SeaDawg

I'll agree, the Elite is a very pricey little trailer. Ours has basically paid for itself in 14 years of service and memories, but will you keep yours that long? (We obviously plan on keeping ours much longer!) And, will you use it enough to justify having it? These are questions only you can answer or predict. Ours is normally used at least 3 to 5 months a year. A number of Oliver owners had Casitas before. It's a good trailer, one has much the same floorplan as the Elite, but the cost difference is in accessories, carpeted walls, and lots of wood and particle board inside. A friend of mine has owned one now for over a decade. She's been able to store it inside most of its life, so that helps. My sister had an Rpod for a few years. Aluminum frame, one piece composite roof. A reasonably priced, easy tow trailer. Again, she was able to store it inside, so that was a big plus for her. They sold it because they were too busy with work to take the ling trips they'd hoped for. They're back to a big tent for weekends, until they can retire. My husband and I looked at literally over a hundred different trailers before we chose the Oliver. I don't know what you've seen so far, besides the two Oliver models. Good luck in your decision.

Let's think about it. Almost every major brand makes far better tires than the ply tires we used to have, back in the day. They're also much more expensive, so really, an investment. I like at tires because of the (usually) stronger sidewalls, and usually decent performance in rain, and performance on a variety of road surfaces. And, they look good on a truck. 🤣 Even at tires are engineered to be more quiet than they used to be, but you'll lose some tiny fraction of gas mileage because of their better road grip. (Maybe cost $40 or $50 a year more in fuel cost, for the average driver, from what I've read.) I can live with that. And, I can turn the radio volume up a notch for better tires. Most of us have developed a fondness for particular brands, after years of buying tires. Just make sure what you get exceeds the oem specs for load range, (definitely load range e for towing) definitely lt tires,, not p metric, and has the features for the weather you have to drive in. Tirerack used to test snow performance in Sweden. Don't know if they still do, but I think they're a pretty reliable source for testing and reviews. And, like I said, snow performance is not usually an issue for me. Where John lives, I'd buy winter tires. Where I live and usually drive, irrelevant. Where you live, maybe, maybe not. It all depends. Get a good tire, at a good place with good warranties. I like the nationwide distribution and repair options of Costco and SamsClub. That said, we buy our trailer tires at a local place that loves trailers. Neither Costco nor Sam's will bust , remount, and spin balance here, unless we take the wheels and tires off and take them in. That's just too much of a pain, for us, except for the small boat trailer. Maybe ok for others. I don't usually buy a 5th tire for my truck, and rotate through. Maybe my bad, but I just keep the best of the old set, and use it as a limp to shop spare if I have a flat, which is actually also rare these days. (My few flats in the last ten years have been a bolt or screw in the tire.)

Thats funny. I wish my outlets were on the aisle side, instead of under the dinette, in my 2008. I feel like I'm standing on my head to connect power cords, so rarely use them. We have 4 12v- over the stove, under the table, one beneath the attic, and one outside. 4 110s- one above the (abandoned) microwave , one under the small dinette, one on the side of the kitchen drawer cabinet, one outside. Maybe five. I think there is also one (abandoned) in the attic for the abandoned KingDome. We rarely have 110, but I do occasionally use the 12v plugs for charging phones. My sister's rpod had not a single 12v plug when she bought it. They're pretty easy to add, though. I like Patriots tiny solution.

Amazing, isn't it? Heavy spring, and plastic clips, and what appears to be nylon cord. At least it's heavier guage than what was in my LG dishwasher, and easier to replace... Same parts for Thermador and Gaggineau. Dishwasher was approximately 1k, on sale, six years ago. Cord, and plastic. Attached to spring, which also seats in a slot of, yup, plastic. Edit to add: while I was at my mom's today, helping her with her cell phone issues, Paul installed the springs and cords. Took maybe a half hour, total. Amazon one day delivery today, for the parts. So, dishwasher fixed. One icemaker of two now working. A lot of little things in one week ar home.. Pita.

