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Probably most members and readers of the Forum are aware of the "brewing" winter storm that is forecast to hit the southern states this weekend. But, for those that are not - it is forecast to start Friday over in the mid to northern Texas area and move through Oklahoma and Arkansas. Then on Saturday morning it moves over Tennessee, the northern part of South Carolina, and North Carolina. Continuing through Saturday and well into Sunday the storm then moves slightly north before exiting off the coast in the mid Atlantic region. While totals of snow are as high as 18 inches, it is the ice that will cause many problems - downed power lines and roads that are very difficult to clear. For those not familiar with the southern States - many simply do not have the equipment to deal with either the ice nor the amount of snow that is forecast. If anyone and or their Ollie is in this area of the country, NOW is the time to prepare for this storm. Be careful and best of luck to everyone in dealing with all that is to come from a winter wonderland. Bill p.s. HERE is one forecaster's take on the storm

Yep - Just heard from a friend in State College, PA that they are expecting 11 to 12 inches. But -11 to 12 inches is much different in PA as compared to VA, TN, SC, NC who (for the most part) do not have the equipment, personnel or infrastructure to deal with these things. Be careful out there. Bill

Good luck to all in the path of this storm from your friends up north.

Excellent warning Bill. We are used to this sort of thing in our neck of the woods but people in that area certainly are not. Saw the pattern for the storm late last night thought oh boy buckle up down there, looks like a doozy.

Here's the old & new style battery tray:

Doesn't @jd1923's post from Oct. 2024 solve two possible problems: preventing (or slowing down) theft and locking the tray in position?

No need to discuss tires further. I just wanted to put together an easy-to-read chart of all the common tires I see that we're using on our Elite II TTs as of January 2026. Let me know if I left out any common tire. Hope it helps get new owners going quickly without too much "trudging" through old forum threads. 🤷‍♂️ * Always follow the inflation guidelines of your brand and model of tire. PDF file attached. Tire Inflation Chart for Oliver Elite II Travel Trailers Updated: 20 January 2026 Michelin Agilis CrossClimate (LT225/75R16) (16" rims) Tire Size 35 psi 40 psi 45 psi 50 psi 55 psi 60 psi 65 psi 70 psi 75 psi 80 psi LT225/75R16 - 1650 lbs 1790 lbs 1940 lbs 2060 lbs 2190 lbs 2335 lbs 2440 lbs 2560 lbs 2680 lbs Cooper Discoverer HT3 (LT225/75R16) (16" rims) Tire Size 35 psi 40 psi 45 psi 50 psi 55 psi 60 psi 65 psi 70 psi 75 psi 80 psi LT225/75R16 1500 lbs 1650 lbs 1790 lbs 1940 lbs 2060 lbs 2190 lbs 2335 lbs 2440 lbs 2560 lbs 2680 lbs Goodyear Endurance ST225/75R15 (15" rims) Tire Size 35 psi 40 psi 45 psi 50 psi 55 psi 60 psi 65 psi 70 psi 75 psi 80 psi ST225/75R15 1760 lbs 1880 lbs 2020 lbs 2150 lbs 2270 lbs 2380 lbs 2540 lbs 2620 lbs 2720 lbs 2830 lbs Here are some inflation and load examples for Elite II travel trailers (four tires): @ 45 psi: 1,790 lbs x 4 tires = 7,160 lbs total weight (LT tires) 2,020 lbs x 4 tires = 8,080 lbs total weight (ST tires) @ 50 psi: 1,940 lbs x 4 tires = 7,760 lbs total weight (LT tires) 2,150 lbs x 4 tires = 8,600 lbs total weight (ST tires) @ 55 psi: 2,060 lbs x 4 tires = 8,240 lbs total weight (LT tires) 2,270 lbs x 4 tires = 9,080 lbs total weight (ST tires) Tires Inflation Chart.pdf

My battery tray keeper is not as elegant as Horace's or as secure as jd1923's, but it keeps my battery tray in place and it’s easy to remove and replace. Mossey

@Chris Scarff I will add that if you have your finances in order, retirement will be the best job you ever had! Mossey

GJ - Remember that the later model Olivers have two of those spring loaded catches on the tray. This was done to lessen the chance of failure at that point. Unfortunately, I do not remember exactly when Oliver made this change. As far as Horace's ideas - why not simply drill a hole for the bolt a bit closer to the sliding portion of the tray, use a wing nut on the that bolt and do away with the angle piece of metal since the bolt head will be enough to stop the tray from sliding out? Bill

Retirement was a great decision for us. If the finances are right and you want to get your Oliver on the road maybe there will be less “Erggg” in your decision making! Mike

Owners: Mike and Carol’s “Battery Box Separation” thread well addresses the battery box structural securement to the frame and hull. My intent of this post is to re-look at the battery tay and straps and their securement. Despite our OEM straps being VERY tight, twice I found one of them had gone slack and come loose from the tray hook hole. Not good. I am starting this separate thread to focus on how to ensure that our OEM tray and batteries “stay put”. So basically, I would like to learn more about how the tray is mounted and then how to super contain our batteries in the tray. I would very much appreciate your sharing your thoughts on how the battery box embed plate and straps do their job. Some questions follow: · How is the battery box embed plate attached to the structural member below? · What’s you guess as to the dimensions of the embed plate? · Are all battery sliding tray fasteners buck-stopped by the embed plate? · I assume that the embed plate is aluminum. Can it be tapped for additional hold-down bolts. If yes, what bolt length will work best? · Can you share your DIY solution? GJ PS: As far as the tray slide coming open, I like Horace's (Hull 93 Maverick) Dec 17, 2020 idea. A couple of these would increase security and would prevent movement should the slide fail. My upgrades to his idea would be to use a Riv-Nut in place of the nut and washer. Maybe also pop rivet the aluminum angle to the tray sheet metal. Combined, less parts to get lost when doing battery checks and service. Thanks GJ

Art and his new I235?

Zoom in on second pic, you may recognize some friends!

I just confirmed my dates and site for October rally. I'll be getting in early, thankfully. 19 - 26 October, Site G33. This will be a critical time for me to decide whether I will be retiring this year or not. If you see me sitting on the dock early mornings, as usual, you'll know what I'm thinking about. Erggg.

I don’t use antifreeze, only compressed air (OTT does not recommend this). With antifreeze, yes use it in your plumbing since that will empty sooner or later into your gray tank. But do not pump antifreeze into your Fresh Tank! The tank is very slow to empty and difficult to rinse clean. Just blow compressed air to empty the fill line and drain the tank. Two seconds of air while you're waiting 30 min on the tank. No worries next season, just fill 'er up and go! 😎

Then fill your freshwater tank with clean water and either pump it into the gray tank and then dump or just drain it out onto the ground. That will wash out what small amount of AF that ended up in the fresh water tank. If you want to kill two birds with one stone, add some bleach to the first flush, let it sit for a few hours and then empty the fresh tank. That will sanitize it as well. I’d then flush it again.

Just flushing the city lines doesn't get rid of the anti-freeze pumped into the fresh water tank when the freshwater line was winterized. This is what I am interested in flushing, more so than the city lines.

You can effortlessly take the entire rear jack out in 10 minutes by removing only two bolts. I’ve done both of mine several times each. Then you can take the jack to the shop and work on any part of it. If anyone at the rally is interested, I will be happy to show you how it’s done.