Leaderboard

I was able to "wake up" the inverter by plugging into shore power. I was kind of "shocked" 🙂 that it came on and started charging the batteries. I then unplugged shore power and it stayed on with DC. Go figure. I'm definitely not happy with not being able to understand what happened or explain it yet. I will still call Xantrex and open a service ticket with OTT. I need to understand if this was normal (hope not) and if not what could have caused it. Could be a precursor to an all out inverter failure for all I know. So, I hope to learn more from either OTT service or Xantrex, but here's what I've learned so far. 1. This issue combined with the [20] error code (lost communication) on the remote leaves me with zero confidence in this component. 2. To JD's point, what if the microwave really fries the inverter and with it the critical charger? Definitely need a backup AC charger for Lithium and would consider one now even if the charger was isolated from the inverter. It's just too important to not have a backup in my mind. 3. Thank goodness OTT engineering has not designed the Ollie in a way that relies on 120V for anything operationally critical. 4. My all-electric backup plan for heat (which is critical unlike Air Conditioning) should my propane run out or the furnace fail has to be all 12V DC. I was considering using my Mr. Heat portable as a backup, but that's 120V. 5. My wife brings some reality to the situation. She says we paid good money for the ability to have oven cooked chicken and microwave popcorn if we want and this is not a pop up camper. If I get an answer to what happened in this particular case, I'll definitely update this thread.

Heads up! Home Depot bulk packs of the sizes you will use most on sale through Dec 26, in natural and black, $9.88. Even their regular price is a great deal compared to buying the smaller packs. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Assorted-Cable-Tie-Canister-Natural-650-Pack-4in-8in-11in-natural-650/203531946 The black ones: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Assorted-Cable-Ties-650-Pack-4-8-11in-UV-tie/302366855 Here is a BIG caution about nylon ties, some cheap brands are brittle and will break. I am talking about Harbor Freight and Walmart specifically. It is distressing to have one after the next of your “50 pound rated” ties snap off merely by pulling them snug by a pair of pliers. They do harden and get brittle normally over a long time (age hardening) or when exposed to a lot of heat (your engine bay) but they should never do this straight out of the package.😤 I have never had a problem with this brand, and I won’t order brands on Amazon with weird names. I go though a bunch of ties, I even use them to secure opened bags of lawn fertilizer. Normally I prefer the lighter color but when the wires are in a black split loom sleeve like the Ollie, black looks a lot more professional. Happy Holidays. John Davies Spokane WA

I think our favorite campsite of 2020 is the one we’re sitting in right now on Sanibel Island hanging out in our brand spanking new Oliver....

This is the price you pay for combining a critical function (charging) in a non- critical device (making popcorn): with the factory lithium package if the inverter fails you can’t charge your batteries off shore power or a generator. And they won’t fully charge off your truck either! And if you don’t have solar there is no way to charge!! Having at least two separate charging sources is always a better setup for camping. The Progressive Dynamics charger section for Ollies without the lithium battery package is only $160 and can easily be changed in half an hour by the average owner. Why ruin a trip when one rarely used component quits? Does not compute.... ☹️ Good luck. Maybe also consider buying a high amperage portable lead acid charger, as an ultimate backup, it won’t hurt the lithium batteries in any way, it just won’t fully charge them. Complain to Oliver about their decision to charge off the inverter. I think it is a very dumb engineering decision. I will soon be able to charge my Victron lithiums by the PD converter (new module), by the truck (new DC to DC converter), by the roof panels (new MPPT controller) and by a portable panel. All independent of each other. I have already had one failure of the standard 2000 watt inverter, the replacement is loud, and I do not trust it. John Davies Spokane WA

