John E Davies

Try increasing the differential number. I don’t have that AC model, but I think the clicks are normal. The furnace gets its actual commands from the board inside the AC. BTW you don’t really need to add any standard equipment details to your Hull description, though you can add options if you like, but please do add your Tow Vehicle. John Davies Spokane WA

Would you please take some pictures of the installation and control unit? Did Oliver retain that enormous air intake grill under the curb side bed (which allows you to hear all the RACKET from the old style furnace fan.) If you have an iPhone, can you please download this app and do some noise testing? If you have Twin, lie on the curb side one with your head facing the galley, and the phone over your chest. Make sure the trailer is dead quiet other than the furnace. https://apps.apple.com/us/app/decibel-db-sound-level-meter/id1227650795 I have some numbers from my furnace, it would be interesting to compare them, please start a new thread! The numbers below are NOT from my furnace. Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

If it operates normally up to the time it starts short cycling, it is most certainly a control problem. Does it do the same thing when cooling? I guess you will have to wait until June to try that….. 😳 An RV tech should be able to diagnose it very easily by installing a temporary test thermostat. This would be covered by your warranty, so don’t worry too much. Old mechanical thermostats have an adjustable “dead zone”. I think that the digital types do have some sort of selectable value for this, to reduce short cycling under certain situations.. EDIT, your Dometic manual shows the default settings, it may be that something was not programmed right. That would be very easy to check. “Furnace Differential” refers to the dead band, in other words, the temp has to drop 2 degrees before the stat will send an “On” request to the furnace. If it were set to 1 or 0 (if that is even possible) it would short cycle. If it is set to 2 degrees, try changing it to a higher number. John Davies Spokane WA

Parasitic (stray) electrical loads are common in RVs. There are certain items that just don’t turn off unless you physically disconnect the batteries (or install a master cutoff switch). If you have solar and park outside, it is not an issue because the batteries remain topped up. If you don’t have solar you should flip off all the circuit breakers except the battery charger. A super super easy way to check for stray current loss is by using a clamp on ammeter. I have one of these and it is excellent for stuff like this, and checking out brake current. In fact, I like mine so much I bought two more to gift to my kids. YIRU UNI-T UT210 Series True RMS Digital Clamp Meter AC/DC Voltage Tester with ohm, Capacitance Measurement Good luck. And please add info to your signature. John Davies Spokane WA

Frank beat me to it. Your FLOODED lead acid batteries should be kept in a garage, not your house, they vent hazardous and flammable H2 gas when charging. Maintaining them correctly is a PITA and you need to wear safety goggles when checking the electrolyte specific gravity. You should have a small digital voltmeter to check each battery individually. This chart shows the normal "open cell" (NO load) voltages for a single 6 volt battery. 11.6 volts on your inside meter indicates completely dead batteries (IF there are no other loads running)! Were there any 12 volt items operating when you checked that? If no loads, they may not be usable, except as core trade-ins. You definitely don't want your discharged batteries to freeze, they will split open and spill acid everywhere John Davies Spokane WA

If it should come uncoupled and wreck the trailer with no batteries in it, and injure some other party, you will be crucified in court, and your insurance would not cover you either. OTH If you have a medium sized lawn mower 12 volt battery in good condition (and fully charged) at home, you could install that in place of your big RV batteries. Even if it is a different type, it would work fine, just be sure to turn off all chargers if they are set for lithium batteries. You would need to rig some sort of adapter wires, your great big cables are too massive for the small terminals. As always, check your emegrgency breakaway switch before departing. https://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Max-Battery-ML5-12-Rechargeable/dp/B00K8UO288 It would be a whole lot simpler to just remove the main batteries at the storage lot and bring them back home. John Davies Spokane WA

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3248-how-to-service-your-furnace/ John Davies Spokane WA

What route gives you 5000 miles to Hohenwald? It should be around 2500. Been there, done that, in spring time. My son lives in Redmond, we visit him often. John Davies Spokane WA

