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Sparse cell coverage was my primary reason for buying Starlink last year. I wanted to be able to contact someone if I needed help, and I found a lot of areas without any cell coverage, even within 5 miles of nice sized towns in Utah. It was great for security, but expensive considering I don't watch television or stream videos or anything; I used it for checking email, making phone calls and communications via Winlink (digital ham radio software). At the time, the 'standard' size was the only option. I developed my own method of 'stowing' the unit when under way -- securing the router and loosely coiled cables in a med sized plastic case with a lid, and tucking the dishy under the comforter on my bed. Never had an issue with it moving around under towing. I never left it outdoors if I wasn't there. I used the 'cord out the window' method to deploy it, choosing the best window location for access to open northern skyline. Once you use it a few times, you will know what clearances you need from trees and other potential blockage that could interrupt your signal (and it doesn't like any blockage in the signal). Since I want it for security, I never paused (you pause for a month at a time). I'm looking forward to the better price point of the mini for my camping, and probably leaving the standard with my brother -- he can use it for internet if systems are taken out by a hurricane or other issues. EDIT: Here is the link to the Starlink Resellers -- a lot more than I expected. https://www.starlink.com/support/article/9b7746f8-e2ee-0fd4-7ffb-3bbe0ab35cbc

Scott Oliver's design is amazingly effective in giving us a very safe towing trailer. Heavy, compact, non-swaying, a shape that reduces side loading of gusts, tandem axle, four shocks, EZ flex, the strongest frame of any trailer in this weight class, E-rated tires, and the Anderson Hitch transferring weight forward for those that need it and an extra long tongue. The amazing part is the design. Even more amazing is that it is Stock on all our trailers. GJ

Great idea. I've used Winlink via VARA HF when the "shack" is operational. I think the idea of direct web interface will be useful for Winlink

Pete, I believe it must be outside. The technology does not use radio waves that follow the curvature of the earth, etc.. Instead, think of microwaves that are directional, "line-of-sight." This is why trees are an issue, like the upper shells of the Oliver would be.

I mentioned this portable mount/protective case early on in this thread. After using it last fall on our 48 day trip out west we were really glad to have it. Besides being built to withstand storage travel and use, it gives a little added weight for stability which was welcome and important on windy days. In our field use, we never found a reason to secure the Mini in one location such as a roof top of a TV or the Oliver. For best satellite connectivity you must have clear northern exposure with little to no obstructions. Some campsites you get lucky and can deploy on a table while others your usually deploying on the ground. We prefer no trees especially sappy pine trees. The optional handle to carry the Mini was a good addition and adds an anchor point if we needed to secure it on a picnic table on windy days with a small bungee cord. When does the wind and dust not blow out west? 😄 Camp On! 🇺🇸🇺🇸 https://www.strikerfab.com/products/starlink-mini-mount-for-overlanding-van-rv-boat-sxs-starlink-mounting-options A Frosty 30 degree morning while camped at Fishing Bridge in Yellowstone.

Steve has a reasonable question about why there is any liquid in the fresh tank at all. Best to have no fluids there at all . . . nothing to freeze. About the slow drainage, well yeah, you do have a tiny drain pipe exiting the trailer from the fresh water tank. The tank is many feet long, but only several inches tall. Not a lot of pressure in the line is available from this configuration, resulting in a puny discharge rate when the trailer is perfectly level. To fix this, raise the nose of the trailer as high as possible, thus giving more depth to the column of water and resulting in a higher pressure at the discharge port and a higher flow rate. It will still take a bit of time, but not as bad as a perfectly level unit. As Steve states, opening the drain while driving is a good tactic, but be prepared for all of the folks passing you, honking and pointing to the back of your trailer as the tank empties. Ha! Good luck.

Hull 292 2017 Trailer was bought new in 2018. AGMs are not holding a charge. Amazon has a 4 pack of 140amp Redodo Bluetooth batteries for $999. They have 150amp BMS, Low and High Temp cut off. Have any of you gotten Redodo Batteries? Is there another similar priced Battery that is better? What else would I need to get/change/? If I get these. I’ve read a lot of great info on what other owners have done and Much of it is way over my head. Would like to get this done before I head to the April Ollie Rally. Or should I wait and have it done by someone smarter than me? I have the 2000 watt Xantrex Power Inverter and a 180 watt Zamp Portable Solar Panels & External Solar Port. Thanks for your suggestions. Gary

Hi Gary, I would also add that you'd probably be better off buying 2 batteries instead of 4. Less complexity with cabling/connections and larger batteries usually have a better BMS.

