Pickup storage solutions

[Mac]

We needed a solution for both secure storage and carrying capacity and decided on the Diamondback HD tonneau cover. It’s about as secure as it gets, has front and rear access panels, and carries 1600 lbs (Side x Side, motorcycle, etc).  Extensions and loading ramps were part of the package. The setup is simple, and removes/installs easily. 

[Ray and Susan Huff]

11 hours ago, DCdude said:

Sorry about the rotation. 
 

This system works for me.  It supports 3 different functions so the content of the Decked system can be changed out in just a few minutes.  I’ve had  camper shells and tonneau covers but this is far easier for me to use and organize and most importantly, access! The Rotopax jugs aren’t in this picture because the Yakima mounts have been unavailable for months.
I can remove the rack in just a few minutes and park a 4 wheeler on top. 
I have 2 Hobie Outback kayaks that can fit on top of the rack which was a priority while pulling the Oliver.

Also, we know that in buying the Oliver, we forfeited taking along the occasional grandchild.  IF that becomes an issue, we can buy an overland style tent for the rack without losing storage.

Probably what makes this work for me is that I have terrible organization skills!  

Each drawer holds 200 lbs and everything in them stays dry and secure. 

 

Nice . . . . . if we trade our inflatable kayaks for rigid, we will need some way to carry them.  If there isn't room between the pickup and the trailer jack to accommodate our bike rack we could mount the rails on the top of the drawer.  However, it doesn't look like the drawers are high enough to store a small generator and a portable fuel tank.  Would need to remedy that.

[Ray and Susan Huff]

1 hour ago, Mac said:

We needed a solution for both secure storage and carrying capacity and decided on the Diamondback HD tonneau cover. It’s about as secure as it gets, has front and rear access panels, and carries 1600 lbs (Side x Side, motorcycle, etc).  Extensions and loading ramps were part of the package. The setup is simple, and removes/installs easily. 

We are looking at the DiamondBack, but the 270 model with the tool box type lids at the cab end.  Don't need the extra capacity of the 1600# model you have.  Would only be carrying kayaks or bikes on top.

Black or silver finish? Did you do the install?  And how easy is it to remove one of the doors if you need to haul something tall?

 

[Mac]

The two DB doors (front and rear are hinged at a center panel.  The center panel is attached to the truck bed with clamps. Once the center panel is secure, the door panels hinge to it. The doors are removable by uncoupling the hinges. The initial install took me about two hrs, which included unboxing, lining everything up and installing.  I installed it by myself and It would have gone a lot faster with two people. If you call DB, they are great with solutions to storage and rigging questions, including racks, tie downs, ramps, etc.  We went with the black textured finish, seems tough as nails so far. 

[rideandfly]

Susan,

Here's the Diamondback before installation on our Tundra:

Ready to camp:

Edited September 12, 2020 by rideandfly

[Ray and Susan Huff]

4 hours ago, rideandfly said:

Susan,

Here's the Diamondback before installation on our Tundra:

Ready to camp:

Are you happy with the non-painted finish, vs the black?  We live near the coast, about 20 mi inland.  Not sure if rust is a problem with unfinished.

[Ray and Susan Huff]

5 hours ago, Mac said:

The two DB doors (front and rear are hinged at a center panel.  The center panel is attached to the truck bed with clamps. Once the center panel is secure, the door panels hinge to it. The doors are removable by uncoupling the hinges. The initial install took me about two hrs, which included unboxing, lining everything up and installing.  I installed it by myself and It would have gone a lot faster with two people. If you call DB, they are great with solutions to storage and rigging questions, including racks, tie downs, ramps, etc.  We went with the black textured finish, seems tough as nails so far. 

I was wondering about the durability of the black finish.  You say it is "textured".  Is it like powdercoat?

[Mac]

Susan, the exterior covers are aluminum and the Internals and hardware are either stainless steel or zinc coated steel. I’d doubt that rust would be an issue but just to be sure  I’d call DB to find out more specifics and get info about how they warranty against rust.  Their customer service folks, especially Jason,  know their stuff and shoot straight. The black finish seems extremely durable to me and i’m pretty heavy on it with storing ramps along with the utv, but i’m sure the shining aluminum would work and look great. Again, check with DB for better info. 

[rideandfly]

4 hours ago, Susan Huff said:

Are you happy with the non-painted finish, vs the black?  We live near the coast, about 20 mi inland.  Not sure if rust is a problem with unfinished.

Susan,

Yes, Happy with the aluminum diamond plate material, no corrosion.  Had the option to go with black powder coated finish from Diamondback, but wanted the bed cover to blend with chrome parts on the Tundra and aluminum wheels on Ollie. Thinking about installing aluminum wheels on the Tundra, too.