I think using Spray 9 on vehicles is a VERY bad idea. I have no personal experience but I found a thread about it. “It will strip anything he has for protection on the paint. It has a PH of around 13.5 and will melt tree sap. It is a good grease remover that does clean, and sanitize, a lot of surfaces. I use it around the house quite a bit because of it's germ, virus, odor and mold etc. killing effect. It is a very versatile product. He is cleaning his paint for sure but is leaving it with no sacrificial layer and open to attack from the elements.” https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/71894-spray-nine.html There are a lot of products that are effective, but some are really hard on your finish, for example Dawn dishwashing liquid. I will use it to intentionally strip off wax. Most detailing sprays contain carnauba wax, I use Griots Speed Shine which does not have any, so it is safe for use with a clay bar prior to applying Rejex (which must be applied to a WAX FREE base). It isn’t a super effective cleanser by itself, but it is completely harmless to your paint or gelcoat.. Always start with a mild cleaning product, then progress up to the more harsh ones if necessary. Leave the Spray 9 for crime scene cleanup….😬 John Davies Spokane WA

Steve, do you know if Oliver Service could supply the parts of the divider for a DIY installation? I have had a couple of owners ask me questions about mine. How is the wall portion attached, adhesive? Mine seems to be plenty sturdy and it is holding up fine as a head rest. Thanks for the background story. John Davies Spokane WA

That was an inexpensive factory option in 2017. They dropped it after a short while, maybe nobody was interested? I think it is great. Without it, the first time you knock over a soda bottle you will swear. Fluids can go straight onto the bedding or the person lying there.. John Davies Spokane WA

My wife and I like to recline on the single beds, looking out the back and side windows. We try to select a site that has something worth looking at in that direction. Lakes are good 😬 If you are traveling solo, you can do this. It’s a Zero Gravity type recliner. It will work in either direction, but this way is better for access to the sink, pantry, bathroom and outside door. Welcome to the forums. John Davies Spokane WA

If the tire loses air from a slow leak that ring will get loose, it is the rubber sidewall pressing against the hull that keeps it from moving. (A pretty stupid engineering decision,) When did you last check the pressure? If you add an extension hose you can easily check it without disturbing the wheel or the cover, if you route the end out the bottom of the cover John Davies Spokane WA

I will air down to about 35 psi on the trailer if it is really nasty potholed rutted for a long distance. But folks need to be aware you have to air back up immediately when the speeds get back up to normal. Sometimes it may be hard to find a trailer sized pullout when you get back to a highway…. Keep that in mind too. John Davies Spokane WA

Imelda your Oliver has electric brakes, NOT surge brakes: https://torkliftcentral.com/blogs/2015/08/17/surge-vs-electric-trailer-brakes/ John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks for posting, the charts are educational. Garmin offers the option of cancelling your subscription at any time, and restarting it again without any extra fees. That can save a considerable amount of money in your “off” season. But I have resisted the temptation to do this, simply because so many places I drive have poor or no cell signal. The inReach is always very close by, in my bugout backpack. Just in case I crash or have a medical emergency, or I encounter somebody else who is in distress. Because it isn’t just for back country hikers. Sat comm, don’t leave home without it! John Davies Spokane WA

What would you estimate the leak rate to be? You probably blew apart one of the push to connect Shark Bite connectors. If it is a strong leak it should be simple enough to locate visually and perhaps by sound, sometimes it could be a hissing sound. Small leaks aka “seeps” can be located by putting a folded blue paper shop towel under a suspected pipe, any water leakage will turn it dark blue at that spot. Buy and ALWAYS use a good adjustable pressure regulator, set to 60 psi or less. The system is not designed for 80 psi. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003YJLAIK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title Connect your hose to the regulator, connect the regulator to your filter, connect the filter to a BRASS 90 degree garden hose elbow. Now you can connect the elbow to your tank fill or city water port and drape the hose over the back bumper to take the stress off that fitting and to make it look professional. 😬 John Davies Spokane WA

I haven’t handled a Spyderco, but I did handle a new $160 Benchmade and a $300 Benchmade. Both were noticeably better than my $40 KRKT. Think Mercedes vs Chevy. The $300 had a carbon fiber handle and better steel and felt wonderful. The mechanisms were very slick and positive. But I would have chosen the cheaper one for actual use. Money no object, the CF would make a great choice for a collector…. My suggestion is to go to Sportsman’s Warehouse or Cabelas and handle a few before spending that much money. But I still would never carry any really nice knife when camping… But if Steve sells that one he found, I would be interested. John Davies Spokane WA

