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A day to remember and a day to not forget.

I Just recently had CGI do the annual touchup on my camper and they told me about a new service they are offering. It is a durable protective gloss film that they apply to the front of the camper. Might be a nice thing to have if you like getting off the beaten path (gravel roads, ALCAN Hwy, etc.), it would help protect the gelcoat from chips and make it easier to keep clean as well. Lasts 5-7 years or more typically and is generally easy to remove/replace. Not cheap but makes life easier and protects your investment. Short video link: IMG_8147.MOV

The Boerne Community Concert Band performed a concert in the town square yesterday evening. All patriotic songs, marches and songs of each branch of service. Also a nice rendition of Taps for our fallen heroes. It was a good turnout, lots of camping chairs and good weather. Small town USA. Happy Memorial Day! Mike

Lamar, sad to hear of your troubles! I have no idea how those stoves are wired, but they should be GFIC protected (Ground fault interrupter circuit). Those can trip for numbers of reasons. It could have its own GFIC receptacle under the cabinet somewhere, or it could be fed from an another GFIC receptacle. I'd check all the AC receptacles to see if they are GFIC and if they are tripped. Don't forget the one above the kitchen counter and the outdoor plug. If you find one tripped that won't reset, let us know for further investigation. Also check the AC wiring diagram in your manual, it should show whether the stove circuit is GFIC protected, and give clues where to look. The stove wouldn't be related to the 12v outlets. If you're talking about the USB outlets, they might have a tiny pushbutton switch on the front of them. The cigarette lighter type of 12v outlets are notorious for having the wire terminal pop off the back, but unlikely for that to happen to both of them. If the fuse is okay, then I'd take a close look at whatever you're testing them with. Good luck and let us know what you find. Geoff

Good idea! You could, but isolate it from the TV so you don't end up with a back-feed condition. Just use a DPDT switch wired to break the TV circuit while energizing the back-up lights from the trailer battery, and vice-versa. Geoff

Nope, doesn’t happen. The truck was absolutely coated with goo several times and the Ollie nose, but the windows literally get nothing, not even any dirt to speak of. The front edge of the outdoor power socket and edge of the Truma door get it though. The windows have been trouble and maintenance free in over 3k miles. Pro tip to make them even more maintenance free is to SiO2 them. Water beads and runs off beautifully too, I use Griots Garage SiO2 window treatment. It’s not as serious as a full body coat, less concentrated, but it’ll last 3-6 months. Hey even the Secret Service uses it on the Beast.

This modification was a break-out from an old and long thread that Mossemi started: “Only one switch to operate streetwise and curbside lights . . .” It concerned a common complaint that the curb side porch lights can’t always be used because the street side lights also come on and they can annoy the neighbors. Mossey posted a new photo of the main switch panel wiring yesterday, and it showed a ground wire labeled “porch light”.” I hadn’t noticed it before, so I tried my circuit signal probe again and finally found where the circuit crosses over to feed the street side porch lights. It was in a sheathed wire bundle behind the attic side board, deep along the right bottom corner. It can’t be reached through the attic without disturbing the insulation, but it can be reached through the right rear speaker hole. The duct tape dust cover will have to cut open then re-taped afterwards. The wire bundle has enough slack to splice it though the speaker hole. I pulled the positive “red” wire out of the “split-sheath” wrap and verified it was the right one with a clamp-on amp meter. It read something like 0.9 amps with the lights on. I cut the wire, capped the end coming from the old switch, and spliced a new blue wire to the lights end. A Wago connector was easier than trying to crimp a butt splice in the tight space. The new wire was sheathed for extra protection and routed to the main switch panel. It was tie-wrapped to an existing wire bundle on the forward edge of the attic ceiling. With the left attic side board also removed (they are held by two small lag bolts), the wire can be passed into the left side upper cabinet. A short stiff wire will help fish it through. The upper cabinets have thin laminate floors fastened with a few Phillips screws. Remove them to expose a channel that the new wire can lay in all the way to the main switch panel. I also removed the microwave outlet for more room to feed the wire into the switch panel area; just snap off the cover plate, loosen the two mounting screws slightly so the wings fold in, and it will come right out. I had a round rocker switch in my stash, and they are also available from Amazon. I installed it in the blanked hole for the “Street Awning” switch, and blacked out the word Awning with a felt marker. The switch just says “Street” now, for the street porch light. Very unprofessional, but I hope someone will had a better solution. If you don’t have a blanked spare switch hole, then a switch can be mounted on the other side of the switch panel, on the inside cabinet wall. The switch was wired with the new blue wire going to the middle terminal, the red hot +12Vdc to the bottom, and the yellow ground to the top (needed for the blue neon indicator.) The other ends of the hot and ground wires went to existing six-port push-in terminals that feed other switches. There were some unused ports. This is easier than it sounds, but it’s good to have a clamp-on amp meter and/or circuit tracer to help find the street porch light wire. I included a photo and list of the tools I used. The inexpensive brands work well enough, and I’d recommend owning them for other electrical projects, troubleshooting and repair work: Digital clamp-on ac/dc amp meter, also a multimeter, can check your shunts and loads too! Circuit tracer for finding wires, shorts, and breaks Metal fish tape, I cut short pieces off the end for these kind of jobs Cable tie gun, you will wonder how you ever got by without one Auto wire stripper, just makes it easier Thomas and Betts crimpers, 50 years old and still my favorite go-to Inspection mirror Fluke multimeter, when accuracy counts Cheers, Geoff