This popped up today. Rivian's very cool camp kitchen, that slides out of a space between the cab and truckbed. The only thing that isn't cool is the price. I've read that it's going to be a $5k option. But, it does come complete with all dishes, pots and pans, and they throw in a coffee grinder...

My best guess. No solar. No continuous power.

From what you've described, I'd guess that your system is setup for gas, but had os turned off. Please check,and let us know

I hope it works. A glass of any white wine, when we meet someday, will be appreciated , If it works. I hope it does. We've never used a wdh, as we have the smaller elite. Bigger tow vehicles, never needed the extra accouterments.

What is your battery voltage? Fridge will not run on dc with low battery. Theres a kickoff level . Hooked to 110, you fridge would run, because it's getting plenty of voltage. Check your voltage at the time you stop, before you connect the trailer to 110.

@Wayfinder, maybe this will help? https://news.pickuptrucks.com/2019/03/2019-ram-1500-with-air-suspension-what-you-need-to-know-before-towing.html

I don't think it would ever close in a bulldog, Fritz, but never tried. Interesting point.

Sometimes it's kind of tight, even when the lever is completely released, because of the positioning of the ball against the side of the hitch, or tight to the front. Try what townesw said. If the jack still wants to "lift" the rear end of the truck, try sitting/bouncing on the side of the bumper when it's lifted an inch or two (enough that it should have disengaged) to break it free. It doesn't take a lot. Paul can do it by pushing down on the lifted bumper. I have to bounce my body weight on the bumper. Yes, put a tiny bit of grease on the ball. Don't use a pry bar. This is the best hitch ever, imo, and might just be a learning curve thing since you're used to the old school hitch. The reason it "sticks" occasionally is also the reason it's so bulletproof. When hitching back up, check to see if the ball is not centered, but is actually resting against the side of the latch. It won't close if it is resting next to the latch. If it is, you need to raise the jack, and reposition the truck so that the ball is centered in the actual hitch, mostly to the non-nonlatch side, so you can close the lever. Btw, this is so obvious I hate to ask, but you are retracting the collar, right? Reed Lukens did a nice video a few years back explaining (with video) the working concept of the bulldog. Maybe you (or someone else) will find it helpful.

Looks great, inside and out! Enjoy your time at davy Crockett, and try every system while you're close to Hohenwald. Welcome to Ollieworld.

Yes. When we had Sam's club membership, prices and services were comparable. The snowpeak and flake are on the sidewall.

How to replace the springs on my Bosch dishwasher door, which landed with a thud on the kitchen floor tonight. Exciting, right? Next up, quick amazon search for the parts .

Rvshare.net is a good place to rent a travel trailer or rv. These are owners who use the reshape website to broker their own trailers once in awhile, or often, to defray their own costs. When my sister and her husband thought they wanted to buy a tab, we rented one for several days in Asheville. They learned something about basic rv life, boondock camping with us, and learned specifically that the tab wouldn't work for them. Some of the owners will deliver, set up, and instruct, as well. Not a bad way to start. Here in Tampa Bay, we have a couple companies that deliver vintage trailers to state parks, and rent the trailer for long weekends or weeks. One piece at a time. Next time, maybe, drive yourself. The systems (dumping, three way fridge, ac, etc.) Are similar in most rvs. They are very different from tent camping. If you like visiting cities, I'd look at a van camper. If you like exploring, and visiting the parks, etc., a towable, trailer is the choice of many. I agree with Mike. Camping in an Oliver is so much easier and nicer than tent camping. Furnace keeps you warm, ac keeps you cool (if you have hookups), a nice comfy bed that doesn't deflate during the night, and everything you need for daily life is in your own trailer. Still, the life is not for everyone.

