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Finally, I upgraded my cloth to marine vinyl that is waterproof, looks and feels like leather to me. Latex foam with Muslin wrap for cushion. Cushions are noticeably heftier and more comfortable. Looking forward to using the them. Bonus, I can use the old back pillows to make up the king bed conversion without taking from the dinette. Ordered from Foamorder.com, took a couple of weeks to ship but well worth it IMO. Best, Mike

I use blue, ordinarily. Red is quite permanent. Blue generally does the job, but you can still remove the fastener, if necessary. But, Loctite is def your friend.

John, the Blue Sky solar controller is supposed to be mounted vertically (I think according to the manual) but that’s not practical every time. I added a fan and a snap type temperature sensor. I don’t remember the on and off temps but typically this type of sensor has a 30 deg dead band. The fan only draws about a tenth of an amp and run it on a one amp fuse. I added some slots in the plastic box for the air to pass through and this setup has made a huge difference in the temperature.

John, that’s approximately what I do for my suitcase solar. I wasn’t real pleased with the SAE plug being used for repeated connection disconnection so I added a secure two prong Cnlinko socket to the outside of the trailer. The Cnlinko plugs have a stainless latch that secures the connection.The Cnlinko socket is connected through a 10 amp fuse directly to the shunt for the Blue Sky solar controller. The Blue Sky IPN Pro remote displays all of the battery input information such as roof mounted solar, shore power battery charger, and the suitcase solar panels. I removed the solar controller that came with the suitcase panels and plug it in to the trailer and then plug the panels into the controller using the generic solar plugs. This allows a little bit higher voltage from the panels to travel the long distance from the panels to the controller. The wires from the controller are only about two feet long so less loss. All wiring is #10. The box that the controller is in is not waterproof so I just set it on top of the tire under the fender skirt. This idea was originally developed by John Davies.

This is the tester that I use before I plug in. It displays the voltage and checks several different potential power issues. Keep in mind that this type of meter only gives you a snapshot of power issues. Most of the power issues thus far discussed have been intermittent and random in nature. The power issue that I mentioned only occurred every once in a while but was bad enough to cause damage even with the factory installed surge protector. The actual surges were not the problem because the surge protector stopped them. The problem was that the power was switching on and off rapidly and several cycles in a row.

I added this 400W Renogy solar panel and Victron MPPT 100/30 CC, the CC was sized using this charge controller calculator from Explorist.Life/Nate. Pic of the stock 100/50 and 100/30 that I added for the 400W panel.

I like to test the power pole prior to spotting the Ollie and if I’m not blocking traffic I won’t even back in until I have verified the power pole is in working order. Mossey

It has not been my experience in 4 years of ownership. Annually or often after a really long trip, I go through and check all the fasteners I can find and snug them down as needed. I prefer medium strength blue locktite where applicable. We have always run 55 psi in our tires since the day we took delivery of XPLOR in June of 2020.

Yes, we also 'Had those Shims', found some on the floor below cabinets. Kind of reminded me of paint stir sticks. I removed ours, not really knowing what they were... I thought maybe temp spacers during assembly, and were left in there. I did save them, now I cannot find them, not in TT, must be in garage. I figured out what they were months later. However, have not had issues with drawers or slide/glides. all staying put. I do see where Metal Slide hdwe, may have some issues in the future, but no issues yet, and we have had travelled some rough roads. B~Out

We've not had issues with our drawers. They stay shut during travel without straps or locks. I did have a Blum Locking Device crack/fail and then that particular drawer did open during travel. Given newer hulls use the same, these were correct for ours, very reasonable and I have a backup part now. Side to Side Adjustable Locking Device for 563/569 Series Blum Tandem Drawer Slide - 2 Pair (4 Pieces) with Installation Screws - Amazon.com A couple months ago, I had to remove the drawers to fix a kitchen sink leak. I noted the drawer slides only had three tiny screws each! I added 3 more to each slide and used screws a size wider with larger heads. They are not going anywhere now.