The pump setup seems a little overkill. Why do you need a macerator for pumping grey water? A simple 12 volt water pump can be had for under $50. As far a lighting goes I would look at GOVEE. They have 12 volt solutions and are much less expensive. Don’t get me wrong, I love HUE lights. I have them throughout my home but they aren’t really made for a mobile solution in my opinion. My .02 John

Generally speaking -- posts like this amaze me. We have a great base of knowledge and know-how here on the forum. Thank you to @Snackchaser and all of our great forum members present and past.

I use one of these to make quick work of finding wires- Tone generator and wand.

I wonder if it would be easy to add a switch to activate the white backup lights from inside the cabin?

We took possession of our new 2026 Legacy I in about April. Spent most of the time learning the systems and getting ready for our trip to Utah where we plan to do mostly Boondocking. We did one trial run overnight close to home to get the feel for things but we were tied into shore power. We were planning on a second unhooked but storms rolled and we had to leave. Tonight is night one on the 2 week long trip and we are boondocking. The True Induction Stove top will not turn on. It did turn on when we were hooked to shore power when we did the trial run. I am using a lodge frying pan, making sure we have the right material on the stove top. But there are no lights coming on the cooktop. I checked the breaker and it appears ok (knowing they can go bad and you can’t tell until you replace them). The inverter seems to be working as the microwave/convection oven works. The batteries appear to be above 90%. It’s gonna be a long 2 weeks without a stovetop. I don’t know if this is related but two 12 v receptacles on the street side do not appear to be working either. I’ve checked fuses but they seem to be fine. Any insight would be appreciated. I’ll also put a ticket in, but I’m sure Oliver is closed until at least Tuesday because of Memorial Day. Lamar Hull #1687 Also, for Veterans, their families, and those who lost someone they cared for in the military…I trust this Memorial Day, Remembrance Day, or Decoration Day will be meaningful to you.

Hank White has used a portable pump as you’re describing, so it does work. Another option is to plumb your pee bottle to the black tank. Several owners have done this. An additional step would be to swap the bathroom sink drain from the gray tank to the black. Just connect the sink drain to the vent pipe and it will go to the black tank. This gives you 15 gallons of pee and sink water, and the soapy water dilutes the urine and prevents crystallization. I use a macerator pump on the sewer drain at home to pump black and gray water to my septic tank 50 feet from my driveway. Works great!

It is a little wimpy, but I use the outdoor shower often when boondocking. Chris showers in the wet bath, but when the weather is good enough, I prefer being outside, not getting the bathroom wet and not adding to the gray water! All I needed was a holder. I had the one pictured but now I use a suction cup version on the window. I like the standby function built into the shower head. I dislike the fact that the trunk, the rear basement door, has to be open to extend to hose and operate the faucets! So I lay a wash cloth and bottle of body wash on it. I don't use it for much else except for cleaning shoes on occasion. I have good hose attachments for when we have campsite water. If you get too crazy, your FWT will empty quickly! I'm interested in seeing what you come up with as your work matures! 😎

Thank you for your reply. I was able to screw the female adapter onto the T connection on the water heater and had enough pex on the other side to connect it. So far it is working. Luckily Ace Hardware had everything I needed. I still can’t figure out the faucet in the kitchen area. It is weird both things going wrong on this trip especially since I had it serviced like two months ago. But I know things happen.

We do not know yet... - What inverter/battery setup is installed in this LEI? - Will it still work on Shore Power? (if so, then not a CGFI issue) - Error codes? If so, then the usual Xantrex settings issue, but @Lamar made no mention of a failed startup, just no power. - Is the induction cooktop wired to the inverter circuit? To be or not to be!

Hey I just got it and already did a Tennessee trip this year! 😅 Anyhow still working, close to retirement so one big trip is all that can be managed

What service was done?

Snack Chaser, thanks for the response. I found the buttons on the USB outlets. Didn’t know they were there and they all work. Good to know. All of the outlets that I can find work. There is one GFCI that I found near the floor in the forward dinette that was tripped. But after resetting it the induction stove still is not working. The one outlet outside is not GFCI. I’m going to hook into shore power again to see if by doing that the stove will turn on. I have both a generator and a 30 amp connector nearby for this morning yet. Lamar

I remember. Our little community is festooned with flags lining the streets. Let us never forget.

@jd1923 I would start hunting for the streetside light power wire at the main switch panel. I also think that is the easiest spot to tap the power wire for the new light you want to install, running a new wire, front to back, in the trough of the upper cabinets might be the easiest part of the job. Mossey

So, are you going to the Oliver Rally in October? And are you going to open your Ollie for tours? ;-)

I was thinking by the front edge of these windows will collect bugs. Let us know next time you have a windshield full of bugs! 🤣