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We just came home from a trip. And we had a flat tire. It was in one of those remote places where you really don't want to have problems. I had just stopped at a service station and adjusted the PSI in the tires the day before and had a scare when one of the tires wouldn't stop letting air escape. Ultimately I was able to get all four tires properly inflated and we went on our way... thinking all was well. One of the four then went flat over night. I believe the cause was the "balance beads" used by Lionshead (a supplier to Oliver). I had the Andersen "rapid jack" which is just an oversized version of the camper leveler ramps...and with just a little assist from the Ollie's stabilizers, I was easily able to jack it up high enough to put on the spare and get into a town where the original tire was repaired... with a new valve stem. Since that time, I came home to discover that we (those effected by the balance beads) had received replacement valve stems that are resistant to interference from the balance beads... from Oliver. (Thank you Oliver!) I was on some very soft ground and with the Andersen rapid jack... I wasn't able to get the tire quite high enough for it to turn freely... but just a little assist from the Ollies stabilizer and she was clear. This also made it very convenient to tighten and torque the lug nuts... before putting it all down on the ground again.

Regarding your Maxair issue. Mine also died and I contacted Maxair with the same result... they sent me a new board explaining possible conflict with Lithiums. Replaced the board to no avail. Closer inspection revealed that there was no power to the hot lead where it connected to the fan. Fuse was good and the bathroom fan, which is on the same circuit, was fine. Determined that there was likely an issue with wiring itself and, after discussing the problem with Oliver, I ran a new lead (an adventure in itself) to the attic where the wiring was accessable. Problem solved. It appears that Oliver tied the Maxair positive lead into the wire leading to the bathroom fan and this appears to have come undone in a totally inaccessable area between the upper hulls. Ran a new tinned two-wire cable back to the attic along the port side of the AC unit using a wire snake... an adventure in itself. Note to self and others who may be listening... particularly those involved in manufacturing - NEVER bury a connector in an area which cannot be accessed. I was hesitant to send the trailer to a service center for repair as Oliver suggested might be necessary as my faith in the abilities of the average knuckle-dragger working in RV service is not high. I had mental pictures of getting my trailer back with holes poked here and there in the inner hull in their attempts to run a new line between inner and outer hulls. Jason in service was good enough to point me to the right wires in the attic by providing a schematic of the wiring from the attic to the fans in the head and the Maxfan. That revealed a possible source of the problem and suggested a fix.

No I am not looking for advice. And I agree that that I would be really distressed we’re I to lose something that cost that much. The point of my post is that I found this knife, it is in great shape and I have reason to believe it was lost by someone who owns an Oliver. If someone has lost this knife, please let me know where you were camped when you last had it.

We are spending the night at Oliver National Park tonight. We took Anita out to lunch and had dinner tonight with Phil and two of the lovely ladies in his life. Phoenix is adorable as expected. I found out several weeks ago that Oliver had made (what I consider) a major change that will be included in the 2023 models. Today I sat down with some management folks to get the lowdown. As many of you probably know, Goodyear has bought Cooper Tire. Oliver has equipped their new trailers with Coopers for the past few years. Due to the immediate unavailability of the tires they have been using, their only choice was to switch tire companies. During their research they reassessed their needs and goals for running gear. The decision has been made that going forward and starting immediately, both Oliver models will be equipped with 15 inch wheels and tires with a matching spare. The tires will be Goodyear Endurance ST225/75-15’s. Tire SizeST225/75R15 Product Code724857519 Speed RatingN Load Index117 Load RangeE SidewallBlack Uniform Tire Quality Grade (UTQG)- Max Load (lbs)2830 Max Inflation Pressure (PSI)80 Approved Rim Width (in.)6.0-7.0 Measured Rim Width (in.)6.0 Section Width (in.)8.8 Tread Depth (in 32nds)8 Outside Diameter (in.)28.3