@routlaw you mean like this 'on the road repair' of drawer 'Rails & Slides' ??? A number of '(2) pre-drill holes' however 'with only (1) screw'... never did find the missing ones. The screws used should have been 1/4" longer. Not bad for a 76yo 6-5, I was further in before Maggie took the Pic, and of course Willis was right in there with me ‘Supervising’…

Good practice. I’ve had bad 30a connections but when I checked the 50a it was fine so I just used it. We had a 30a go bad after a few days at Table Rock Lake near Branson and I was able to use the 50a until they got it fixed (it was hot and we needed the AC). Mike

John, We do not have factory solar on our LE2. Like mentioned in another thread, our solar suitcase system has evolved over the years. With a single 100AH Battleborn lithium battery and Ollie not being equipped with a 12V/120V inverter, our power use is low. We do use a Honda 2000 gen-set on poor solar days and in eastern US when it's hot & humid in the lower elevations we head to higher elevations to cool off when away from shore power. Tried MPPT SC with two 100W panels and PMW SC with one 100W panel. Currently using a single 100AH lithium battery with a PMW SC & one 100W panel works fine for us. Right now we're using a waterproof Renogy solar controller and waterproof Victron Bluetooth shunt (updated to a waterproof shunt when you mentioned in another thread you had one). Mounted everything on a 1/4" plastic board secured to the Battleborn battery with a nylon strap and locked in at the base between the battery and horizontal plastic board in the bottom of the battery tray and also leave compartment vents open during the summer.

A good practice!✅

As noted by JD, Sea Dog, and David Austin, tire pressure is a big deal. Prior to 2022 tire pressure out the door was 80 lbs. When we picked up our 2022 they were at 55 lbs. We run ours under 55 lbs. At 80 lbs. That would be the true definition of "Shake, Rattle, and Roll"😊

If you're not using bolts, washers, and nuts, maybe try petmatex blue/medium strength. It's supposed to bond to plastics , ie frp, ie, fiberglass.

I think that it will take a very large solar panel array to be able to reliably recharge your batteries after any significant AC use thru your inverter. I’ve played around with our system running the AC at night for 8hrs with 400w solar and 640 amp-hrs of lithium from the factory. Even if we had double our solar wattage, I think it would take 8-10 hrs of full perfect angled sun exposure in the summer to replace what the AC consumed overnight. Although running a generator is less desirable, our EU2200 could likely bring the batteries back to near full in 2-3 hrs and solar could top of the last 10-20% throughout the course of the day. If it it hot and humid when we camp, we try to have shore power or go north, or to elevation out west.

Mike, I believe mine was OTT installed. I have two OTT service receipts, dated 2018 and 2020, other receipts for tires, batteries etc. and nothing showing solar. See my Blue Sky system (see pic1). One odd thing though. When I removed the Xantrex 2KW inverter (no charger on our Xantrex like some newer hulls), the yellow 4 or 6 AWG ground strap had a 2018 date on it. That's weird on a 2016 hull! Maybe the inverter was replaced. My solar panels have serial numbers starting with 'Z' (see pic2) and when I searched online the newer Zamp 170W panels came up. I'm not absolutely sure of the 170W each rating. I also remember prior owner advertising that number, but they could be 160W. Maybe, I can contact Zamp re the serial number.

Our interstates are like driving on the Ford test track. We have had hinge screws come loose on the upper cabinets. We put locktite on them and that solved that issue We are on our third microwave frame. 2 replaced under warranty and some shoring up by Oliver. Better, but cracking on the corners again. That's the roads. As owners, checking fasteners, electrical connections, fuse connections, etc. should be on everyone's preventative maintenance list.

No, what tire pressure are you running?

You are now connected with a large group of willing mentors who, collectively, have nearly encyclopedic knowledge of camping with Oliver trailers. This forum is one of the best resources on those topics available anywhere. IMHO, the forum is better than any one mentor. Ask away!

Hi, everyone. My wife and I, both in late 50’s and recently retired are looking for life’s next big adventure. We are considering an Oliver Legacy Elite II in the hopes of exploring as many National, State and here in Canada, Provincial Parks as possible over the next 10 years. We come from a boating background, so we are not complete newbies when it comes to onboard water, grey and black tanks and power management, however, we are 100% newbie campers. Beyond this incredible forum, I was hoping to connect directly with someone who would be willing to be both an Oliver and camping Mentor for us as we embark on this new journey. Ideally, a contact who we could have the odd Zoom call with and who would be willing to help us navigate all there is to learn when one is starting out. We enjoy hiking, biking and kayaking and are hopeful that we might be lucky enough to connect with another like-minded Oliver owner who can share how they transport their bikes, yaks and gear, and how they set up their Oliver to best meet an active lifestyle. Any help or guidance on this idea would be appreciated. Cheers from Kingston, Ontario (Canada)

Ronbrink, why am I using a 10 amp fuse? My portable solar panels are 100 watts total. That’s all I needed. I haven’t looked at the plug/socket amp rating but that may be 10 amps.

