. The fourth TV I bought was a new 2017 Silverado High Country 2500 HD with a 6.6L diesel. It was only available with 20 inch wheels. Ironically, the 3500 HD was only available with 18 inch wheels. By this time our Elite II was needing new tires so it was back to Mac’s. The grandson of the original owner saw me pull up and he came running out to see my new truck. He excitedly pointed across the lot to his new Silverado 3500. We talked trucks for a few minutes and he said the only thing he disliked about his truck was he couldn’t get any wheels bigger than 18 inch and I told him I felt the same way in that I could not get anything but 20 inch wheels. We looked silently at each other for a few seconds and I asked, “Wanna trade?” And we did. We kept that vehicle for a few years until I realized that I was about 700 pounds over my cargo carrying capacity and to be safe and legal, I needed a bigger truck. The fifth TV I bought was a new 2022 Silverado High Country 3500 HD with a 6.6L diesel. I increased my cargo capacity by 1700 pounds and all was good there. But by the time I ordered my 2022 model, the 3500 HD had dropped the 18 inch wheels and only came with 20 inch wheels. So, I swapped them again. The reasons that I did all this was due to what tires were available with the properties I wanted at the times I was buying. In 2007, 20 inch tires were rare and expensive. I wanted a size that I could buy at any tire store anywhere in the country. Seventeen inch wheels were the most popular size for trucks and SUV’s at that time and could be had at a reasonable price. Between 2014 and 2017, 20 inch wheels became very common place but there was still not a great selection of heavy duty tires in that size. Eighteen inch wheels were the standard on all the HD trucks simply because of the availability of heavier duty tires in that size. I could have stuck with the 20 inch wheels on the 2022 Silverado. But 18 inch tires are still easier to find and cheaper to boot. Besides, I’ve kinda gotten attached to those wheels.

The following is only for those that have the regular toilet. Although those with "composting" toilets have their own list of issues, this is not on it and will be of little interest to them. There is another scenario where the black water can fill the bathroom floor (and beyond) during the black tank flush and dump. (cue the Twilight Zone theme music) ... Picture this, if you will... You've hooked your black flush hose to the outside port and begun to fill your black tank in preparation for dumping. The black tank dump valve is closed as is the shower drain back-flow preventer valve. The black tank needs to be monitored during this step. I do it by holding the toilet flush valve open with my foot on the flush lever while peering down into the tank with a flashlight. Others may simply watch the readout for the black tank on the SeeLevel Tank Monitoring System. However you want to monitor the filling of the tank is largely irrelevant, but you do need to watch it. Consequences will occur if you do not. Everything is running smoothly until a stranger appears at your door and is proclaiming to everyone within earshot that this is the coolest trailer he's never seen, where is it built?, what does it cost?, what is its weight?, how does it pull?, how do you like it? and on and on. Now you're distracted, and in trying to answer his questions, you forget that the black tank is filling with water. Ten minutes later you discover the bathroom has six inches of NASTY water in the floor, it is all around the base of the toilet and is now spilling over the threshold, out the door and into the main cabin. But, it's not overflowing from the toilet, and you discover that the poop and pee is coming up through the shower drain. How could this happen? The black tank plumping is not connected to anything but the main drain and does not interface with the shower drain or gray tank system in any way so there's no possible way it could be doing this, right? But it is doing this. Nasty, Creepy, Perplexing but entirely possible once you understand how the bathroom is actually plumbed. As the water level in the closed black tank rises, it can not escape into the toilet bowl because you’re not paying attention and the flush valve is closed. Neither can it escape down the drain because the black dump valve is closed. Pressure inside the black tank is beginning to rise also as the air trapped inside is being compressed by the rising water. At this point, I can personally advise you to NEVER depress the flush lever. If you wonder what will happen, go ahead and try it and report back here. Now your black tank is completely full and the water has to go somewhere. The increasing pressure inside the tank will begin to push the water up the vent pipe that terminates through the roof from inside the closet. The same pipe is used to vent both the gray and the black tanks. What most do not realize is that this vent pipe also serves as the drain pipe from the bathroom lavatory into the gray tank. As the water level rises inside the vent pipe, it will eventually reach the connection between the drain and the vent pipes. The black water will now enter the drain pipe and, taking the path of least resistance, will flow down the drain pipe seeking entrance to the gray tank where it is stopped by the closed shower drain back-flow preventer valve. Now its only escape is up through the shower drain and out into the world. Just when you thought you didn't have to worry about anything else.

