Leaderboard

There is a simpler fix. One could just back out the mounting screw and thread on the ‘wing’ taken off a new box and thus, no rewiring of the fixture! As you duly noted, these plastic boxes are cheap; they are also easy to install, but care should be taken to not over tighten the mounting screws which can result in the breakage observed.

I also have the 1/2” model, plenty of torque for both the Oliver and TV needs. And yes, used on many occasions roadside and for general maintenance. I also carry respective torque limiting extension bars and impact flip sockets, as well as a regular torque wrench and speed collar impact extension. Smaller bag with accessories and DeWalt stowed in the larger Duluth bag. A battery charger is carried separately in like manner. Note the quick reference ZipLok bag with specs for the Oliver.

Based on the breakaway switch working okay, and the F-350 working with the Airstream, I'd take a close look at the Oliver's 7-pin plug. It could have a loose connection within the molded rubber plug. It could be a hard thing to test, but your best bet would be a continuity test between the plugs female pins and the other end where it terminates... while twisting and pulling it to be sure the circuit break is not intermittent. You might just replace it if there is any doubt. My 7-pin cord terminates in a electric 4" x 4" junction box under the sink, could be loose or shorted in there too. I didn't read the entire post, so apologies if you have already done this. Good luck, Geoff

Oliver was quick to reimburse any warranty repairs at a local RV repair shop. I’m assuming that would continue if the dealers are going away. We had a couple of warranty things repaired locally years ago and Oliver sent us a check to cover the repairs. I’m always looking for an excuse to go to Tennessee, one of our favorite places to camp and visit. Mike

Good thought, If just the tab is missing you're done in 2 minutes!

This item is on my Christmas list! It costs the most meaning it's likely the best, smaller size, max power! 🤣

Hey Ray, I had an issue with my brakes intermittently disconnecting. There is a set of brake wires that go through the rear axle that had worn to the point where bare wire was contacting the metal axle. Several other owners have had the same issue. The wires were pulled out and replaced and are now zip tied to the outside of the axle. Problem solved. It’s a bit unusual that your trailer is not high mileage for this to be the cause but it is worth checking. I’ll see if I can dig up some of the old posts on this issue. Mike

Good write up John, and that is your story and your STICKING TO IT! Bada bum!! 🥁 Pun intended! 😄

Well it's been a year since we walked into the Oliver showroom dreaming about hitting the road. It was a big step for us since we have never owned an RV and we really did not have any idea if we would even like hauling a travel trailer across the country. Nevertheless, we bought our Ollie I in July 2024 right off the showroom floor. Within a couple of months we had both retired, watched a hundred videos, and were ready to launch. Our first 3 outings were to a corp of engineers campground near our home in Nashville. Since those shakedown trips we have put 12,000 miles on the Ollie, spent over 70 nights in it, visited 17 states, attended 2 Oliver rallies, and visited 11 national parks. We weathered 100 degree heat waves, teens in Arizona, dust storms in west Texas, and hail storms in South Dakota. We have fielded questions from dozens of folks curious about our little Ollie, and their comment is nearly always the same - "That thing is cute." Thanks to all who have answered questions for us during our first year, and it has been great meeting you all at the rallies. And thanks to the staff at the mother ship who have been so responsive in answering questions and helping get the bugs out over the last year. The folks at Oliver are the best in the business. Bob and Barb P.S. If you would like to see some of our photos from the first year feel free to request to join our instagram. (It is a private account but we would love to add you.) campbells_olive2roam

Or the Ford issue that @Steph and Dud B cited. First thing to try is to test for voltage at the Ford F350 TV 7-blade connecter. Jump the BLUE and WHITE wires with a test light or meter while a friend applies the brake pedal then releases, on and off. @BoondockingAirstream you don't need another trailer. If it shows voltage, then test for amperage through the blue when connected. I believe @Geronimo John wrote that brakes at each wheel should draw 2-4A, so at the main harness it should show 4x this number when all 4 brakes are working. If you have 12VDC at the hitch and no amperage draw downstream to the trailer, then you have an open circuit along the path to the wheels. No brakes at all likely means your issue is not wiring at individual wheels or in the axles. It would be between the TT 7-blade connector and where it's connected to the first wheel in line.

It would be helpful if the company would address the issue and give guidance on how owners in Texas should handle warranty/repair concerns when we purchased from a local Texas dealer that now appears to have vanished.

Since your brakes work when you pulled your disconnect I'm guessing it's likely a simple connection issue on the blue wire or ground. Less likely the ground wire if your running lights/turn signals and brake lights are working.

Pilgrimage to the Mothership! 🤣

Exactly. I had no interest in rewiring. Still have the box with other items in the event one needs to be replaced.

Snackchaser: I removed the panel under the sink yesterday, and nothing like you describe. What year is your Oliver? What are you towing with? My Oliver is a 2019. My tow vehicle is a 2016 F350 Diesel 4x4. Does anyone reading this in the Las Vegas, Nevada area? If I can plug my F350 into your Oliver and everything works... it is the Oliver. If nothing changes it is the Tow Vehicle.

Another pending upgrade to the Savana, installation of this 240W solar panel array. My former TV had a 200W setup, which was sufficient to keep my 100AH LFP portable power station charged while running the Dometic 75 DZ cooler; I have since added an ECOFLOW DELTA 2 to my portable arsenal. These Renogy ShadowFlux panels claim to have improved efficiency in partial shade.

