Mainiac

I do like the 7' width. I can see down both sides with standard mirrors. None of those extend-a-mirror thingies that vibrated going down the road. Also made it easier, with the wireless cam to help, back down that narrow mountain road. But the GPS said it was open, not dirt, and not washed out. I like the idea of a bigger basement, and if present stuff were rearranged, I think it might be relatively easy to do...

A pressure regulator is almost a needed item. Brass ones seem to be much better than the plastic ones, and are not much more in cost. We do carry a pressure gauge. That is hooked up to a wye and we can tell the pressure before hooking to the Oliver. We have found a State Park near St. Augustine with pressure a little over 80 psi, though most are lucky to get to 40. If a couple near you was to shut their water off at the same time, (which could happen near supper time), that 80 psi could spike over 100 psi and that's where things start to leak.

According to my 2017 wiring diagram, for an Elite II, there are indeed 3 each 30 amp slow blow fuse holders, in that compartment. One to each rear stabilizer (my diagram calls them jacks). The 3rd one shows going to the front jack. I would pull that 'unknown' and see if the front jack still works. If it doesn't a drop of white paint might be in order. Wonder if the light has it's own fuse? I know they have modified the wiring harness a few times since ours was built, and the last one I don't believe has been published yet. I'll have to wander down today and see if I have an "extra" fuse holder on front...

The fuse holders are now together? Not by each jack? If that is the case the red and green (port and starboard) marks make a lot of sense.

Those pesky Asian beetles...the ones that look like Lady Bugs! Last Fall, we were getting ready to winterize, as we had an early winter event coming in. It was warm, sunny, and a beautiful day. I gathered antifreeze and other supplies. As I came around the stern of the trailer, in the warm sun, it must have been covered with at least 500 of those little pests. We were careful coming in and out as we changed anti freeze bottles, and pumped lines, and so forth. We didn't want those things in there. We probably only had to remove 3 or 4. This Spring "wake-up", I only found 2 "hulls". That tells me the Oliver is essentially tight, and pest free and resistant. We have had SOBs (some other brand) in the past and they used to get invaded. Nice not to have that cleanup...

Something like this would make sense. Or maybe an outside display, or at least one visible outside. We have a portable EMS and like that we can tell immediately if there is a problem, before even plugging in. We don't have to go inside to see why or what might be the problem. I do have to lock it down, so it doesn't get "borrowed".

Ours stores in a lower field, in sight of the house, totally uncovered. It sits next to an out building that has 20amp power and water. However we have never plugged it in there since bringing it home in 2017. The solar panels keep the batteries topped off and ready to go. The water and power are great to use a pressure washer which would get barnacles off the boat and mud and salt off the Oliver. I certainly would not cover with a tarp. I have seen units where a dirty cover, buffering in the wind, have worn through the surface of an RV and scuffed the paint in many places. I have dropped in, in the winter, turned on the heat and watched tv or read a book. Plenty of power. We do use a Maquires Wash and Wax at the end and start of the season. Keeps the surface shiny and slippery. Ice and show seems to slide right off. I have had 1/2" inch of ice and some snow and the solar appears to keep on charging. Probably would do more damage trying to remove winter than just leave it. If we would get a couple of feet without a warming day, I might go down and clean some off. Probably severe heat, sun, and blowing dust/sand might make us reconsider an enclosure...

So, on an electric fridge, solar is enough to keep powered? What about extended cloudy days?

Curious what these "window keys" look like and/or do?

I still have 2014 "To Do List" s that need to be looked at... Just because I said I would get to it, doesn't mean she has to remind me every six months...

One major advantage of the Elite II is the physical size of the bed. I think in the Elite you would have to sleep sideways, which means crawling over it you are in the back. Front to back is too short for most. Look at the measurements on the floor layout diagrams. The wireless cam is, to us a major plus. With it, you know when it is safe to pull back in when passing a slower moving fifth wheel or tractor. Also the cam makes backing into a campsite a lot easier. We have also used it to back down a mountain road that had been washed out. The nice thing is you have 2 years to practice. See you around The campfire...

This is what I have been looking for. Knew I had put those do-hickie "thingies" in the camper spare parts can for something. What surprises me is that I am caught up to a 2018 "To Do List".

Actually the outer bottom hull might not be as tight as we might like to think. There are a few strategically drilled holes to let any "extra" water escape. You can spot them with the little SS caps. I was surprised to see a couple, but they are designed and installed to avoid forcing air into the cabin while underway. The return air vent opens directly into the inter hull space. It may not get much air through there, but some. I have wondered if they were closeable, would it be easier to heat the whole unit and keep tanks warmer?

We are talking the bath exhaust fan, and the heating/cooling of the bathroom space. The Maxfan is another issue, with it's own set of circumstances. We primarily put the extra vent in to increase the airflow efficiency of the heating system to the bathroom. With the shower going, vent closed and the window open that is the way to go. Opening that window for a little ways I can't imagine would comprise anyone's privacy.

