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I have the Truma package. Last night we camped in Kansas with 22° as our night-time low. The Truma Varioheat works great. It keeps a steady temperature by varying the fan speed. There's also a night time mode that's quieter, but I wasn't bothered by it. We had no condensation in the morning. The inside walls only felt cool. Oliver makes a great trailer. Very happy with #1290 so far. John

I think all of us Lithium users would love such a procedure. However, the problem is that there are soooo many different situations that call for different procedures. For example: A warm location where hard freezes are rare, would likely have different requirements than a location such as ours where Ollie is on top of a mountain in Oklahoma and can see -10 degrees F for a week, and in the teens for a long time some winters. Some have shore power, some have solar, some don't have an inverter. Some have Lithionics, some Battleborn, some AGM and some LA. Each has different requirements. Some have internal heaters, some external heaters, some no heaters. Some can remove their batteries to a warm location... many can't. Some can store their trailer inside a non-freezing area, some outside, some covered. Is there someone looking out for the trailer on a regular basis, or is it all alone in harsh conditions for nine months? Just to name a few. Each of the above likely have impacts on a specific situation. So many so that a matrix would be useful... May I suggest that you summarize your specific electrical systems (Solar, Inverter, Converter, Shore Power, Expected Temperatures, how stored, how long will it be stored under what conditions it will be stored, etc.) and send it by E-mail to your battery MFG. Having their response to YOUR specific situation in WRITING would be golden. Your summary and their answer would make a wonderful thread on this forum. "Maybe titles: "XXX MFG Charging Recommendations for XXX Lithium Batteries". In the mean time, all this gets clearer with use and understanding. It is wondaful that we have o many great owners here that are so willing to help the new guys along the way get to truly enjoy our wonderful OTT's. Mahalo, GJ

Your frustration is understandable. What are the obvious areas you’ve checked? Have you determined what fluid is leaking? Probably fresh water and not gray? Since it is leaking all the time, have you emptied your fresh tank to rule that out? In Arizona you aren’t getting enough rain to make it leak all the time. Is there any moisture that you can see between the hulls? Have you checked under the dinette seats and under the beds? Does it make any difference if you raise the front of the trailer? If your tanks are empty and it’s not raining I can’t think of what would be causing a leak or what could be leaking. Did your reconnect the black wire to your light? Have you thought about getting a local RV repair shop to look at your issue? You should still be under warranty and Oliver should reimburse any cost. Have you opened a ticket with Oliver service? There is a long time Oliver owner down in Sierra Vista, not far from Benson, that has an RV guy there who has done work on their trailer that might be able to help. If you are interested, let me know and I can PM you their info. Mike

Will the temperatures be below freezing during the day? If not, you can move about without worry. If they are below freezing while traveling you can run your furnace while traveling. If you are camping at campgrounds with electricity, a small space heater is a good investment that will save you propane. We’ve camped with night time temperatures in the twenty’s many times without issues. Mike

Not looking to confuse things here but I called Lithionics about proper winter storage and, based on where I live (central Maine), it was suggested to me to remove my 3 batteries and store them inside which I did last year and plan to do again this year. I don't love removing them mostly because I don't like messing with the installer's work (Oliver installer) and getting the wiring to look exactly the same as it did from the factory when I reinstall them is impossible. That said, I had no issues this past year when I reinstalled them. As soon as I take the bolts out of the battery I immediately put a tie wrap (zip tie) through the wire terminal openings to keep everything "together" and the terminals in the same order from top to bottom. We can have many months of brutally cold temps where I live especially at night so removing them makes me feel better. I don't have shore power at my house but even if I did, I'd still remove the batteries. I have the heating pad with the red switch that others have mentioned. For what it's worth, I also don't like having anything "on" when my trailer is stored for the season. My storage period can be 5 months long.

