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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/28/2022 in all areas

  1. So the answer is…five straight days of morning freezing temperatures, mostly mid 20’s but one of 12. One 36 hour period never above freezing. I had the Varioheat furnace at 68 and the Truma water heater on Eco. I did not open the basement door. All seems well after the fact. The outside shower is functioning normally. I used two and one half 20 pound bottles of propane. I left the Truma water heater and Varioheat on continuously.
    3 points
  2. I’ve had my Diamondback SE cover for 2.5 years, very satisfied with it. I live in Florida however, so not exposed to severe rain/freeze unless we are traveling and camping in those conditions, which we have done only a few times. The Diamondback manual recommends “Treat your weatherstrip with a petroleum jelly or silicone-based lubricant” to keep the weatherstrip from freezing closed. The vertical locks are stainless steel with a protective shield over the keyhole, just like the type on many of our cars and trucks. Diamondback warranties the cover, the weatherstripping, and the locks for life. If you give them a call, I’ll bet they will make it right, just like Oliver usually does.
    3 points
  3. As some of you may already know CGI Detailing will be in Florida again come late January. We will be attending the 2023 RV SuperShow along side Glidecoat (Our Ceramic Coating Company) We will be at Glidecoat's booth on the 20th and 21st hopefully talking to some of you guys but none the less meeting some amazing people in the RV community. With that being said, we will also be planning to apply some ceramic coatings as well. If anyone is interested in getting their Oliver Ceramic Coated in Florida please visit our website and submit a quote request so we can contact you https://www.cgidetailing.com/ As for pricing, we start at $2,800 for the LE2 and $2,000 for the LE1. There will be a travel fee added to the price as well which will be divided evenly between each person, the more we have the cheaper the travel fee will be. We appreciate everyones ongoing support over the past year and are truly blessed to be where we are at today. Thank You!
    2 points
  4. Our opening is 10x10 and worked fine. Important that the top is full 10ft. We have sliding barn doors vs a roll up.
    2 points
  5. We have a 10x10 door for our detail shop and have pulled several LE2's into the shop with no problem, both old and brand new Olivers. It's a tight fit and gives your roughly 4-6 inches of clearance on top of the Oliver since they are 9ft 6in tall. 10x10 is the smallest you can go and will work.
    2 points
  6. No, there’s a group of us that will be headed toward Quartzsite during that time.
    2 points
  7. 2 points
  8. I spoke with RecPro today about their 13.5K BTUH low profile units. Sadly, they have no engineering support what so ever. Could not answer any of my engineering questions: Did not know about our have any knowledge of use of Dometic Auxiliary Drain Kits as OTT uses. Did not know what kind of compressor they use. (Scroll, inverter, reciprocating or if it has a variable speed or step speed function. etc.) Did not know how the fans work (Multi-speed control, winding based speed-control or if they are just single speed.) They do have a wiring diagram though and it is provided with the unit. I asked if it was online and..... she did not know. So I changed my order and went with the 13.5K BTU unit. I think that if I use the OTT method of raising the A/C unit, that the Dometic Auxiliary Drain Kit may work on the Houghton units. Their bolt pattern is at 13.5. If our roof penetration is an actual 14" X 14", then I could run the drains together on the air return open duct to the existing 1/2" OTT through the wall drain line. This is still perking in my noodle. HOWEVER, one thing I did learn was that according to the RecPro Customer Service Contact (Sherrie), there have been two "Sets" of Houghton's. The first did NOT run the fan continuously. The Second Set does. She stated that the change was made by the Aussies and she did not know why. I stated that for at least 1/3 of US trailers it was a bad decision and certainly wasteful of energy.
    2 points
  9. I recently replaced my aging rubber hoses with some stainless steel braided hoses that had pressure gauges on them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZCRFLHD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details In order to eliminate the acute angle of the hose run, I turned each of the tanks' connections "outwards" on the trailer about 30° which made for a nice smooth curve of the hose. Be sure to always have a bottle of propane gas leak detector with you to confirm no leaks every time you connect your hoses to the tanks. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Gas-Leak-Detector-Dauber/dp/B0006JLSMO/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=propane+leak+detector+fluid&qid=1672186001&sr=8-6
    2 points
  10. I designed a floor plan for a house we planned to build a couple of years ago. When the garage and adjoining shop reached almost 4000 square feet, I decided we probably didn't need to build an 8000 square foot house at our age. It would have been nice though.