Edited September 12, 2020 by rideandfly

[SeaDawg]

Mac and rideandfly, when you have the atv or utv on the back, is it possible to open the tailgate and access anything in the pickup bed? Do either of you have slide drawers for " the rest of the stuff."?

What ramps do you carry for the atv/utv? That's a pretty steep incline for loading/unloading.

Sherry 

 

[rideandfly]

3 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

Mac and rideandfly, when you have the atv or utv on the back, is it possible to open the tailgate and access anything in the pickup bed? Do either of you have slide drawers for " the rest of the stuff."?

What ramps do you carry for the atv/utv? That's a pretty steep incline for loading/unloading.

Sherry 

 

Sherry,

Our Diamondback cover is the lowest cost unit they make with 400 pound maximum carrying capacity on the cover. The more expensive models like Mac's has much higher load carrying capacities. With both top cover doors closed, the tailgate opens easily. Don't need slide out drawers with both top doors that open, but need a folding stool to reach over each side of the pickup bed to reach gear. Have not hauled anything on top of our Diamondback cover, yet.

  Have to admit, after seeing Overland's thread about a Tonneau cover with built in solar panels, been "thinking for now" about installing two Renogy 30W removable solar panels on both Diamondback fold up doors to increase solar capacity by 120W in addition to our 100W Renogy suitcase panel.

Edited September 13, 2020 by rideandfly

[Mac]

Susan, the exterior covers are aluminum and the Internals and hardware are either stainless steel or zinc coated steel. I’d doubt that rust would be an issue but just to be sure  I’d call DB to find out more specifics and get info about how they warranty against rust.  Their customer service folks, especially Jason,  know their stuff and shoot straight. The black finish seems extremely durable to me and i’m pretty heavy on it with storing ramps along with the utv, but i’m sure the shining aluminum would work and look great. Again, check with DB for better info. 

[Mac]

The ramps i have from DB are High strength aluminum, with welded cleats (the ramp’s ladder) spaced every 7”.  The ramp is hinged at the center and opens to a length of 12’ 4”.  The ramps have 3” high “side walls” to provide rigidity for the ramp and also serve as a boundary for the tires to track within.  A UTV or ATV will walks right up the ramp and onto the DB cover with no problem, and though the first few experiences felt a little precarious due to the incline of the ramp, after a while it becomes second nature.  (If i had a motorcycle to tie down on the cover, i’d Remove the windshield and winch it up backwards, OR, find a loading dock to back into so the ramp would be closer to level.)

my UTV is 1588 lbs and the weight compresses the DB cover to the point that the tailgate will not open. DB makes an adjustable expansion “post and beam”  that gives lift to the DB cover so the tailgate opens under load.    They also provide “side rail spacers” to lift the cover when under load for those that dont use the post and beam  system.  
 

apologies for sounding like a DB sales rep, but i am a believer in their  products, at least for my application. 

 

 

[Mac]

Forgot to comment, Re slide drawers, with the post and beam setup, the bed is open on either side of the post.  However, Once the weight is off the cover, the post gets removed for full bed access.  With the side rail spacers, the entire bed remains open.  Suggest you talk with DB to see if they have a solution to your questions. Perhaps they can custom engineer what you need.  

[NCeagle]

Here's some cool storage boxes I put in the bed of my truck a few months ago called "Swing Case" that I'm really loving so far (Undercover SwingCase Truck Bed Storage Box | SC101D | Fits 99-07 Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra 1500-3500Drivers Side 1500-3500).  I bought the Chevy brand and they make similar cases for the other major pickup truck brands.  They use the spaces behind the wheel well that are tough to use.  They are easy to remove if you want to use the entire bed for plywood or sheet rock, etc.  They swing out for easy access to the storage which is awesome because I used to have to jump up into the bed to get to my toolbox in the back.  Here's what they look like installed:

I have all my tools in the one on the driver side - and I carry a large assortment so pretty heavy.  On the left hand side, here's some pictures of what I have packed in there:

Holds a surprising amount of stuff:  ratchet wrenches, a collapsible utility shovel, 2 tie down straps, a rain suit, heavy duty booster cables and a tire repair kit.  Even if I have things in the middle of the bed that are in the way, I can easily move them out onto my tailgate to make room to swing the box.  The price is pretty steep, so I started with one and liked it so much I ended up buying the other side. 

