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Only to meet up with you Steve! Last Jan, given my work schedule and me being new here, I got to Quartzsite the last day you and @Mike and Carol were there (learned this from a later post) and the next day I drove by some "Fiberglass TT Meet" 🤣 Only to find a lot of lame Casita type TTs. Chris and I kept our heads down and quickly thought, let's "Get out of Dodge!" After a night in the northern section of the AZ BLM LTVA, we headed to Wickenburg for much better boondocking by Vulture Mountain and to enjoy a good restaurant that cannot be found in Quartzsite. We should meet up next year. @rich.dev unless you're into large communal camps, thousands of Canadians (wonderful people and country, but who in their right mind would live up there in the winter!), the hippies we knew back in the 70s and the near homeless yep, Quartzsite is the place! If you have 2 months, first come to Prescott and you'll never want to go back to the Q. I already mentioned Wickenburg. Stay at ANY off the Maricopa County parks. Go to Parker AZ and stay at Buckskin Mountain State Park | Arizona (azstateparks.com) Need dental work? Visit Los Algodones and you can stay here for $10 a night: Home - Quechan Casino Resort (playqcr.com) while you visit Mexico (this border is still safe). I can go on and on for days. Yep, Quartzsite is cool if you want to stay for weeks, have an off-grid setup, meet up with old friends that you met there years ago, but instead you can spend time ANYWHERE else in the wonderful state off Arizona. In four weeks, we are going to have a visit from an Oliver owner. We have never met another Oliver owner. So much looking forward to this visit and y'all are welcome too!

The wet bolt is only pressed into the shackle strap. I don't have a hydraulic press either but I do have a vise and a big ole hammer. Remove the zerk fitting from the end and drop it into the shackle strap orienting the grease exit hole 90 degrees to the strap. Loosely clamp the bolt into the vise and using your big ole hammer tap it down until the backside of the bolt head makes solid contact with the strap. Replace the zerk, or leave it out for now because you're probably gonna have to hit it again to make the shoulder seat against the strap on the other side. DO NOT use tightening the nut in an effort to pull it into place, you will only strip the nut and could damage the threads on the bolt. FYI: In American English, a vice is an immoral habit or practice (or the second in command after the President) and a vise is a tool with closable jaws for clamping things. But in British English, the tool is spelled like the sin: vice.

In other words, just hook up a hose to the boondocking inlet, and then I would run the pump to allow it to prime and take over. This happens to too many Oliver owners. Many can benefit from upgrading your water pump and valves. I replaced the $50 Made in Mexico Shurflo, spending $200+ on a Made in USA Remco variable speed pump. Also changed the manual valves that had 1/4" ID openings with electric ball valves with 12mm (.47") ID. I have the pump running when I change the valves (they're wired on the same circuit), no issues. We use the water at night with the pump off, no issues. We have the OTT OEM defective Fresh Tank suction hose. that was installed on some old hulls, where it runs out of fresh water after 18 gallons. We run out of water often, filling from the boondocking port, no issues. The high-quality variable speed pump always primes itself, no air locks ever. See before and after pics.

Hi all, I have a tight parking spot next to the garage and thought a front mounted hitch would make it easier to maneuver the trailer into the spot. E-trailer has one that would fit my 2017 Ford Expedition EL, but the specs say it's only good for 500 pounds of vertical force. If anyone uses a front hitch, what did you do to make it work? Thanks

I have been buying Calgon beads on Amazon-along with the pinesol this works great. I mix up a gallon before a long trip

Darth Vader's RV. Although interesting to look at, I would never own a black RV. They're just not practical on hot, sunny days.

Hate to veer more off topic, but here's another cool pic of a black LE on that page. http://oliver.hewus.com/Trailer/Other_Trailers/Misc_Olivers/P1040468.JPG.html

I figured that you would know the story behind it! Another cool find on that same page are pics of Jim Oliver's first LE2. Was surprised to see that it had 4 leaf springs, at least at that point... http://oliver.hewus.com/Trailer/Other_Trailers/The_first_22_foot_Oliver

This trailer is Hull #004 and was the second 2008 Elite sold. The trailer went to two partners Andrew and Lisa in Lake Havasu City, AZ where Jim and Evon Oliver have a home. The drawers were not original to the trailer at the time of delivery. Jim had a 2008 trailer built for himself, Hull #030 and had his son Daniel design and build some under belly drawers for extra cargo. It appears that these are copies Oliver built for this trailer. After Jim had Hull # 046 "The Beast" built (originally designated a 22 footer, but now identifies as an Elite II 23-1/2 footer) he had larger under belly drawers added to it. My old records show that this was the only trailer built and labeled as a 2010 model, but I believe I remember @CRM stating his was sold as a 2010 model. All this was happening either during or after Oliver officially stopped trailer production in 2009, so this information was gathered during hectic times and is unclear and subject to error. As far as I know these were the only examples of trailers with the exterior drawers. If anyone knows of others let me know, I'll add this to my master list of Oliver Ephemera.