@jd1923 carry on, don't let me mess you up. The bulkhead inlet I linked is for the Pro4K only unless you splice the wire. I feel like you have a good grasp of what you want and need. I do have a bias towards GZ stuff. Been using it since 2007.

We have been running at 50 since the beginning of the year.👍

Upon a side-by-side comparison to both 10 and 12 AWG wires on hand, the Furrion leads proved to be 12 AWG rather than 10 AWG, as previously thought to be. You are correct, 12 AWG - 20A, 10 AWG - 30A. Furthermore, the Furrion Installation Instructions state ‘Use only 10-12 AWG or above cable with this product. Using a smaller AWG cable will result in overheating and possible Fire Hazard.’ Thanks for helping me get the facts straight and out there for others to glean.

Tood & Kat, this would be a simpler solution. Prior owner had this product under our cushions and an extra roll in the cabinet! Works great, cushions do not slide at all. You want the 20" roll, not the more common 12". Kittrich is the company name and "Con-Tact" is their brand. Con-Tact Brand Grip Premium 4 ft. L x 20 in. W Gray Non-Adhesive Shelf Liner - Total Qty: 1 - Walmart.com

That surge protector will not protect you. You get what you pay for. If you want the proper protection,then you need a good EMS portable surge protector, such as the the Hughes Watchdog 30 amp EPO that will shut off power to the Oliver if there is an issue. South Wire Surge Guard 30 amp, or Progressive 30 amp, all EMS protectors, that cost $325+/-. I suggest you see what the guru of RV Electronics, Mike Sokol says about portable surge protectors. Link to a Mike Sokol article on surge protectors is in one of my earlier comments. He would tell you not to waste your money on the cheap ones You of course should do what you want Just saying.

Magnets sounds like an interesting solution. The new latex cushions and vinyl covers are actually more grippy and have a lot more heft to them. I never had an issue with the cloth cushions sliding off either, so I would be surprised if these do.

The outlet itself must have its own rating, based on the resistance of connecting hardware, so if it's stated as 10A that is its max rating. If it truly has 10 AWG wires, that's an odd design since 14 AWG is enough for 10A. I understand the reason for your question! I just ordered this, a CNLINKO rated at 25A with specs that state it requires 12 AWG wiring: CNLINKO BD-24 Industrial Waterproof Connector IP67 Circular Connector Device-Side Fast Plugging Connector Metal Aviation Connector Anti-Interference Shell Connector M24 Flange Socket (2 Pin): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific I believe 12 AWG is all that's needed for a 20A circuit, and 10 AWG is required for 30A. I will double-check my numbers. Sure, buy 10 AWG for a short installation since the cost diff is small. Though I have a spool of stranded 12 AWG and will use it if OK. I do not have an OTT installed Zamp port, so I am going to use the rear opening that was designed for RV-park cable TV connection. It has a 1/2" hole and this CNLINKO requires a 3/4" opening. I have a good 3/4" bit but will wait until I receive this CNLINKO device to determine its feasibility and quality. The only issue I foresee is this housing is very small. It will not cover the original 4 screw holes. In my case the outlet removed was 2x2" and this one is only 30mm approx. 1.2". A cover plate could be used or perhaps this CNLINKO outlet could be built into your Zamp housing. I will fill the old screw holes and given the less-obvious location behind the rear bumper likely call it good. Can anybody suggest a good product to fill screw holes in fiberglass? I've never been or wanted to be the body shop guy!

Tire Pressure and make sure your shocks are in good shape. I have found that most appliances in the OTT to be 'Metric threading', that is important when buying/replacing lost bolts/nuts. B~Out

I actually bought these and returned them prior to buying the Furrion solar ports. Although these flush mount AP ports came with a rubber protective cap for a water tight seal when not in use, there was no moisture protection when in use. The Cnlinko connectors are said to be waterproof and the Furrion lid will further aid in shedding water.

I bought two of the Furrion 10A Solar Charge power ports with the Cnlinko plugs last year in anticipation of future portable solar panel usage. Since the wires are 10 AWG on these ports, why only a 10A rating for this Furrion/Cnlinko combo? Can you state the total watts of your suitcase setup, I’m looking at the Renogy 400W Lightweight Portable and would like to make use of these ports if possible. Thanks.

