Jack points

[Frank C]

2 hours ago, csevel said:

I think the results will vary with the EZ Flex as we DID in fact try it with the Rapid Jack which is 7" tall on an asphalt driveway and it did NOT lift the other tire off the ground at all.  Just saying.

Seems like we now have documented evidence from various owners that this method (ramp method) both does and does not work (Schrodinger’s Ramp? 🙂).

There are a lot of variables that haven’t been detailed as part of the tests done.  Things like trailer weight and trailer CG (center of gravity) depending on options,  tanks empty or full, tongue height when hooked to tow vehicle, weight of tow vehicle, using ramp on forward or rear axle, etc. all might be affecting how much the Dexter EZ Flex suspension articulates (and how much the trailer tongue raises also) when using a ramp, and whether or not the other tire lifts off the ground.

I’ll stick with my Army surplus HUMVEE scissor jack.  I can get both tires on the same side off the ground so I can also rotate the tires front to back when doing my bearing maintenance.  

[Hokieman]

29 minutes ago, FrankC said:

There are a lot of variables that haven’t been detailed as part of the tests done.  Things like trailer weight, tanks empty or full, tongue height when hooked to tow vehicle, etc. all might be affecting how much the Dexter EZ Flex suspension articulates when using a ramp and whether or not the other tire lifts off the ground.  

Agreed Frank, the ramp option might not always work.   In my test case, I don’t know the trailer weight at the time, but it was fully stocked and in dry camping mode.  Water tank and gray tanks both half full.   Trailer was connected to my F250 at normal, level height.   I chocked both of the opposite side wheels.   I think the variation in the results may be affected by the condition of the rubber bushings in the Dexter EZ-Flex.   My 2021 bushings are still relatively new, so perhaps less articulation because the rubber is less compressible.   The pic shows the linkage in the lifted position.  The point of my test was to try out an option for changing a flat tire using equipment I am already carrying.   I also carry a Humvee scissor Jack and an Agile adapter, based on your tests and recommendations (Thank you! ), detailed in related posts.   A third option is to just use the stabilizer levelers (not recommended by Oliver), but I think that may flip the shackles, and I’d rather avoid stressing the frame.    Coincidently, I got a flat rear tire on the TV 2 days ago, on a secondary road.  I was not towing the trailer.   The tire picked up a large lag screw.    Rather than use the sketchy, never used OEM bottle jack on a gravel & sand road shoulder, I used the Humvee scissor jack and the Agile adapter and quickly changed that tire with the spare.   So, in sum, my plan is to continue to carry the Humvee scissor jack w/ adapter, since it is suitable for both trailer & TV in unstable ground conditions. 

[routlaw]

2 hours ago, Mike D. said:

 Now tighten lug nuts completely. Lug nuts should be torqued to 120 ft. lbs. ”

And they are still recommending 120 ft lbs of torque. This really needs to be changed.

[MobileJoy]

8 hours ago, Mike D. said:

If you get the opportunity, perhaps you can discuss with OTT management  if they  will consider editing their owners manual so we can clear up the confusion on a key safety item.

Sorry, I left the area before I saw this. 

[Hokieman]

2 hours ago, MobileJoy said:

Sorry, I left the area before I saw this. 

That’s Ok,  I’ll give it a try and send Jason & Rodney an email.

[geO]

On 4/5/2022 at 11:24 AM, FrankC said:

I just use a good heavy duty scissor jack on some 4”x4” cribbing to lift the trailer (but mine does have the marked jack points on the steel subframe) and then after raising the trailer I put the stabilizer down just as a backup.  Chocks under the tires on the opposite side of course.  Doing my wheel bearing re-packing now. 

I found using Frank's method of lifting the trailer to be the easiest! 

[Hokieman]

2 hours ago, geO said:

I found using Frank's method of lifting the trailer to be the easiest!

I agree geO, Frank’s method is very good.   I haven’t had to do it yet, but if I were removing wheels at home to do maintenance, I’d use the equipment I have, which includes large floor Jack, Jack stands, wheel chocks etc.  all on a level concrete floor.   However, your original post and objective wandered off into roadside repairs, which is what my posts referred to.  How I will change a tire on the side of the road is different than how I will change it in my garage, due to the equipment & conditions. 

[geO]

Got it Mike. I think in an emergency situation I would use the side jack. Speed to me would equal safety in this case and even then my family would be away from the road out of the tow.

[geO]

Of course my warning triangles would also be deployed. 

[Wayfinder]

@csevelthanks for the confirmation.  I was considering getting a rapid jack, but I will also be upgrading to the EZ Flex system too.  That was a close one.  😉 

[Geronimo John]

On 6/3/2022 at 4:19 AM, routlaw said:

On 6/3/2022 at 2:13 AM, Mike D. said:

 Now tighten lug nuts completely. Lug nuts should be torqued to 120 ft. lbs. ”

And they are still recommending 120 ft lbs of torque. This really needs to be changed.

I have sent a note to Jason about this.  I recall it being reduced.  

GJ

[MAX Burner]

3 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

And they are still recommending 120 ft lbs of torque. This really needs to be changed.

I thought I read it was 110 ft-lbs....?

[Hokieman]

7 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

I have sent a note to Jason about this.  I recall it being reduced.  

GJ

The value was reduced to 110 ft-lbs GJ, thanks to your previous communications to Oliver.   See link.