We ordered the Truma water heater and the antifreeze kit. We’ll be sure it’s installed and we know how to use it. Thanks

We have done all of the above already. As of this morning this is where we are at: We did the following to check on the heater: Checked vent connections and visual inspection around the furnace. The Dometic thermostat has been re initialized and the degree off set is set to 2 degrees -Tested this morning with 2 additional digital thermometers mounted on the wall next to the thermostat. The Dometic thermostat was set to 55 degrees with the fan setting on Auto. The outside are temp was 35 degrees. Furnace came on and raised the temperature to 56 degrees according to the Dometic thermostat and furnace shut off. The other 2 thermometers read 53/52 degree 1 minute after furnace shut off there was a double clicking sound that came from the air conditioning unit mounted on the ceiling 1 minute later a 2nd double clicking sound came from the ac unit 10 seconds later a 3rd double click sound came from the ac unit 10 seconds later a 4th double click sound came from the ac unit 30 seconds later a 5th single click sound came from the ac unit and the furnace turned back on again The temperature read 55 degrees on the Dometic when the furnace restarted and ran for a few minutes and then shut off when the temperature on the domestic read 56 degrees. This has been forwarded to service. Sorry for not providing hull info, etc at the bottom, new at this... 2022 hull# 1265 with dometic ct thermostat/furnace

Don't forget about the Truma water heater if you will have one. Running the furnace while traveling will not protect the Truma in sub-freezing temperatures. Make sure the Truma is set to Eco when traveling in below freezing temps (propane) or alternatively, activate the electric antifreeze heating element in the Truma (preferred) if you ordered the option. Make sure OTT has actually installed the antifreeze kit when you pick up the trailer and make sure they explain how to insert the exhaust plug and set the control to electric antifreeze when you travel in sub-freezing weather. (And don't forget to remove the Truma exhaust plug before switching the Truma back to propane when you arrive at your destination.)

If it operates normally up to the time it starts short cycling, it is most certainly a control problem. Does it do the same thing when cooling? I guess you will have to wait until June to try that….. 😳 An RV tech should be able to diagnose it very easily by installing a temporary test thermostat. This would be covered by your warranty, so don’t worry too much. Old mechanical thermostats have an adjustable “dead zone”. I think that the digital types do have some sort of selectable value for this, to reduce short cycling under certain situations.. EDIT, your Dometic manual shows the default settings, it may be that something was not programmed right. That would be very easy to check. “Furnace Differential” refers to the dead band, in other words, the temp has to drop 2 degrees before the stat will send an “On” request to the furnace. If it were set to 1 or 0 (if that is even possible) it would short cycle. If it is set to 2 degrees, try changing it to a higher number. John Davies Spokane WA

We have #1290 and chose the Truma package. It was $3850 more. OTT said we are the first number with the Truma package. They made a binder with the Truma furnace and Truma A/C for us. We also have the Victron controller. I didn't realize that#1292 was the last 2022. We ordered on January 28 so this year the production slots filled up very fast.

OK - assuming the lighter one: 1. as dewdev points out above, cover/pad all sharp edges. The solar panels are the biggest and next would be the bumper. Pool noodles are your friend for both of these. 1a. don't forget to remove the antenna of the rearview camera if you have one. 2. lay out the cover on the ground with the front of the cover at the front of the Ollie and the back at the back. 3. Either get up on a ladder or use "painter's poles" with tennis balls on the ends to protect the cover (thanks to Patriot for this "painter pole idea) to feed the cover onto the roof and over obstacles that are on the roof. Adjust the cover using the poles or while on the ladder both front to back and side to side. 4. Batten down the hatches. 5. Grab a adult beverage an admire your work. Bill

I think people will likely love the Truma varioheat. More quiet and even. Night mode. If iur 15 year old suburban dies, the varioheat is on our radar for a replacement unit. We have a compressor fridge. It consumes 60 to 70 ah per day. Easily managed with our 400 watts of solar, and 200 watts portable, with a Honda 1000 backup. As most of you know, we camp without hookups 99 per cent of the time. But, we are power misers. No inverter, no microwave. Agm batteries (2 x group 31, 105 ah.)

I was just answering his original question about the above items. They are all there.

