ScubaRx

I’ve always been unclear as to what is so objectionable about a wet bath.

Two medicine CG.

I keep the tires on the Outlaw Oliver, Hull #050 set between 60-65 psi. I formerly ran them all at 80 psi. I think that is too high. As for running them at 55 psi, I think that is fine for most owners. The reason I run more is our trailer is heavier than most all the others (raised bed option, twin 5200 pound axles, 10 ply all steel tires, disc brakes). As has been said MANY times in the past, everyone should buy and install a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS). There are many brands available, Do your own research and select one based on your personal needs and wants.

We get about 13.5 mpg with our Silverado 3500 diesel. With all that we take with us, our entire rig (Truck, Trailer, 2 Passengers, 120 pounds of dogs and gear) weighs almost 18,000 pounds. Our truck has a 3700 pound cargo carrying capacity.

This is exactly why I wouldn’t trust Camping World any further than I could throw a cow by her tail.

Yes, you will “need” it with the smaller truck. In fact, according to the Ford towing guide, any trailer above 5,000lbs requires a weight distributing hitch. You’ve already got a 3/4 ton tow vehicle. Why would you not use it? Were I in your situation, I’d use the $50-60K that would be spent for a less capable truck to just pay the difference between diesel and gasoline and drive the half million miles that amount of money will provide for you.

A man after my own heart…

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Capri-Tools-1-2-in-Drive-1-2-in-Hex-Bit-Socket-3-0558/305590114?g_store=&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25T-025_001_HAND_TOOLS-NA-Multi-NA-SMART-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-Hand_Tools&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25T-025_001_HAND_TOOLS-NA-Multi-NA-SMART-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-Hand_Tools-71700000086053656-58700007291967538-92700065470082093&gclid=CjwKCAjw0dKXBhBPEiwA2bmObZv9tvRhJahr2TsT0YEj4AYoLNASzW-9qBbtR2LAw-koQHgx1ffRBBoCc3cQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

We had no problems with service anywhere in Canada or Alaska. AT&T

I repaired an owner's Oliver at the Rally in May with exactly that same problem. Pretty easy fix. Cause was a loose wire, in fact, exactly the same wire as in the pictures.

The main take away I got from your story is that you were paying attention to what was going on around you, formed and acted on a contingency plan. Without having done so, things would have worked out differently. Perhaps with a much poorer outcome. No doubt, your former military training and good common sense played a big part here.

Rod Stewart I guess this proves most don’t actually read every word in long posts. I know I’ve been guilty.

This has been discussed thru the years. I don’t recall anyone expounding on the merits of this idea. But, that was back in the days before solar and lithium batteries. Please keep the group informed on your experiences using the e-blankets. With today’s technology, you’ve got a good shot at this working. The only problem I can anticipate is completely replacing the overnight amps used the next day. With good sun, it should work.

There are those of us that will remember Oliver’s ill fated foray into building a more “affordable” trailer. A steel frame, cheap plastic hardware, no standard equipment like a furnace or an air conditioner. The Sport, they called it. They built a single example and even at about the same price as a new SOB, it sat unsold at the factory for 5 or 6 years. Nobody seriously considering an Oliver wants that and anyway, there’s already a stripped down Oliver. It’s called a Casita.

Make sure you order it with the highest GVWR available so that you will end with a greater cargo carrying capacity.

If the pump continues to run when the faucets are off and there is water coming from the bottom scupper holes in the hull, you have a leak somewhere. Keep looking.

Take the covers off of the four screws that is holding the front insert onto the vanity. Remove the screws and cut the caulking from around the insert. Pull the insert from the hole being careful of the wire that is attached to the switch.

The Chevy Colorado or the GMC Canyon are not 1500 pickups and their towing capacity is not 8K pounds. The cargo capacity of the Colorado or the Canyon rules them out and they are not up to pulling the weight of a ready to camp Elite II. They would be great for an Elite. The Silverado 1500 is just “adequate” for an Elite II. Because of all the gear you plan to carry, your problem will be cargo capacity. GMC, same as Silverado. The Savannah Cargo Van would probably meet your needs for room and cargo capacity. For the type of travels you state you’re intending to do, as John said, you need a 4WD. Unfortunately, I don’t think this platform is available in anything other than RWD.

I expect that outlet is hot only when plugged into shore power.

The black tank on trailers currently being delivered is 15 gallons.

IF the noise is coming from your suspension system, I would say you need to inspect the bronze bushings inside your spring eyes. Greasing them will hide any noise coming from worn bushings but it won't fix them. They would need to be replaced. A messy, time consuming job but not too difficult. I can give you some tips if it comes to that. https://www.amazon.com/Century-Drill-Tool-44344-Industrial/dp/B004UUGDSE/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3FWZCH5KSBYP2&keywords=silver%2Band%2Bdeming%2B11%2F16"&qid=1659497041&sprefix=silver%2Band%2Bdeming%2B11%2F16%2B%2Caps%2C77&sr=8-3&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Yemtuls-K7129100-Resistant-Machine-Processed-Cast-Processed/dp/B098XGN6PK/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1DKF569NF7SEV&keywords=dexter%2Bbronze%2Bbushing&qid=1659497417&sprefix=dexter%2Bbronze%2Bbushing%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-2-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTUE0S1FJSVo3UDlWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDE2OTA5N1ZYTUkzWlVaNlExJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxMzYwOTgzRFlCQ1NOUEdSQTBIJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1 The first thing I would pay attention to if you hear popping when jacking the tongue is the propane housing cover. Sometimes it will shift forward or backward a bit. Check the nylon bushings attached to the underside of the lid. There have been some recent reports here of them coming off.

I had both my rear jacks out recently for some maintenance. I just used some regular house caulking because that’s what I had on hand. All you’re doing is preventing water from the road being able to get into the hull.

As anyone who's every owned or driven a Corvette knows, fiberglass squeaks. I don't have the problem that you're talking about here but if I did it would be a simple fix to take the foot off the bottom of the jack, remove the nuts from the frame bolts, knock them back up into the the trailer and pull the jack out through the opening under the bed. Take a round file and enlarge the hole where it is rubbing on the jack. Reinstall the jack and re-caulk the hole. Done - maybe an hour?

I've been thinking about that same issue for going on 15 years now. I finally just straightened the hose and just never twist it while removing and replacing it. It works fine for me.

There are four bolts associated with mounting the jacks. Two attach the mounting bracket to the jack tube. The other two attach the bracket to the trailer frame. Make sure all the are tightened down well. I believe all the bolts are carriage style so the nuts are easily tightened with no worries about the bolt spinning in the hole. The bracket to frame are accessible from underneath the trailer. The other two are accessed from under the bed.