My wife and I purchased our 2020 E2 based, to a certain degree, on our enthusiasm for cold weather adventuring. We took a number of trips over the 21/22 winter season to check out limits and capacities. All were trips between 3 and 7 days, in northern New England with night time temps in the range of roughly 30-0 degrees Fahrenheit. We would note nightly exterior temps, kept the overnight cabin interior set to 60 and rotated 3 digital temp sensors around what we found to be the most vulnerable areas to cold we found (and could get to) between the shells that housed water lines and tanks: 1) under front dinette seat, under street side bed by the exterior shower, 2) the pex lines to exterior shower passing through the faux wall at very rear of basement and 3) the battery box. We could not get to but are curious about the cabinet housing containing the bathroom sink. Playing it safe, we kept the trailer winterized for the entire time relying on containerized water and our composting toilet. All of our sites were boondocky, with no shore power hookups so we relied entirely on the LP furnace and solar/lithiums. We found that the stock trailer could manage to keep all the areas listed from dipping below freezing down to 25 (exterior temp). The lines behind the faux wall and exterior shower would hover in the low 30s at that temp. We realized those pex lines will, realistically speaking, need to be always kept winterized by adding cut offs as heating the basement area would be an inefficient waster of LP. Side note that we asked Jason if that could be done during our build and he informed us that the shop could not find anywhere with enough space to add them. We're open to suggestions. A simple set of tweaks including adding two layers of Reflectix to cover the interior of both the basement and battery compartment doors got us down to 20 with similar results. Next project was more involved. The temperature difference between the areas under and wall along side the curbside bed versus the street side bed was resulting in heavy condensation on the streetside wall and window which would soak that bed. We also found that the battery compartment was dropping down into the 30s at exterior temps in the high teens. While there is a matte heater pad below the batteries, it seemed to us that the compartment was too cold to reflect the lithiums themselves being warm enough to run efficiently and we noticed anecdotally an increased need for more charging assist - be it solar or generator. Could haver been the drain of the heat pad or the lithiums running less efficiently in the cold (as validated by the manufacturer) but which one did not matter. We felt adding heat to the box would be of benefit. Our fix was to re-route some heating vent. We capped the rearward 4" vent and re-ran that line through the gap behind the water tank from the furnace to the street side, past the inverter, under the battery box to a new vent we placed as a mirror image to the existing one below the drawers in the galley. One vent grate is pointed fore and the other aft. Here we used semi rigid vent tube specifically because it sheds so much heat, allowing the areas it runs through to warm. Where the tube ran past electronics, we would shield the hot tube in a layer of reflectix. Measuring with an infrared thermometer, the reflextix surface was cooler than the surface of the OEM flexi vent tubing and quite cool to the touch. The heat exiting the new vent would run about 10 degrees warmer than the one on the other side of the isle even though it is a further distance from the source. We expected an increase in output from the vent in the bathroom but did not notice much of a change. As the bathroom is a bit of a "dead end" with air being forced in but nowhere for it to exit, we added a 4" eyebrow vent at the floor level below the towel rack to allow for circulation and share some heat passively with another problem cold area - under the front dinette seat. While there are no pex lines run there, there are drain pipes and tanks and it would otherwise fall to freezing if outside temps were in the teens. Not very scientific but the furnace did not sound like it was under further strain or seem to run more frequently given similar temps. Our rate of LP consumption is roughly the same now as it was before alterations which, in single degree night time temps, consumes a 30lb tank in just over 2 days. Not very good. To increase efficiency, we cut two layers of "double bubble"reflectix and taped the edges with silver foil vent tape - as suggested in a previous post. They fit tightly inside all windows and are held in place by closing the shade. Bought a camco 14" soft material vent cover which bunjied over the Maxair (when not cooking) and cut a piece of 2" open cell foam to fit the window in the door. Covered it with a layer of reflectix and taped the edges. This is held firmly in place by the screen door. As all including the fan cover have refectix sides facing inward, the add ons look good enough - not jury rigged. Our takeaway is that these tweaks have bought us 20 degrees of leeway so we have squeaked by to zero. The batteries box is running much warmer but the other areas are more iffy. There is less condensation around the streetside bed but the exterior shower, for it's entire run, will need to be somehow shut off and winterizede or will be subject to freezing. Someone had suggested cutting a block of memory foam to put in the box with the exterior shower nozzle and knobs which may work but would not help with the tubing behind the faux wall. As to factory options that would have really helped: The exterior shower really needs cut offs or could have had it's lines run through a heated area of the belly and it would be super helpful to insulate the basement walls, basement door and shower door. The walls of the trailer REALLY transmit a lot of cold into the interior. A layer of spray on insulation foam would have gone a long way to help with that. I am also eyeballing the sealed belly and thinking a layer of sprayed on insulation could really help there as well. Am going to contact an HVAC place to get some feedback on options there. Also looking for doable suggestions. We love our Oliver and appreciate the incredible quality of the build. We also realize that there are very few folks looking to use theirs in frigid conditions. We're hoping that those of you that do, pipe in with further feedback and refinement to increase both capacity and efficiency in these sort of conditions.

