Call all Oliver Plumbers! Low toilet and bathroom sink faucet pressure.

[Foy_Mirna]

We had Roamy serviced in Hohenwald yesterday, more on that GREAT Experience in another post. Right now, I could use some help with water pressure. The problem is very low to no water pressure for the toilet and bathroom sink faucet.  Yet I have OK water pressure at the kitchen sink just not great like it normally is.  Outside Shower pressure is OK but not great also.  And here is a list of what I have checked or done with no solution.

Checked the water pressure at campsite supply - plenty!

Removed my check value - no change.

Removed my water filter and check value - no change

Removed and cleaned "City Water" washer and screen - no change.

Checked all values under curbside bed - they are in correct position for normal water supply

Closed and opened toilet water value - is in open position, no change.

Removed hand shower screen and cleaned - no change.

Removed hand shower from hose - very little water pressure.

Am I missing a value?  Any ideas of what else I could check?

 

Thanks

 

Foy

[Mike and Carol]

After I had the accumulator tank added I was having water pressure problems, too. They moved the water pump to the left to make room for the tank but used the old hose which wasn’t quite long enough causing a kink. I went to Home Depot and got a hose 2” longer and the problem was solved. Here’s a picture of the kink.

 

[STEVEnBETTY]

We had that same problem, I did the same things you have, with the addition of removing the shower head and flushing out the line. I was getting ready to remove the sink cartridge and soaking it in white vinegar when it just returned to normal. My guess was that it was just a temporary clog. Good luck

Steve

[topgun2]

Other than checking lines for "kinks" as per Mike's suggestion the only other thing that I can think to do would be to use an air compressor to try to blow air from the bathroom sink faucet towards the water pump - first remove the water pump filter so that you don't blow any foreign matter back into the water pump. I'd do this in short bursts of air at no more than 50 psi. However, if you are not at home this is a bit difficult to do unless you carry an air compressor with you.

Bill

[ScubaRx]

Was this not the exact problem the Cash’s were having at the rally? He posted about it here, but I don’t recall ever reading a solution.

[John E Davies]

 

It makes me really sad to see such shoddy work from the factory techs. There is no excuse for that. It is a result of the person not caring at all about the quality of his work. But more upsetting, it was not inspected and corrected afterwards.

 

Two fails, bad news. I am not impressed.

 

John Davies

Spokane WS

[Try2Relax]

Sucking air before the pump will cause the same sort of problem. If any of the line connections aren't air tight it can be hard to locate, I found one of the plastic connectors couldn't seal completely.

[Mainiac]

If plenty of pressure at the pedestal, I would shut it off. Then I would turn on the pump and see what that pressure looks like. If the pump works ok, the lines and faucets are ok. If the pump system is ok I would recheck, one by one, all the valves again. I have taken a copy of the valve picture in the manual and keep it in the valve compartment. The next question I would have is what did the Service department do? What might they have done, especially if all was ok before they touched it?

[Foy_Mirna]

Thanks Mike, while an expansion tank in on my list of upgrades, I have checked the lines for kinks and can find none. I would appear that where ever there is a bend in the line there are plastic pieces designed to support the line and keep if from bending to a kink.

[Foy_Mirna]

Thanks Steve, I have removed the shower handled from the line and let the water flow. It still runs at very little volume or pressure. I have have to remove the cartage next.

[Foy_Mirna]

Thanks Bill, I don't have an air compressor as we are camping at this time. (Note to self carry small compressor in truck.) I do have a question about the water pump? Is the small clear bowl the filter? I have not cleaned that yet. As so, should I have the water pump on with city water? I have never done this in the past and had fine water pressure until now.

[Foy_Mirna]

Thanks Mainiac, The only place I have water pressure that is somewhat expectable is the kitchen sink. To put a number to this on a scale from 1 - 10 with 10 being the way it came from the factory it is a 5 at best. The Toilet and Shower are a 1 at best. Regarding what service I had done at Oliver - Wheel bearings, new awning, replace shower fan and fix door latch. No plumbing was touched.

[Overland]

Thanks Bill, I don’t have an air compressor as we are camping at this time. (Note to self carry small compressor in truck.) I do have a question about the water pump? Is the small clear bowl the filter? I have not cleaned that yet. As so, should I have the water pump on with city water? I have never done this in the past and had fine water pressure until now.

 

Yes, that's the filter. A good tip when emptying it is to first shut the valve leading to the fresh tank before unscrewing the clear bowl. This will prevent the water left in the line from sucking anything that was caught in the bowl back into the tank as you release the seal. Have a towel handy as it will always spill a bit.

 

The city water bypasses the pump and fresh tank, so there's no reason to turn it on when connected. If you haven't already, I would disconnect the city water, add some water to your fresh tank, and then test the pressure with the pump on. That will help narrow down where the blockage may be. And if it does work, then you at least have the option of filling your tanks and working from the pump.

