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Do you have an LE or LEII and what year is it? Bill

I understand my Oliver is a complex group of systems and third-party products. That said, two things keep my tolerance in check - first, Oliver. No matter what, how many or for what reason, they have always said “Not a problem Mr. Sperring we will take care of it.” Second, this forum. The people here care for one another and truly want to help. Whether it’s an opinion or hard learned knowledge. Time and time again you all have helped me. I hope I can return the favor as my experience grows.

Thanks for the clarification. The way to tell if your charger is working is by checking the voltage on the battery monitor. If it goes up when you plug in, then it’s working. It will read 14.4 or something close to that when you first plug in, and usually 13 something when you unplug. Just for clarity, your DC circuit is always DC even when you’re plugged in. What happens is that when you’re on shore power, the charger converts some of the 120 power to 12 volt and adds that to the 12 v ‘pool’. Part of that power will go to the batteries to charge them and part will be used by your lights, etc. So, in other words, your charger is converting when you’re plugged rather than when you’re not, and there isn’t really a ‘switch’ that changes you from 120 to 12 v. I still think that the fridge is the most likely culprit, since there isn’t anything else that would ask for more power when you unplug. And if your breaker is tripping immediately, then it has to be a pretty big surge of power that’s doing it. Otherwise, it would take a bit for it to trip. I guess another thought is that the breaker is bad, and maybe vibrating open when you’re traveling. If the problem is repeatable in your driveway, then that’s probably not the case though. Do you have an inverter? If so, I guess that’s another possibility and you might try unplugging that before you disconnect.

My apologies for not being clear. When I am plugged into shore power the trailer is running on AC. When I unplug from the shore power and the trailer is supposed to automatically convert the system (including the refrigerator) to DC, this "master" switch is tripped and there is no power until I reset the switch under the bed. I don't know how to tell if my batteries are charging when plugged in. I have been suspecting the refrigerator so I have turned the refrig off before unplugging from shore - this worked (didn't trip the switch) for the first few weeks but then it failed as described above.

We also have a crack in the lower right corner of the trim frame. We have the Contoure RV-950S. Looks like it is a different unit from what topgun2 has so it might mount differently.

After years of dealing with large carpets, I've switched to a smaller item. Check for Camco utility mat. Folds up easy and easy to store.

Foy, I just noticed a small crack in the lower right corner of our microwave frame while cleaning the other day. It’s just big enough to catch my cleaning cloth. I assumed it was cracked during installation but your thoughts sound more likely. Thanks for bringing up this subject......Kathy [attachment file=52095C67-95A3-44DE-B5E6-B5CC0A31817D.jpeg]

Yes If you delete the microwave they still install the outlet in the cabinet above and there is a hole to run a plug through. You could get a small microwave later and put it in the storage cabinet.

Interesting, and timely. We are on the fence about getting an installed microwave in our 2019 Oliver and I do believe you have just helped me decide - reckon we will opt for the extra storage instead. If later we decide a microwave is a useful item, couldn't we simply get a small plug-in type and carry it with us as we already plan to carry other electric cooking appliances such as the "One Pot" and an electric griddle.

Typically either a trip to the factory or Oliver will pay to have someone local do it.

How do you get it fixed?

I have to say, Foy, you and mirna are the nicest and most tolerant people I think I've ever met, dealing with yet another issue and you still handle it with class and patience, a lot of people would have already lost their "cool", good for you! Steve

Yep - that was probably me. However, my microwave was only held in by the "face plate" and when the 3/4 inch screws that held it in place let go, the whole microwave almost broke loose going down the road. There is supposed to be a bracket on the top, middle of the microwave that holds it firmly to the surrounding cabinet above. One should be able to see this bracket by removing the face plate, shining a light across the top of the microwave right in the middle. The bracket is made of thin, but strong steel. Bill

Foy, I just checked mine, no cracks. I imagine your diagnosis is correct, either the mounts are loose or have never been connected. I seem to remember someone else posting about their microwave coming out ( it wasn't mounted correctly) Steve

Impossible to say for certain, but that sounds like the most logical answer.

Thank you Matt! I appreciate all of you there, you’re all the best!

I've updated the Technical Service Bulletin. They have been emailed and will be mailed by USPS first-class mail today. http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/inverter-ground/

Dear Oliver Owners, Oliver Travel Trailers thanks you for bringing this to our attention. We are in the process of developing a set of inspection guidelines and repair procedures. A technical service bulletin will be released shortly. We wanted to let everyone know that we are aware of the issue and that we are working to resolve this as soon as possible. We will notify everyone with more information once we have developed the inspection guidelines and repair procedure. Thank you again for bringing this to our attention.