I think that is all you need (up to 400W), it would work perfectly. Have you ever looked at Goal Zero products. Worth a gander.

We have had the set screws on the stainless railing between the dinette and the bed work themselves loose early-on. Also solved by Loc-Tite; hasn't happened since. We have an LE. I don't believe the LE-II model has that railing... the pantry is there instead.

A very good question.

Thanks @Rolind, @mountainoliver and @rideandfly. I ran a test today. Ran the old dog Dometic 13.5 Penguin II at the heat of the day on inverter only for 3:15 hours, thermostat set at 78 and the high today was 94. The 600AH new Epoch batteries got down to 27% SOC. Turned the MP2 inverter off at 3PM. It's now 5:20, using only the 340W rooftop solar and the Blue Sky SC, SOC is now 32%. Not much gain. I want to let it sit rooftop solar only until say 2PM tomorrow to see what it gets up to. We don't summer camp so normally we'd only run A/C late afternoon anyway. Also, the plan is to very soon replace the Dometic. The new Atmos runs on half the power, show upon efficient A/C upgrade I should get twice the runtime. Today the PII A/C was using between 1600-1800W for 3:15 hours. The basement area under the streetside bed is where the Blue Sky was installed and also where I installed the Victron MP2 inverter. The VE.Bus Bluetooth controller mounted close to the Blue Sky read 103 degrees. I installed a Beech Lane dual fan in there, but it was off. I turned it on, and temp dropped 8-10 degrees. The MP2 was warm/hot as I could put the palm of my hand on it fully. The Blue Sky SC was VERY hot, could not place my palm on it for long. I don't think it even has a vent. I think I should get the Victron 30A for a new suitcase and perhaps later buy another one to replace the Blue Sky when it burns up! @mountainoliver, I was looking at Anderson Powerpole connectors, had already rulled out the Zamp/SAE style. I'm going to check into CNLINKO. Good idea to shorten that distance. I'm definitely going with a MPPT SC installed interior.

@Mike Spies The Oliver Owners FB page is also a great source of info if you do social media. Often solutions to problems have already been addressed which you can easily find with the search function. The Mods have always been helpful and there is always a chance you might link up with another Oliver owner who lives near you. Onward!🇺🇸

Thanks for sharing this. This is on our list of planned upgrades.

Our solar suitcase system has evolved over the years. Using a solar suitcase panel is about using storage space efficiently for transport and ease of use with the panel or panels. Use three 12' sections combined of 10/2 solar panel cable when Ollie is parked in the shade when reaching out from the shade to sunshine. Normally we can get away with using one Renogy 100W solar suitcase, but we only use one 100AH Battleborn Lithium battery and don't have a 12V/120V inverter. See around 6A charge with a PMW controller mounted close to the battery on a good solar day. Have seen around 11A charge with two 100W solar suitcases, using a MPPT solar controller mounted close to the battery with solar panels connected in series using 36" of 10/2 cable. Posted this in other threads. Originally installed a 10A Furrion solar port that was OK with one 100W solar panel, but wanted a 20A solar port for a higher capacity port. Since I already drilled the hole in Ollie for the Furrion port, decided to modify the Furrion port by installing a Zamp 20A port in the existing Furrion port. Also drilled four through holes to mount the Furrion port with an interior backing plate and locknuts to reduce the stress on the fiberglass. Furrion Solar port installation: Modifided Furrion Solar port by installing 20A Zamp port in the Furrion port:

The Hughes Watchdog EPO is a great unit. One thing to consider if you're also using a Hughes Autoformer is that the EPO unit should be installed downstream of the Autoformer. If not, when voltage drops to 104 volts the EPO will cut off power completely and and the Autoformer won't be able to do it's job of boosting voltage 10% and keeping it at a safe level. Ask me how I know!😄

You can click the word quote, hit the + sign to the left of the word for a multi-quote. You can highlight a portion of a post and click "Quote Selection. Or just type the ampersand character and start typing the forum member's name like I'm doing here with your name: @trekhard You should get two notifications from my message, one for quoting you and another for the mention using your forum name (alias).

So far I've made it my practice to test the plug prior to connecting the camper and rely on the onboard progressive unit to do it's job. I can see the interest some have in protecting the hard wired device, and have purchased a portable device but just haven't put it to use. I purchased a Progressive Industries circuit tester before getting the Oliver. I leave it in the same tote that I store the shore power cord in. Step one - Test the power supply. Step two - If good, drag out the cord and connect. Circuit Tester