For those with a technical interest this is useful. Even if you can’t understand much of it, take away this important fact. “... it is common to charge a 12 volt a 4-cell series pack with a lead acid battery charger. The maximum voltage of these chargers, whether AC powered, or using a car's alternator, is 14.4 volts. This works fine, but lead acid chargers will lower their voltage to 13.8 volts for the float charge, and so will usually terminate before the LiFe pack is at 100%. For this reason a special LiFe charger is required to reliably get to 100% capacity.” https://www.powerstream.com/LLLF.htm So maybe a standard automotive portable lead acid charger of adequate size would be a good thing to have as a backup in case your onboard system becomes inoperative..... it won’t fully charge it, but it will get it most of the way there, about 70%. Or for around $120 you can get a 20 amp Renogy unit that will eventually get them to 100%. https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-12V-20A-Alligator-Batteries/dp/B08C2JN76Q John Davies Spokane WA

This is my first post on this forum so forgive my ignorance if I say something silly here. My wife and I are in the queue for an elite 2 with the lithium pro package so the dead Xantrex 3000 post gave me concern. Following up on the post about the power save mode possibly being the problem I found the manual for the unit on the Xantrex site because the wrong manual is on the Oliver site. There is a power save mode that is factory set to shut the unit down 25 hours after ac loads drop below 50watts. When an ac load greater than 25 watts is sensed by the Xantrex unit it should automatically turn back on. I have attached a copy of the manual to this post. Not sure if this helps but the power save feature could be related at least. 254903808_FreedomXCPROOwnersGuide(975-0799-01-01_Rev-C)_ENG.pdf

I'm with JD here. It may seem efficient and $$ wise as a design, but has no real redundancy. Were I to redo my system - JD's plan would be the path I took. As for Xantrex - my experience with them- on another Oliver's inverter troubles was nothing short of explemporary! They did everything possible to help the customer. On another note - I ran my inverter solid for about a month - powering a portable freezer - never waivered.

My backup plan consists of a set of jumper cables. Mossey

John, Since you are installing an MMPT charge controller, you could disconnect the PVs and plug in the output from a 120V AC to 24V DC converter and have the MMPT controller properly charge your Li batteries. If you are installing dual controllers (one for roof top PVs and one for external PVs) you could easily use the external PV charge controller connector for this too. MMPT controllers can handle 100V DC (some 150V) and 120V AC to 24V DC converters for LED drivers or laptops are inexpensive with 10A, 15A or more current (240 to 360watts). Mike

According to JE Oliver service - its an problem code . Mine did similar - its an error code- all the monitors are wired in series - one goes bad - they all read/go bad. Ended up being a bad connection on the black tank sensor. I used that area for storage - seems it somehow caused an intermittent signal loss - and the error code. I was not able to located the exact place in the wire that had the issue - I simple took the stuff out of the area, and all has been fine since - I can recreate it by applying force to the wire loom. Not worth the time to tear it all apart - for now. I don't use black tank - it contains nothing but AIR- for whatever reason it has always read out as 10% full. I would surmise its the monitor "thingie" on the tank not reading correctly. Oh well. McB - check the connections on/at the tank locations- black/grey/fresh. One of those has an issue - or somewhere in-between. RB

It may be that the inverter has gone into power standby assuming the power button is in the on position. (In/down) Plugging in a lamp with 75W or greater light bulb in should wake it up. If this is the case, I would go into the settings and turn the power save timer off, then use the power switch on the inverter to put it in standby when it's not going to be needed for long periods.

Mac, there's actually a power switch of sorts on the front of the inverter. It's not really power - it's for "hard on" or "standby" mode. Standby is what it should be on for normal operation (button out) I believe. You could push it in and see if that turns on the inverter. If you have absolutely no power from the batteries to the inverter and you've made sure the inverter breakers (there are 2) aren't tripped, then you may have encountered the exact problem I was having. Plugging into AC/Shore fixed mine - at least for now.

For anyone interested, I fixed my issue by removing the panel and disconnecting the wires attached to it ( not those related to the water pump). Once reconnected, the readings are back to normal..

They need to stop putting that little round hole there, and instead hinge the air return grill so it will swing down. Or put a bigger opening with a door, and mount the grill on that. Or move that grill across the room under the dinette..... John Davies Spokane WA

Thank you to Mattnan and Mainiac for pointing us in the direction of Banana Banners for our graphics..