The Elite is a few feet shorter than the II, and about 6 inches more narrow. It also has a bit less head height, so if you are taller than 6 ft, or maybe 6'1", you may not enjoy the height. The bed is smaller, also. 54" wide, like a home full size bed, in our Elite, but a few inches longer than a full. The bed is east/west, so the person on the inside either has to climb over the outside person, or disturb the sleeping partner to get up. Because the Elite I is more narrow, and shorter, it's more difficult to arrange twin beds. An old floorplan had one across the back, and used the side dinette dropped down to a 24" by 6' long twin, which is small, unless that person is small in stature. (For reference, that's about the depth of an average sofa seat, and about the length of an average 84" sofa, without the arms.) We have found our original Elite to be quite comfortable for several weeks to months at a time. When it moves from city to cramped is in bad weather. I'll chime in on advice above: see them both.

Scout the reviews on tires on Tire rack, and pay close attention to the reviews that mention your climate, and especially your truck. At least, that's something I do. Then I watch for a sale from a local distributor, usually Costco, where I get free rotation and road hazard, etc. We have a number of Tundra owners here who could offer some suggestions. I recently put Pirelli Scorpion AT plus tires on my 2005 Silverado. They have the little snowpeaks, though I hope I never need them. (We live in Florida.) They're relatively quiet (for an AT tire), and they stop nicely in our heavy rains. I looked for good rain performance. Not as great a distance mileage rating as some others, but my truck rarely leaves the greater Tampa Bay area. We towed a few hundred miles with them, in good weather, they were fine, but I have the small trailer, and a smaller truck. I'll be looking for tires for Paul's big Ram soon. He's been happy with the last two sets of Bridgestone Dueler Alenzas, so we'll probably stick with those. Again, we don't do a lot if snow, at least not intentionally, though it happens. Tires are a big investment these days. They also last a lot if miles. Hope you find the perfect ones. Also, try the Tire Rack decision maker tool. It can narrow the field some, then read reviews everywhere. https://www.tirerack.com/content/tirerack/desktop/en/tire_decision_guide.html

We have found the smaller Elite to be perfect for us, now in its 14th season. It is shorter, 6 inches or so more narrow, and a few inches less head height. If you're over 6' or 6' 1", you might not be able to stand straight up. My husband is 5'11", I'm barely 5'4", so no issues for us. The bed is smaller, more like a full size than a queen, and east/west. No pantry. Bath is a bit smaller. Kitchen counter is shorter, so no real counter space, except the lid of stove if closed, or the space in front of the microwave. It's cozy in all seasons, but can feel cramped in inclement weather. But, that's why trailers have wheels... They all live big on the outside. We have never been tempted to change up to the bigger trailer. We like the size, the weight, the way it follows in the tracks of the truck, and the way it tows. And can legally tow it with every vehicle we own, except the '58 TR3. I, too, would encourage you to see both. Neither trailer is for everyone.

The badges came with our recent software upgrade. Don't feel bad about "newbie" status. That was mine, too, when it started, and I'm a forum original member, 2008. It appears to be tracking some things as you post, etc., updating some levels, not others. I'm now an "apprentice." Like jim_oker said....

I think 2020 presented some aberrations, as NCEagle mentioned. And, I feel bad for any of you who went away with fiberglass dust and slivers. It shouldn't happen. But, obviously happened to some. Hopefully, Covid challenges won't continue.

Hull #36 has had two really great owners. Now, it's your legacy. Let your camping adventures begin. And enjoy!

Pay attention to

I'm guessing your awning slides into the roller on a bolt rope sewn into the fabric. Uneven tension or stretching with wind or rain, or uneven rolling could shorten one side. (Sort of like candy striping on a jib sail roller furling, but not quite.) Glad you figured it out! Happy camping, in the shade.

The Elite, the original Oliver design is shorter, lighter, one axle, and about six inches more narrow. And, much lighter, which opens up the realm of possibilities in tow vehicles, but not so light as to be towed by some smaller suvs. 14 years of towing, we say it really is an easy tow. Tracks exactly within the truck path. Because it's smaller, you get a smaller bed (full size, a little long), a slightly smaller bath, and no pantry or nightstand. There is also less head height, but up to 6 ft or so in height, you're good. It would be good if you could see both, before you decide. We could easily trade up, but don't want to. We have everything we need, in small space. It fits in very awkward sites. 14 seasons in, we're still good.