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I second the TST tpms, but any tpms is better than nothing!

Im looking to add TPMS to Ollie. What brands are reccommened?

Our previous SOB TT had a TPMS with sensors that required shipping back to the factory for battery replacement (2003 vintage). Not a cheap date!. After going through that drill a couple times, we opted for a new style TPMS that comes with its own battery replacement tool kit, spare O-rings, and valve stem-mounted dust caps. Its a cool set-up, albeit a bit of a small read-out screen, but its solar powered - so far, so good.

I thought that I'd post this in case anyone else runs into the situation that I did whereby the TPM sensor battery compartment was unable to be removed with the supplied stamped sheet metal wrench. In my case the battery compartment was so stuck on that the supplied wrench began rounding off the plastic hex nut profile of the sensor, had I gone any further the sensor would have been ruined. I ended up using a 1/2 inch six-sided socket that provided much more surface area contact than the wrench and the socket did not mar the surface of the plastic nut; even doing that I was unable to grasp the barrel end of the sensor with enough force using my hand to unscrew the barrel from the sensor until I squeezed the barrel between the padded hand grips of my channel-lock pliers ( don't use the jaw end or you'll risk crushing the barrel ). Curiously ProSmart used to ship a tool that more accurately fit the profile of the sensor but have included only the stamped sheet metal wrench in the current kits which provides significantly less surface area contact leading to the possibility of destroying the plastic nut profile. Also, when replacing tires I'd recommend changing the tire stems to metal versions rather than rubber to prevent premature failure of the stem as a result of the added weight of the TPM sensors.

Timely topic, just went through this on both my TV (F150) and the Elite II. Had Les Schwab install the Vredestein LT Pinza AT's on both units but here's the odd part. They insisted on keeping the PSI on truck the same as the door sticker which was 35 front and rear but a week later when they installed the same tire on our Oliver they ran them at 80 PSI. WTF, go figure. I am currently running the truck at 45 PSI and Oliver also at 45 PSI. There just isn't enough load within the Oliver to run them at a higher PSI IMO. Also worth pointing out, after getting both sets of tires installed I also ordered a TPMS. Initially installed them on the truck, took a 60 + mile drive on the interstate and while it was a mild day 70's for temps at no time did the PSI increase more than 5 points. Consistently the tires on the side that faced the sun ran 1-2 PSI higher than the shady side. Granted I was not carrying a load and it was not hot temps but thought it to be a fairly good indicator of adequate PSI for the truck. For those who would like to delve into this more can't recommend the following link enough: https://tirepressure.com Lots of excellent information, calculators etc on this website regarding tire pressure for all vehicles and types of tires.

Also, a TPMS will let you know right away what your pressures are!

@routlaw: We found this unit on Amazon for what we consider a fair price point, much less than what we invested in the first TPMS go around: We've got roughly 500 miles of usage so far without issue. The readout is smaller than my old eyes would like, but it's solar powered and doesn't need 12vDC unless it's not been used for several weeks. It charges through a USB cable in about 25-30 minutes time. But as mentioned above, sensor batteries are a piece of cake to replace. Just my $0.02 worth... Stay safe, brother...

Good info regarding the type of TPMS and batteries @MAX Burner well noted. What are brands worthy of consideration then?

@routlaw: Good call, Routlaw IMHO. We invested in a TPMS many years ago which required the pressure/temp sensor batteries to be installed by the factory. That was an earlier system and after 4-5 years, they all needed replacement. Not a cheap date, for sure. Shipping and factory labor was north of $80 at that time. So, after that second set of batts terminated, we didn't want that date again - we found a system that allows the user to replace the sensor batts. This maybe the new standard today - but we just recommend checking about the batt replacement drill before you invest. Either way, a TPMS will give you both a level of confidence and piece of mind especially touring around the Great Southwest in the hot season. Cheers, brother!

Use that TPMS on your trip to the Rally. Keep a very close eye on the tire temps and pressure. If you have anything approaching or over a 10 psi increase in tire pressure it could mean that your tires are underinflated. Remember - it is high tire temp that kills most tires and generally degrades a tire from the inside to the outside. Obviously, you must also keep in mind other conditions such as the road surface (a concrete surface will generally be cooler than a black top surface), the "crown" of the road (the tires on the lower side of the crown will generally run a bit warmer than the tires on the high side), the sun ( the tires on the side of the camper that are in the sun will run hotter than those in the shade), etc. Also keep in mind that the tire temps you should be most concerned with are the "cold" tire temps. That is your base line. Tire manufacturers allow for the natural increase in tire pressure in the construction of the tire. Even when a tire that has a maximum pressure rating of 80psi (cold) goes over that pressure during "normal" operation it is (most likely) within design specifications. Bill p.s. Have a safe trip over to the Rally! Can't wait to say hello!

We've added, Main Hatch lock/remote, LGP tank w/remote readout, TPMS, SmartShunt w/BT, and a 100Watt HAM radio - no problems noted, FYI.

I have the electronic door keypad with remote fob, the awning remote control, the MaxAir fan remote, and also a TireTraker TPMS system (installed after delivery) and so far no problems that I’ve noted.

It is my understanding that there are a number of TT electronics that may utilize the "433.92 Mhz" band (a wireless radio band on which compatible household (substitute TRAILER) devices send signals. i.e. RVLOCK Key FOB, and TPMS systems. I am wondering if anyone out there has had problems/issues with anything that you have added/installed "After OTT Delivery"? B~Out

If you haven't already done so, consider putting an IR temp gauge on your list of Ollie items to bring along - so you can check tire and drum temps along the way.... just say'n. A TPMS is another consideration, unless you've already got one.