It would be surprising to me also, if I could duplicate what has been said to be happening. The dual hull design of the Oliver TT is more rigid than any other trailer on the market. Anyone who has seen one that has been rolled can attest to the fact that, after it’s all done, there is no resulting distortion or twisting of the body. Normal use can cause the frame to flex and twist but not the body. The body of your trailer moving independently of the frame would indicate to me that one or more attachment points have loosened. If that be the case, you need to get under your trailer and tighten the nuts.

One potential issue I see here is bringing the batteries back up after a 2 hour, A/C lunch break. You have no solar and lithium’s won’t charge from the vehicle while going down the road. Your post sounds like you do not boondock. Why no solar with such a large lithium bank? Do you have a plan?

Looks like a really nicely built trailer. I have several utility trailers from a 4x6 foot box trailer that I built back in the 1990's to carry camping/SCUBA gear in to a 7x18 foot flatbed. In Gardner, MT at the North Entrance to Yellowstone NP - September, 1997. Getting ready to leave on a rafting trip on the Buffalo NR in Arkansas, April, 2003.

Upon closer examination of your photo, I have circled something that puzzled me. If that is part of the rear jack mounting system, it appears the nut may be loose. If so, you need to check that out and tighten it.

The solid red thing with the "two red buttons" is just a insulated cover. The black unit to its right with one red button is one of the circuit breakers. If you push the red button it will go to the disconnected mode and the flag will pop out. One of the breakers will kill all the 12V power in the coach. Those three yellow things are 30 amp fuse holders, one for each of the jacks. Your front jack may have an additional holder at the jack, meaning that jack has two fuses to check if it quits working.

The breakers you are looking for should be under the aft dinette seat, probably mounted to the inside of the aisle wall.

That is too much to pay for a RV Power Inlet - 30 Amp Twist Lock. Its being made from Stainless Steel that makes it so expensive. I really don't like purchasing from etrailer. If you get a defective part, you have to deal with the actual manufacturer of the part for exchange as they won't allow you to send it back to them. I always buy from Amazon. If there's a problem, they will always allow you to send it back.

I've been banned from shopping at one of out local Walmart's here in town. About 6 months ago I was in Walmart buying a large bag of Purina dog food for my beautiful Doberman, Reacher, which weighed 110 lbs. I was in the check-out line when a woman behind me asked if I had a dog. I wondered what she thought I had. So, because I'm retired and have little to do, on impulse, I told her that no, I didn't have a dog, I was starting the Purina Diet again. I explained to her that it was the Perfect Diet. Dog food is nutritionally complete and contains all the nutrients, protein, vitamins and minerals to adequately sustain a large carnivore for a lifetime. I added that the last time, it had worked really well and that I'd lost 50 pounds. Since I had gained back some weight lately, I had decided to give it another go. I told her the way that it works is, to load your jacket pockets with Purina Nuggets and simply eat one or two every time you feel hungry. Further, I told her that I knew I probably shouldn't do this, because the last time, I ended up in the hospital. I explained that I had awakened in the intensive care unit with tubes coming out of most of my orifices and IV's in both arms. (I need to mention here that practically everyone in the checkout line was now enthralled with my story.) Horrified, she asked if I had ended up in intensive care, because the dog food had poisoned me. I told her no, I had stopped to pee on a Fire Hydrant and a car hit me.

SR5 is a trim level and TRD is an upgraded suspension package.

Oh, I do all that the same way you're describing; apps in groups, groups placed where they are easily found. It's still easier for me to glance at a dedicated read-out mounted in the trailer than to jump through all those hoops.