[Ray and Susan Huff]

1 hour ago, NCeagle said:

Here's some cool storage boxes I put in the bed of my truck a few months ago called "Swing Case" that I'm really loving so far (Undercover SwingCase Truck Bed Storage Box | SC101D | Fits 99-07 Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra 1500-3500Drivers Side 1500-3500).  I bought the Chevy brand and they make similar cases for the other major pickup truck brands.  They use the spaces behind the wheel well that are tough to use.  They are easy to remove if you want to use the entire bed for plywood or sheet rock, etc.  They swing out for easy access to the storage which is awesome because I used to have to jump up into the bed to get to my toolbox in the back.  Here's what they look like installed:

I have all my tools in the one on the driver side - and I carry a large assortment so pretty heavy.  On the left hand side, here's some pictures of what I have packed in there:

Holds a surprising amount of stuff:  ratchet wrenches, a collapsible utility shovel, 2 tie down straps, a rain suit, heavy duty booster cables and a tire repair kit.  Even if I have things in the middle of the bed that are in the way, I can easily move them out onto my tailgate to make room to swing the box.  The price is pretty steep, so I started with one and liked it so much I ended up buying the other side. 

Thanks for sharing. . . . . looks like a great idea for my husband's birthday 😀

[WhatDa]

We have the Diamondback HD as well -- we did the Crossbin 8 (smaller one) with the two sideboxes.  Ours has the black coating.

 

One sidebox has a my water stuff (zero G hose, regulator, filter) so that other stuff doesn't get them dirty.  The other sidebox has my POL (grease gun, generator oil, etc... that I don't want on the rest of my stuff. The front box has tools, pop up cones, and some of the small parts for stuff.  I still have full length use of the bed, or even room for some of the extended Diesel tanks.  I can remove the whole cover in about 15 minutes, by myself if I have to but with help it's probably 5 minutes.  Popping out the front box is pretty easy. 

[Overland]

The Diamondback covers are really nice. I know a number of contractors who have them and I almost got one myself. I ended up with a Leitner rack instead. I really like how I can attach pretty much anything to it. Here’s my usual camping setup with a Frontrunner rack on top with solar panels, and a custom rack I made out of 80/20 to hold some Hardigg cases.  

[Overland]

I also have these bedside storage racks which are pretty handy - https://www.builtrightind.com/products/builtright-industries-mbrs-fseries-kit

[BlueHighways]

34 minutes ago, Overland said:

I ended up with a Leitner rack instead. 

As shown earlier, I went with the Yakima rack over my Decked system. Leitner is even more versatile and should be easier to get accessories. It’s a better rack!

On edit: To be clear, Yakima is well built. The problem is figuring out which systems are compatible within the brand then getting the parts. So, Leitner at minimum is a better rack system as well as a better rack, too.

Edited September 14, 2020 by DCdude

[Patriot]

On 9/6/2020 at 11:51 PM, Susan Huff said:

How long a wait for the ARE?  Do they colormatch to your paint?

kinda long....
We just ordered a color matched ARE Z topper similar to the attached pic and it’s approx 6-8 weeks on a turn around to take delivery. It is color matched to the paint code of our Iconic Silver 2020 F 250 Tremor.  We prefer toppers as it gives a whole lot more room to carry cargo than a bed cover. We like to carry dry clean bicycles, generator, yeti cooler and general gear etc.

ARE is located in Ohio so depending on where you live it may be a bit longer wait. I have owned (3) previous ARE toppers and have been pleased with their install, fit and finish. Hopefully this one will serve us well. I ordered an upgraded seal which adheres to the bottom of the topper (see pic). The foam seals used on toppers are junk and a waste of time and effort and flatten out quickly resulting in potential leaks or the topper rubbing paint off the bed side rails. Toppers weigh in usually at approx 200# or more depending on bed size, so this will add to your CGVWR. (Not a really concern here)  

The most important thing when ordering a topper is inspect the fit and finish and completely inspect the install. Look closely at the topper paint in the sun, check all seals, window functions, everything. Then check it again, don’t rush. Understand how they connect the topper brake light to the trucks electrical system. How many clamps do you get to secure the topper?
Like anything, If the topper is not installed properly you will have issues such as leaks, and potentially paint rubbing off bed rails which is a serious NO go. There should be plenty of clearance between the bottom lip of the topper and the side of the painted bed rail. If not when the cheap foam seal settles and it will you will likely have paint damage on the bed rail. So inspect  throughly before accepting the topper and final payment. You must have proper clearance to avoid paint rub issues. This clearance naturally depends on the truck and topper fitment. Keep in mind the foam will flatten out, don’t use it.
The topper bed rail seal in the pic below which I ordered is one of the best in the industry and highly recommended by a close friend in another state who owns a competitor to a ARE - a Leer Truck Accessory Center. This seal must be cut on 45 degree angle on the corners for proper install. Attention to detail by the installer is critical through out. I highly recommend talking through the entire install and set expectations from the start before turning your keys over.
Most of all check out your dealer, ask the tough questions before doing business. 
 