The white one isn’t a check valve. It is a spray nozzle. The idea is to blast all around the walls of the tank, to get rid of the gunk that sticks there, not just fill it up. Check valves provide one way flow protection. You do not want black water going back into the fresh water supply. That “normally” would never happen, but if something happened in the fresh supply system, it could possibly syphon back and contaminate it. The RV codes require a functioning check valve here (complete separation of fresh and sewage systems). Just like residential code requires check valves when you connect up an irrigation system to city water. The other check valves in the back of the trailer are installed to prevent your pressurized water from simply going the wrong way. It is all about traffic control, like one way streets. John Davies Spokane WA

Unhooking and driving away is fairly painless, but lots of owners have a really hard time getting the camper and the bed aligned properly when loading it. There are all kinds of home made guide blocks and rails. This looks promising, I have no personal opinion about it, except you must be very careful not to side load the jacks excessively. It’s NOT like loading a small boat onto a roller equipped trailer. https://www.truckcamperadventure.com/new-camper-cradle-makes-truck-camper-loading-easy/ John Davies Spokane

Be aware that any “affordable” truck camper with full amenities still has a screwed together interior and the same low end RV “quality” appliances. I like the Northern Lite units a lot, and they have no slides to fail.But I think I personally would pick the biggest Cirrus camper, for the wonderful silent Alde heating and water heating system, and I quite like the design inside and out. This is a great resource, they do detailed reviews and publish the ACTUAL wet/ loaded weight. You definitely need a 3500 truck with adequate payload, preferably a duallie. https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/truck-campers-buyers-guide/ There are more and more flatbed models coming out, but they require a big climb to enter, but most have a side entrance so they do not get all nasty on dusty dirt roads (like a rear door model). Plus that gives you room in back for bikes or a boat trailer. The flatbed models require a replacement bed, and you can add storage boxes underneath. The campers have a VAST interior storage volume. Many people sensibly order a cab and chassis truck (no bed at all) and then have the flatbed installed. With a slide in camper, storage is a huge problem because you can no longer carry all that “stuff” in the bed. You can remove the rear seats and install a cargo platform to compensate. But you get great mobility, can camp most anywhere, and you no longer have to deal with maintaining the trailer axles and brakes. My choice, money no object: Doesn’t that look familiar? … https://earthcruiser.com/vehicles/terranova/ If I were suddenly single, I would sell the LE2 and get a different camper. Unless Oliver decides to bring out their rumored new model as a FLAT bed truck camper. Woohoo! Sign me up! John Davies Spokane WA

Unless you are not able to reach either the extinguisher or the door. That is one reason for the emergency egress window in back, which is where I put my second fire extinguisher. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4291-how-to-element-fire-extinguisher-install/ BTW, has everyone actually opened and USED the rear window? Are you able to actually climb out and get around the spare tire and or bikes? I removed my fiberglass cover long ago for other reasons, but the rubber tread makes it much less problematic in scrambling over it and to the side. Those of you who are mobility impaired and can’t climb out that way should definitely install a second extinguisher in back. John Davies Spokane WA

You could compare it to several others and sort of average the values, see if yours is close. Take it to a lab that offers calibration services. A professional tester is tens of thousands of dollars. When I was an A&P tech we built a primitive one that worked fine, a steel framework with a shaft in the center (with a 1/2” square drive on one end) on roller bearings, and a long arm on back horizontal to the floor. We could hang weights on the arm at different locations, we used barbell and dumbbell weights because they stack, are cheap and have the numbers easily visible. For example, for 100 ft pounds you might stack one 50 pound weight 2 feet out from the centerline. If your tool reads 95, you make a chart with the “error correction” showing that it reads 5 low at that value, and just dial it to that. Normally you would get five or six different values for one wrench, and have all that on your chart. It is simple physics. As I said before, few people ever get them calibrated. Or you could buy one of these: https://www.protorquetools.com/torque-calibration-systems/cdi-calibration-systems/ John Davies Spokane WA

IWBIWISI I will believe it when I see it. John Davies Spokane WA

There is no need to spend $300 (!!!) on a Lithionics charger, any name brand lithium capable one will do, I personally would steer well clear of any $50 no-name Chinese clone. I would pick this Guide: …. Blue Smart Charger John Davies Spokane WA