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The lack of light in the pantry has always bugged me. I suppose if you’re a weekend warrior and only have a can of beans, burger buns, and a bag of marshmallows in the pantry it’s fine as it is. Since we pretty much live in our Oliver for three months at a shot - and we like interesting food - then finding anything in a fairly well-stocked pantry with no light - is a challenge. Initially, I was using a little “Nebo” LED light that you can get from most hardware stores. It has a motion-sensing feature that is an improvement. I’m still using one of these in the Norcold fridge. One night, I saw the light in the pantry was coming on without the door being opened. Not sure why, but I think the passive infrared sensor was picking up movement -through- the pantry door or wall. Still dunno why. At any rate, I found another solution that’s been working well and isn’t subject to being triggered by things moving in the pantry as you drive or other false movement. Amagle 4 Pack Door Open Automatic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NVCJLF5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share These are inexpensive enough to not fret over if they don’t work or if one quits on you. The only real challenge - after trying to figure out the best location(s) - is to line up the magnet with the sensor on the light. Due to the design of the door - and without wanting to design and make custom spacers - you need to mount the magnet close enough to shut the light off when the door is closed. I used a dry erase marker and Post-It flags to help me do this. Below are a couple of pictures that (hopefully) give you a hint where to mount the magnets once you choose where you want the lights. I placed two in my pantry, but I may go to three or even four. You’ll need to mount the lights as close to the edge as f the pantry opening as possible. Magnets need to be set back away from the edge if the door to clear the frame opening. Reviews on Amazon state that the foam tape supplied is too weak. They’re correct. I replaced mine with 3M “Command” foam mounting tape as I like the option of not leaving goopy adhesive behind if I change my mind. Finally - since you can’t tell if the light(s) are shutting off when the door is closed, I used my iPhone video camera to monitor it - and verified they DO turn off when I shut the door. (You could also do that with your home fridge if you’ve always been curious if that light turns off!) (I’d show more pics - but my pantry’s a bit of a mess at the moment…)

I will just add my experience with the long black tank cable. It is very easy to lube. Loosen the set screw on top of the black tank valve and the cable easily pulls out. Wipe down with your preferred lube/grease and it goes back in as easy as it came out. Tighten down the set screw and you’re done. I’ve done this 3 times over the years since 2016. A shorter cable run would probably be better and an electric valve better as well, but the current set up has been fine considering how many times we’ve dumped! Mike

Here ya' go! https://pebblelife.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAwaG9BhAREiwAdhv6Y1nfr4vhcwlGralq6abgET5Pw27r1LfENSEXaE_3xUXrZYcRA21KLhoChccQAvD_BwE

I'll close this topic with the following update: We used the EZ Pass that we ordered through the mail via the NY Tollway Authority website. We mounted and activated the transponder when we crossed in the US from Canada at Toronto/Buffalo and it worked like a champ all through the eastern states and Florida. We never had to worry about the trailer as all the drive thru sites correctly tolled our setup. Now that we're back on the west coast...not sure what to do with the Transponder. We probably need to de-register or something as we'll not be using it for quite a while. Craig Short Hull 505

Yes, I thought about replacing both. The guy I spoke to at Oliver Service said “there’s not enough room to replace the grey tank valve”. Whether that’s true or not I haven’t verified. Based on the size of the electric black tank valve compared to the cable operated one - I’m skeptical. The electric one doesn’t seem to be much - if any - larger. At least not in overall length. Then again, it might be chunkier/bulkier close to the pipe where the motor/gearbox are. Anyway, I’m not looking to replace things just for the sake of it. I felt the electric valve for the black tank is better than fussing with and nursing the cable as it was getting worse and worse. So long as the grey tank valve behaves, I’ll keep it simple. If and when you take a look at it JD - let us know if it looks like the electric valve will fit or not. V

Bought something like this when we had a fifth wheel, to help me reach into the bed while hooking up: Heavy Duty Tire Step https://a.co/d/5vK6ftR.

I have the NC EZ Pass transponder and my license plate of the truck and trailer is listed with the NC toll people. In our travel through varying states they usually just count the axles. Be aware though the cost is state dependant and in states like NC the cost of 4 axles is not 2x the cost of the truck alone. It is 4x. I try to avoid NC toll roads which is not too much of a problem. It is best to look up the toll roads by state and see what classification they have for number of axles (and sometimes height, WV comes to mind) and how it impacts the rate you will pay. WV was fairly inexpensive as tolls go.