 

You can actually use the onboard pump to flush out the city water line, same as you would compressed air. You just have to remove or reverse the check valve at the city water inlet and then turn the pump on.

 

Since I always forget to check the obvious things, have you checked for kinks or a blockage in the hose?

 

Also, how is the hot water pressure relative to the cold? If the hot is fine and the cold not, then likely there's blockage at the second tee. If it's the same, then the blockage would have to be at the first tee or in the line between there and the city water inlet.

[Foy_Mirna]

Since I always forget to check the obvious things, have you checked for kinks or a blockage in the hose?

 

Yes I have checked for kinks in all the lines. Great idea to fill the fresh water tank and trouble shoot from there! Thank you!

[Foy_Mirna]

Update: Had time today to work on the plumbing and got to the problem.  First, as big thanks for all of you who helped me trouble shoot!  I started from the toilet and work back to the city water hook up.  The shut off value for the toilet was clean with plenty of pressure, but the hose connection to the toilet was full of what I can only call plastic chips.  A lot of them.  (SEE IMAGE) I opened the toilet shut off value and used the hose to wash all the derby out on the connection.  That fixed the toilet.

 

Next the bathroom sink shower, I started to remove the four screws that hold the towel rack to the cabinet but stopped when I noticed it was clacked in place.  Being a day from home I will do this when I get back to the shop.  I look forward to seeing the cartage I have heard so much about.  Next the kitchen sink, same thing - plastic chips.  Cleaned and flowing better now.  Last was the water filter on the water pump.  Shut the value so no back flow and took off the filter trap.  Full of hardened glue strings and bits of black plastic.  (SEE IMAGE)  How or why this got into my system is an mystery to me.  I have had the trailer for a year and always used a water filter on the city water or water tank fill line.

[Foy_Mirna]

Next update:  First I would like to thank roguebooks for their post on their leaking faucet.  Their post helped me understand how to check the Ceramic Disc Cartridge for debris.  Unfortunately this has not solved the problem.

 

I have removed the hand-held sprayer head from the hose and check it for debris, it is clear. Turning on the water with the head removed has very little water coming out the hose itself.

 

I have removed the Ceramic Disc Cartridge from the faucet. I have carefully taken the blue retaining ring off the Ceramic Disc Cartridge and found no debris inside it. Turning on the water without the Ceramic Disc Cartridge in place has a small amount of water coming out of the 3 holes where the Ceramic Disc Cartridge sits. Access the the water lines that attach to the faucet are not easy to access as I will have to remove the towel rack.

 

Can anyone think of anything I may have missed to clean out before I take the cabinet apart to check the water line where they connect to the faucet?

[STEVEnBETTY]

Foy, my response at this point would be to remove the lines to all of the faucets, toilet valve etc.., and blow out the lines at the source I.e. Fresh water inlet and water pump.

Steve

[Foy_Mirna]

blow out the lines at the source I.e. Fresh water inlet and water pump.

 

Thanks Steve. I knew this was coming just hoping it was something else. Going to take the towel rack out and flush the lines.

[RussMcKnight]

Russ (and Janie) McKnight - Hull 125

 

We have dutifully gone through all the diagnostics seeking a remedy for our low pressure water without remedy. This is not an issue with the fresh water tank and water pump, only the city water system. We have always used filters and screens and trust our problem is not plastic bits/pieces. If our line restrictions are water soluble vinegar could help but might not be effective from the downstream side.

 

Has anyone tried blowing vinegar through the city water pipes using the water pump?  This would be a process akin to winterizing with anti-freeze opening the bathroom faucet until vinegar reaches the faucet. Shutting the faucet for 15 minutes then flushing with fresh water.

 

Any downside trying this?  If we have plastic chips this will be useless but might work for solvable semi-blockage.

 

Your thoughts?

[Mainiac]

If pump pressure is fine, but not city water, I would start at the valves. Want to screw on a short hose on outlet side of valve and open into bottle. If no pressure kinked line or plugged inlet? Turn each valve to be sure working smoothly. Check manual to get proper handle position. Remember, if handle is a cross the line it is closed. If running with the line, it is open. I took a photocopy of valve positions and keep it in that compartment to refer too

 

.

[Landrover]

Does Oliver install an internal water pressure regulator as part of the system? Or is it aftermarket ?

[Try2Relax]

I agree and that was my first thought, being that it is limited to the city water.

 

They used to and I believe they still do, as discussed in other threads. Mine is located in front of the street side taillight, once the line goes horizontal. I know this because it was the first thing to freeze and be replaced when I got the trailer...

[RussMcKnight]

Success!  I removed and checked the internal check-valve, the back flow preventers, and the water pressure regulator installed by Oliver.  All seemed to be OK, but on general principles, I installed a new water pressure regulator.  Problem solved.  Thanks for all the feedback.

[TexasMarshall]

I totally agree. Shoddy work from the Oliver techs.

[TexasMarshall]

Hey y’all, we got a problem. OLIVER!