jd1923
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Posts posted by jd1923
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Thanks @SeaDawg and @Rivernerd but as of today this job is finally done!
Ha, I ended up with a 65 PSI pump and if one day the Fresh Tank drain leaks, I will need to cut the PEZ back further, add a coupler, but so far so good.
RV pumps are spec'd anywhere from 45 to 65 PSI. I even noticed one model at 70 PSI. PEX is rated at 100 PSI. Not sure about any "plastic push-to-connect fittings." At least not on this old hull from 2016. They used only the copper looking crimp rings (see pic).
I've had the Oliver plumbing pressurized at 65 PSI, for two full days now, no leaks and I was inside for hours, and the water pump did not cycle once, without turning a faucet on, so no leaks.
Yes, the screens, faucet flow restrictors, etc. will constrain the flow (actual GPM). However, I am not impressed with the PEX fittings and valves used by OTT on our Oliver. The valves are 1/4" ID and the PEX plastic elbows have barely a 5/16" snug opening (see the drill bits in the picture). I find drill bits easier than using a caliper for ID measurements.
This is NOT a 1/2" plumbing system! Flow rate at the kitchen sink, faucet restrictor removed was 1.25 GPM (filled a gallon bottle in 48 sec) with the OEM 3 GPM pump (Shurflo made in Mexico), and Now I have 1.67 GPM (36 seconds) with a 3.4 GPM variable-speed pump. More on the installation in a post coming soon!
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Replacing the Fresh Tank drain was not a fun task, being very difficult to reach down at the bottom to work PEX! Also, my first time with PEX.
I wanted to just cut out the drain valve, but after doing so there was not enough length to make a PEX connection, so I had to go upstream and cutoff the elbow. This is my valve assembly that just barely fit and then a picture of it installed.
Hoping the SharkBite fitting connected fully (if not, our Fresh Tank could just empty while traveling). I should have marked the PEX tubing with a Sharpie, so that I could see how much is recessed (this thought came too late). To be sure, I lubricated the tubing exterior and hit the valve assembly with a short hammer! I can't pull them apart, so the SharkBite must have engaged. No leaks!
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Well, this project has not gone as smoothly as I thought at first. The Seaflo water pump had a bad shut-off sensor, would not stop running after being bled. I bypassed my dual accumulator setup (pic above) thinking they might be keeping the pump from achieving cut-off pressure, but same thing.
Found out on iRV2 Forum that this is perhaps common to the brand. They make their colors look made in USA, but CHINA is in fine print in the corner of the box. Many on that forum like the Remco, Made-in-USA brand, more on this later.
Turns out my fresh tank drain was pushed up so that the plumbing was as high as the top of the tank. OTT does not strap this down. The weight of my new motorized ball-valve should keep it down. I did blow compressed air too. Honestly, our fresh tank only drains well when the nose of the trailer is steeply uphill.
There are many reasons for slow water pressure at the faucets. Check out what the incoming water pump filter/screen looked like on the original pump! Should be cleaned annually.
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On 12/30/2023 at 3:13 PM, Geronimo John said:
Not having access to my Ollie, what is the length and width of the above OTT Solar Package panels? Thanks GJ
GJ, I can measure mine tomorrow afternoon. Will update asap.
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20 minutes ago, mossemi said:
... I will add that my original Xantrex 2000w inverter acted in as similar fashion when it failed... Mossey
@mossemi, you gave me a good idea! The EMS only monitors the incoming 30A 120V shore power. The Inverter (any model) pulls from the batteries, inverting 12VDC into 120V AC at 60 Hz, and in doing so is truly independent of the EMS.
@mccc99 do you have an Inverter 1800W or greater? Then disconnect shore power. Does your microwave run off the Inverter with or without the same error? Mine pulls over 125A (1500W) and runs fine on the Xantrex 2000W Inverter. Our last RV, the numbers were the same. This would be a good troubleshooting step. Let us know what you find!
