Geronimo John

Thanks for posting the one that has worked well over time. Some operational questions: Do you use the water softener only when using city water fill? Or have you plumbed it into the fresh water system. If so, where did you insert it? Can this unit be used on our "draft hose" for the boondock water upload port? Or does it have too much flow restriction to do so? Do you have yours hard-mounted, or simply in storage for water onboarding purposes? How do you winter proof it? Thanks again,

Mossey: You are absolutely correct. Correct term is Pump Head, not impeller. My error. Thanks for the correction.

Earlier this summer mine acted up a couple of times. THANK YOU FOR THE ABOVE POSTS!I That said, four detectors are failing long before the seven year standard... why reward the MFG for their POS detectors by buying more? Does anyone have a suggestion for a longer life more reliable CO/Propane detector that will fit in the same space? Or one we can remove and toss into the trash can at 2:00 AM? Thanks JD: I LOVED "when you are trying to figure out how to kill power to that pesky alarm at 2:00 AM, with that bed occupied by a disgruntled spouse with her pillow held tight over her ears…." I would wager that more than a few of us have experienced your same "joy". LOL

I find the cables a PITA to attach to my F-150 due to their tension and interference with the Anderson system. Frankly, I would swap the OEM Ollie curly cables for some DOT rated yellow chains in a flash. However the PITA they are, is not yet very high on the improvements list. But, before changing hooks, I would fix the latch hook. It's a lot less expensive.

My Ollie is primarily used out west. Over the previous 3 summer seasons, the water flow from the faucets had steadily decreased. I checked all fittings for air intake leakage (Pump Cavitation) and water loss, water pump screen, and even inspected the pump impeller pump head. The impact of using well and spring water was the obvious source of my self-inflicted water flow problem. When the boondock draw rate for a 5-gallon container time increased to over 7 minutes, I knew that I had waited a bit too long to effectively address the issue. So at the beginning of my 2021 Summer Tour, I purchased two large Costco jugs of Vinegar and executed the OTT recommended decalcification process. With some modifications, it worked very well. Basically, our faucets/showers water flow "grade" went from a "D-" to a "B+". For MY situation, my waiting three years to de-calcify was too long. As a short-term solution, I have added the de-calcification process to my required maintenance effort at the beginning of each odd year. Long term, a water softener is on the horizon. BTW, they are not cheap.... In the meantime, my future summer improvement priorities for my Ollie are: A. Lithium Conversion in 2022 (Thanks to Overland for the tip: "...I see that Battleborn have their standard 100Ah battery on sale for $799 right now, which is the best price I've seen since I bought mine in '17". I just purchased three of them. 🙂 B. Houghton Conversion in 2023 C. Water Softener in 2024

@ Bill: LoL "Back in the Day". Those single latch trays were used on my 2018 Ollie. Hopefully that ancient time, just 3 years ago, does not qualify for us to be "Ole Timers"!!!! On a previous post you are correct about "bolting" the single latch and using a nut and bolt. This topic was addressed a couple of years ago, way back in 2019 I think, and I commented that instead of using a nut, to use a RivNut so that we are not having to fish the nut after we drop it. For those not acoustomed to RivNuts (AKA: Rivet Nuts, Blind Flange Nuts, etc.), below is a sample. If you are not familiar as to how they are installed, send me a PM. Mahalo!

Thank you SOOOOOO much for this data. Geronimo John Lives in Hi, Ollie in OK. Somewhat of a PITA for project planning. But it is what it is.

I'll give them a call to see if the PD 9200 series will work with my PD 4000 series. Thanks. GJ

@ ScubaRX: Is that three 270 Ah Battleborns? Or three smaller ones? Thanks JPR

I can't look as I'm 4,000 miles from my Ollie, but one of the technical staff indicated that there is a jumper that can be removed from the Converter and dropped down a hole to switch the Converter from AGM/L.A. to Lithium. The black jumper has two pins that are in the top and middle slot. It is in the AGM and Lead Acid position. By pulling out the jumper, and putting it into the center and bottom hole, you have set the PD 4000 series Converter to the Lithium mode. Doing so will still put you about .2V short of the desired equalization voltage for many such batteries. If this is not what you are speaking of, I would SURE appreciate it if you could post a picture and maybe the ordering info for the Pendent. Thank you,

@ Patriot: If you don't mind, some questions from a soon to be Lithium owner: What batteries do you have? What are their dimensions and overhead clearance? Thank you Geronimo John

I searched the University and Forum and did not find an answer. So am asking here as at least this topic in sort of on topic to this thread.... sort of. 🙂 What is size the inside dimensions of our OE2 battery tray, and what is the vertical clearance from tray to ceiling of the storage bay? I am laying out possible solar batteries and associated equipment and want to make sure they will fit. I thank you, Geronimo John MODERATORS: If there is a better place to post this, I would appreciate your moving this post as appropriate. Thanks.