You definitely need the brakes working. You're not legal without them. I have read somewhere about some trucks having a problem with some trailers. Found this online: "Ford vehicles, particularly certain F-150 and Super Duty models, have experienced issues with their factory-installed trailer brake controllers. These problems can range from the trailer brakes not engaging at all, to intermittent connection problems, or even the trailer brakes applying unexpectedly and forcefully. A common cause is a software glitch within the integrated trailer brake control module, which can prevent the controller from correctly detecting a trailer or properly applying the brakes. " See if you can borrow someone else's truck to see if the problem persists. Another likely failure point is the 7 way plug on the trailer. Those contacts can become spread out and/or corroded. Look inside the plug and inspect the brake contacts with a flashlight. If they're corroded, a temporary fix can be using a thin file, emory board, or screwdriver blade to scrape the contacts clean. If they seem spread out, use a small screw driver or hook to bend them back inward a bit. These would be temporary fixes. If your plug is shot, it's easy to replace. Disconnect the trailer batteries before you start because the 12v Power lead is hot and then follow this wiring diagram to install a new plug.

Oliver forgot to put the backer on ours. It was very loose. They sent me a new box under warranty, and I removed the plate and installed on the existing outlet.

@Ronbrink is spot on. Here a pic of my outlet.

(Mike & Carol asked me to check this Thread out. I had already read this. I went back to my original post to add: " I lifted each side of the trailer, spun the wheels, pulled the 'brakeaway switch' out. The spinning wheels stopped immediately and I could not physically turn any. Plugged it back and they spun freely. Did both sides. Brakes probably have very little wear... Even the bearings were smooth and quiet. This is not something I would wish upon any Oliver owner. The Brake Wiring changes are so frequent with these electrical wiring... there seem to be changing the braking wiring all of the time. ???? ) Purchased the 2019 Oliver Elite II February 2022 from Original Owner. It was clean and had not been used very much. Much like on the Oliver lot when new. We got the plates, insurance paper work filed and paid and connected the Oliver to the 2016 F350 4x4 Diesel. We also have a 2019 27FBQ Airstream International. The Oliver was for a Boondocking alternative travel trailer. NO BRAKES. Plug into F350, pull away and 'Brakes Disconnected'. The Brake System of the F350 works perfectly with the 2019 Airstream. Not on the Oliver, apparently. I was told by Oliver it is possible the 2016 F350 may not be compatible. I am going to try one of our under the dash units, used on two other Airstreams we owned over the last 19 years. The heavy F350 handles the Oliver easily, but having Trailer Brakes... is necessary. Also to sell, as well. I removed the Truma Hot water system. It was not operational, as well. I was notified about a Recall in the US MAIL,,, but since I removed the totally mutilated Truma... "sorry no can help". It had the uncrimped propane heating unit that is on the recall.. Previous owner gave me Service Tickets trying to have it fixed. Did not work then either, Reading other posts about Trailer Brakes Not Working... our wiring looks nothing like any of those, with worn wires. No information in the Oliver Service Guide. Oliver is careful not to get into giving advice and then have things go wrong, which I understand. We were also told, possibly, our 2016 F350 trailer electronics, may be too OLD for the Oliver. It works perfectly with our 2019 Airstream. Hmmm. It appears that the wiring on Olivers change often. Ours is different under the table and beds than other photographs seen on the Forum. I photographed the possible areas. Did check all of the wiring into the Buss Bar. All snug and look good. Everything else works that is electrical. Any suggestions? First photo... front (towards rest room) dining table seat. Second photo... rear (towards street side bed) dining table seat.

Mike & Carol... thanks for the posts. I will look for the Brake Disconnect Thread and try to move my information over to the Brake Disconnect Thread. I tried to go back and add the following... but could not until it was reviewed. "I jacked each side up, spun the wheels and pulled the Break Away Switch and both sides LOCKED UP IMMEDIATELY and immovable. Plugged the BAS back in and they spun perfectly." I did try Oliver Inc. for some advice, but because of them having some issues if they gave me advice and something went wrong... they had to withhold any assistance. I understand. This seems to be a change as I believe Oliver Inc. has helped with some suggestions on the Forum. The first owner obviously had this issue before me. I have a mechanical brain and electricity is not my choice of repairs. I could not find my Ohms meter for working on antique Wurlitzer Jukeboxes years ago and could not find it... in the garage. With a F350 Diesel 4x4 braking is still important, but this heavy tow vehicle manages. I want it to operate properly. No schematics. Nothing in the service manual to help. It seems like everything electronic changes often... and if the problem is not found, while parking in the lot, when purchased... brakes are often missed from what I have read and once hundreds of miles away... might have noticed. But thought it was a simple issue...??

Here’s a thread addressing this issue with pictures. If this is your problem it’s pretty straightforward to fix. Good luck. Mike Brake Disconnect Thread

Yes you need a controller for the 2 external panels as the ZAMP connector on the side of the trailer goes through a fuse then onto the batteries. Solar Suitcase Tips and Build Inside this article I discuss how the zamp connector is reverse polarity from other SAE connectors so be certain you wire your adapters correctly. You can buy the adapters on Amazon. Zamp Cable - Zamp Cable from Amazon Craig

@dewdev that is the 1AMP fuse for the propane/leak detector in our case located under the dinette.

There should be a wing on that mounting screw, looks like it broke off.