I think I have the unit installed and wired correctly...the TV B+ through a resettable fuse to an Andersen connector at the rear of the truck. TV B- from truck frame to same andersen connector. Then the other half of the Andersen connector + to + "input" on the Victron charger and - to the - "input". Then on the "output" side of the Victron charger + goes through another fuse to the trailer B+ bus and then the - "output'" side of the Victron to the trailer B- bus. So "input" from my truck and "output" to the Oliver...right? The Andersen connector is disconnected at this stage. The Victron charger does not indicate power via the blue bluetooth light on the charger. Does the TV need to be hooked up to power the charger or should the trailer batteries be able to power the charger? The remote on/off link ( a small plug ) is not installed at the moment as instructions say to leave out until configuration is compete. Not at all electrical savy here but can follow directions :) Any help is much appreciated! John

When doing hook-ups or departures from camp, I regularly find myself in need of water pump pliers to tighten and loosen water lines. . . which means digging out the tool box to find them. So I decided to mount a dedicated pair in the outdoor garage where they will be close at hand when needed. After looking at various options for storing the pliers, I settled on a small leather tool pouch from Amazon. It was low profile, could be easily mounted on the wall, and it didn’t take up precious garage floor space. The pouch also had pockets for a small flashlight and pen, which also can also be elusive items when signing in after dark. The tool pouch had a belt clip that was removed, and I stretched one of the pockets to fit my LED penlight. The leather is easily stretched by soaking it in water for about 60 seconds and using a dowel or other cylindrical object to expand the pocket. The leather is quickly dried in an oven at 130 degrees to hold the new shape. I chose a 7” Knipex Plier Wrench for my kit because of its high quality. They aren’t cheap, but the Oliver is deserving, and they are a pleasure to use. There are many excellent choices available for pliers, flashlights and pens. I just used what I already had on hand. Some folks might also be interested in my handy tool for stashing and retrieving things from the unreachable depths of the garage. This is simply a sanded length of 1/2” x 3/4” moulding with an aluminum angle screwed onto one end as a hook to pull things out. Oh, and notice the spring to pull the garage door suspension cable out of the way so it doesn’t get pinched in the seal like mine does. Hope you find this useful! Cheers! Geoff

Excellent! Looks like it works different than their MPPT chargers. Good to know. Wondering, does it go blank again when you disconnect? And let us know re its performance after your next leg of travel. 😂

We have the "I" Pass for Illinois, and the Midwest, includes Kentucky, out to Kansas. We also have the Texas Pass. While prefering back roads, many times camper is at the campground and travel is quicker on the roll roads around Texas. While I grew up with the Tri-State toll road and the I-80 toll road in Northern Indiana, I can also remember the long lines to toss coins into the basket. I would much prefer the electronic reading as I drive under the sensor than getting a bunch of written statements. They replenish our balance and I can review charges on the computer when I get home. I would prefer an extra 14-20 minutes on the Tri-State, I-294, than driving the Dan Ryan through the heart of Chicago, and especially towing the trailer.🙃 Have the

Our 2019 Tundra takes less maintenance than my wife's sewing machines!

Thanks for posting this and sharing the link. Interesting that the engine is not even connected to the drivetrain - it only functions as an on-board charger for the battery. In tow-mode, it comes on earlier to keep the batteries at a higher charge to make sure there is sufficient power for a significant incline. I tow in Colorado, so performance up and down the steep mountain passes is essential. From my reading, it’s designed to take full advantage of re-charging while on the long downhill runs. Seems there would be a number of potential advantages of this approach, not the least would be huge battery capacity available to supply the trailer if needed. Not sure I would be one of the early-adopters for a first model-year — but definitely of interest to watch!

JD, I haven’t even looked at the grey valve or where it’s located, so you’re a leg up on me on that subject. From your pic, it sure looks shoehorned in there! I don’t relish the thought of having to replace it. Why doesn’t OTT replace the black tank valve with another cable-operated one vs an electric one? My wild guess would be that they know that the one with the l-o-n-g cable is prone to failure and that an electric one would be the better option. (That they should have at least offered as an option up front!) Yours lasted ten years - mine was showing signs of total failure after only two years - in spite of babying it and using valve lubricants and making sure never to let crud dry in it. Long push-pull cables are asking for trouble - especially when throwing a couple of 90 degree bends into them. Yes, several folks said “Lube the cable!” - but that’s considerably easier said than -effectively- done. Unlike brake, throttle, and clutch cables on motorcycles, there’s no tool that you can clamp around one end of the cable and force appropriate lube through the cable under pressure. (I’ve used those on bikes - and even they are only marginally effective.) Without taking the whole cable out of the sheath and manually greasing it up, you’re just throwing oil at the ends of the cable -hoping- it will work its way to the area that needs it. I had a similar issue with the transmission cable on our sailboat. It “pushed” smooth as silk, but the “pull” bound up and locked up solid. My theory is that when pulling around those two 90 degree bends, the cable cuts into the sheath and digs into the worn area - likely cutting through the low-friction surface inside the sheath. No lube is gonna fix that for long and you’re going to have a problem eventually. Easing the radii on both ends of the black tank dump valve vocable helped a bit - but the problem was soon coming back and no further easing of the bends was possible. Hence, electric valve. I ran into another Ollie owner with a very low hull number a few weeks ago. He shared that he added another manual valve inside the rear bumper, so that if he had a valve leak or failure, he didn’t get a urine bath when popping the cap off. I don’t think I’d do that as in a pinch you can just drop the nose of the trailer fully and gravity will do the job for you. Anyway, with the considerable shorter cable run, the grey tank dump valve is fine and hopefully will stay that way for as long as yours has.

Beautiful truck will be here soon. Sounds awesome on paper but as you stated the range would be cut in half towing, from what I understand. Hybrid tech is enticing but personally will hold out for full electric with longer tow range. We will get there one day when there is a large enough battery bank on the TT for highway range assist. Power assist and brake regeneration if it has its own electric motors powering the wheels, as well. Then we can get out and park it with an app on the iPhone or better yet it will park itself using AI and cameras! Awesome specs: The Ramcharger has a 3.6L V6 engine and a 92-kilowatt-hour battery pack. Over 600 HP and torque. Tows 15k pounds! It also has a 130-kilowatt generator on board. The Ramcharger has a dual-motor, all-wheel-drive system. The Ramcharger has a payload capacity of 2,625 pounds. The Ramcharger has a 0-60 time of 4.4 seconds. The Ramcharger has a four-corner active leveling air suspension system. WOW! The RAM hybrid is awesome. The future is interesting and the truck is very cool but the range limitations and cost will have me sitting on the sideline watching. I have a 2016 Tundra with 145K miles on it and after 9 years of towing with it, it is still running like a sewing machine. Now that is value to me. Hope for 145K more. Took me this long to do all the upgrade to it. Ha

Your sited article makes this vehicle sound as if it’s still in development. Is it currently on the market? I can’t imagine us ever owning something like this. I like our big ole honkin’ truck just like she is.

Done what Art @MAX Burner suggested, for decades, stepping on the tire to get up in the bed. Taller tires and getting older makes this not quite as easy as it used to be! I always have a metal milk crate in my truck bed to assist. But thank you Step & Dud! I should get one of these for working in the engine bay of a truck! The milk crate can slip when leaning forward and this looks to be taller, a better height.

Just in case ! I will mention this you should be in close proximity to the batteries and the batteries need to be turned on or the APP cannot connect to the batteries with batteries turned on and you phone within say 15 feet distance open Lithionics APP and allow it to search for the batteries It takes a few minutes the first time you do it after the APP searches and finds the batteries then you will put in the password this is how it worked for me (using the owner’s manual for instructions) then , using the serial number on the actual batteries match it to the serial number on the APP and you can mark the batteries with a sharpie 1,2,3 this way in the future you know which one is which !

Hoping you do your list again. Great having other owners site info. Always appreciate your time doing that😊👍

@SolitaryPine -- Welcome aboard, Paul! Greetings from Hull #226, Casablanca - we're just a few hours south of y'all on I-25 in North Central NM....

I find myself stepping up on the top of the rear wheels to grab stuff from the front of the truck bed -- I'm getting a wee bit "long in the tooth" for those operations, and may need to get a hoe, I'll check with D and see what she thinks.... HA!

Things have a bad habit of sliding to the front of our truck bed, under the hard tonneau cover and out of reach. This hook works great. scottchen PRO RV Awning Rod Opener Easy Reach Telescopic Puller 13-3/4" to 44-3/4" Stainless Steel Silver & Black - 1pack https://a.co/d/aQmHp1H

Your working too hard 😊. We have been using eley hose quick connects for several years and they have served us well and do not leak. A quick and simple way to hook up our water hose sans pliers. https://www.eleyhosereels.com/products/garden-hose-quick-connectors?srsltid=AfmBOorhl73lbWlG-pTRQ_aHjougxYv88x-aD4DfsGjJACCyuZjoAX0t More info here -

You mean that you simply can't craw in there to get what you want?😁