Well, that’s not an easy question.... We’ve also been to many, mountains, canyons, beach, tough to say. If we could go back to one (and we tried) it would be at a private campground outside of Sylva, NC. It was a site owned by a former Oliver owner, Cobra1169. He ended up selling the campsite before we could return. It was just outside of Smokey Mountains National Park, the site backed up to a babbling creek, was very private and had a covered sitting area right on the creek. It’s a favorite because the week we were there we had great weather and had a very relaxing stay.

Super easy for us since we just picked up last month and have only camped at David Crocket SP and now Badin Lake CG in Uwharrie National Forest (close to home in NC) in 2020. DCSP was nice, but we were too busy unpacking and checking things to really relax. This latest trip to Badin Lake was fantastic (just got back today). Our first boondocking trip and I am happy to finally color in my own state on the map! 🙂

Haven't had time to take many vanity shots of Pearl; 11 days on the road, preparing meals in hotel rooms, and transferring our gear from the back of the pickup to the trailer have been exhausting. Here is one quick shot at our campsite in David Crockett SP. I know, not too exciting. The park is wonderful and we found Tennessee to be beautiful, despite the trees all being bare. Trip report: I was apprehensive, driving cross country this time of year, but we've certainly been fortunate. The journey from Oregon to Tennessee was amazing. There was barely any traffic on I-80 and, although it was cold and we experienced a few snow flurries in Missouri and some wind coming through Wyoming, the weather has been great. We are now headed west, taking the I-40 route to Nevada then north to Oregon via Hwy 365 and I-5. Current weather forecasts don't predict any snow; perhaps a shower around Susanville, CA. Looks like clear sailing! We will get some practice dealing with cold temperatures, but I believe we can manage without completely winterizing, just draining the hot water tank during travel time from Flagstaff through the Sierras. While camped at David Crockett SP, nighttime temps were in the mid 20's, but were able to maintain 40 deg temps in the utility area with the furnace or an electric space heater. Our plan is to pass through from Albuquerque to Kingman and not overnight in northern AZ where temps will drop to the teens at night. Daytime temperatures are expected to be mid 30's to upper 40's. The only other questionable area will be crossing the Sierras around Susanville. Will be watching the weather forecasts daily.

This is a LOCKED thread. I wanted to put all my links in one spot so that they are easy for folks to find. Search remains a real problem with this forum! This thread does not allow comments. If you have questions, find a dead link or just want to talk, you can comment on the appropriate thread, or start a new thread or just Message me. I will add to this page as I start new threads, so hopefully it will continue to be a good up-to-date reference. NEWEST POSTS ARE AT THE TOP. I am not going to bother to alphabetize them, LOL. I put a link to this page in my signature, so you can get here directly from any of my comments. 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EDIT 08/11/18 Uploaded a (corrected) Numbers Revision 01 file and a (new) Excel Revision 01 file. Note: I will keep any future major updates or important comments in this first post. I do not want for them get lost in subsequent replies. If you are at all familiar with Excel or Numbers, this may be helpful. I was keeping my records in a variety of forms, and the data was getting increasingly messy and hard to interpret, so with the help of my wife I now have an all-in-one spreadsheet that I can update on-the-fly, as long as I have an internet connection. I back it up in the Cloud, so I can do data entry from my iPad at a campsite as easily as I can from my iMac at home. It has four tabs or sections. The first is the Trip log. The Date column "self-formats" so all the dates look alike. The Total column automatically updates when you enter the Trip (daily) number of miles. Don't mess with the figures in the TOTAL column. [attachment file=Trip log capture.png] The second tab is the Service Schedule/ Tech page. I have service reminders (stuff I need to do soon), torque values, service info and my Squawk List (aka the "Honey-Do List") - stuff I either want to or need to address, eventually. [attachment file=Service Tech Capture.png] The third tab is the actual Service Record, which includes all routine work, repairs, and mods. I did not include extra columns for cost and detailed lists - I summarized since a future owner would only need that rough data. The paper records are there if I need to get down to small part costs. [attachment file=Service Record capture.png] The last tab is an Inventory section, for me to keep track of loose stuff that is carried in the trailer, in case of loss. [attachment file=Inventory Capture.png] The sample file, which includes the data shown in the screen captures above, but not all my history, can be found at my Dropbox page. Follow this link for the NUMBERS file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/u4fmo7ko7oxde6y/DAVIES%20SAMPLE%20RV%20LOG%20Serv%20Rec%20Inv%20REV01%20%20NUMBERS.numbers?dl=0 Follow this link for the EXCEL file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/07kvpx7u1d9l7bc/DAVIES%20SAMPLE%20RV%20LOG%20Serv%20Rec%20Inv%20REV01%20%20EXCEL.xlsx?dl=0 I strongly suggest that you save your file as a Master, duplicate it and work with the copy in case you mess up some how. Change all the entries and headers as you see fit. I hope it is useful to some of you. The first and third tabs print very nicely in Landscape, the other two work in Portrait. Use the "Fit to Page" option, print one tab at a time, and they will all stay on one printed page, so they are easy to read. Please let me know if there are any problems downloading or opening the file. I know very little about spreadsheets, but way more than I used to ;) John Davies Spokane WA