Trailer's have been wearing out tires for ages. They can run in an amazingly wide range of tire pressures successfully. However running above or below that "Sweet Range" and the tires will make you quite angry. So bottom line we are talking about where in the Sweet Range we should run our OE2's. I submit that all the recommendations above are less than optimal and should not blindly be used. So before you get out your flame throwers, ponder the below first. I believe that within the "Sweet Range": A. Tires run at a lower pressure likely have a better ride for Ollie, but they also require greater power to run down the highway. B. Tires run at lower pressure when damaged get to flat quicker than ones at a higher pressure. This results in less opportunity to get pulled over before you start trashing the highway with dismembered rubber tire components. C. Tires run at higher pressures are more prone to puncture from pot holes and road hazards. Especially so when off road. QUESTION: So GJ, how do you run most efficiently, at a pressure to be the most flat resistant mode, while giving Ollie the best ride, and provide my family the best safety margin should you have a puncture? Answer: You can't have it all at the same time. QUESTION: OK GJ, what tire pressure do you run your Ollie at? Answer: Depends. If I am on the interstate or good roads running at highways speeds I use 50 PSI. When I go off road, I air down to 30 PSI for most conditions. If I am transiting soft ground and need maximum sink resistance, then down to 20 PSI. QUESTION: But GJ that's a PITA isn't it? Answer: Nope. I use a TPMS and an IR temperature reader to keep a watch on bearings (With hub caps removed as JD suggested), have a quality calibrated air gauge, and have a 20V Dewalt compressor. Takes me less than 12 minutes to air up/down four Ollie tires between highway and off road mode. Point is that each of us have different trailer weights that can vary depending on our loads at the time. We also travel different paths that our trailers must endure. SO, is it "OK" to say I air my trailer tires to XX PSI? Sure if it is in the sweet spot. It may be OK, but it sure is not optimal for all purposes as your trailer weight varies, as do your road surfaces and speed. Hence, my recommended Ollie tire pressure is.... It depends. GJ

We were coming back to the Great Southwest after a month on the road to Key West, and running Goodyear Marathon/Chinabombs we experienced our first and only (knock on wood) right rear tire failure. We run TPMS, which worked perfectly, but a catastrophic failure happens in a couple dozen micro-secs. On a smooth secondary road in good WX, didn't hear anything - but we felt a slight tug and pulled over to inspect. What was left of the tire looked like a "ghost" - only belts and chunks of tread rubber, totally see-through. Fortunately, the relatively slow speed (25-30mph) may have helped to save the wheel well and we didn't experience any significant secondary damage. Limped over to a Discount Tire a few miles away and bought 5 Michelin RIBs. Thanks to having a spare axle!

I'll keep my F-150 for sure. Drats I'm a Sequoia fan but their marketing team missed the mark for some of us. For example: Don't want the third row. Don't want just a 1360# payload so ditch the hybrid system and increase the payload! Must have the Center Transfer Case with ability to select 2H, 4H, 4A, and 4L capability. Factory ability to TPMS four of Ollie's tires. Camera system that allows an Ollie rear camera to be added in at a reasonable cost. No dealer markup. At $65K+, surely they can provide a more capable machine for our boondockers. I figure in about 3 or 4 years, Toyota will have gotten the message. GJ

Many of the newer tow vehicles are able to monitor trailer TPMS on the dash with the truck's tires simultaneously. Our F350 was ordered with the trailer TPMS package. Once the Ollie arrives, I will install and program them to the truck for a full view of all tires. With the change to 5200# axles on the 2023 LE2's, they have switched back to 15" ST tires from the factory. I'm okay with it. The key to ST's or any tire for that matter is stay away from the Chinese knock off tire bombs and watch your pressures. Also a lot of RV trailers run very close if not over the load ratings of the supplied tires and axles once loaded for the road. Oliver doesn't have that problem.

TPMS is just as important to me as any other option we have. Don't some of the newer trucks allow you to add sensors to your trailer that are read and displayed by the factory TPMS? My old Tundra does not, so we use a TST system. Worked great to/from Alaska. Fortunately, we never had any issues with the truck or Ollie tires. I know the LT versus ST arguments have been made previously, but the factory Cooper tires have done much better than I expected. Would have preferred the previous years Michelins and I wouldn't hesitate to install high quality LT tires again.

With lt or st tires, always use a tpms system. We run still on st tires. Very happy. As you will.

Goodyear Endurance are highly respected ST trailer tires. We use the TST TPMS system. Had a blowout with our first trailer.

No TPMS, though I probably should use them.. I just check them at each fuel stop. I'm getting to the stage where I want less electronic gadgets and motors in my life. 😄 Shopping them now, but leaning towards the Goodyear Endurance in ST225/75R15 based on reviews.

Great advice! Glad you caught it before you got under way. Do you use a TPMS? Let me know where you find a deal! Mossey

Well - not so much. Builtright charges $20 for that support plate if you order it along with the platform. Matt (president of Builtright) agreed to send me just the platform and I agreed to pay the $20 plus shipping. Therefore, by not ordering the support plate along with the platform I actually paid shipping twice - once for my original order of just the platform and then again for the shipment of the support plate. So, save yourself some money on the shipping costs by ordering both at the same time with the "PRO" version, if you have interest in hanging cell phones, TPMS systems, GPS's, laptops, rearview camera monitors, etc. off your dash. Bill

Great deal! I have the same GPS and I probably didn’t need the bracket but I bought it anyway. It went together seamlessly. I also opted for the 67 Designs Carbon Fiber Amps plate and a short Arm. This allows me to connect the magnetic part of the GPS mount to the amps plate and I get unlimited adjustments for viewing. I am going to mount my TPMS on another short arm and use a mag-mount on it, also from 67 Designs. This company has several examples of Built Right products on their page. Brian