Wheel Torque 2023 

That snip from my older post was taken out of context.  It was a direct quote from the 2021 manual.  I personally have been running 100 ft-lbs since Day 1 with never a loose wheel nut. 

[Geronimo John]

Roger and thanks for the link to my own post.  I searched for it, but .....

My note to Jason was to update the other location where the 120 torque is STILL posted.  

GJ 

[MAX Burner]

12 hours ago, Hokieman said:

I personally have been running 100 ft-lbs since Day 1 with never a loose wheel nut. 

That's reasonable.  I've got a set of Gorilla Lugs waiting for me to swap out - several of the original "sleeved" lugs have started slipping.  I can still get them off, but its unnerving having the outer sleeve rotate about an eighth of a turn while removing them.

[ScubaRx]

4 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

That's reasonable.  I've got a set of Gorilla Lugs waiting for me to swap out - several of the original "sleeved" lugs have started slipping.  I can still get them off, but its unnerving having the outer sleeve rotate about an eighth of a turn while removing them.

I ditched the original sleeved lug nuts and replaced them with solid stainless steel ones. 

[Hokieman]

7 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

My note to Jason was to update the other location where the 120 torque is STILL posted. 

Apologies for drifting from original post, but this  is sorta like the tire pressure issue.   Oliver reduced the tire pressure in new LE2 models from 80 psi to 55 psi but didn’t officially inform the rest of us.   My Service Ticket request for a replacement sticker was politely declined.   Regardless of the 80 psi sticker on my trailer, I’ve been running 50 psi on the Interstate from Day 1, could probably go to 45psi with good results.   I’ve learned a lot on this forum.  Thank you!

Tire Pressure Confusion - LE2

[routlaw]

Interesting all this came up again because just recently I became aware of the torque values for my F150 pickup. Ford states in the manual 150 ft lbs of torque. Given that the size of the Oliver LE2’s have about the same size wheel and tire configuration why wouldn’t 120 ft lbs be more accurate. There is barely any difference in weight either between the two assuming a fully loaded trailer. 

And as for tire pressure I have always ran mine between 45-50 with no issues and still on the original tires. What would be the advantage if any running them at their max rated pressure. Seems like it would be a bumpier harder ride for the contents of the trailer.

[routlaw]

Also why on earth does any vehicle manufacturer use sleeved wheel nuts? I don’t get it.

[Patriot]

3 hours ago, ScubaRx said:

I ditched the original sleeved lug nuts and replaced them with solid stainless steel ones. 

Noted..I will follow suit. Thank you for the reminder.👍🏻

[MAX Burner]

2 hours ago, routlaw said:

Also why on earth does any vehicle manufacturer use sleeved wheel nuts? I don’t get it.

Good question, brother.  I'm thinking cost, cosmetics?  Certainly not safety.  

Gorilla lifetime lug nuts comes with triple nickel plating to prevent rust and corrosion along with being cold forged and heat treated for superior hardness.

Our set of Gorilla Lugs arrived from Summit Racing a few days ago.  They're going on before our trip to Puerto Penasco later this month (probably at 110 ft-lbs).

[topgun2]

11 hours ago, routlaw said:

What would be the advantage if any running them at their max rated pressure.

A harder tire will have less sidewall flex and, therefore, run cooler than a tire that has less air pressure and thus more sidewall flex.  Heat in a tire is one of the main causes of failure.

Additionally, higher tire pressures are required for increased load on the tires.  So, if you want to carry the maximum load that a tire was designed for then you must also inflate that tire to its maximum tire pressure as recommended for its manufacturer.

Bill

[MAX Burner]

100% concur @topgun2!  We'd run the Michelin RIBs at 85psi during winter months on my aluminum SOB and always check tire temps (man, we love the IR temp gauge!) during refueling stops.  We'd run 80psi in the warmer months.

[routlaw]

Perhaps we are getting a bit off track with tire pressure for a jack point thread but after yesterdays comments I've sort been going down the rabbit hole about tire pressure, load limits and related information. Just this past week I changed the tires on my F150 from a Metric tire 275/65/18 with 116 load rating to a set of LT tires of the same size with load rating E. They were purchased and installed from a Les Schwab Tire store locally and oddly enough they used a 35 PSI setting, same as the OEM tire rating. Unfortunately checking the pressure this morning no two tires were anywhere near identical in their pressure but that's another story for another time. 

To my surprise today has been a very useful education which has turned my head around on many issues. Linking a YouTube video below by a young man who seems to know a lot about this and has a very interesting and apparently effective method for setting tire pressure for truck tires all dependent upon the individual tire, truck and other factors but definitely not a standard one pressure fits all vehicles in all circumstance. In addition there is also some useful calculators at https://tirepressure.com/tire-pressure-calculator which determines I should be running my new tires at 50 PSI but this assumes a fully loaded truck to its rated load capacity which is not what we normally are doing unless towing and hauling. 

I hope others can find the two links useful in their decisions for tire inflation not only for their tow vehicle but also their Oliver Travel Trailers. Thanks.

 

[Wayfinder]

In 1 hour I go to the tire shop to get a new tires have marked what I think is the best place for jack points. Based off of your pictures. My 2016 doesn't appear to have extra metal under the frame, but these points match your descriptions. I've also noted potential damage to propane lines on the passenger side.