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Everything posted by rich.dev
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Isotherm Refrigerator - What are we doing wrong?
rich.dev replied to DunnYet's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
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Isotherm Refrigerator - What are we doing wrong?
rich.dev replied to DunnYet's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
I believe there might be a ventilation flaw with the 2023+ Olivers with Isotherm fridge, at least mine. There is no vent at the bottom so cold air can enter at the bottom, pass behind the fridge and warm air can leave at the top. Per the installation instructions, see “ventilation” in last pic. I have emailed Oliver, will post the response. Vent at top of my fridge No vent at bottom of my fridge Installation instructions -
Isotherm Refrigerator - What are we doing wrong?
rich.dev replied to DunnYet's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
This is my next step, adding 3M Thinsulate insulation to the inside of the bottom outside hull behind the refrigerator as well the microwave. I have already removed the microwave but haven’t figured out yet how to remove the Isotherm refrigerator. This is what is looks like behind the microwave and Isotherm. -
Check with Oliver, they had it on sale a few weeks ago.
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Nice, which one did you get Steve? I ordered the KEL-FG-ER-B4 (Part# 42344) with: 1 x 4-hole grommet KT 4/ø5mm grey/part # 39908 1 x 2-hole grommet KT 2/ø5mm grey/part # 41200 1 x 1-hole grommet KT ø2-3mm grey/part # 39934 1 x 1-hole grommet KT ø1-2mm grey/part # 39941 (just in case the 39934 hole is too big for the GPS wire) and 1 x Blank grommet Part # 41251
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Nope that doesn't make sense, as you can see in my signature we also have a 2023 LE2 and my 12V fridge is on and my batteries are almost always 100% from the solar. I do let the batteirs run down to approx. 50% every now and again just because its good for the batteries. Is the red solar panel on/off switch that's inside the cubby above the street side bed on? Is your inverter on, you should leave it off at the switch on the inverter that's below the street side bed, use the Xantrex remote in your picture to switch it on/off when AC/120V is required (TV, Microwave and other 120V outlets), but in this case it should be off at the remote. I assume your solar panels are working properly, have charged your batteries in the past? Asking because our solar charge controller was wired reverse polarity when we picked up our trailer in 2023.
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Please help me with 2021 rooftop solar specifications
rich.dev replied to GlacierGirl's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
If I understand correctly, you need help with connecting your 2 x 100W suitcases (one with onboard charge controller) together and then to the external Zamp port. Not sure why Renogy is asking you for your rooftop solar specs. Your 2 x suitcases with one onboard charge controller connected to the externl Zamp port is a solar system on its own. The only relation your suitcase system will have with your rooftop system is they will both charge your batteries WHEN you have your suitcase deployed and connected to the external Zamp port. Renogy should be able to calculate how (series or parallel) and IF the 100W suitcase charge controller can actually handle the 2nd 100W suitcase without charge controller. Also import to know is the limit of your external Zamp port, I believe its 20A. For us to be able to give you some indication if connecting both 100W panels (series or parallel) will work or not, we need more info. Take a picture of the specs on the back of the 2 x 100w Renogy solar panels, as well the specs of the one solar charge controller so we have a better idea of what you have. Then there’s wire size/length between the suitcase/onboard charge controller and batteries, to reduce voltage loss you want the charge controller as close as possible to the batteries. But again, Renogy should be able to help you with this -
Please help me with 2021 rooftop solar specifications
rich.dev replied to GlacierGirl's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Barb, I believe you have the Zamp 340W rooftop solar panels, but if you have't already, email Oliver support with your Hull# and I'm pretty sure they will be able to give you the information. -
Thanks Jd, I like the idea of mounting the router in the closet where it will not take up usable space, but you also now have me really thinking/considdering doing the TV install, only problem is the Peplink Mobilty 42G does not have the magnet mounting option, so I would have to mount it on the fibreglass cap! I will have delivery of the Max BR1 Pro 5G and antenna in 3-4 wks, so I have some time to mull it over. How is the reception inside your trailer with the router inside the TV? Edit: Bummer, just realised the TV install will not work, we have Blink cameras on the Oliver that we want to be able to monitor when away from it!
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I think there’s more than enough room for the 7 wires to make the radius, check this video clip.
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Have you looked at the Icotek KEL-FG-A10 V2 cable entry system?
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LOL yes I saw your post, will be a much easier install but we are going full time end of October that's why I want it in the trailer.
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The Pepwave Mobility 42G comes with 6' wires, I was thinking of mounting the router inside the front cubby just behind the main switch panel. But I also like your idea of drilling straight down into the closet, jut not sure where I can hookup to 12V DC in the closet.
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@Wildbrew very nice installation and great info! @Steve Morris Steve have you mounted your antenna yet? I'm in the same boat now, will be installing the Max BR1 Pro 5G and Pepwave's Mobility 42g 7 in 1 antenna soon. The peplink 42g comes with a wall mount style L bracket. I have a had a few sleepless nights trying to figure out 1) how/where to mount the antenna and 2) is there enough space between the inner and outter hull to fish the 7 wires through. According to Oliver the gap is only 3/4 to 1". I plan (not final) to mount the L bracket with antenna on the inside of the front awning mount, and use an Icotek KEL-FG-A10 V2 cable entry system gland (where the current awning entry gland is) to fish the awning and antenna wires through. My thought process for mounting the antenna and router towards the front of the Oliver is better cell reception while driving. Yes I know I have to clean the Ollie!😜
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Thanks John, so no issues blowing air through the hose inlets with check valves?
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2023 and newer Nightstand Top: How is it attached?
rich.dev replied to Steve Morris's topic in Ollie Modifications
You sure it's the night stand top that's held down with valcro and not the top in front of the pantry? We also have a 2023 and the nightstand top is not removable with a cubby like pre 2023 models. Ok, I see your hull # is 1030 so maybe you lucked out before they changed it to a non removable nightstand top. -
Good to know, I’m in the process of switching out the John Guest push fittings with shark bite fittings and was wondering how to drain all the water from the lines. I’ve always had a low drain point on previous trailers.
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Inexpensive Helpful Modifications
rich.dev replied to Wandering Sagebrush's topic in Ollie Modifications
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Inexpensive Helpful Modifications
rich.dev replied to Wandering Sagebrush's topic in Ollie Modifications
I saw this mod a couple month or so ago somewhere on this forum, or maybe an Oliver Facebook post. It is to avoid critters chewing up the propane hoses. Can’t remember who posted it, but we’re planning to do a lot of boondocking so I copied it. -
I like, does it black out outside light completely?
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Solar Panel Knob FELL OFF- that Secure's Panel
rich.dev replied to BoondockingAirstream's topic in Ollie Modifications
.....and here's the post from John Davies -
I assume you have the iNet remote, if yes try to reset it, here’s a link on how to
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Mike, do you have a link or part number for those magnetic discs and magnetic rubberized swivel feet?