I was speaking to Larry at Lifeblue Lithium and he mentioned something about Progressive Dynamics having an inexpensive "Pendant" that allows us to manually increase the stock 2,000 Watt PD converter output to periodically increase the voltage for topping off lithium batteries. Does anyone have any insights as what this is and how it works? Thanks,

Brad: I spend three months a year in our Ollie. We mostly boondock. Over the past four summers, we have averaged 5,400 miles a summer. Mostly out west in the mountains. We don't have AGM or Solar. I am not up-to-date on what the new Optional/Standard features are, so please forgive me on that. That said, from your above first post, here is what comes to my mind: For A/C, we run a Honda EU2000, as well to charge our Lead Acid (L.A.) batteries during afternoons. One trick I use is to meter the amount of fuel I put into the generator tank based upon how long I want it to run in the afternoons. Sort of a way not to overcharge should I not be in the area. You may want to explore if your Ford 7.2 KW generator has an auto shut off based upon the Status of Charge (SOC). That would be really cool. Pretty much all the OE2 loads can be covered by a 30 amp 120V feed. Your 7,200 watt Ford generator can theoretically put out about twice this amount of power. So with the truck, you should not require an additional generator. However, the fuel efficiency of a Honda EU2200i may be very beneficial should you do a LOT of boondocking. With your on-board Ford generator, and it's remote start, you can easily extend your SOC (State of Charge) for morning heavy 120V electrical loads and not have to leave your bunk to do so. Just be aware of the neighbors. Overall, our lead acid batteries work OK. I do stress them every morning with our coffee and microwave cooking, as well as at night with microwave cooking. They have lasted us over four years now, but I suspect that next summer I will want/need to replace. Most likely with lithium's. I suspect that you could save $$ by getting the standard L.A, and then waiting a few years for the Litho upgrade. You will FOR SURE want to have an Anderson Charge Plug option at the front of your trailer to make easy connection from your Ford rear power point. I would also get the 3,000 watt inverter if you can. The lead acid batteries will not make use of the extra 1,000 watt capability. But when you get the lithium's, you WILL be glad you had that upgrade. to allow A/C, microwave and coffee pot all at the same time! (GJ Update: All at one time may be a bit excessive. ) For sure get the EZ Start for the A/C. I don't recommend the mattress upgrade. My budget solution was to purchase via Amazon a Zinus 6 Inch Ultima Memory Foam Mattress. I got the larger one (Queen I think but double check this), and used a butcher knife to EASILY cut it long wise, and rounded the rear outside corners for a perfect fit on the twin beds. I place my Zinus below the Ollie standard mattress, and my wife does the opposite. Saves $$$ and works very well. But then bedding is something that is different for everybody. The extra height of both mattresses stacked does make the couch cushions a bit tall. I may try not using the factory mattresses this coming summer to mitigate this issue some. But then, the stack up sure works great for sleeping.... We chose to get one set of couch cushions. Why not two? Because one set will store at night nicely in the dinette area. Two sets much less so nicely. Just some thoughts from a RoF (Retired Ole Fart) :-).

Steve and Mary: Welcome to the Oliver Owners Family. As you know, we on the Oliver Forum love to help out the new owners in any way we can. If you don't find info via the search, just start a new thread and one of the experienced owners, if not several of them, will just about always in good faith try to help. I suspect that you are aware that the number 888 has special biblical significance. 888 is the angel number, and means renewal, infinite abundance, and new beginnings. How cool for you both. I wish you the very best, and that the angels be with you both in all your travels, especially with your beautiful OE@.

Note: I don't have solar or big lithium power systems. On my departure check list I have a requirement to decide to leave the outside electric switch on or off. If my next stop has 30 amps, then by all means I leave the electric power on to the water heater. But if my next stop has only a 20 amp, or if I will be using my Honda EU200I, I turn the electric off to the hot water heater. My check list also has me turn the refrigerator to gas only. When I arrive at at a site that does not have 30 amp service, if my trailer is hot inside, my priority is to get the AC on ASAP. I check that: My battery charge is OK That the refrigerator is still on gas only I then turn off the Converter (On board battery charger) at the breaker. Doing so pretty much assures me that there will not be any significant electrical loads against the generator other than the A/C. It took me a while to figure out that the 45 amp converter is a silent power theft for when I want the AC on. 😞 The above has worked well for me.

the new Truma Aventa listed for a mere $2,150. I love German engineering, but not at 2X the cost for a unit too small for an OE2 to boot. It looks like Houghton still has the market corned at this moment. Good news is more players, more cost competition down the road.

