topgun2

SeaDawg - Perhaps you have already taken a look at this ONE. Bill

There are a number of owners here on the Forum that have done what you are talking about and there have been a number of discussions about it here. Try the "search" function using GPS or security or safety or -------. Bill p.s. for instance you might want to look HERE.

Yep - Overland's cooktop orientation is/was the original and - probably - the safest in that one does not have to reach across a potentially lit burner in order to get something off the back burner. A cheaper way to keep the bed from getting "splashed" is to get something like THIS. However, while this splash guard can be moved around and even folded and put away in a drawer, it does not give the added counter space that Overland's mod gives. Bill

I've also had a couple of those "dull" patches since new and I've tried (not very much or very hard) to polish then out by hand with no success. I'll be interested to hear how this recommended product works. Bill

That's how we keep the Martians from reading our thoughts!☺️

A number of years back - corian was tried in the Olivers but was deemed too heavy to be practical. I thought that the stainless top was done by Raspy. Bill

And, welcome to you too. Given the current weather down in the Sunshine State, I would think that you could have that 2019 setup in no time and on the road. Let us know if you have questions! Bill

Yes, basically the cushions do fit the platform exactly and they are using 4 inch foam. Bill

For virtually all "basic" things I'm positive that you will not have to pay them during orientation. However, I'd be willing to bet that a nice box of donuts would help both you and them get things going.😃

SherMica - I simply did a search for "chain" and came up with this post - there just may be more there but this should get you started. Bill https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4567-boondocking-and-securing-valuables/?tab=comments#comment-46261

Great - just in time for hurricane season. 😁

Congrates on your retirement and thanks for what you did. I second Mike's thoughts on the factory tour. You'll learn a bunch about how these things are built, get to touch, feel and see if an Oliver is really right for you. There really isn't any pressure. Good luck! Bill

You might want to take a look at THIS recent update review (and the previous review by the same person) for information on this generator. Bill

Voyager - I feel your pain. Prior to finding Olivers I looked at Casitas. At the time I felt that it was bad enough that I would need to adjust to a wet bath, but in the Casita I could not stand straight up to take a shower (I'm "only" 6 foot tall). Add to this the single shell and "rat fur" and overall lack of "quality", it didn't take me long to know that Casitas were not right for me. The first thing I did when I got to see a real Oliver was to step into the bath to make sure I could stand straight up - success! Obviously, with your being 6'2" you have a slight "height problem" in the Oliver bath. I'm not the one who had this idea, but, it has been explained to me that the "real estate" inside all campers is fairly "expensive". That is, there is only a finite amount of it and one has to decide what they want to do with every square inch of it in order to maximize the utility, comfort, etc.. Oliver could make a dry bath - simply get rid of the closet. But, I, for one, am glad that the closet is there. Given the amount of time the average person spends in the bathroom each day, let alone the shower, I'm guessing that the closet has much more use. Bottom line - if a wet bath bothers you then do not purchase an Oliver. Or be willing to do a fairly extensive alteration of your new Oliver. Bill

I don't really think there are too many "tips on buying" that you probably don't already know. Since you have already owned a Casita, you are aware of how this type of camper holds its value and how they tend to stay solid as long as they have had even minimal care. And, with the aluminum frame of the Oliver, worries of rusting are virtually eliminated. So, if you are truly interested all you have to do is decide which model is to your liking and then be prepared to write the check quickly. Good luck! Bill

And/or try THIS. Bill edit - if your new to the Forum simply left click on the underlined word in the sentence above. Good luck with your research and (if you can) be sure to take a look at each model you're considering in person before you make your final decision.

Certainly I agree but sure do wish someone could find a way of keeping all those cows quiet 😆.

