Geronimo John

In theory both would accommodate a Honda EU 2200I. BOX SIZE Outside Dimensions Inches Inside Dimensions Inches L W H L W H HONDA EU2200I N/A See Right 20 11.4 16.7 R.M. Action Packer 24 Gallons 26 18.5 17 20 14.5 15 AluBox (124 Liters) 32.7 Gallons 27 16 20.5 25.5 14.5 19 However, I would carry in my generator to Walmart and test fit the Action Packer before buying. GJ

That's the perfect box in every way except one.... The cost at Overland Kitted (Arizona) is $580. A bit out of my budget at that number. Even if they had a RoF (Retired Ole Fart) and a military discount. However if they had a scratch and dent one ...... Sure is a fine looking box.

Thanks. For SURE on the price beating Amazon... by about 50%!

Mossey: Is your Honda the EU2000 or their larger EU2200? If it will fit my EU2200, Amazon has a good price for two of these boxes. Thanks GJ

I too really like the idea of using a silver paint marker to indicate the jack input for trailer raise/lower. Makes sense to have it right there during an problem. in 2018, when Phil toured my OE2 on delivery, he stumbled on describing which way to push the rear jack rocker switches. He by habit raised the trailer when he wanted to, but describing the logic of his habit was a problem. I stated, "So push the upper button to raise the trailer!" He commented that that was an easy way to remember it! So I continue to this day, every time I am about to reach down to those buttons, I think: "Trailer UP push upper button", and "Trailer DOWN push the lower button". So we have another extraordinarily moment for us, Your tomato is not my tomaddo. I will mimic the action of the trailer when the button is pushed for my labeling of the rear jacks, by labeling them in a similar fashion: · JD: Counter clockwise is jack up (Trailer Down) GJ: Clockwise trailer UP · JD: Clockwise is jack down (Trailer Up) GJ: Counterclockwise Trailer Down It also works like my ole screw jack. Clockwise and the truck goes up! Owners are you a tomato or a tomaddo? 😃 GJ

is "UP" trailer up or jack up? GJ

The generator issue has been pummeled many times. Recently the inverter world now has many options for quiet generators. Check it out via the search for some great advice.

You may want to reach out to the mfg of your TPS. I bet they would love to hear your story and would send you the wrench. GJ

Roger. It is FOR US a better choice as we do need freezer space. For comparison, I have looked for hours to see the size of the Dometic RM 2454. Any idea it is in liters? I did find it's 16" X 5", but without the third dimension that data is worthless. And thank you! GJ

Spot on Top Gun! Sorry for not also adding my other prime Safety John caution. If working under Ollie, no matter how you got it up, please have it connected to your 6,000 pound anchor (Tow Vehicle). Best to have the TV in park with the emergency/parking brake set. Finally, add some sort of notice on the steering wheel not to drive off with Ollie with jacks down. I use a simple piece of red flagging across the steering wheel as a reminder (mostly for me) that the jacks are down. When covering 500 mile days, I'll stop for sleep and use that same flagging if I need to just somewhat level Ollie for just for an evening. In the morning, I am anxious to get some more coffee and on the road. Fortunately, the first thing I see is the flagging. 5% of the time, I then get out of the truck and raise the jacks, AND do my full pre-departure inspection. That flagging has saved my jacks more than a few times. Do you have an inside and an outside pre-departure check list? If not send me a PM. GJ

I really like the Secop compressor efficiency and having 4.6 cu ft vs. 3.0 is amazing. My only concern is what appears to be a really small freezer space. Our existing Dometic freezer space appears cavernous by comparison. Being remote often, having two ice cube trays and some space for frozen meats is a requirement for us. Don't know for sure as I have yet to find dimensions of the freezer cavity, but it sure looks tiny. Do any of the other Secop compressor frigs have significantly more freezer space yet still fit in our OE2's? GJ

LOL...... Hey careful! I resemble those remarks!

As always, you are a great advocate and tell it like it is. I appreciate your perspectives on this topic and many others as well. That said, as one of "those owners", I do in the right circumstances use my jacks to level and service Ollie axles. But I never do so when not on asphalt/concrete that is quite level. For soft ground I carry a milk crate full of 2" X 6" blocks for tire/ground leveling first. For service, I have a F-150 jack and jack stands that become support after I have gotten Ollie's tires off my level "Hard Stand". Point is that under the right circumstances, my risk assessment when using backup support stands and blocking, is minimal and mine to be assumed. To be clear, my right circumstances does not include a seismic zone or a wind unstable location (Such as the emergency lane just a few feet from 18 wheelers and Greyhound busses wising by at 80 MPH). That would be foolish even for this Hang Glider and Paraglider pilot.....

True if you are not 4,000 miles cross most of CONUS and an ocean away. 🙂 Yes, I saw that...I'm a 2018 owner. Hence my concern. And yes inspection of the brackets will be on my list of inspections shortly after arrival. However knowing in advance if hull 342 has aluminum brackets could allow me to get the parts in hand for use before I start my long 2023 Summer Tour where such efforts become more difficult to accomplish and the need for functioning jacks becomes very important while boondocking out west in the mountains where camp sites are often not real level. I agree fully. Being a "Safety John", I would also insert the words "Very Level" in front of campsite.

That's good to hear. Thanks. What's the definition of Recent Owners? It would be nice to know what hulls have AL vs. Steel. It would also save a lot of time (and worry) if we had an idea of the number of steel vs. AL.

Bill: Please do split this off into another thread. Every owner of an OE2, and maybe the OE's, needs to know if their jacks are accidents waiting to happen (aluminum) or OTT stout steel ones. This is a true life safety issue for those with aluminum. Thank you Sir. GJ

I really enjoyed living in Utah for a dozen years. With our Ollie's camping there is MUCH more enjoyable. But do take note of the temperature history for the time and area you are planning on visiting. GJ

This is very similar to the response I got last summer for our 3 Battleborns being on top of a mountain in OK where the deep winter potential for zero degrees for a few weeks was my concern with no shore power. They advised in my case to charge to 60% and kill ALL DC loads (Master Kill Switch yea once again!). At even 3% for 9 months it would be down to 33% SOC worst case and winter would have been in a very distant past by then. Good news.

Very true! The Battleborns also have internal management for overcurrent and temperature. And also are the same chemistry as the Lithionics. As such, I don't worry about our batteries running away to thermal overload. What I do keep in mind is the remote possibility of something drawing less than 300 amps when it should not be, and having a way to shut that down too. For fire.... belt and suspenders. @ $40 bucks and some DYI time.....no brainer.... PS: Additional benefit is having a simple way to isolate every DC parasitic current draw with a flip of a switch. As a sage owner reminded me some time ago when I said I just took off a terminal wire... His response was something like "Every weekend???" Slam dunk great response. I know at least one of you is out there smiling now. 🙂

Ralph: Very excellent response. My system is the less complex Battleborn/Victron 712, Orion DC/DC DYI system. Periodically (every few weeks) when I stumble into some shore power, I equalize the batteries. Once they achieve 14.2 volts plus 90 minutes (per Battleborn for my PD 4060 converter) I need to let the system set several hours and it will settle to the "Full Rested Charge" of 13.7 or 13.8 volts. If the 712 SOC is reading 100% I'm done. If not, I reset the meter and it then shows 100% SOC at the full charge voltage. QUETION For Lithionics Owners: On the very nice Lithionics system, is a reset of the SOC required after equalization charge as well? If so, that could explain Donna and Jim's SOC discrepancy. QUESTION For Battleborn Owners: Is my understanding and equalization process correct? Thanks GJ

As a former USAF Engineer and Fire Marshall, I had quite an internal discussion with myself on that very question. Below is the logic I ended up with to select the location I used. I for sure would like other owners to comment. Wherever you put it, it is better to have it than not to have it. My greatest fear is that it will happen at night when I am not present with family occupants. With these thoughts in mind, my fire plan that all using the trailer are advised of is: If you smell, see, or hear smoke look get others out of the trailer and have them call for help (911 or yell fire if others are about) If you can see the cause, fix it or extinguish it with the closet mounted extinguisher. If for what ever reason you can't, just get out of the trailer immediately. Most importantly, I do not want family members having to hunt for a master switch inside during an emergency. Get out of the trailer. So, my first decision of inside or outside was made. Outside access. Some considerations: You don't want to be running a lot of extra wire length of 4/0 300 amp cable for a lot o reasons. It needs to be protected from weather and be ahead of the Victron Shunt and all other battery Positive feeds. Therefore the location was obvious: the battery box just inside of the access door. For connection, I used a piece of copper buss bar for the connection from the terminal to the switch as other owners have posted. Note: For anyone sleeping in our Ollie, I ensure that the compartment is unlocked and they know how to access the closet fire extinguisher as well. And, just to head off a comment, yes, I am taking a risk that somebody may steal our Litho's while the box is unlocked. A risk I accept. Owners: I really would appreciate hearing the negatives of this decision. Only way to learn is to listen. So fire away.

The key word in my post was FED. Fires being fed power from lithiums can transfer a lot of power to the electrical short(s) as compared to the instantaneous power that LA and AGM batteries can generate. I witnessed this at a solar farm where the battery storage building had a short downstream of the Litho's and the fire fighters were in a pickle as the breakers fused and they could not kill the power to the short. What started as a rather large short circuit fed by the litho's ended up turning into a major fire that then involved the batteries themselves. They were there for several days. I absolutely recommend having a Master Shut Off switch that is rated for more amps than the fuse is. In our case many of use 300 amp fuses to power 3000 watt inverters. For this the Blue Seas 350 amp rated switch is a great choice. Best peace of mind I have spent on my Ollie.

That is something that anybody that has fought a fire being fed by Lithium Batteries would curse for days about. If it is not a fire code issue, then it should be.

Excuse me, I'm in trailer #3 and need to leave now. TILT....

I would first check the charge status before doing anything else. "It is dead" may mean the trailer is dark and the master switch is in the off position. Good to know what the posts of the battery says.