The ARE dealer I ordered through will actually send the topper back to ARE if there are any fitment or paint issues...as he should. Once you inspect and accept and give final payment....suffice to say it is yours. Read the ARE disclosure carefully under the warranty section.

The ARE Z model topper we ordered runs anywhere between $2400-3000 depending on how you option it out. Not cheap so it has to be right. Most dealers require $500-700 down to order. The latest gimmick is topper installers are up-selling paint/protection where the topper meets the bed rail “Incase of rubbing”. If the topper is installed properly with the proper seal, you don’t need p/p. If the installer is upselling this paint protection hmmmmm....ask lots of  fitment questions as this should not be required. It’s sorta like putting on a band aid prior to a cut. 
No body wants to spend $3000 and then deal with paint rub or fitment issues.

Just a few thoughts, hope this helps. 

 

 

Edited September 14, 2020 by Patriot

[Ray and Susan Huff]

10 hours ago, Patriot said:

kinda long....
We just ordered a color matched ARE Z topper similar to the attached pic and it’s approx 6-8 weeks on a turn around to take delivery. It is color matched to the paint code of our Iconic Silver 2020 F 250 Tremor.  We prefer toppers as it gives a whole lot more room to carry cargo than a bed cover. We like to carry dry clean bicycles, generator, yeti cooler and general gear etc.

ARE is located in Ohio so depending on where you live it may be a bit longer wait. I have owned (3) previous ARE toppers and have been pleased with their install, fit and finish. Hopefully this one will serve us well. I ordered an upgraded seal which adheres to the bottom of the topper (see pic). The foam seals used on toppers are junk and a waste of time and effort and flatten out quickly resulting in potential leaks or the topper rubbing paint off the bed side rails. Toppers weigh in usually at approx 200# or more depending on bed size, so this will add to your CGVWR. (Not a really concern here)  

The most important thing when ordering a topper is inspect the fit and finish and completely inspect the install. Look closely at the topper paint in the sun, check all seals, window functions, everything. Then check it again, don’t rush. Understand how they connect the topper brake light to the trucks electrical system. How many clamps do you get to secure the topper?
Like anything, If the topper is not installed properly you will have issues such as leaks, and potentially paint rubbing off bed rails which is a serious NO go. There should be plenty of clearance between the bottom lip of the topper and the side of the painted bed rail. If not when the cheap foam seal settles and it will you will likely have paint damage on the bed rail. So inspect  throughly before accepting the topper and final payment. You must have proper clearance to avoid paint rub issues. This clearance naturally depends on the truck and topper fitment. Keep in mind the foam will flatten out, don’t use it.
The topper bed rail seal in the pic below which I ordered is one of the best in the industry and highly recommended by a close friend in another state who owns a competitor to a ARE - a Leer Truck Accessory Center. This seal must be cut on 45 degree angle on the corners for proper install. Attention to detail by the installer is critical through out. I highly recommend talking through the entire install and set expectations from the start before turning your keys over.
Most of all check out your dealer, ask the tough questions before doing business. 
 

The ARE dealer I ordered through will actually send the topper back to ARE if there are any fitment or paint issues...as he should. Once you inspect and accept and give final payment....suffice to say it is yours. Read the ARE disclosure carefully under the warranty section.

The ARE Z model topper we ordered runs anywhere between $2400-3000 depending on how you option it out. Not cheap so it has to be right. Most dealers require $500-700 down to order. The latest gimmick is topper installers are up-selling paint/protection where the topper meets the bed rail “Incase of rubbing”. If the topper is installed properly with the proper seal, you don’t need p/p. If the installer is upselling this paint protection hmmmmm....ask lots of  fitment questions as this should not be required. It’s sorta like putting on a band aid prior to a cut. 
No body wants to spend $3000 and then deal with paint rub or fitment issues.

Just a few thoughts, hope this helps. 

 

 

Thank you for sharing your advice.  We are still torn between a Diamondback bed cover and a topper.  Pros and cons of both.

[Mainiac]

On 9/11/2020 at 5:26 PM, Mcb said:

will be in David Crockett St Pk for Thanksgiving, and I’m tempted to try to jam a turkey ( ok, maybe just a chicken) into it...

Does David Crockett SP have power? Maybe a turkey TV (frozen) dinner?

[mossemi]

3 hours ago, Mainiac said:

Does David Crockett SP have power? Maybe a turkey TV (frozen) dinner?

According to Ultimate Campgrounds they do have power.

Mossey

[SeaDawg]

3 hours ago, Mainiac said:

Does David Crockett SP have power? Maybe a turkey TV (frozen) dinner?

From the David Crockett website: