Window shade fell off

[SeaDawg]

Frankly, I've only seen a few posts about the cord becoming unplugged. 

If you're uncomfortable with it, take your trailer to an rv repair shop, and let them look at it. You can run on propane til you get an appointment.  You are under warranty. 

Or, when you get some sleep, and get your head cleared, see if there us a mobile service for norcold.

I still suspect your problem is a) left the fridge on ac when you disconnected,  or b) your board isn't recognizing 110, on auto,  Which is odd, since your fridge worked fine on 110 at davy Crockett,  but, who knows?

Your fridge works on dc, and propane, so not the immediate emergency.

Get your business appointments done, read your manuals,  and get some help when you are in the right frame of mind.

Good luck.

[SeaDawg]

26 minutes ago, SherMica said:

38 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:

Check before you go to a walmart. My local Walmart doesn't service trailers, unless I remove the wheels and tires and bring them in, which I do on the boat trailer. Not the Oliver.

I take my trailer to a local independent. 

Do you have a tire pressure guage?

Expand  

Yeah I have several. Used to ride motorcycles. I am a woman of many talents but disassembling cabinetry is not among them, nor does it interest me. $61k.

I’ll get the vehicle inspector — appt tomorrow for truck and trailer — to do all this.

Not his/her job. 

Call walmart. Or, do it yourself.

Edited February 4, 2021 by SeaDawg

[SeaDawg]

One more thing, before you call for service, or do any other machinations, try resetting the fridge 110 breaker, again, for the fridge.  (Probably under the small dinette seat?) If you're running on propane, this will not affect your fridge operation. You don't need 110 to run the fridge on propane.

Make sure you are resetting the correct breaker. Look at the chart. Turn it off for 30 minutes to an hour. Some electronics take a surprisingly long time to reset. 

Take a photo, so we know it's the right breaker.

There is a manual reset for norcolds, with a series of button presses, but the user can only reset it once, and you may be locked out if it doesn't work. At least, that's the way it worked on our old norcold. And, it might disable everything,  if it doesn't work. Reading your posts, I  would not encourage you to even try.

 

[QuestionMark]

As others have already stated, the most likely cause is that the refrigerator has come unplugged and needs to be plugged back in.   It happened twice on our Elite I during the first few months of ownership and at first I was baffled by the 10 error code.  I was able to come across a post someone had submitted awhile back that described the location of the plug.   Once plugged back in it works as designed.   Jason recommended we use a zip-tie to secure once we had it plugged back in.  We have not had another problem with the refrigerator since.   

As for your outside door cable breaking loose, you can see my previous post "First few months of ownership" where we had the same thing happen to us.  We used gorilla two part epoxy per Jason's recommendation to reattach and have not had another problem.

 

 

[Moonlight Mile]

39 minutes ago, QuestionMark said:

As others have already stated, the most likely cause is that the refrigerator has come unplugged and needs to be plugged back in.   It happened twice on our Elite I during the first few months of ownership and at first I was baffled by the 10 error code.  I was able to come across a post someone had submitted awhile back that described the location of the plug.   Once plugged back in it works as designed.   Jason recommended we use a zip-tie to secure once we had it plugged back in.  We have not had another problem with the refrigerator since.   

As for your outside door cable breaking loose, you can see my previous post "First few months of ownership" where we had the same thing happen to us.  We used gorilla two part epoxy per Jason's recommendation to reattach and have not had another problem.

 

 

I just think these things should not happen on a new trailer. Known issues should be fixed.

[SeaDawg]

I agree.

But, we don't even know if that's your issue.  Yet.

You do know that your warranty covers you, wherever you are, right?

[Hokieman]

I had the same tires you have on my Elite I.   I followed advice on this forum from experienced owners, kept them at 55psi.  As expected,  the trailer rode  much softer,  good wear, no fallen window shades, no parts rattling loose.  I checked the temps at every stop, never got above warm.   I’m just guessing, but this is just one of those issues that many OTT owners seem to disagree with Oliver.  When I get my new Elite II in a few months, I’m going to air the tires down to 55 before or shortly after I leave the lot.  

[Ray and Susan Huff]

6 hours ago, Jim_Oker said:

Re: fridge on propane,  at least in my  van our Dometic fridge uses  VERY little propane even  in hot weather.  When out camping we only rarely have  run it on electric. After a few weeks  in hot UT/AZ weather I've refilled out of an  abundance  of  caution (there is  no way to tell how full  the  welded on tank is on  our van) only to find that I've  used *maybe* a gallon (and some of that  for bursts  of furnace heat now and then).

We went most of a season in our camper van with the onboard LP tank.  Running fridge always on propane, stove top and only a few mornings of running the furnace.  The only way you can go through a lot of propane is if you run the furnace all night; we haven't (yet) done a lot of very cold weather camping, so furnace use is not a factor.

 

[Moonlight Mile]

I am up at oh dark thirty and humidity in cabin is 76%, so running main fan and bathroom fan and plugin dehumidifier. 
 

Meanwhile, interesting news: walked the loop here at campground (dog) at 3:30 AM admiring all the various RVs. Look up in the dark and did a double and triple take.

18 spaces down from me, someone in an Elite II.

I am going to take a chance and leave a post-it on their site, as visibly and securely placed as possible, before I leave early this AM to tow into town on impt business, with my first name and cell (which is not working well for incoming calls - keeps going to vm) for texting me, in the hope that this/these fellow Ollie owner/s is/are staying here even just tonight. If nothing else we should say hi, right? I have no idea what year this Elite II is. But it certainly stands out in a row of primarily motorhomes and a couple of trailers. I said to myself as I walked up on it in the dark, “It has to be a mirage. What are the odds?”

[Mike and Carol]

Yes, you should say hi!  As you travel around you will meet others and begin to build a network of fellow owners.  I’ve texted and called fellow owners more than a few times for help and advice!  

Assuming you are somewhere in Texas?  We’re near Texarkana and will be close to Houston next week.  Mike

[Jim_Oker]

On 2/3/2021 at 3:43 PM, SherMica said:

Also, tech support level 1: “Did you try rebooting?”

When I worked building interactive computer based museum exhibits, I quickly learned that when the phone  call came, the first thing to check  was "is it still plugged in?" 🙂

I boiled that  and a few other helpful reminders of stupid  things to check  first when customers  call into the observation "You  can't fix it if it's  not broken!"

Edited February 5, 2021 by Jim_Oker

[BackofBeyond]

On 2/4/2021 at 10:18 PM, Jim_Oker said:

When I worked building interactive computer based museum exhibits, I quickly learned that when the phone  call came, the first thing to check  was "is it still plugged in?" 🙂

I boiled that  and a few other helpful reminders of stupid  things to check  first when customers  call into the observation "You  can't fix it if it's  not broken!"

Occam's razor

“With all things being equal, the simplest explanation tends to be the right one.”

― William of Ockham

 

And for us guys - usually asked by our spouse - Did you read the instruction manual?

Occam's razor - Wikipedia

If my 3 power source RV refrigerator/freezer runs on propane and DC - and initially once ran on shore power AC - my method of trouble shooting: the simple answer is the unit is not connected - somewhere- either at the plug, the breaker, or somewhere in-between. At the AC receptacle - verify 120 volts ac. yes - plug it in, no - find out why not.  Receptacle has AC power - fridge is plugged in - and still no workie - check voltage at point of connection in the units access port. AC is there - perhaps the units control circuitry is bad. (very low probability but possible)  Any decent RV repair person could figure this out in about 5 min.  Oliver does pay for such services. 

Take 5 min - lower the tire pressures to 55 psi. Done. If  not done - don't bother with next suggestion.

Align the window shade clips - parallel to window - place the shade in the top clips - aligned correctly -do same for the lower - a swift but stern "smack" at the location of each clip will seat the frame. Done. 

Read owners manual - every page - twice. 

No RV is perfect - regardless of the price. Oliver is not any different.  

I've never met an Oliver owner that was not outgoing, friendly, and willing to help as much as possible. Oliver owners are your friend, until proven otherwise.

May the force be with you.

RB

And: I once told Jason my furnace did not have the on/off switch he said it did - in the location he said it was located. I was certain - until I proved I was an idiot - it was exactly where he said it was - right behind a bundle of control wires my preconceived yes said it wasn't.  A lesson I have relearned way to many times. We are all human after all.

 

 

 

[Frank C]

The original post author seems to have disappeared from this forum for over a week now after her initial posts about her camping experiences and issues after taking delivery of her Elite 1.   She didn’t seem very happy and based on her posts it seemed like she was going to try to return the trailer for a refund.   Just curious how things were going. 

Edited February 13, 2021 by FrankC

[John E Davies]

1 hour ago, BackofBeyond said:

 

And: I once told Jason my furnace did not have the on/off switch he said it did - in the location he said it was located. I was certain - until I proved I was an idiot - it was exactly where he said it was - right behind a bundle of control wires my preconceived yes said it wasn't.  

OK, this is news to me. Can you please explain? A picture would be best.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Mike and Carol]

 

1 hour ago, FrankC said:

The original post author seems to have disappeared from this forum for over a week now after her initial posts about her camping experiences and issues after taking delivery of her Elite 1.   She didn’t seem very happy and based on her posts it seemed like she was going to try to return the trailer for a refund.   Just curious how things were going. 

We were camped with Sheri this past week at Lake Livingston State Park near Houston.  She has resolved some issues and is heading back to TN to have Oliver take care of some.  We had a nice visit and I think she is doing better.  This RV life is so new to her with lots to learn, frustration happens easily.  Mike

[BackofBeyond]

1 hour ago, John E Davies said:

OK, this is news to me. Can you please explain? A picture would be best.

John Davies

Spokane WA

JD - to get a pic - you need to pull the outside access cover. Currently it is to cold and rainy out to mess with all that.

However- during the first year my furnace refused to ignite- seems the sail switch fault just would not reset. If I remember correctly - Jason wanted me to reset it with the internal on/off. I had a time finding it... but it was there. It did not make a difference - and had to take the Oliver back to Oliver service - after a week- they finally got it to work. They said after they had tried everything the factory rep suggested - a tech finally took an air hose and blew the system out - and it has been fine since - well -it doesn't like 10,000 ft. in  elevation. Was very hit and miss on combustion at initial start.  It has worked fine since at  lower elevations.

[BackofBeyond]

2 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:

 

We were camped with Sheri this past week at Lake Livingston State Park near Houston.  She has resolved some issues and is heading back to TN to have Oliver take care of some.  We had a nice visit and I think she is doing better.  This RV life is so new to her with lots to learn, frustration happens easily.  Mike

Curious Mike - were you able to help on the fridge issue? 

RB

[John E Davies]

15 minutes ago, BackofBeyond said:

JD - to get a pic - you need to pull the outside access cover.

Wow. This is completely mind boggling. I have the outside furnace cover off right now, I am about to dig deep inside its guts to see what is what, clean the fans, look inside the burner and take pics for a How To thread. Do you know if the power switch is on the circuit board itself? What a lovely place to put it ;( 

I am thinking about the Dinosaur control board, it has diagnostic LED lights on it. How cool would it be to remote mount the board on top of the furnace housing, inside the trailer...? Maybe make an extension cable for the harness? Blinking lights are no good if the board is buried deep inside.

Thanks,

John Davies
Spokane WA

 

Edited February 13, 2021 by John E Davies

[Mike and Carol]

15 minutes ago, BackofBeyond said:

Curious Mike - were you able to help on the fridge issue? 

RB

Oliver sent a technician to the campground in TX who fixed the issue.  The fridge was not plugged in and it was difficult to reach.  Mike

[xmavrick]

Wow that says a lot about OTT commitment to customer satisfaction. I bet sending a mobile tech out wasn't cheap.

[BackofBeyond]

1 hour ago, Mike and Carol said:

Oliver sent a technician to the campground in TX who fixed the issue.  The fridge was not plugged in and it was difficult to reach.  Mike

If any prospective Oliver customer ever had their doubts - post this thread. Drop the mic - as they say. Oliver management - I applaud you. 

RB

Whether an Oliver tech - or a local service -  that is how you do it.

Edited February 13, 2021 by BackofBeyond
update

[Mike and Carol]

1 hour ago, Mike and Carol said:

Oliver sent a technician to the campground in TX who fixed the issue.  The fridge was not plugged in and it was difficult to reach.  Mike

To be clear, I believe this was a local repair tech, not an Oliver service person that drove from Hohenwald to Houston to do this work.  Just like any of us who have an issue at home or away from Hohenwald, we get a local repair tech to do the work.  Oliver picks up the bill.

[BackofBeyond]

1 hour ago, John E Davies said:

Wow. This is completely mind boggling. I have the outside furnace cover off right now, I am about to dig deep inside its guts to see what is what, clean the fans, look inside the burner and take pics for a How To thread. Do you know if the power switch is on the circuit board itself? What a lovely place to put it ;( 

I am thinking about the Dinosaur control board, it has diagnostic LED lights on it. How cool would it be to remote mount the board on top of the furnace housing, inside the trailer...? Maybe make an extension cable for the harness? Blinking lights are no good if the board is buried deep inside.

Thanks,

John Davies
Spokane WA

 

JD -This was not yesterday- IF I was certain- well - in the recesses of my well abused mind, I seem to think it was on a metal support, back about half way into the guts of the beast. But then - I might be remembering a memory best left alone. ... hope your journey is a good one -into  the heart of darkness - a suburban/Dometic/who knows  furnace trilogy. 

RB 

[ADKCamper]

Had a similar experience with our Elite (#409 - late 2018) shortly after pickup. Fridge was working fine on AC at first, then it wasn't... After a bunch of poking around I discovered the AC plug was dangling almost out of its receptacle, which was located on the curbside wheel well (to the left of the refrigerator as viewed from the outside lower vent panel) behind a foil-sealed "plastic cardboard" panel. It was tricky to get in there without messing up that panel. No way to tell if that plug was initially fully seated or not. Haven't had a problem with it since. I'm surprised that such a "buried" outlet location meets code... or maybe it doesn't? Seems like that outlet should be in plain sight behind the refrigerator lower vent cover, probably with a weather-proof cover on it.

Also had issues with the window shades falling off a few times. I found & replaced a couple of broken clips... and... lowered the tire pressure to 55-60psi.

No problems with either of those issues since!

[Jim_Oker]

On 2/13/2021 at 9:09 AM, John E Davies said:

A picture would be best.

Here's a pic of a furnace reset switch from an owner (who  posts in the Facebook group) who had  to reset theirs to get  it going again after having drained their batteries empty and then got them charged again. They said this about its  location: "inside. We opened the panel on curbside back of the trailer. 4 screws to remove the panel. Then we looked for the reset switch. Really hard to see. Finally found it. Click it once and the thermostat is turned off. Click it again and everything started back up." The folks in Service had them reset via this switch:

Edited February 14, 2021 by Jim_Oker