I was doing some cleaning and maintenance today and pulled the battery tray out and found that the hook that secures the hold down strap to the tray had rubbed one battery enough that, it appeared to me, there may be a small hole in the side of the battery. The hook has corrosion that the other three don’t. I thought about slipping a thin piece of something (aluminum?) between the battery and the hook. These batteries are 5 years old and seem to charge fine. Thoughts? This shows both straps/hooks. The one in back has an issue. Here’s a close shot of the strap and hook with corrosion.

On the bay in Seward Waterfront Park , Alaska. life is good but I could go on to on the ocean along the 101 in Washington state again Life is good. Enjoy them all.

Funny, I was just cleaning up the two batteries that I’m sending back to Battleborn and was dismayed at the abuse they seem to be taking in the battery tray. The first pic is the bottom corner of one, where apparently some rivets in the tray dug into the case. The second is two gouges in the other battery from I don’t know what - I’m guessing a ratchet strap. And the third is the weirdest of all - it looks like the strap itself dug into the case, almost like it melted it.

Not Tesla but this may get the ball rolling. https://techcrunch.com/2020/12/08/rivian-is-building-its-own-ev-charging-network-but-with-an-adventurous-twist/?guccounter=1&guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly9hcHAuYXNhbmEuY29tLzAvaG9tZS8xMTYxMjgxOTI5NDEyODY0LzExOTk1NTU3OTUwNTIwODM&guce_referrer_sig=AQAAAJxaQrHAwb-CculLw98766mI4LhJOBH5vvGQ5XZfkXgUwfsJRH9kIOADdq4mw94pAXKzq5bBqZrtl6CN9iLyjMRp6CdSD1c6CQNTdjwalZmHcBVLyXTdpWxpIo3an2R_jjEjoV4uuZ2Y_z6oU9susKfEU6XoGR_xc5lpH8q87JQH

The jumper cables were already in my truck so I didn’t have to go to Wally World. Mossey

Thanks for the info John, I emailed the LifeBlue rep this am asking him for his thoughts on the subject of chargers. If my lead acid battery charger could get the batteries partially charged in a reasonable amount of time I think I’ll stick with that. I’d be looking for something to bail me out of a situation while on the road that I can stow in the truck and hopefully never need..

John, sorry for this trouble you're dealing with. Since we have similar interests in terms of cold weather camping I'll be following your thread closely. The resolution from either OTT and/or Xantrex will influence what power options we choose. Hopefully you get good tech support from both OTT and Xantrex and the issue is gone for good. I like JD's approach to isolating stuff and having back ups which is an approach I'll take because my brother got the "electrical gene", not me. I'd have a hell of a time fixing or troubleshooting anything electrical related while on a trip.