    2 points
  11. Sure does beat rolling the Oliver over on its roof so you could lay on your stomach!😇
    2 points
  12. THere are a few things you can do to address this problem. On the mount assembly: 1. The hinge bolt should be just tight enough to hold the TV in any position and require some force to change the angle. 2. The gold anodized latching bar should likewise be tight enough that it doesn't spin freely, but not so tight that it can't be turned with two fingers. 3. When pushing the TV up to the stored position, conclude with a downward pull to fully seat the latch. Lastly, for insurance, find some foam packing material or pool noodles and cut some pieces to wedge between the TV back and overhead cabinet. These will keep the latch under tension and cushion any TV wobble.
    2 points
  13. Mine from a year ago has a car door lock style cover of their the locks and work great in the cold/snow. Maybe they had a supplier constraint that forced them to a different style. Pick below from the db website might be the new design…
    1 point
  14. Thanks a lot. It will be an additional out building. The house has an adjoined three car garage with no space to add anything else in that area. Will be building an implement shed for the tractor and stuff and then a dedicated structure for the Oliver and a boat. Stuck at 26 ft width, length will be 32 ft. We live on a hillside so have to do everything terraced. So sounds like taller is better. Will speak to the builder and garage door company. Thanks a lot.
    1 point
  15. I installed brass 90 deg “street elbows” with new short rubber hoses. One important part of inspecting the hoses is to look for cracks (weather checking) and stainless wrapped hoses prevent this. Plus they are completely unnecessary in this application. Be aware that the small check valves must be retained, they provide one way flow away from the regulator, otherwise the switch over function will no longer work, since the tanks will essentially be connected to each other. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  16. The locks on the Diamondback cover are on a vertical surface, just like your door locks (see my picture earlier in the thread). They are attached to a handle that swivels 90 degrees to open the cover. I would think the hardest thing with this severe deep freeze would be the along the lengths between the bottom of generous rubber seal and the actual aluminum top. Best to open the tailgate and fish things out from within the best you can until conditions improve.
    1 point
  17. Or, keep using the old working regulator and carry a new one as backup.
    1 point
  18. You could replace the regulator and carry the old one as a back up.
    1 point
  19. I went with a 12ft high x 14ft wide and it is 30 ft long. I really like the 14 ft wide, for being able to work on the Oli and it gives me extra width for getting backed into place (still working on the backing skills). The extra height is also nice to get up on top. I had enough room I could have gone 36ft long, and I wish I had. When I was going over things with the contractor he told me that for resale I should do a 14ft high opening, and max the length out. We had set a financial limit on what we could spend on Oli, truck, RV port/garage, and accessories to get going. When it comes down to it, we hope this house will be our last, and we will never go with bigger RV/Trailer. I had a GMC greyhound bus conversion many years ago which was fun, and it had lots of room and storage. Although it was to big to get in placing that I can get the Oli into. We really like the Oli trailer setup better, and I no longer have to take care of a towed vehicle. So my decision for the RV garage was right for me. My Children will have to worry about resale in the future, I hope to be to darn old to worry about it. What I do regret is that 10 years ago I built a 10ft high x 24ft wide x 36ft deep garage with 2 stalls . I wish I would have be more forward thinking and built a 40ft wide x 36ft deep with 12-14ft height with 3 stalls. I would have saved 1/2 of the cost of the RV garage doing it all at once, and had more room. Good luck with your decisions.
    1 point
  20. It will be a tight fit but I think it will just make it if your carful. With out looking up the specs I think its 9 feet wide by 9 feet 6 inches tall. Dont forget the length 26 feet is about as small as you want I wish I built my pavilion 30 feet incase I decide to side it. . John is correct if you want to work on it it needs to be much bigger but the door size of 10 x10 may just make it but not by much. My pavilion is 14feet wide 12feet high and 26 feet deep. Bill
    1 point
  21. Hello "Lost..." I recently remodeled (lowered the floor) my garage and installed a new 10' door for my O-2; works great. Search for my project pictures under Gliddenwoods.
    1 point
  22. Too low! You need a 12 foot high door, at least. You also need a 16 foot ceiling in the garage so you can get up top and do maintenance and cleaning. In other words, an RV bay, not a garage. My door is 10 wide x 14 feet high. If you do not build it as a standard RV bay it will make it a lot harder to sell the house later. The older generation that is downsizing and investing in big RVs wants a bay and a small house. Out of the 25 houses on my street, 8 have attached RV bays. 43 or 45 feet long. John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  23. I'd be willing to bet that Matt Duncan will be there. Even if you already have your Ollie, you might want to stop by and introduce yourself to Matt - he is a great guy at Oliver to know. However, DO NOT agree to play golf with him unless you are very good at that game.😄 Bill
    1 point
  24. Could you please share a photo of this technique? Thanks.
    1 point
  25. We leave our TV in the stored up position, no issues. 👍🏻 Patriot
    1 point
  26. That sucker will come down????? We've always just both lay with our heads under it and look up at the screen. I'll be a.....
    1 point
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