SeaDawg: Excellent advice! Beaver Pilot: Please post your TV and OTT info in your signature line. I have three close friends, all life-long residents of AK, who basically advised us the same concerns posted by SeaDawg. This past summer, we spent 45 days in Alaska with our OEII, most of it boondocking. However we did not venture very far north of Fairbanks. Over 15K from TX out and back. You'll need to be prepared for a lot of flying missiles and very rough slow slogging roads heading your way, especially if you venture more than very far from Fairbanks. As an Alaska Bush pilot, you likely have all of the below. But for new owners who have not DRIVEN to AK, here is a list of items that I found appropriate: Searching "mud flaps" and "stone stompers" postings at our forum. Start by looking at the bottom of all of John Davies post where he has a link to several of them. He, and other owners have well documented DYI solutions that such a trip would warrant. One suggestion that I did not take, that I wish I had done, was padding the front edges of my OEII and rear mud flaps on Ollie. Got battle scars as a result. Bringing a full compliment of tire maintenance tools (TPMS, Air Gauge, Air Compressor, jack, and a tire plug kit is the minimum. Bring an RV satellite based navigation system/ I have, and recommend, a Garmin InReach Mini II. If you don't have Ford's 36 gallon fuel tank (or equivalent), then having extra fuel cans. If your TV is older, then consider rubber hoses and belts. Handy to have a spare engine oil filter and oil. Near perfect full size spares for both TV and Ollie. Vehicle recovery gear. Good set of tools. First aid kit and extra meds for the duration of your trip (No Resupply). Update your Ollie with outdoor bug lights (courtesy (puddle) lights and porch lights). Finally if going way north of Fairbanks, plan on replacing your windshield and likely your Oliver front logo when you get back. Please keep us posted, and when you get back, kindly update the above list with your thoughts and experience. Good luck and safe travels! Geronimo John

You might try changing the fan speed setting on the thermostat from "Auto" to "High" (see instructions) and see if the problem(s) go away. Assuming you have the suburban furnace, the furnace fan must always run at "high" speed anyway. The "auto" fan speed setting is only relevant when using certain air conditioners/heat pumps.

According to their post on the Facebook group, the owners of #1292 took delivery Friday, and have the very last 2022 model built. It also looks like some of the 2023 features have been rolled out over these last trailers. #1289 has the Victron controller, and Rivernerd's #1291 has the new Truma furnace. I haven't seen anyone with the new compressor fridge yet. Here's hoping any problems with the new bits get ironed out by our March 29th delivery. And thank you to the new beta testers! 😉

Thanks, I did the same and saw that it was a newer trailer and so was hesitant to provide too much comment on what might be a different furnace than I have. It’s just a good practice to remind folks to put their trailer info in their signature so we don’t have to bounce back and forth between posts and profile pages! Mike

Why do you suspect that the temps will be in the 20's every night during the first week of December? HERE are the historical temps for Hohenwald for December and HERE is that same data for Nashville. Yes, temps can get to the 20's at night (as they are right now) but that is not the norm. Good luck with your delivery - have fun! Bill

Thanks.

Jimmy63 Two suggestions: 1.When you remove the batteries if you have solar panels make sure you seal the solar wire ends with something like putting them in a zip lock bag as the solar panels will still send current down to the wires even with the batteries removed. 2. When you put the batteries in your garage put them on some wood so they are not on the concrete floor as the concrete will drain the power out of them. Good luck

The biggies are a compressor fridge (and accompanying outside fold-down table) in the new vs electric/propane absorbsion fridge in the previous years. Victron replacing Zamp for the solar controller ( and hopefully but not likely more of the electrical system.) And lastly, with the optional Truma AC is the Truma furnace along with the previously available Truma inline water heater. There are more differences, but I think these three were the only major changes.