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One addition, I do not know what the number '7' means in your post. Mine shows 1) Error Code 2) Volts, 3) Hz and 4) Amps, if I remember the order, displaying each state for 2 seconds. However, mine is newly installed and it's never shown an error code.
If the '7' is for previous error code (reading my manual now, but it is not exacting, has no display list), E7 means "Line Frequency High (above 69 Hz)." I would find it hard to believe the pedestal would be 70+ Hz and then back to normal 60 Hz when the data was read, but 70+ Hz could certainly freakout a microwave!
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On 12/31/2023 at 7:24 PM, mccc99 said:
... The codes showing up on my EMS are as follows: E0, 8A, 60H, I25 and 7. It just flashes from one to the other.
Flashing from one to the other is the standard interface and I read these numbers as being fine. Others said that already, but if the numbers are fine, it shows the campground pedestal is also FINE. You are getting 125V at 60 HZ and at the time of your reading, your Oliver was pulling 8 amps. Nothing wrong here! E0 means NO Error Code. You do not have an "EMS ISSUE" nor do you have a Shore Power issue! You have an internal issue with the microwave or its electrical circuit.
Meaning issue is in your latter statement, "When I try to use my microwave it cuts off after a few seconds." When this occurs, does the AC breaker for the microwave trip? (Although our old hull does not have a separate AC breaker for the microwave. What!?) Does any AC breaker trip? If so, the microwave is pulling more amperage than the circuit design. Does the microwave "cut off" without tripping the breaker? Then your issue is within the microwave internal circuits (which means replace the microwave).
Your PD EMS-HW30C is working as designed and the numbers reported by the display show a satisfactory shore power connection.
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The Smart Plug looks to be perhaps a quicker connection? Water tight? What is the criteria? Is the OEM outlet/plug inferior? I like the screw ring on the OEM plug, it's in there, a SOLID connection. I'm with some others here, not my time and money. Sheesh, I've made a dozen upgrades in just 6 months, didn't think of this one. With solar we rarely connect, and the cord mostly sits in the Oliver trunk!
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This is why @John E Davies in another thread replaced his single monitor with two special purpose monitors. Turns out this may be a bit overboard, a concern for those who are risk adverse! Not me, more of the risk-taking sort, being extremely lucky to have survived the 70s! 🤪
According to this org, Carbon Monoxide Facts - Healthy Building Science, "CO is slightly lighter than air. However, studies have shown no significant difference in measurements based on what height CO detectors are mounted."
Thank you @Patriot for bringing this to our attention. Previous owner installed this same unit on mine. Hey, if this thing rings loud in the middle of the night, I don't need a switch. Just open the rear seat of the dinette and pull either wire away from the 3M Scotchlok used by OTT to connect it or use a wire cutter!
To install a new one, yes pull the fuse, or if you're careful you can cut the wires, one at a time and wire it hot. That would be me, a low amp 12VDC circuit, just a minor jolt if you ground yourself! Just don't splice the hot (red) until you are ready to crimp it into a new butt connector.
I would not have known these sensors have date codes, likely for legal vs. technical reasons, though I may be wrong on this one (does the sensor age or wear out in some way?). Looks like mine is good for another 2 1/2 years. BTW, the build date is not important, just as long as you are within the expiration date.
Hey, who installed the USB receptacle? OTT did. It sure looks crooked (the pet peeve of the perennial installer)! I cut the flap off the USB ports since the cover just gets in the way (we don't use cigarette lighter outlets).
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I installed the Victron SmartShunt: Amazon.com: Victron Energy SmartShunt IP65 500 amp Battery Monitor (Bluetooth) : Automotive
I went with the IP65 model and @Ronbrink installed the other version (see his pic above), same $130 price on Amazon for either. Not that waterproof is a true requirement, but not a bad feature for the battery bay, and I like that it came with the wiring at the same price. Love having this, not having to look down at knee height for our Blue Sky display (as it was installed in our older hull).
Those of you with the Victron SmartShunt, what kind of Bluetooth range are you getting? Mine is terrible!
I recently installed two Bluetooth devices, this shunt and the LevelMatePRO. The shunt is installed on top of the outer battery. The LevelMatePRO is mounted to the PD5100 ATS under the rear dinette seat, so they are about 3 feet from each other. I have to be within 20' of the Oliver for the VictronConnect App to find the SmartShunt. Unsatisfied to know I cannot connect from our living room just 60' away, to monitor over the winter w/o going outside.
The Bluetooth on the LevelMatePRO is SOOOO much stronger. From the living room, yes and it can even connect from inside of my garage over 120 feet away. In either case, our RV parking is behind a 10x20' Tuff Shed blocking line-of-sight.
Does the Victron SmartShunt merely have a weak transmitter? Read some Victron forum comments and there is a trend re weak Bluetooth. Maybe the IP65 version weaker? Anybody with the Victron BMV-712 Smart Battery Monitor, is it stronger? Looks like the same shunt, but I do not see negative Victron Forum comments re the BMV-712. Let us know your feedback. Thanks
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White van, white Oliver, looks like a nicely matched set! 😊
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5 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:
Hull 135 still doesn’t have an on board EMS. The PD power pole unit has worked well. This thread has me thinking though….. Mike
Once I got to it, the job was only about 2 hours total. If yours has the front power receptacle for a generator, then you should have the PD5100 Automatic Transfer Switch right where mine is under the rear dinette seat. But either way, you want to cut the main line going into the PD4000 Power Control Center. It's easy to see, on mine it looped down to the floor. You can cut it in half (at the floor) to be safe and trim some excess when you get the EMS box in position.
@ScubaRx yep, it has a bright RED display that constantly changes every few seconds. Why does OTT put these in the attic? It's a long walk around to get up there after plugging into shore power, which is the only time you really need to check it. I would think you could see the flashing red during the night, and more so for those that have the frosted glass cabinet doors. You could easily move the attic display to where I have mine or another location.
An easy way to do this is to merely remove the new display (two screws), purchase a new data cable (looks like a phone cord) and run it from the EMS to a preferred location. Just leave the old cable where it was, or you could pull it down from the attic to the rear trunk area and reuse it (if so, tape the head of the cable so it doesn't get wrecked from pulling it).
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On 12/28/2023 at 1:19 PM, Geronimo John said:
My 2018 drawer bottom thickness is pretty thin. Longer screws would not work. Fatter ones maybe... GJ
Yep, wider deeper threads!
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lastly, besides thanking @Galway Girl for the pic of her EMS, a thank-you to @Ronbrink, @topgun2, @CRM, @Geronimo John and @MAX Burner.
Many of you warned me of the bright display! Yep, it's not of master-bedroom quality. So I was thinking, when do we first need to view this display. The answer of course is, when we first hook-up!
So, I mounted mine right there, not inside the cabin at all. Many of you may have too much stuff in the Oliver trunk for this to be feasible, but I only place a few light objects back there (love having a full 8 FT truck bed, heavy stuff does not belong at the rear).
I keep our shore power cord back there, the freshwater hose and a few other items needed upon hookup. So why not, when you have the hatch open anyway, put the EMS display there as well?
I mounted the display with VHB tape to a L-bracket. Two screws to mount it to the flooring, using one existing screw. The opening for the data cable was already there, a little corner cutout, and it is so simple to run the wire under the pantry and streetside bed area.
The display could be mounted high and out of the way of storage, but then not easily in view. For hook-up, I remove a parts bag, the power cord and hose, and it's simply in straight-line view. The attic, or anywhere else inside means you have to climb in, check status, and climb back out to finish.
After installing, the screen read "No Power." I realized I had pushed the main switch off while I was working. Next thought was to protect the on/off switch while traveling. I mounted a simple L-bracket to keep stuff from hitting it while traveling. The 'pretty' install could include a screened type of enclosure for the display, but I prefer finishing the job today with spare parts when possible.
Got done at sunset tonight. Time for a drink and dinner soon. I'm happy to be done with this upgrade, one item off the list, and it works well!☺️
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I purchased the PD EMS-HW30C five weeks ago (time of last post). I have always respected the quality of Progressive Dynamics products, so another vendor was not in my consideration. My last RV had everything PD! And I installed a PD Inverter and loved it, as it performed flawlessly.
Finally finished today (so many items on the to-do list). I could not install it where @Galway Girl showed OTT installed hers (my Xantrex Inverter is mounted in that spot). Not a lot of room under there, but you can see where I installed it, just to the right of the PD5100. It really did not need physical mounting, a few layers of carpet tape were enough, as the main power cables and the cable you see above it (second 'shore power' input for a front generator) holds it nicely. I'll keep my eye on it to see if later I need a physical bracket.
There was extra length on the main 120V cable from the PD5100 to the PD4000 Power Control Center. So much that I even salvaged almost a foot of this cable for when I need some again. First pic shows the wiring, as simple as it can be!
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4 hours ago, Wandering Sagebrush said:
If that battery was improperly wired, I’m pretty certain there would have been some interesting arc welding.
Something made 3 good batteries go bad after a 4th new battery was connected. I want to see the +/- signs on that 4th battery! No other way to be sure.
Back in the day (50s-60s) my dad was a ME, a good design engineer, but he could not wrench a bolt to save his life - literally! For example, one time he asked me, "Do you have a knife." I replied sure and pulled one off my belt for his use. He then used it to remove a large screw and damaged the blade. I'm like, "Dad, are you kidding? Why didn't you ask me for a screwdriver?" My good knife was now junk!
One day during the 80s, he went to start his car and it wouldn't start. He connected it to a charger and went back in the house to wait for a while. When he came back to the garage it smelled like burnt plastic. He had connected the charger in reverse polarity! The car was a 1982 Porsche 911SC. His mistake fried wire harnesses, fuse boxes, and more, lucky he did not burn down the garage, the house, oh dear dad. He traded it in the next week, claiming the trunk was never large enough to fit his golf clubs!
Hey, we all make mistakes and for some reason the frequency seems to be greater with RVs! I've been repairing and restoring vehicles for 45 years and I make mistakes every day doing so. I started a thread a few weeks ago about my system not charging. I had the solar switch in the OFF position! Go figure. 🤣
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20 minutes ago, ChrisMI said:
The lower left battery does have a red cap on the neg terminal which is not an issue. However, the new battery was installed and either the caps were swapped (neg for pos) or the battery has the positive on the right side (they make batteries both ways). The picture does not show the terminal identification but with the weird meter readings it might make sense (trying to wire the old batteries in parallel with the new one in series - however, connecting in a loop would destroy all the batteries).
I still think it looks wrong too. Yes, the lower left battery has the red cap wrong, but on that battery you can see the +/- signs. The new battery is top left and there are no +/- signs showing in the picture. If where the red cap is, somewhere below you find a + sign, then it was wired in reverse polarity. Like Chris wrote, the reason it would kill all batteries.
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Beautiful pics @Patriot! and just the original basket works for you! Our old hull will likely never see a garage or a cover anytime soon. Ours came with a nice cover, but I've been too busy working on it to cover it.
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52 minutes ago, ChrisMI said:
Cort, I hate to say it but to me it looks like you reversed the polarity with the new battery you installed. I would strongly suggest having an RV shop install the new batteries. They might need to make up a new jumper cable or two depending on how the new batteries fit.
Yep, Chris is right on the reversed polarity. The new battery has the posts in the opposite direction, so when you installed it, in the same direction (battery posts towards the center of the four) the polarity was reversed without you thinking about it. Lucky this did not explode! Likely because the other 3 were very weak.
I would want to work your upgrade now. Forget the "RV shop." Batteries plus has very good AGM batteries and they will install them for you. In Mesa and the Phoenix valley, there are several solar shops if it is time for you to go LiFePO4!
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8 hours ago, Patriot said:
I saw this on the Oliver FB page. It’s a nice looking storage box and appears well made. Pricey.
Pricey? -- NO, just totally ridiculous, unless you're "made of money!" It's like I'm going to spend $1250 to protect my $400 generator. Just mount it to the basket.
I love my open carrier that OTT mounted, throw my tools in there and other stuff when parking. When traveling, our fire ring sits there. Not wanting one myself, but I'd certainly save the $1000 for other upgrades and buy the simple and viable product @Mike and Carol suggested.
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@Cort I am so-o-o sorry to hear of your pain! 😟 The first time I broke down in a car was 1977, trying to get home for Christmas, VA to Chicago. The car broke down, had to park it in WV and rent a car! This was the last time I knew nothing about automobiles!
Just searched Camping World, filtered for Mesa AZ and I see the battery you purchased (your sales rep sold you junk). Next time anybody, go to Batteries Plus first, when on the road. I buy most of my automotive batteries there, many made in PA USA (though no experience w/ house batteries from this company). Camping world sold you a China made low end battery. Just return it with your paid receipt. Walmart would be better than Camping World, for sure.
You now certainly need 4 batteries. Batteries Plus may be able to help you, but don't go back to Camping World except for the return.
Wish you were 2 hours NW of Mesa. You could park in my RV spot. I'd plug you in to my 30A circuit. The invitation is open, just PM. Drive up and we will get you fixed. You could stay awhile in our amazing AZ high country. I'm off for the holidays and into late January. Isn't this what the Oliver Club is about!?!
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2 hours ago, Wandering Sagebrush said:
...I’d lean hard on Camping World to make things right...
You would really have to determine cause. @Cort how did you know you had one bad cell, not dead battery, but one dead cell? How did you know the others were good at the time? How did you get a 240V reading? My shop air compressor runs on 240V! Another member thought it might have been 24V, could it have been 2.4V? That would be a near dead battery.
What caused them all to go bad? It wasn't adding a new AGM, if wired correctly. Immediately I would remove all 4 batteries, test each voltage independently and get the new AGM on a charger. The others may have been toast when the 4th went bad. Try charging them all. Recently I left an accessory on in a car and 2-3 days later went to start the car and got nothing. The voltmeter showed the battery had about 2V in it! Because the battery was only 1 year old, with care I got it back up to full charge. Car/truck starter batteries should be regularly at 12.6V, if less then it's getting older. Deep Cycle Batteries should sit at 13.1V with a full charge.
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2 hours ago, Cort said:
Things have taken a turn for the worse...
The power came on but this morning all 4 batteries are dead - and all now read the exact same voltage (241.0 V.How are they dead, but reading 24V?
The only way to read 24V is two 12V batteries wired in series. If this occurred, I imagine it would cause more damage than just the battery bank. Something went wrong and it's not from adding one AGM, which is just a high-performing lead-acid battery.
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1800W / 120V = 15A this cooker can just fit a 15A outlet/breaker. Unless you want your cooker at the pedastal, get a 12GA appliance grade extension cord.
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Solar awning?
in Ollie Modifications
Posted
Hey @Geronimo John, I measured today as promised. The double panel on our hull measures 58 1/4" long (front to back) and 52 7/16" wide (width of 2 panels).
Our roof layout looks quite different vs. your picture. I know you have an OE2, but your picture looks like maybe it's an OE1. I have the Winegard Sat up front, then about a foot of length, then the panels and 2-3" to the MaxxFAN. The pic above goes from bathroom vent to MaxxFAN all the length of the panel.
I noticed a serial # Z2015071020403 on mine today, so thinking it's a Zamp panel. The measurements of the panels are within an 1/8" of these, two 170W panels, 340W total: Amazon.com: Zamp Solar Legacy Series 170-Watt Roof Mount Solar Panel Expansion Kit. Additional Solar Power for Off-Grid RV Battery Charging - KIT1009 : Patio, Lawn & Garden