Really helpful information Brian and Ray. If the the replacement board can be purchased for less than half of what I was quoted and there is half a chance I can switch out on my own, then keeping the unit is a no brainer. I'll go through the shared materials and give it a go. Much appreciated.

I have a 2020 LE2 also and I changed out the power board. It was not that difficult, just take your time and be careful. Mine died and was still under warranty, but getting someone to fix it was not possible in the two days before we left on a large trip. I just bought the board from camping world and it seems it was less than a $100 then. I have attached some Norcold pdf service files I found when I did it in hopes they may be helpful. Norcold Service Manual.pdf 525376907_Norcoldpowerboardchangeout.pdf Norcold board diagnostic.pdf

Most fridge boards are easy to replace. Have you tried Dinosaur Electronics? Check out their link HERE These guys make VERY reliable boards for most RV components like Fridge, Furnace, etc. I highly recommend them and they can usually talk you through diagnosing an issue. Best of luck with it, Brian

So I had a king sized quilt cut in half and use that for twins. I had it done by seamstress as my sewing abilities is limited to buttons. It was a good way to recycle bedding set still in good shape that I was not using.

Thanks for posting. Those would be great for a trailer or ATV with regular stems, but most late model vehicles have TPMS so they are not an option. If the price was significantly lower I would buy some, but in all my years I have never experienced a stem failure on any vehicle. If I bought them for”Mouse”, for sure I would bust one on the next trip. I don’t plan to push my luck. 😬 John Davies Spokane WA

"Good reason right there to get port side awning." We did order the street side awning for a variety of reasons. Picking up in three weeks. Hull number 1290 we're told. John

I am in the middle of a project where I am rebuilding the basement. I have decided to reroute the supply lines for the outside shower to a position more inboard than they are now. This is mainly to allow the new floor that I intend to install to be lower and completely flat. In rerouting those lines it will put them in a position closer to the centerline of the trailer as opposed to right next to the outside wall. This should have a positive effect on insulating those lines. I had not thought of putting valves into those lines, but it does sound like a good idea, and in their new position, it will be easy to do. I will probably put electric motorized valves in since I would not be able to easily access manual ones from the outside. Thanks for the idea.

I ALWAYS use Teflon tape on the anode. I do try to "chase" the old tape out of the threads before wrapping three new turns on. You always have to be careful when starting the anode in (especially a new one),_because the weight inside makes it difficult to line up the threads. You don't want to cross thread this item. If you get it in a little and have to take it out just make sure Teflon is still in good shape. If not remove it all and start over.

No reason, I use it, but what can perhaps happen is you install a new rod and the threads are a little smaller diameter, and instead of screwing in smoothly and a little deeper, it hits the white crusty “ridge” in the hole threads that forms from calcium deposits. It can leak then, because the nut isn’t quite deep enough. That is why a thread chaser should be used to clean all the gunk from the threads each time you remove the rod. I mentioned this at the top of this page. You can make one easily. John Davies Spokane WA

I kept the one Jac found, and it is going toward a set of snow tires for her new RDX. John Davies Spokane WA

Good try there, John. I found a hundred dollar bill while walking our dogs years ago. Tali demanded I give to her for safekeeping. I never saw it again.

Bad valve stem. We had all valve stems replaced soon after, to be safe. (40k miles on tires. Not complaining one bit.)

The Xantrex 3000 watt inverter/charger is necessary to have in order to be able to run the air conditioner off the batteries. It also is able to recharge the lithium batteries at up to 150 amps per hour, 3x that of the PD4045.

We’ve only gone from Silverton to Ouray, not the opposite direction. I don’t if Tali would go for that as she would be riding on the edge looking down.

The Wonder Egg has new shoes! Tires - Maxxis 8008 Plus ST205/75R15 / Max load: 2150 LBS at 65psi, 2040 at 60psi / Tread depth 9/32" / 8 PLY Wheels - Raceline 870 Element Wheels Size: 15 X 6 bolt pattern 6 X 5.5. / Load rating: 2830 LBS

If necessary, I suggest you re-purpose the concave washers from old shocks as described in this older thread to add additional support and extend life of rubber bushings. Shock Absorber Bushing Support

I asked about the brand and model, they are Lionshead, but I can not find that actual snowflake style wheel, it is not shown here. https://lionsheadtireandwheel.com/wheels One reason they may be retaining the 6 on 5 1/2 pattern is that the load rating is about 700 pounds higher, which is good. I did find one very nice 15” wheel with the smaller bolt pattern, and it has a 3200 pound rating. I would be quite reluctant to use a wheel with a 2150 limit on an LE2. John Davies Spokane WA

By adopting 15” wheels, dropping down from 6 lug to the standard 5 lug hub pattern will enable the Dexter/Kodiak 3500# 10” discs. The 16” wheels and required 6 lug hubs have been the hangup for a practical all-Dexter solution thus far.

The axles are not changing. The are no parts available to convert the 3500 pound axles used on the Elite II from drum to disc. It would be possible on the Elite I since it is supplied with a 5200 pound axle.

Fifteen years ago, 16” wheels were used extensively by the automotive industry. Now it’s an oddball size. All the heavy duty trucks are using 18” or 20”. Also at that time you could not buy a heavy duty tire in a 15” size and the ST tire’s being made were all Chinese maypops.

Michelin stopped making the tire. Papa Bean counter had nothing to do with it. Bill

I don't know why they just didn't stick with Michelin tires, they worked well for most from what I have read on this forum. I guess the company saved $10.00 a tire, so papa bean counter went for the tire change, even if customers weren't too keen on the idea. trainman

Agree with John - soaked, wet bugs come off a lot easier. I usually give our Ollie a hand wash in the driveway after a trip. I soak the bugs with water/carwash soap solution then wash the whole trailer leaving the bug-covered front for last. While washing and rinsing, I will hit the bugs with a stream of water and more soap from the soft car wash brush I use. Finally, use the soft brush or microfiber cloth and they come off pretty easy after soaking. Keeping the front polished with a good coat of wax twice a year helps too.

Too much or little application is usually a controller or actuator design causation. I use both a Redarc Elite and Prodigy P3 controllers when towing HydraStar EOH braked trailers, including my LEII with 12" discs. The P3 modulation is noticeably smoother during light applications as in stop and go traffic but the Redarc is much easier to "tune" on the fly for specific conditions. Point is, one controllers may perform "better" than another and some EOH actuators perform differently than others. As far as cold weather operation, there are two things that should be validated with any EOH installation subject to extreme cold temperature operation. Given your location, I would have expected MoRyde's top notch operation to be mindful of at least the first and suggest it be part of the installation. Hopefully they did. First concern is the current rating of the 7-way aux circuit. EOH actuators typically need a 40 amp minimum for extreme cold operation but there is no consensus between vehicle manufactures and 20 or 30 amp circuits are the most typical. The Ram 3500 is 30 amps. I have had to upgrade every tow vehicle for EOH compatibility except my Toyota Land Cruiser, which came with 40. Second is brake fluid. DOT 3 or 4 is generally the norm for manufacturer recommendations but DOT 4+ or 5.1 (not DOT 5) have a significantly lower viscosity at the low temperature end and will improve EOH performance below zero degrees. If the installer filled your system with DOT 4, this is the highest viscosity of all and not the ideal choice for extreme cold operation. I currently use a Bosch branded fluid that is an approved substitute for all of the above but there are a number of single spec, Low Viscosity, fluids available. My experience with EOH disc brakes has been quite the opposite. Using either controller, the discs are more confidence inspiring in downhill or emergency applications, and don't feel the additional cost over electric drums is even a consideration. While the LEII is only about 6300# ready to go, behind my 7300# Land Cruiser, it hardly feels like a light-weight rig. Maybe I need a bigger truck.

Thanks for the compliment, Bill. We are on our third set of quilts/spreads. They have all been standard twin sets from Bed Bath and Beyond or Target. We sleep with our heads to the kitchen but make the beds with the pillows at the back. We tuck in the excess quilt under the mattress on the wall side and have a normal amount on the aisle side. Nothing fancy, we try to be practical! Just took this tonight as we’re camping in Tennessee. This is our first iteration when we picked up in 2016 Another set a couple of years ago.

On my previous fifth wheel, we went in Indiana at MoRyde to get and independant suspension and disk break installed on the rig. Honestly, disk brake didn’t make a great difference because it is powerred electrictly and the reaction is always to much brake or not enough brake. Its hard to get the right ajustements. And the hydraulic pump and reservoir take a bit of space in compartment. In cold weather, sub zero, braking is harder because of the oil viscosity type. For a small rig like Oliver, i won’t get it for the price and the small difference on braking for a light weigh rig…….