Thought I would see how the flame looked with the furnace running and the exhaust vent on. Without any windows open it drew the flame towards the vent. The best part the fan didn't appear to be struggling for air.

I have read some of the comments, and was surprised that I have one of the "terrible 200's". I don't feel that way about our unit at al!. We read the forums before ordering and decided that we wanted the Ez-Flex system which was optional. It is now standard. We added a 4" marine hatch to our propane cover, so we didn't have to take the cover off. They now put in a 6" hatch as standard. Our porch light has occasional black streaks. They changed the product supplied to them and newer units have no problems with them. Our unit had a drawer problem from too short a screw supplied by the drawer maker. The factory corrected it and those affected. All the while as they geared up production to almost double the assembly, they cared about the existing customer. if I can't pull a switch and ascertain it is bad, or put a panel back up, over some wires that vibrated loose, what will I ever do when time to figure how to dump? Or need to sanitize the fresh water tank, or winterize for a sudden storm coming? Or bring more fresh water through the outside port? We took these things as learning experiences as we learned about our unit and grew with them. As we encountered, an opportunity, and discussed it with the Oliver staff, we think we learned from the experience, and maybe more important, so did they. The listened to us...

We bought the Gazelle from 'Sportsman Guide' with the optional 3 panels. With the screen being tight to keep the "no-see-ums" out, it also keeps the heat in, so be aware on a hot day. On a beautiful calm day you might be tempted to just set it up. Stake it down. A little 'breeze' can turn it into a parachute type thingies that is hard to catch. You can guess how I might know that. Also we now carry some heavier tent stakes for sandy soils, as those little aluminum ones don't hold. This all being said, it is well worth the investment. Easy to set up and take down. Light weight and easy to carry and put in the bag. It fits easily into the back of the truck, if the truck is packed right. The way we set up under the awning might make it awkward to have screening on the awning, especially if we had to tip it for a rain event.

I have always 'draped ' the umbilical cord over the tounge, plug down, to eliminate water intrusion. To my surprise one evening I found the taillights on. Shook the plug and the lights went out. That is when I noticed my plug is not moulded on. So we took some clear exterior silicone adhesive and with our finger smeared it on and into where the cord and plug come together. Smoothed it out and let it cure. As of yet , no more "ghost" lights...

Plug the heater into the receptacle at the pedistal. If it does or doesn't work there, you might just eliminate a lot of steps and frustrations...

Not familiar with how the compost toilet is vented, but if it is a 1 1 /2" pipe, you might well be right. I also think the vent might indirectly help a little with the ac circulation. Thinking a main cabin window could be opened a little, allowing the frosted bathroom window to stay closed. I think the vent location should minimize any fancy gyrations from putting water up there. Hopefully. ..

An inside close-up view.

Just guessing here, but I would think the 5 core ply would have a flatter appearance. Less deflection, and easier to attach hooks and towel racks in the bathroom, hooks in the main cabin, and a door and trim pieces. The core I cut out looked at least like cabinet grade, and hopefully a marine equivalent glue. The Oliver family of companies appears well versed in the use of fiberglass and it's possible limitations...

Just wondering...do you cover the tires on your tow vehicle too??

A 'maintenance' item we have added to our yearly list. Inside cabinet hardware screws. Screws on ALL the upper cabinet patches were loose. One was completely missing. Not in the cabinet. Wonder if I had found it sometime and wondered where it came from? Hinge screws were loose, and some of screws holding the doors to the hinges. We will get a tube of 'Locktight' and give us something to do on a rainy day. Don't forget to change the batteries in smoke/CO2 detectors..It is daylight savings time almost anyway...

My invoice is filed away, but it looks like the one from; 'Point Supplies + Outdoors', sku #77417. Described, funny I thought as: 4" Sea Dog SS Butterfly Vent, center knob. Price was $ 6.99. It is described as 304SS. I was going to put the butterfly one outside, and a standard louvered vent inside. That way any stray shower water would be reflected down and away. What I found was that the holes didn't match up. Luckily I had ordered two of each, because of another project. I picked up 4 each SS machine 6 -32 X 1" machine screws and locknuts at a local hardware. What I didn't have was a 3 1/2" hole saw. What I found was around $ 33.00 for a hole saw and then $18.00 for a mandrel, at the big box lumber and hardware stores. Hmm, for a one time hole did I want to spend over $50? What I found was a whole kit of many many different sizes that I might never use( including mandrel and case) for $18.00 at Harbor Freight ( also had a coupon for 20% off and a free flashlight). It worked extremely well and left a very crisp edge on the back side, and I still have the saw if I need or want to cut another hole. I used a small round file (chain saw) to notch slots for the screws, as they are just outside the 3 1/2" . The wall is actually 7 /16" cored with 5 layer plywood. We did coat the exposed wood with some white oil base paint, that we happened to have, to prevent any possible moisture intrusion.