Gary, I have not heard of anybody buying this brand on this forum. Epoch and LiTime are go-to brands. LiTime is also on Amazon. Found these listed on Amazon and these are LiFePO4 batteries. Besides battery replacement, you may need batteries cables or new ends/lugs. You would also need to reprogram your solar charger and perhaps replace the main charger connected to shore power, given age of hull could be an inexpensive Progressive Dynamics charger. If instead your Xantrex is an inverter/charger then program that instead. it is a bit of Work. OTT would charge a lot for this. Given your FL location you likely have many solar companies in the neighborhood who could do this work. Easy would be to replace with same size and quantity AGM batteries, nothing else required, but we are all moving to liFePO4 batteries!

Flooded Lead Acid (FLA) starter batteries usually employ maintenance-free designs. But FLA deep cycle batteries require regular maintenance to each of their cells. The plug you are showing typically serves as a vent path. They are not intended for service, but on many battery's they can be removed for adding DI as you suggested. The question is does this vent provide a pathway that DI will flow equally to all the individual cells? Regardless, doing so can be very dangerous. A small droplet of sulfuric acid splashed out of the battery can easily blind and/or disfigure. Personally IF it were mine, I would not even consider trying to refill these batteries. Just not worth the risk. Especially since they are 5 years old. Bad news you need new batteries. Good news is you need new batteries, and it is a perfect time to upgrade to Lithium. See JD's and several other posts on DIY battery upgrades. Good luck, GJ

We split the permanent mattress in the rear to create a single twin. The other half of the original mattress can still be used to setup a full size bed. We had new cushions made to fill in the vacated space. We are using the side dinette for the other single twin bed, including a mattress topper. We have not implemented the swivel table at this time.

I have not tried deploying the Mini inside our Oliver. When I deploy it outside the operating system requires a quick scan of the sky to locate satellites holding your iPhone up in the air in a scanning motion. This scan allows me to see how good or bad the Mini connectivity is by identifying the satellites via your phone and whether or not you have limited or slower service due to obstructions. I do know that the Mini will work through a truck wind shield or sun roof as long as you have good northern exposure with little to no obstructions. The key to the mini operating at its peak connectivity is no obstructions. My final thought is that it might be a real challenge to get useful connectivity with the mini from inside the Oliver. As this reviewer says, consider the SL signal as a beam of light, if it’s blocked it won’t work. A decent video of a Mini set up and around the 8:10 min mark you will see how this reviewer scans the sky for satellite reception.

The "windy season" is starting soon! 🤣 Yes, it can be windy out west anytime and often, but you can count on it Q2 of the year (Apr-Jun). The wind makes things dry out and by June there are usually fires somewhere. Late July through early Sept is monsoon season, some break in the winds, patchy rains and you hope a monsoon or two hits your property to water the trees! We moved out here from VA leaving end of June 2005 (20th anniversary)! We thought New Mexico was the worst as far as being WINDY. We had all our family belongings packed tight in a 26' "race car trailer" purchased just for the move, pulled by a brand-new Ram 2500 HD. The trailer had an awning. The NM winds in the open valleys, known for their dust storms, blew the awning wide open. It was like we had a sail attached to the trailer, pushing us down the highway! I had to tie it up to finish the trip, then rewound it when we got here in Arizona. Thanks @Patriot for first starting this thread, bringing the Mini with the $50 plan to our attention. I had remembered that you purchased a carry case. I did not realize it had an aluminum frame, made in the USA, add-on features like magnet mounts, etc. I need to look at this seriously vs. the Trio product I mentioned. Has anybody purchased the "Polycarbonate Shield" (both companies offer one)? Instead of storing the mini in a case, I want ours magnet-mounted to the roof of our tow vehicle when driving (then you don't need room somewhere else to store it and you could hook up to Wi-Fi when needed while driving). The shield may help with the pine sap too. Thanks again. JD

Certainly do these things. You may also find lifting the front helps at the dump station! When you blow out the drain (30-50 PSI is good), ALSO blow out the overflow which is under the fridge (only do this when the drain is open). A restricted overflow will impede draining, even if the drain is wide open! Learned this in high school chemistry class. 🤣 And you could use that compressed air to blow out the lines and forget about using antifreeze at all. If OTT in a video actually said to leave the fresh tank half full over winter!?! Please ignore that odd comment! Your manual drain valve has a 3/8” opening in a 1/2” PEX plumbing system. I replaced this valve with an electric motorized valve with a 12mm opening (near 1/2”). My tank now drains twice as fast! I often open the drain while on the road driving home, but don’t do this in prissy locations and those with an abundance of police officers! 🤣