Yes, I didn't trust the microwave being attached by just those two screws in the top. I used scrap pieces of wood to wedge it in prior to putting the trim piece back on. Six years later it hasn't moved! Bill

Attached is a photo of what I believe to be a bathroom return air vent in our new Hull #1291 Elite II. It is on the back side of the aft bathroom wall, right above the black tank flush/check valve, and therefore accessible from underneath the front dinette seat. The second attached photo is shot from the bath side. I suspect the return air is expected to make its way back to the furnace through the area under the floor. You will note that the forced air vents are smaller than in previous models. I believe this is because we were the third Elite II upgraded to the Truma AC/VarioHeat furnace package. The air ducts are smaller diameter, but much more substantial than I have seen in photos previously posted on this forum. Maybe Oliver added return air vents as part of this upgrade? For what it's worth, a cold front moved into Tennessee last night. It has been in the high 30's today, with lows for tonight forecast to be in the mid-20's. We have run the furnace most of the day, with the bathroom door closed, yet it has been only a bit cooler in the bath than in the main cabin. I suspect that small return air duct has helped balance the flow of heated air to the bathroom.

I don't have lithium batteries but I don't think that has anything to do with leaving the inverter on or off. As a matter of course - I simply turn on my inverter on the rare occasion when I need 110 volts and turn it back off when I'm done. I've just never seen a reason to leave it on since it does burn energy (not much) just sitting there waiting to do its inverter thing. Bill

Kansa - I also apologize like JED above but are you sure that the will not reset? Sometimes they can be a bit finicky when you push in that reset button. It is a bit unusual for a GFI as new as yours is to be faulty (but certainly it can and does happen).

I would contact lifeblue, if I were you. Every manufacturer seems to offer different protocols, but noone seems to recommend constant charging for lifepo4 batteries. @Katjo

Thank you All for your insight. The chain was twisted -- flipped it twice. It lengthened to meet the under side of the hitch. Thanks again.

Where is the water coming in with your windows? 2nd what Ray, Mike, ScubaRX & Patriot are saying. Where we store Ollie under cover, Mud Dauber wasp will build their nest in the window drains that would cause drains to overflow in Ollie. We tape the lower window drains during storage to keep the Mud Daubers out. Other areas windows will leak from can be exterior fixtures above the windows like porch lights. This test takes two people, but when we had leaks, one of us would use a water hose above the the window porch light or fixture, to see if water comes in the window. We have the older style porch lights that was a source of leaks. Water will come in around porch lights and travel between the inner and outer hull coming out of the window in some cases. I keep white electrical tape on hand to temporarily seal a leak until we can repair it properly. When we first purchased Ollie, we had two window leaks that frustrated us with Ollie during our first camping trip. Took Ollie home and fixed the leaks years ago, not having leak problems since. 🙂 On your water system leak. Keep looking with bright light and feeling with your hand for the source of water leaks. It does not sound like a water tank leak with the air you're getting out of the faucet. It sounds more like a suction or pressure line to or from the 12V pump. Check the plumbing in the exterior storage area under the street side bed closely. Also pull out and check the exterior shower. If none of that works, I would removed a kitchen sink drawer to look at plumbing under the sink. Next I would remove the towel/soap rack under the bath sink to look for leaks. In the end, once these issues are fixed, you can really enjoy Ollie. It's a great fiberglass camper, once the leaks are fixed you normally don't have to worry about wood rot issues. Please let us know your progress! The Ollie family is here to help! 🙂

Margaret, You may want to pull your window seals out and inspect and clean the track beneath that seal. Clean the seals as well. The seals will easily go right back in after you remove them. Any dirt or debris that builds up in the window track will not allow water to properly drain through the exterior window weep holes. When the weep holes are blocked the water will over flow and eventually leak into your interior. We use an air compressor or you can use compressed air in a can to help in cleaning these tracks out. We clean the window tracks about every second or third wash and have not had any issues. Hope this helps. Patriot Here is a very helpful link -

How has it worked at 10,000 feet and a 12% climb? Or a 30 mph headwind? Or do you always stay low and in the East? What is your max tow rating, about 6500? It doesn’t take much very power to drive around on flat terrain near sea level😬 John Davies Spokane WA