SeaDawg: Posted August 10 ..."It's inverter compressor technology, so no easy start necessary. But, it also comes with a $2500 price tag. And, #2 wire needs to be run". Your assessment of the 12V unit reminded me to ask if the 120 volt RP-AC2801 and RP-AC3400 units are inverter units? Multi-speed compressors and circulation fans? Or just cycle on less often? thanks

Can you elaborate more on the drain incompatibility issue? Reason I am asking is the Houghton unit is significantly shorter in height than our turbojet hammer mill OEM unit. As such, maybe we could use some of this height for this drain issue. One example for pondering would be to install rubber mat or conveyor belt section(s) on the roof of Ollie under the Houghton unit? It possibly could provide two benefits and still be shorter than OEM: A bit additional sound deadening. Not all that necessary with the ultra quiet Houghton, but some benefit none the less. Many older RV's use mats for this purpose. A potential access and gravity flow path to the existing Oliver installed drain system. Your thoughts? Thanks, PS: Any owners installing a new Houghton: Please send pictures of the Oliver and Houghton drain systems if you can. GJ

Steven: Your question is a good one. I really dislike our Dometic 13,500 BTU "Hammer Mill" air conditioner. We have such a wonderful trailer and the noise of the Dometic air conditioners is my, and many other owners, biggest concern. Much has been said about this noise issue. For this posting, I am asking for owner inputs not about noise, but only capacity of their units. IMHO, my four years of full time summer use in hot and sunny locations is that the 13,500 Btu unit is oversized for temperatures up to 106 degrees F in 85% sun that I have experienced. Apparently Oliver agreed as they reduced the size down by 2,500 BTU's to 11,000. From Oliver University manuals for the past four years, it appears that owners have these units: 2018 Used 13,500 Btu A/C exclusively. 2019 Used both 11,000 and 13,500 units. I suspect that they were using up stock this year. 2020 Used 11,000 BTU A/C exclusively. 2021 Used 11,000 BTU A/C exclusively. Assuming that the above is correct, we have now two full summers (2020 & 2021) and maybe for early 2019 units, a third full summer experience with the smaller A/C units in our OE2's. For the 2019 owners that have the smaller unit, and all of our 2020 and 2021 owners, I respectfully request your thoughts on the smaller A/C's ability to keep Ollie cool in extremely hot situations. Specifically: Is your Oliver 11,000 BTU air conditioner effective in extremely hot temperatures? If yes, how high of an outside temperature did you experience? What was the situation? Either way, what is your opinion as to the limit that the 11,000 BTU unit could handle in outside temperatures? If you have an 11,000 BTU a/c in your OE2, have you ever wished it was the larger unit? If so, please let us know your situation. Thank you all! Geronimo John

I like the TeleSteps Climbing Latter Type 1, Model 1600E, OSHA Compliant. They make two models of the 1600 ladder. One is 250 pound rated, and the other is 300 pound rated. If you are over 200 pounds dressed, I would get the 300 pound version. It's about $40 more. I store it in the front closet on the front facing wall. It is padded with extra towels that we carry, but rarely use. The Pool Noodle is a good idea. It would need to be removeable to adjust for different locations on the trailer and varying ground levels. For storage putting the noodle on top as a cushion would be logical. PS: the cloths on the rod sort of hold the ladder foreword when traveling. I have had zero issues with this ladder in the past four seasons covering over 21,000 Oliver trailer miles. There are cheaper ones out there, but the vast majority are not OSHA rated. So be sure to compare them well.

I am seriously looking at the Houghton A/C sound numbers and they are "music to my ears"! From what I have read, the Dometic is 11 1/4" tall. The Houghton 13.5 unit is 13 1/2" tall. The Houghton 9.5 unit is 9" tall. My "dark barn" floor to rafters just barely allows the Dometic, but would not allow the larger (13.5) Houghton. Hence, I am looking at the 9.5 unit for my 2018 LE2. Some questions: A. When did Oliver change from the 13.5 Dometic to the 11.0 units? See later post with questions B. Does anyone have hot weather experience with the 9.5 unit in their LE2? Thank you, thanks for the correction. Please disregard this post.

For sure that's the case. Living in Hawaii, with my Ollie on the mainland, she only gets out once a year. Granted, it's for a 3 to 4 month spin around the USA. After her exercise, she gets a nice cover and rests in a dark barn. So a wrench is logical in my case. Not so for most owners who are out and back many times a season.

My combination wrench was paid for 50 years ago. It works real good on the terminal to disconnect and kill all loads. Cost me about 90 seconds longer than switching a switch. Just saying why add more weight for almost no value?