The FWT drain is at best slow draining given the design constraints of the system. One issue that can make it much worse is when bits of plastic end up inside the tank from drilling the various holes and not meticulously cleaning it out before installing. I have had these bits bunch up at the tank outlet and at the drain valve. When I added my new water supply draw tube, I cleaned and vacuumed out the tank best I could, and cleaned out the drain valve while I was in there as well. Now, not really wanting to go through that all over again, if it seems plugged up, I'll take my air compressor and blow up the outflow tube (30psi is good) into the tank. This usually clears the occlusions long enough to let the tank drain more normally, which is still slower than I'd like. Hope that works for you. Dave

I wondered why there was water in the fresh tank if it was winterized also. I think the OP may be flushing the small amount of rv antifreeze out of the lines and freshwater tank when dewinterizing. I usually do with the fresh water drain open, and even if you fill the tank up a little bit, it takes a while to drain. That would also explain why the OP states it isn’t allowed at the campground. I usually don’t worry about the small amount of rv antifreeze draining onto the campsite. It’s mostly alcohol and just like breaking a good bottle of bourbon at the campsite wo the profanity.

Open the drain while driving to your destination. But why does your fresh water tank have any water in it if it’s supposed to be winterized?

After reading all of the positive comments about using the SL Mini, Bosker insisted we up our game. We now have one, with a waterproof case, the Anker Prime Power Bank, an extra 50' power cord for the mini for when the Bison chomps the old one, and a USBC to DC5521 adapter cord. Bosker and I are ready to rock-n-roll, with continual connectivity this summer, on our trip from Texas to Yellowknife, NWT, Canada!! (according to SL, Yellowknife has connectivity all way up there at 62.4N) Thanks, everyone, for blazing this trail and informing the Ollie family about this great accessory.

I now carry this instead of the low-profile aluminum floor jack; much safer, easier to handle and takes up less space!

We love Elon Musk in our family and before this year, I was never interested in an EV or even wanting a Starlink connection. TOTAL respect of this great American! His products are the most forward-thinking products of the 21st Century (Tesla, SpaceX, AI, his work in healthcare, etc.) OMG! Besides, who else do you know, on planet Earth or Mars, who measures 99.999% right-of-bell-curve in intelligence, with engineering and business sense? He's also good person, soft-spoken and humble. He who just rescued two NASA astronauts, left stranded by .gov! Those who protest, speak to the contrary, are very wrong. He's respectful of others at all levels and wanting the American dream he achieved for all Americans.

Starlink just announced a new $10 for 10GB monthly plan for those that only need it for sporadic use. Data over 10GB at $2 per GB. Only good for an existing user so a new activation would have to be on the $50 plan and then switch to the $10 plan on month two. This is what I plan to do as camping season is about to start here in CO. https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/starlink-adds-cheapest-roam-plan-to-date-10gb-for-10/

We have been thinking about the standard SL for our home…so thanks for this news. As for travel we really are happy with the Mini for so many reasons especially small size and portability.

I checked on this and found the special pricing to be for the Standard kit for Residential plans.

I didn’t see where your PD charger model is listed, so not sure if what I did will help you. I have a PD 9260C, for lead-acid or AGM batteries. I ordered my Oliver with a basic 340W solar package, and two standard lead-acid batteries (no longer an option). I sold the batteries on Facebook Marketplace as soon as I got home, and I already had two BattleBorn 100A batteries on hand. They slipped right in. I intended to swap out the standard charger for a lithium model. I researched on the PD site, and found that they offer a remote pendant that plugs into the 9260C, and converts it to lithium. It was less than $20, so I thought I’d try it. Here I am camping in my Oliver 4 1/2 years later and everything is still working well. It requires a manual push of a little button to boost the voltage, but I don't need to use it often, so it’s no hassle. I don’t usually have the charger turned on, I let the panels keep the batteries charged (we don’t have an inverter). Every 2-3 weeks I turn on the charger, fully charge the batteries, and then synchronize them to 100% using my Victron BMV 712 Battery Monitor. My lithium conversion consisted of adding the PD pendant, a Victron BMV 712 battery monitor, and a Blue Seas battery cutoff switch. I also disconnected the charge wire from the tow vehicle, which was easy to access under the port side bunk. In addition to a PD lithium charger, I also have a Redarc DC-to-DC converter on my wish list. I’ll probably eventually get them, but I haven’t needed either so far, and we dry camp more often than not. I like to keep it simple.

An interesting video on using Anker Prime portable battery packs to run the SL Mini. Naturally the larger Anker Prime battery provides a little more run time. This is all subject to how one intends to use the mini. Nonetheless kinda cool data.

Concur, 100%, brother!

After our SL mini shake down trip out west I have decided to purchase a cord reel for the mini to keep the cord neatly buttoned up during travel. As well as a little quicker to deploy and roll up. I also decided to scoop up an extra SL power cord as well. If by some unlikely chance the cord gets cut by a grazing Bison well…you sorta flapping without a spare. This big guy was grazing on the nice green patch of grass next to XPLOR and he actually tugged on our SL cable and fortunately did not chew through it. Smart Bison! I will post up on how the cord reel works out. I highly recommend a back up spare power cord. As we all know things happen. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WYCR42L?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title_0_0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DB21PPSC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Looking forward to testing the Mini during the next camping trip, this is the main reason we purchased it. It's simple to set up, use, and transport. Started service @ $50 per month for 50 GB of "Roam" service that can be paused whenever not in use. Used ideas from the following video David posted earlier to be able to use the Mini with an Anker power bank for emergency use during a power outage (we have poor cell internet service at home unless used with home WiFi) or if we have a vehicle breakdown in the boonies when without cell service. Had an old Pelican case we used to transport a laptop with. The Starlink Mini, power cable, Mini power convertor, Anker 200W power Bank, 6' power cable for the Mini, and Anker 100W charger all fit easily in the Pelican case.

Cool, thank you! Btw, if you are a Zoom presenter, which is the vehicle of my parttime semi-retirement job, you are pushing more data up vs. down, and upload latency is an issue in all Sat connections. On all technology platforms, download speeds are 5-10x upload speeds, np for streaming movies, or if you must the Presidential Debate (oh 'twas so painful). 🤣 One part of me wants to be able to do my work on the road, so to travel more often. The other side says screw that and it's a GREAT day boondocking when in a deep canyon we're not connected!

Just learned from SL via email below, that the unlimited plan has gone up from $150 to $165 per month. The good thing is we can still pause this service plan when not using it. So far on this trip we have been very happy with our SL mini. Thank you for being a Starlink customer. We are making changes to your service plan and price in order to deliver an improved Starlink experience. Effective immediately, you will have access to the following features with Starlink Roam: In-Motion Use International Travel Coastal Coverage To support these enhancements and our ongoing network improvements, your monthly service price for Starlink Roam will be $165. The updated monthly price and new Terms of Service will go into effect starting 10/10/2024.

I picked up this hard case from HF awhile back and decided it was now going to be storage for the Mini while we are wheels up in the bed of the beast. If nothing else it keeps it all organized.

My Stiker protective case arrived this morning and I have to say I am impressed with the high quality, fit and finish. Striker crafts a nice product. I think this will serve us well. Decisions on were to mount and deploy the mini will likely depend on our base camp location. I really like how compact this dish is. I am considering 4 of the Seasucker marine grade mounts. But may just roll with the flag pole mount. 🇺🇸 https://www.strikerfab.com/ The case allows use of both the standard mount and the flagpole mount. You just swap out the mount below.

For those of you who've never seen the inside of a first gen Elite, here's a photo of the infamous "stripper pole." It's quite helpful as a handhold if you're the person sleeping next to the hull, climbing over your sleeping spouse, to get to the lav in the middle of the night. We had many jokes about it, back in the day. (Apologies for the thread drift, @Ronbrink)

The material on top of the wheel well is fiberglass reinforced with the honeycomb material that Oliver typically uses. The honeycomb material is saturated with resin. The white plastic material is the typical Starboard marine material that Oliver uses everywhere for mounting purposes. The white material that I use is vinyl trim board material available at Lowe’s or Home Depot. I believe that Oliver, at least everything that I have seen, is glued (epoxied) in place. All of the mounting boards that I have installed are epoxied in place. I originally used plywood to mount the solar equipment to but later changed to the vinyl boards. I personally wouldn’t use plywood or other wood for mounting in the Oliver. Keep in mind that any condensation that forms in the walls (and it does in the winter) will run down into the basement area and eventually either will evaporate or run out of the scuppers underneath. You can see the honeycomb material in the upper part of the picture. My solar installation probably looks different than other 2017 or earlier models. During the 2017 model year Oliver was in the process of changing the solar equipment from Blue Sky to Zamp. I ordered my trailer without any solar equipment and added it later. Scubarx (Steve) spec’d out the previously used Blue Sky equipment which I ordered and we installed/wired it all in his driveway. I wanted the Blue Sky equipment because the controller is fully programmable whereas the Zamp controller is not, and the Blue Sky controller is MPPT vs RMS technology of the Zamp system. I then took the trailer to the Oliver factory and they installed the panels. I later remounted the controller, master switch, and circuit breaker on the vinyl board. The entire system has worked absolutely flawlessly for seven years.