Have had mine for over a year and love it. You are correct in that it makes greasing our zerks much easier. GJ

This was suggested to us by the guys who were professionally cleaning tanks at the rally.

Nice! It got jammed up pretty quickly! Thanks for the ideas and the pics 🙂

Furnace, did not see any blockages. But…. I turned it on this am with one diverter removed and no error code! I will keep an eye on it.

Yeah, definitely not considering one behind the rear axle, though I think I could get away with one in front of the front axle where it would be close to the same level as the bottom of the axle itself. It's pretty obvious this LE was raised a little higher than factory and probably doesn't have the same clearance issues a rear mounted box could have on ours. .

Just got this today and it looks great. Thanks to those who suggested it! amazon.com/dp/B00H7LPKKU?ref=fed_asin_title

My grease gun, assorted accessories, extra tubes of grease, paper towels and disposable gloves are neatly stowed in a kitchen garbage bag (flat) in a plastic crate in the bed of the truck, because I could imagine the mess. My trips are long distance (partly because I live so far south) so I will always carry my grease gun along. I will look at these when I get home (another 2 months!) and I appreciate the suggestions from everyone here.

Sounds cool. Don't suppose you have photos? 😉

Love you, Steve! No wonder your 3500HD and Oliver are upgraded to carry 18,000+ combined GVWR! 🤣

Bite the bullet, and buy the one with the charger, battery and case. Especially if you plan to carry it with you on trips. Exchange the coupler for a LockNLube and you are better than good to go. All neat and tidy in a case that won't allow the grease that will inevitably ooze out, collect dirt to get onto everything else you will be carrying. This would not be an issue if all your trips are short and you're always back home before it's time to grease up again. Our average trip is >5K miles, so our GG usually makes the trip with us.

@Boudicca908 I invested in a Milwaukee a M12 drill/driver about 6 years ago and I have added about 6 additional tools from the M12 family. I usually just buy the bare tools because I don’t need any more chargers. I buy from who ever has the best price which is typically Home Depot around Black Friday when they usually have the best prices on tools and batteries. I will admit that when I see the battery powered grease gun sitting on the shelf, I think that it was a waste of money! When I get on a creeper and scoot under the Ollie and grease the zerks, I think that it maybe the best tool I ever invested in. Mossey

Yes -- I now have both 1/4" and 5/16" wrenches. Plus I purchased a socket and a short-handled driver in order to access the zerks that are hidden 'around the corner' (not accessible with a regular wrench). I have two different sizes, because the existing zerks need 5/16" -- but the replacements need 1/4" (the head -- or would you call that a nut -- is different). These tools fit -- we tested them. The threads are all "28".

I use the "Collar" parked or driving. The chains are locked up when parked. I use the "Proven Industries Hitch Lock" I would like to replace the Puck lock that came with it with a Conical Puck lock so it can't be drilled out. I also have a 6 foot Abus hardened chain that I put through the Rims on one side when parked. Everywhere the I need a paddle lock I have used a 3/8 Abus granite harden lock and all locks are keyed a like. They are difficult to pick, and break. I know this may be overkill and nothing is fool proof, but the more difficult to steal, greater chance they will move on to an easier target. When the truck is attached, I have an Alarm system, and a way to keep from the truck from starting. A good thief can steal the Ford 7.3 super duty trucks in under 30 seconds. If the Oliver is attached and you are in a store you could lose everything. I am sure there are other tow vehicles that are just as vulnerable.

This would be unacceptable to me. When I decide I want/need something, I want it today or, at most, Amazon Prime quick. While installing our Alcan Springs, I discovered that two of my last set of Monroe's (bought from Amazon, about $40 each) had lasted less than two years. Needing to replace them that day, I went in search of a new set. I was unable to locate a full set locally but O'Reilly Auto Parts told me they could have a full set by the next morning. I decided that was quick enough. The only downside was they were about $60 each. After checking with Oliver, I was told that they charge $68 each, so I figured that was OK. When I went to pick them up the next day, I was pleasantly surprised to learn that a life time replacement warranty was included in the price. It is available to the Original purchaser as long as they own the vehicle. Additionally, you do not have to keep up with your receipt or proof of purchase if you have a (free) online account with them. Just bring the old shock back and it is replaced at no cost. I called around to the other local auto part players and they all stated the warranty was the Monroe provided two years.