You're welcome. The 12 volt socket that I used is very similar to THIS ONE versus the one I link to above but (for what its worth) I think the one at WalMart was a touch cheaper. In conversations with Patriot, he has told me that his new Ford Tremor has powered switches at the top of the windshield - bottom of the headliner. If an easy way of feeding the power wire exists to allow going through the firewall where the fuse box is located for these switches, wiring into these would provide a slick result with the ability to switch on/off the power to the rack. I did consider "fishing" the power wire over to the fuse panel that is located on the outside of the passenger footwell. Once there I would have found a circuit like the one for the sun roof that is switched via the ignition. But, obviously, I was simply too lazy and since the Garmin doesn't consume very much power (particularly when the screen is off) I'm not worried about draining my battery if I forget to unplug the Garmin when I stop for the night. Bill

Craig - Thanks to both you and Patriot for the kind words. The 12 volt outlet that I used is THIS. I mounted this to the underside of the Builtright rack with double sided 3M VBR tape. Then I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the Ford's dash tray to feed the outlet's wires through and attached the negative to a bolt (to ground to the frame of the truck) that is located directly below the tray. Then I ran the power wire down to the 12 volt outlet that is in the Ford's dash and spliced into the power wire coming out of the back of that socket. All of this is fairly easy as long as you are "gentle" making sure that you do not break any of the plastic clips holding your dash together. There are a number of YouTube videos showing how this is done. Bill p.s. The actual outlet I purchased at WalMart has one 12 volt socket and two USB ports in it versus the two 12 volt sockets shown in the socket on Amazon. I did this because I plan on using the 12 volt outlet for the Garmin and at least one of the USB ports for a cell phone. Also, as far as I'm aware, most of the dash cams and my TPMS can/are powered by USB and if I want to mount either or both on the rack I will have the power right there. Further, I should note that when all is put together, I can not see the outlet from either the driver's or passenger's seat. I take the Garmin's power cord, plug it into the outlet and then stuff the excess wire under the rack - you can't see any of it and yet the Garmin can easily be dismounted from the rack and transferred into another vehicle.

Larry - Since I rarely camp in the winter and (as you point out) the 20 lb tanks are very easy to either swap out or get refilled, I chose to not upgrade to the 30 lb tanks and have not regretted that decision. Since I really don't know what temps you will be camping in during the winter, it is hard to tell or even guess what your propane usage might be. But, I only use just over one 20 lb tank in the two months during the summer I'm fishing. This includes having the fridge always on propane and heating water from time to time when there is not enough sun for my solar shower and for a brief warming of the interior on those mornings when it is cold outside due to usually camping above 7,000 feet. Bill

Steven - Depending on how much shade you are getting, the ac should be able to cool the interior down anywhere from 15 to 20 degrees below the exterior ambient temperature. Obviously, it also reduces the humidity. Bill

I'll add my welcome - both to the Forum and (almost) to the family. Traveling with the pups I'm sure that you will find that the Oliver's sleek interior is very easy to keep clean and looking like new. If only you could train those pups to do the cleaning for you! Bill

I don't think that it is sail switch either. I've never had this issue with the furnace but have had a similar issue with the fridge. I solved it by taking compressed air - a can of THIS kind of stuff is sufficient. Be careful to NOT blow back towards the needle valve but do blow out around the burner, the igniter, and up the flue. It doesn't take much dirt, dust, bug stuff to cause a failure on that igniter sensor. BIll

Over the years I have not had all that many situations where I needed to lift the tires (one side at a time) off the ground. In all but one situation I have used the onboard jacks/stabilizers for this purpose. However, there was one situation when I used the jack included with my tow vehicle. With all of my campers owned previous to the Oliver, I simply used a 4 ton bottle jack. If you decide to use the bottle jack, consider preparing a block of wood to accept the rather small head of the jack. Not only does this help prevent the head of the jack from slipping but it also helps distribute the load over a greater surface area when jacking. Bill p.s. (edit) also consider carrying something that can be used to raise the jack higher towards the frame and/or reduce the distance from the jack/stabilizer(s) to the ground. This "something" can be as simple as a couple of 1 or 2 by 6 boards or 6x6 blocks.

Which is why one gets something like THIS. Bill