I can’t contort my arm enough to do anything through the access panel. I also have to lift the mattress and open the top access to do anything.

I have not seen that Mcb, but I had really messed up readings while at David Crockett. When I got home I dug around until I found the SeeLevel strips that are stuck to the sides of the tanks. I found my grey tank strip was partially peeling off and just pressed it back onto the tank better. That at least fixed my readings being skewed. You might check and see if a strip came completely loose somewhere or toggle the DC fuse for it.

Neapolitan shotguns? I’m so behind the hipster crowd.

Hi, Brandi. Nice job getting the trim ring off without breaking it. Did you use a hair dryer or a heat gun with that plastic knife? Our microwave had a metal household type trim kit, screwed to the fiberglass. Could be that our microwave was also installed differently from yours. Not sure. When we removed the dead microwave, we also removed the dead fridge. The brackets holding our microwave in place were secured by a few pieces of threaded rod, tightened from beneath in the fridge cavity. I don't think I have a photo, but I'll look. Paul was able to loosen it enough from the bottom to pull the microwave out. As we turned the microwave cavity into a cabinet, we removed all the threaded rod and brackets before we put the new fridge in place. I don't know if ours is the same as yours, but it's likely. You might also lift the vinyl covering the floor of the cabinet above the microwave and see if they extended the threaded rod up there. Ours isn't, but who knows. We don't have the same big oval vent as you do, either. Just a little round one on the side. As bhncb said, if you remove that stainless vent, you may at least be able to see the fasteners with a flashlight and an inspection mirror. Our fridge outlet is down low, by the fridge. It is on a separate circuit from the microwave. Have you checked the breaker or fuse for the microwave circuit? If yours is installed the same way as ours, you'll probably have to pull the fridge into the aisle to access the threaded rod.

I installed the Lagun table following Overland's instructions. I did use some aluminum backing plates. We had our table made buy a local craftsman with slightly narrower dimensions. We can fold everything up and put it in our front closet easily. We are very happy with this and we can leave the table up and position it to allow access to the twin beads, basement, and overhead cabinets. Overland's plan was really terrific. We have the basement door too. Just a thought---- You might want to consider Oveland's method for your dining and game table and I have seen some folks have added a fold down counter top extension to the right of the cook top for extra prep area. There are treads on the countertop extension on this forum somewhere. Good luck please share pictures of what you do. Hint ---- by not centering the Lagun bracket in the table you can gain significant flexibility in how you deploy the table. Ours is mounted closer to a corner of the center section. Done through trial end error using a cardboard mock up. It is a fun project.

I am not sure what the height above the floor you need, it is indeed possible to access the space between the battery box wall and the inner hull wall. Possible, not at all easy! In your shoes I would make a substantial aluminum backing plate and install threaded inserts (nutserts), so you will not need to fuss with nuts and washers, and you won’t need to get a wrench in that tight place. I guarantee that if you don’t go this route, you will say a whole lot of bad words..... Here is the technique, I used it to fish a couple of backing plates deep into a 2”x4” aluminum beam, for my rear rack tiedowns. In your case, you would pre-drill all the holes in the fiberglass, run the wire down toward the inverter, and drag the plate back up into position. VERY carefully... You could tie a string onto it too, from the bottom, so if it falls and disappears you can easily pull it back and try again. It will be trickier with the large size plate needed for your table mount, but if you have one hole centered at the top, it should balance/ align itself pretty well when drawn into position. For more accurate advice, take a picture of the area and annotate it to place an arrow or circle where you want to mount the bracket. I have looked up in that gap several times, each time I wonder why did they built such a promising place to mount things, but made it so hard to get to...? Good luck, post pics of your cool project. John Davies Spokane WA

I think I understand your question, but maybe not. The battery box and the pantry base has an air space around it that is about 1" to 2" in various locations. I don’t think a backing plate it the battery box would work because of that space, it would compress too much. The backing plate would need to be between the inner and outer hulls. I have gotten my hand up in the area between the bed and pantry to replace a cable gland. It was a struggle, but persistence paid off. So if you are trying to place the Lagun mount in the aisle, you would need to work from the access cover under the bed and see if you can get you hand and arm up in that area to hold the backing plate, washers and nuts in place while inserting a bolt through the table mount. My inverter would be in the way of accessing that area so I would remove it to increase the work area. It’s doable, just not as easy as the nightstand or under the bed overhang areas. Although I haven’t worked with the 8020 equipment, it seems that you are only limited by your imagination. Mossey

The Buffalo River is very close and the fishing there can be OK if you are willing to do a bit of walking between runs. This campground has a pit toilet (surprisingly clean in that it is not maintained by the Forest Service - therefore you have to bring your own TP) and several hiking trails right out of camp. While there is a nice view from the meadow at the western side of the camp, the better views are from Buffalo Valley Road about a mile to the west from the campsite. Potable water and trash bins are available in the Turpin Meadows campground - located about 9/10 of a mile east of the campsite. But, the really nice thing is that this campsite is free. However, several years ago, there was a "resident" griz that came into this camp every so often - there are still bear boxes in the campground for that reason. I could not get a cell signal from camp - if you travel back down to route 191/89 and turn south (left) there is a commercial campground/gas station/store on the right where you can get WiFi and/or a strong cell signal. For a fee you can also dump tanks here while you look at a wonderful view of the Tetons. Bill

Bob - For me this is easy - Box Creek de-commissioned NFS campground. N 43degrees 51 minutes 42.5 seconds W 110 degrees 17 minutes 39.0 seconds.

I agree - the Webber is one of my most used accessories - I now line it with HD aluminum foil - makes clean up very easy - I reline only when it gets pretty - cruddy. The dual propane ports - second only to the solar - on options. RB

In the above thread, the source is linked to: https://8020.net/3075.html The table mount is not something I can use but, I remember the 8020 site because I never knew that place existed! D

This is a recent issue that several people have been seeing on the Xantrex Inverter. We have already been in contact with Xantrex to determine what is causing this issue as replacing the remote or inverter does not resolve the issue. At this time Xantrex believes it to be a software issue and they are working on a firmware update. I currently do not have any other information as we are waiting on Xantrex to complete the firmware update, test to ensure it does resolve the issue and then communicate to us and other service centers on how they plan to implement this new software update. Anyone that is having this issue, if you haven't already, I would recommend submitting a service ticket so we know who to contact once we have more information. Until the issue is resolved you can still use the inverter by turning it off and on at the main panel. The inverter is located under the driver side bed and the main panel screen looks just like the remote. Simply press the round button to turn the inverter on for powering the 120v systems with battery power. You do not have to turn this on when connected to shore power. You can submit a service ticket at: Service Ticketing System

CONGRATS!! Pearl looks terrific.

Appreciate the welcome note from you and the suggestions. Also, got a good laugh about checkbook. It can be a problem when you appreciate quality. We are looking forward to the tour and feel of the Oliver. Liked the comments about being comfortable with size and being much more adaptable to conditions on the road. we will let you know what we find out after next week. thanks again, paul

Does anyone else feel like they should be down on knees bowing up and down while mumbling, “We’re not worthy, We’re not worthy...”? John, thanks so much for sharing all your labors of love regarding your Oliver! Alison

There is a switch on the Xantrex inverter as well as the remote. I've been toggling both with no results. Not even a flicker of electrons. I don't see any loose connections anywhere and there's not much I can do besides call OTT and Xantrex on Monday. I'm now thinking I better invest in a good Lithium charger as problems like this put my 4K worth of Lithiums at risk. Not good. I'm more and more frustrated not having the electrical schematics too. Seems I need them daily at this point. 😬